How would a guy make these doors

[ive]

Hi everyone. My wife wants double gates for the side of the house. I’d like to build it if I can handle it. I like to think I’m handy.

This is what she has in mind.


The opening is 8’.

First question is do i build a gate out of plywood and then cover it with the herringbone pattern?

Thanks so much everyone

 

[240sxguy]

Those almost look like a conventional rail/stile type door with an insert that's had decorative router work done. Really sharp looking doors though, good luck with the project!

 

[cvairwerks]

Build the outer frame and dado it for the infill sections.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

Yep, I agree with 240sxguy and cvairwerks, You could do saw cuts or maybe a router with a narrow enough bit, so you can make all those cuts without a saw blade cutting past where you want it to go in the pattern.

 

[marak]

I agree 100% with the others. That is a very nice gate and I saved the picture as I might build something of the like.

I'm curious what species of wood was used. Any ideas? Teak?

 

[shoot summ]

It is frame and panel construction, and the panel has been decoratively routed.

I'd say the wood is Ipe.

 

[Jinks]

Hi everyone. My wife wants double gates for the side of the house. I’d like to build it if I can handle it. I like to think I’m handy.

This is what she has in mind.


The opening is 8’.

First question is do i build a gate out of plywood and then cover it with the herringbone pattern?

Thanks so much everyone

First, covered plywood will not get you that kind of work.

Second, I would not put that quality of wood work outside. It's beautiful, but keeping it that way will take a lot of work. I had double front doors with that quality of work, & under a "slight" cover on a house in Fla. I managed to keep them for 10 years, replaced them, & managed another 10 years before we sold the house. It was a lot of work. Our current front door is attractive, but painted, & under several feet of cover.

That quality of wood work deserves protection. For an open area find a different material, but don't give up on beauty.

 

[LeeG]

It looks to be a more complex version of this gate I made for a friend of mine.



As stated above, the outer frame was built as a standard frame, and the inner pieces were tongue and groove boards set into a dado on the inner rail. I don't remember whether or not we did half-lap joints on the corners of the outer frame or mortise and tenon but either would work well.

 

[jives]

What does the backside of those gates look like? And does it matter? this could dictate your construction method.

 

[CTyankee]

Those beautiful doors are fairly small and probably heavy. You're talking two 4 ft doors. IMO, their weight should play a big factor in their build. For a DIY project, I'd do a simple decorative frame like Lee did and fill in with whatever off the shelf stock you can find that will give the doors some lines. Maybe you can even find a 8 ft section of some decorative fencing that you can cut and use as inserts. Unless you've got some detail experience and want to spend a lot of time, I don't think I'd be trying design/create a pattern from scratch. Heck, just hanging them is going to be a treat. JMO..YMMV.

 

[Steve in UT]

I think you could easily get a similar look using a plywood base. Granted, it would be quite a bit thicker because of the plywood core and also having to build the covering on both front and back. I think it would look great if you put a proper cap around it. Also, it would be stronger than the pictured gate.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Make sure you put a lintel over the gate posts. 4 foot wide doors are heavy, and will tip your gate posts, unless they're buried really deep.

 

[Zeke]

If you look closely, that is plywood that has been scored. Having built numerous gates I always sandwich marine plywood as a core. Everything else WILL sag. Trust me on this, I have built gates for homes right on the waterfront that went out of square within weeks before going to plywood. Metal as a whole or as a perimeter frame is not an option 100 yards from the ocean.

 

[ive]

I agree 100% with the others. That is a very nice gate and I saved the picture as I might build something of the like.

I'm curious what species of wood was used. Any ideas? Teak?

Hi marek. I have no idea what the wood is. Just have that one picture.

 

[ive]

What does the backside of those gates look like? And does it matter? this could dictate your construction method.

Wish I had a backside pic but I don’t.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Listen to Zeke^^^.

His work is the real deal and his experience is long.

 

[rharman]

^^^^ Totally agree with this sentiment ^^^^

Look at the grain. The routing pattern deceives you into thinking it is made of slats.

 

[jar944]

How close are you trying to get to the sapele version you posted, And what do you have for woodworking tools?

 

[CraigStu]

What Kay said. There was a thread here a few weeks ago from a guy trying to figure out how to keep his fence door from sagging. I 'think' I remember that he had 3ft of pipe in the ground in concrete. It still sagged. An option for building the doors might be to use some type of plastic composite decking boards. There are lots of colors and grains available. And some of them are partially hollow which would help w/ weight.

