How would I measure this to get it replicated?

[hailwood1965]

I'd like to repliacte this. It is a grab bar from a reasonably rare motorcycle (Yamaha RZ500).

I live in a small town. There really isn't a shop with a small tube bender at all. I am probably going to have to send the dimensions out to get it made. How would I measure this so as to make it so a tube bending shop would be able to do so? It's not mine. I don't want to send this one out.

Any help appreciated.

Dog for scale. Ha.

 

[HalfTonTom]

Trace it onto paper?

 

[mike93lx]

A copier will make a 1:1 copy

But doing anything but sending out the original will be a **** shoot, IMO.

Either that or build a jig for it to mount to, so the shop can have something to check the mounts against

 

[Jsf721]

Make a mold fill mold
With plastic send out plastic mold.

 

[Lightning rod]

Don't know where you are located but they are still available up here
in Canada at the salvage yards.

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[jimgood]

What's wrong with that part that you need to replicate it? And is it a part that can fit on either side of the bike or only one side (i.e. is it symmetrical)? If it's not symmetrical and it's not broken in some way, are you sure it doesn't need to be mirrored?
I'm certainly no expert but that looks like it's basically flat; i.e. the center of the main tube is on one plane. I would just see if you an find someone with a tube bender and the correct size dies to bend up the main tube. You might even be able to buy a Harbor Freight bender for the amount you'd pay for someone to replicate the thing.
Are the crushed sections of the tube necessary for clearance or would it be possible to weld threaded spacers onto the tube without those sections being crushed?
The rest is easy. Just threaded spacers welded on, which any welder could do. You just need to know the size and pitch of the threads. Get steel spacers with the correct O.D and a smaller inside diameter. Then drill and tap them to the needed thread size.
As someone said above, to get the position of the spacers correct, make a jig. I would take 1/8" X 1" flat bar and drill holes the size of the bolts that go into the spacers. Leave an inch or so between the holes. Cut the bar into three pieces such that each piece has a hole offset to one side. Bolt the pieces to the spacers. Cut and weld rods in a triangle to connect the flat bars together. Try to make sure the rods fit well enough before it's welded to ensure the welding process doesn't distort them. But even if it does, you should still be able to adjust it with some beating if necessary.

 

[Jeff95TA]

If you want really accurate measurements you can get it laser scanned to a CAD file. But I think that's a bit more than what you have in mind.

 

[hailwood1965]

Don't know where you are located but they are still available up here
in Canada at the salvage yards.

All Products

Used Motorcycle Parts, Used ATV Parts, Used Snowmobile Parts, Motorcycle batteries, Motorcycle chains, Gas Tank, Motorcycle Fenders, Motorcycle Shocks, Motorcycle Bearings, Motorcycle Batteries, Snowmobile Parts Canada, Used Parts Canada, Oshawa Cycle, Motorcycle Side Covers, Vintage Motorcycle...

www.oshawacycle.com

I'm in the USA. What salvage yard would I try?

 

[hailwood1965]

What's wrong with that part that you need to replicate it? And is it a part that can fit on either side of the bike or only one side (i.e. is it symmetrical)? If it's not symmetrical and it's not broken in some way, are you sure it doesn't need to be mirrored?
I'm certainly no expert but that looks like it's basically flat; i.e. the center of the main tube is on one plane. I would just see if you an find someone with a tube bender and the correct size dies to bend up the main tube. You might even be able to buy a Harbor Freight bender for the amount you'd pay for someone to replicate the thing.
Are the crushed sections of the tube necessary for clearance or would it be possible to weld threaded spacers onto the tube without those sections being crushed?
The rest is easy. Just threaded spacers welded on, which any welder could do. You just need to know the size and pitch of the threads. Get steel spacers with the correct O.D and a smaller inside diameter. Then drill and tap them to the needed thread size.
As someone said above, to get the position of the spacers correct, make a jig. I would take 1/8" X 1" flat bar and drill holes the size of the bolts that go into the spacers. Leave an inch or so between the holes. Cut the bar into three pieces such that each piece has a hole offset to one side. Bolt the pieces to the spacers. Cut and weld rods in a triangle to connect the flat bars together. Try to make sure the rods fit well enough before it's welded to ensure the welding process doesn't distort them. But even if it does, you should still be able to adjust it with some beating if necessary.

There's a HF about 70 miles away. What bender am I looking to get? Thank you.

 

[BillK]

Realistically it would be very very difficult to duplicate that part from any type of drawing other than maybe an original engineering document. Why dont you want to tell us where you are located ? You would be surprised how many people here might actually know someone close to you that you could bring it to.

 

[whateg01]

What's wrong with that part that you need to replicate it? And is it a part that can fit on either side of the bike or only one side (i.e. is it symmetrical)? If it's not symmetrical and it's not broken in some way, are you sure it doesn't need to be mirrored?
I'm certainly no expert but that looks like it's basically flat; i.e. the center of the main tube is on one plane. I would just see if you an find someone with a tube bender and the correct size dies to bend up the main tube. You might even be able to buy a Harbor Freight bender for the amount you'd pay for someone to replicate the thing.
Are the crushed sections of the tube necessary for clearance or would it be possible to weld threaded spacers onto the tube without those sections being crushed?
The rest is easy. Just threaded spacers welded on, which any welder could do. You just need to know the size and pitch of the threads. Get steel spacers with the correct O.D and a smaller inside diameter. Then drill and tap them to the needed thread size.
As someone said above, to get the position of the spacers correct, make a jig. I would take 1/8" X 1" flat bar and drill holes the size of the bolts that go into the spacers. Leave an inch or so between the holes. Cut the bar into three pieces such that each piece has a hole offset to one side. Bolt the pieces to the spacers. Cut and weld rods in a triangle to connect the flat bars together. Try to make sure the rods fit well enough before it's welded to ensure the welding process doesn't distort them. But even if it does, you should still be able to adjust it with some beating if necessary.

