I removed the service box from my 2000 Powerstroke F350 dually. Now I need to put the flat bed on. I've read that welding to the frame is bad and that's what has happened here. Should I start by removing all the cross pieces that are welded on, and does this 5th wheel bracket need to come off?
How to tackle this flat bed install?
- Thread starter 930dreamer
- Start date
Kaizen
Well-known member
Bolting it to the frame is better then welding. Is that what you mean? If the cross pieces are not in your way or the way of any boxes you might install I’d leave them be. (If they look solid).
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rsanter
Well-known member
Most flat beds I see are clamped on, some are bolted on.
I would see of those are in the way and cut them away if they are.
By cut them away I mean you can remove a chunk of them but don’t need to remove every bit down to the original frame
I would see of those are in the way and cut them away if they are.
By cut them away I mean you can remove a chunk of them but don’t need to remove every bit down to the original frame
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
most beds are bolted on.
The only way I would remove the cross members is if they were in the way.
I have also seen wood 2x4 or 6s on the frame and then bolt the beds down. Our box truck has the box bolted on that way.
The only way I would remove the cross members is if they were in the way.
I have also seen wood 2x4 or 6s on the frame and then bolt the beds down. Our box truck has the box bolted on that way.
Chris_the_wrench
Well-known member
Most of the flatbeds I've dealt with are bolted/clamped on, some even with springs. It needs to be allowed to flex or else that force is transferred directly to your frame. I'd knock those off(unless they are handy for mounting the flatbed) for the most part, leave the bead and the remaining material, then I'd bolt the flatbed down. Use 2-3" longer bolts then needed and put valve springs between the frame and the nuts. The below isn't a flatbed, but an example of what I was trying to describe.
-Chris
-Chris
OP
I need to set up a way to lift the flat bed up to easily raise and lower it onto the frame for fitting too.
bradpac
Well-known member
Most of the flat beds i've seen on one ton trucks have hard wood 2x4s between the frame and bed and either use U bolts under the frame through the bed frame or have brackets coming down from the bed that bolt into existing holes on the bed frame. The only place i have ever seen any welded is at the rear trailer hitch, but some are bolted there too.
ttpete
Well-known member
We always used the hardwood 2X4s and U-bolts to clamp it down. We also installed shear plates on the sides between the frame and bed to keep the bed from moving to the front or back. We weren't allowed to drill the top or bottom of the frame rails, but holes in the sides for the shear plates were OK.
Kaizen
Well-known member
Engine hoist at its furthest extension and some rigging should work. Just drive truck out from under it and set on sawhorses. Search flat bed fabrication on you tube. I saw a three part series a guy did making a bed for an f250
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Kaizen
Well-known member
The 2x runs across between the bed and frame or same way as the frame?
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zkdiesel
Well-known member
Most of the flatbeds I've dealt with are bolted/clamped on, some even with springs. It needs to be allowed to flex or else that force is transferred directly to your frame. I'd knock those off(unless they are handy for mounting the flatbed) for the most part, leave the bead and the remaining material, then I'd bolt the flatbed down. Use 2-3" longer bolts then needed and put valve springs between the frame and the nuts. The below isn't a flatbed, but an example of what I was trying to describe.
-Chris
That’s generally on a long wheel base bed to allow chassis flex, on an 8-9’ like he’s using it is defiantly not required. The fact that’s on a Mack with a camelback suspension explains a lot about that setup....
Chris_the_wrench
Well-known member
Yes, that photo is a bigger rig! But the way a pickup frame can twist when doing any kind of driving where the front and rear wheels aren't following the same plane is quite something, and if that flex is restricted- thats where the weak point will be. I've seen a few pickup flatbeds where a mounting bolt has sheared because of that, but those where trucks drove hard through the mountains of the Pacific Northwest.
Your Mileage May Vary.
What kind of flatbed you putting on btw?
-Chris
OP
Chris_the_wrench
Well-known member
Looks good, are you going to put a gooseneck hitch on(you had a 5th wheel hitch I believe??)
-Chris
OP
Yes I want a 5th wheel hitch, the flat bed has a ball, not sure on the structural condition?
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bradpac
Well-known member
The 2x4s run parallel along the frame
OP
I have no idea who removed the flat bed, I removed the service box.
OP
Back on this today what a mess. The F350 has a dead/low battery and I couldn't get it to start. Time for a real battery charger/starter setup. The forklift was left with the key on (cabinet shop) so that needed to same attention the F350 did. I just left the charger on 2 amp setting and met the lads (retired LEO friends) for beer and pizza.
I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to use the flat bed I have, and was trying to flip it over to inspect the under side. Has anyone use an aluminum flat bed before? I'm guessing its lighter then steel and is more expensive, are there anymore pros/cons?
The saga continues tomorrow.
I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to use the flat bed I have, and was trying to flip it over to inspect the under side. Has anyone use an aluminum flat bed before? I'm guessing its lighter then steel and is more expensive, are there anymore pros/cons?
The saga continues tomorrow.
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rtz
Well-known member
OP
I'll send them a message.
OP
I tipped the flatbed on its side today,at least (3) areas that will require cutting out, the ball area looks like **** too. Still deciding on weather I'm going to use this or not. I'll hit it with the pressure washer in the morning.
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OP
Cutting all the cross members off today, can't get to the welds on most of the big channel pieces. Had to cut out in pieces to get the grinder close enough. I'm thinking a skill saw with a metal blade?
I wish they didn't weld these to the frame.
I guess a plasma cutter is in my future, any recommendations on one?
I wish they didn't weld these to the frame.
I guess a plasma cutter is in my future, any recommendations on one?
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ttpete
Well-known member
You don't have a cutting torch?
OP
No torch either.
ttpete
Well-known member
It's what you really need for this.
OP
Just filled out the paperwork to lease two full size bottles, haven't decided on the rest yet.
ttpete
Well-known member
Try to get 2-stage regulators and a dedicated cutting torch instead of a cutting attachment for a welding torch.
OP