 

[CTyankee]

Here's the place that makes the doors posted. You'd have to contact them to be sure, but I I don't believe they are plywood. They claim the panel inserts are solid wood that has been laminated. As far as preventing sagging, depending on which way the OP plans to have them open, you can buy gate casters if they will be opening onto a hard surface.

Edit: oops, forgot the link.

https://fenceandgatecrafters.com/gates

 

[Jackfre]

I would suggest that with a 4’ gate that you go deep and heavy with your post and look into wheels for the gate bottom. I am adding one to my daughters gate at her new home. The gate post is the belt. The wheel is the suspenders. On a 4’er, youy need both.

 

[Shiftless]

Several of my neighbors built 8 foot or bigger gates in one piece and put them on wheels. With power actuators. If you’ve got the space to one side of the gate, that’s a great way to go. Expensive of course, but you can build a really fancy heavy gate and it will never sag and you won’t need a lintel which of course limits headroom.

 

[yeldogt]

It certainly looks like one of the modern renamed mahogany imports -- you can buy marine grade plywood with solid core. Teak is not typically grained that way .... but , they sell a lot of variations today.

Looks like typical style and rail with the panel routed and the groves blackened.

IMO success depends on location .. Santa Barbara a better spot for them vs coast of Maine.

Good hardware being a key to them not sagging .... Also, that looks like rocky mountain hardware for the handles ... those two cost more then most building pay for whole house of hardware

 

[reader2580]

Someone I knew made exterior trim and his garage door out of either solid IPE or Teak. They looked great except the wood needed to be sealed every few years. He had let the garage door go a little too long and the poly or whatever he used was peeling badly. I suspect it took a lot of work to get it looking good again.

 

[PugetDude]

Zeke's right- look at how the grain on the plywood panel carries through the routed pattern.
Looks like mortised frame and panel construction to me. Suspect the back side looks similar to balance the surface tension on the panel and minimize warping.

Nice looking gate but it's going to be a ***** to maintain.

 

[CTyankee]

Zeke's right- look at how the grain on the plywood panel carries through the routed pattern.
Looks like mortised frame and panel construction to me. Suspect the back side looks similar to balance the surface tension on the panel and minimize warping.

Nice looking gate but it's going to be a ***** to maintain.

Since you guys insist that those are plywood panels, I called the company. I was told the panels are constructed of 1" thick individual planks laminated together. It's not plywood.

 

[dcg9381]

Find someone with a CNC to do the in-lay. It's really easy with the right tool.

 

[PugetDude]

Since you guys insist that those are plywood panels, I called the company. I was told the panels are constructed of 1" thick individual planks laminated together. It's not plywood.

Typical "ask the GJ, then the actual manufacturer"

The grooves are routed across the grain, whether it's a laminated panel or a plywood panel.
It's not individual boards.

 

[CTyankee]

Typical "ask the GJ, then the actual manufacturer"

The grooves are routed across the grain, whether it's a laminated panel or a plywood panel.
It's not individual boards.

Typical GJ member.. definitively declare something without knowing if it's true or not. The company stated the panels are made from individual boards lamented edge to edge(that's not plywood), but you can think what you'd like.

 

[PugetDude]

You post a picture of one side of a door without any edge or joinery details, ask the GJ community to speculate on said photo and then come back to poke the answer up my *ss after you talk to the manufacturer. Nice.
Good luck with your project.

 

[yeldogt]

Since you guys insist that those are plywood panels, I called the company. I was told the panels are constructed of 1" thick individual planks laminated together. It's not plywood.

The grain matches --- so they would have glued up planks -- if the panel is 1" my guess is the back is flush. The styles and rails are 2" stock and it's a simple dado on the rails. The panel has the mate made with a 1/2 Rabbet. That's the way doors were made back in the 19 century. They would use a shiplap for the center vs an astragal ... this does not need to seal .. so it's square

 

[CTyankee]

Good luck with your project.

I'm not the OP and it's not my project. Maybe that I inquired about the doors led you to believe that. I could expound upon why I did, but I've probably already disrupted the real OP's thread enough.

 

[Zeke]

Easy to make a mistake (as I did) on that since the grain runs through the individual panels as it does. In my mind that doesn't make it look any better or provide more or less strength. Actually, I'd prefer the grain pattern mixed up randomly.

