How would a guy make these doors

[ive]

Hi everyone.

After reading all responses I think I’m in over my head with this design.

If I was to go with something like these designs. , how do I keep the boards from pulling apart?. I’d like to keep the look of nice and tight.

Thank you.

 

[The Cobbler]

let the wood dry, and you probably should overlap them rather than **** them to each other. think tongue & groove, shiplap , etc

 

[jar944]

Hi everyone.

After reading all responses I think I’m in over my head with this design.

If I was to go with something like these designs. , how do I keep the boards from pulling apart?. I’d like to keep the look of nice and tight.

Thank you.

They also look like frame and panel doors. Mortise and tenoned outer frame and the center boards set into a groove. Likely tongue and groove boards in the center.

 

[ive]

let the wood dry, and you probably should overlap them rather than **** them to each other. think tongue & groove, shiplap , etc

Yeah no was thinking something like that.

 

[ive]

They also look like frame and panel doors. Mortise and tenoned outer frame and the center boards set into a groove. Likely tongue and groove boards in the center.

Thank you.

 

[HenryAZ]

They also look like frame and panel doors. Mortise and tenoned outer frame and the center boards set into a groove. Likely tongue and groove boards in the center.

This. Use T&G boards for the panels, and *do not* glue them to each other or to the frame. This allows them to expand and contract with the weather. If glued, when they try to move they will crack/split. Allow 1/16"+ free space in the grooves to permit movement. E.g., if your measurement side to side, from bottom of groove to bottom groove is 36", make your panel of boards 35 7/8", or even 35 3/4". Movement is in the width, for the most part.

 

[ive]

This. Use T&G boards for the panels, and *do not* glue them to each other or to the frame. This allows them to expand and contract with the weather. If glued, when they try to move they will crack/split. Allow 1/16"+ free space in the grooves to permit movement. E.g., if your measurement side to side, from bottom of groove to bottom groove is 36", make your panel of boards 35 7/8", or even 35 3/4". Movement is in the width, for the most part.

Thanks Henry. Do I staple them in?

 

[PugetDude]

Space balls…

 

[HenryAZ]

Thanks Henry. Do I staple them in?

I never have nailed/stapled any panels in frame and panel construction. The small amount of extra space in the stile/rail grooves is much less than the tongue's width, so movement will never expose anything but a bit of tongue. Also make sure the groove in the stiles/rails is not a tight fit, the idea being to allow the boards to move with the weather. To assemble, start with one stile positioned on the bench, groove facing up, with one rail inserted. Secure the stile in a vise or on the bench with a couple of clamps to keep it from falling over as you go. If it's a really wide door, place the first stile on the floor with your first rail secured in the vise, for stability. Then just stack the T&G boards, and finish off with the other rail and the final stile on top. Glue in the mortise and tenon joints of course. When it is all together, lay it down, drive the rails into their final position, clamp across the rails, square it up, and pin the tenons.

 

[ive]

Thank you Henry. I’m going to research this. What you are describing will be the first time for me.

Thank you very much again.

 

[jar944]

This is generally similar design, though the "panel" is set into a rebate rather than a groove, and it's a door, not a gate but conceptually similar.

 

[Sumboodie]

Metal as a whole or as a perimeter frame is not an option 100 yards from the ocean.

Why not. Boats are metal.