But one thing for sure, it's not lumber which run like that, would expand and contract until it tore itself apart. That's why I sandwich marine ply inside and trim out the edges with solid lumber. 1/2" ply is enough. The individual decorative members can move all they want, the plywood isn't giving any and there's lots of strength for hinges and latches. This makes a nice 2" thick gate using full 3/4" stock. A little thinner using cheaper hill and dale typically sold as fencing which nets out at less than 3/4.

I try to use strap hinges and through bolts. Any single layer T & G board gates I have made lasted 10 years max before they were junk. And the last 5 years weren't pretty, just functional. One issue with a sandwich constructed gate is cupping of the faces if not primed well on the backside.

All in all, the gate the OP pictured seems like a well built unit after hearing of the nature of the construction.

 

[yeldogt]

Easy to make a mistake (as I did) on that since the grain runs through the individual panels as it does. In my mind that doesn't make it look any better or provide more or less strength. Actually, I'd prefer the grain pattern mixed up randomly.

But one thing for sure, it's not lumber which run like that, would expand and contract until it tore itself apart. That's why I sandwich marine ply inside and trim out the edges with solid lumber. 1/2" ply is enough. The individual decorative members can move all they want, the plywood isn't giving any and there's lots of strength for hinges and latches. This makes a nice 2" thick gate using full 3/4" stock. A little thinner using cheaper hill and dale typically sold as fencing which nets out at less than 3/4.

I try to use strap hinges and through bolts. Any single layer T & G board gates I have made lasted 10 years max before they were junk. And the last 5 years weren't pretty, just functional. One issue with a sandwich constructed gate is cupping of the faces if not primed well on the backside.

All in all, the gate the OP pictured seems like a well built unit after hearing of the nature of the construction.

I can still get high grade south American Mahogany -- there is a big importer in Philadelphia that's been around for 100+ years. They deal in all kinds of speciality woods ... it's crazy expensive but when you are making a 25k set of reproduction 19th century front doors --- what's a few extra K.

IMO the best solid interior doors today (paint grade) use a combination of manufactured products for stability.

It would be interesting to know what they charge for those today ---- I had to spend $4500 pre pandemic for one not as nice. Few have 10K + for gates and $1600 for hardware. RM changed me $425 for dummies

 

[Showkey]

Here's the place that makes the doors posted. You'd have to contact them to be sure, but I I don't believe they are plywood. They claim the panel inserts are solid wood that has been laminated. As far as preventing sagging, depending on which way the OP plans to have them open, you can b

https://fenceandgatecrafters.com/gates

Agree…..plywood and extreme weather are not a good match …….marine grade or not.

At that price point….. Ipe, mahogany, cumaru, jatoba, garapa and teak with an oil finish.


DIY compromise………maybe cedar or redwood and very very well designed frame, hardware and support to allow soft lower cost woods.

 

[jar944]

Per the manufacturer website they are solid panels and standard frame and pannel tenon construction. That may or may not be a simple thing depending on your equipment.

What wood type are you trying to build your doors with?

 

[Renegade1LI]

Some gates I built about 7 years ago, used 5/4 pt, 6 x 6 post & SS hinges. I made the latches & handles out of pt as well, I do need to remake a couple handles as they are now starting to check. Clean simple & strong, even made a wood dead bolt, zero sagging of the gates or posts, hopefully will make the fence out of 5/4 this year as well. The 5/4 costs a little more but makes a great gate & fence material, plus using 6 x 6s for the gate & corner posts really makes a strong fence. It also helps to cap the end grain & it gives it a nice look.

 

[Zeke]

Agree…..plywood and extreme weather are not a good match …….marine grade or not.

Yeah, that's why they call it marine.

 

[captain14]

Some gates I built about 7 years ago, used 5/4 pt, 6 x 6 post & SS hinges. I made the latches & handles out of pt as well, I do need to remake a couple handles as they are now starting to check. Clean simple & strong, even made a wood dead bolt, zero sagging of the gates or posts, hopefully will make the fence out of 5/4 this year as well. The 5/4 costs a little more but makes a great gate & fence material, plus using 6 x 6s for the gate & corner posts really makes a strong fence. It also helps to cap the end grain & it gives it a nice look.

Did you apply a finish or seal the wood? It still looks great after 7 years.

 

[My Old Tools]

Look at the grain in those. That's a solid panel, or plywood, with routing. No way was that pieced in.