Afaik, harbor freight does not sell a tubing bender. I would expect Canadian tire to be the same.

 

[whateg01]

I'm in the USA. What salvage yard would I try?

That probably depends a lot on where in the USA. Last I checked this is a pretty big country.

If all of the tubes coming off the main hoop are centered, it should be pretty easy. You should be able to pretty easily trace the main hoop and the two attachment points on the ends. The center one, if it is centered shouldn't be too tough either. Just flip the part so the main hoop is level then use a protractor to get the angle. Get some key dimensions that the builder can use to sanity check.

How accurately does it need to match the original? Does it just need to be functional? Or do the depressions at the ends need to be there also?

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

That would be a good candidate for sand bending the tubing. No tubing bender needed. Do you have any fab skills?

 

[lilredex]

What's the tube diameter? I can see bending that with a conduit bender that can be found second hand. I have enough bends in my tubing junk box that could be pieced together and welded up. Not that far off bicycle handle bars if you can cut and weld.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Looks like the top of a school chair. I’d accurately measure the diameter with some calipers and try to match it up at the scrap yard, habitat for humanity or Salvation Army style stores.

 

[speed bump]

Looking at it I would guess 1" (25 mm if metric) tube. The back is slightly rolled and then the corners are mandrel bent on roughly 3" radius. Pretty simple for someone with the appropriate tooling. Probably easiest to find a shop around you that does metal fab and has a 1" tube die. Start at your local steel yard, they should be able to recommend a couple of places.

 

[kaymccampbell]

There's a HF about 70 miles away. What bender am I looking to get? Thank you.

Take your pick. I've got the 44" compact bender, and some homemade dies to make it bend smaller tubing. It does pretty good.

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[jimgood]

Realistically it would be very very difficult to duplicate that part from any type of drawing other than maybe an original engineering document. Why dont you want to tell us where you are located ? You would be surprised how many people here might actually know someone close to you that you could bring it to

Sorry. Grabbed the wrong quote.

Afaik, harbor freight does not sell a tubing bender. I would expect Canadian tire to be the same

I haven't looked at their benders in a while. They do have one online but it has flat dies, which would be basically useless here. But this is the bender:

44 in. Telescoping Handle Compact Bender

Amazing deals on this Compact Bender at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Here's one on Amazon that might work and it has the correct type of dies (that looks like 1" tube or smaller):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7DDYCVF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Same basic bender for 129 on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/122813011890

 

[Snip's]

Try the Yoshimura way....

Oh, and nice vise..... And why isn't Yoshimura on GJ? His place would fit right in....

 

[whateg01]

Here's one on Amazon that might work and it has the correct type of dies (that looks like 1" tube or smaller):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7DDYCVF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Same basic bender for 129 on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/122813011890

I would confirm the correct CLR before shelling out money for a bender.

 

[ez-duzit]

...doing anything but sending out the original will be a **** shoot...

This.

You aren't going to duplicate this with a HF bender.

 

[65ranchero]

What about a custom exhaust shop?
They have the correct tools/mandrels but I don't know if the sizes go down that small.

 

[Lightning rod]

I believe that Yamaha never brought the RZ500 into the USA but was available
every else in the world so it may be difficult to find parts in the USA. Many salvage yards in Canada ship to the USA. So if you are interested in buying an original part, just email the shop and see if they will ship to the USA. Many have contacts around the world and will help you find the parts you are looking for. Such as;

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[david3921]

Just an FYI, you can see the part on the tail of the bike.

 

[Walkers]

To make a drawing you will need an overhead (plan view) drawing showing tube diameter, a centerline, bend radius and dimensions for the stubs. Then you will need 2 or 3 cut away elevations, or side view, showing stub length, angles, etc. Not too tough to draw, not too tough to make.

 

[david3921]

I'd like to repliacte this. It is a grab bar from a reasonably rare motorcycle (Yamaha RZ500).

I live in a small town. There really isn't a shop with a small tube bender at all. I am probably going to have to send the dimensions out to get it made. How would I measure this so as to make it so a tube bending shop would be able to do so? It's not mine. I don't want to send this one out.

Any help appreciated.

Dog for scale. Ha.

Why do you want replicate this?

 

[cannuck]

As has been mentioned, your best bet would be to find the unicorn from a wrecker, but I would doubt there has been one dismantled anywhere. You MIGHT be able to find either a new part or NOS part, so I would go down the Yamaha dealer route to give that one a try first.

If you still want to replicate, by far the most accurate way to make a drawing is have it scanned in 3D. Not going to be cheap, but I doubt ANYTHING to do with a RZ500 is going to happen for nickels and dimes. There are 6 parts to be made: the main hoop, 2 x bushings in the end, 2 little stubs and the center one. Each one will need a detail drawing, and then an assembly drawing in 3 dimensions - not something a muffler shop could do even if they had the tooling. Note that the main hoop has 3 bends, 2 identical small radius but a long large radius bend connecting the two. Again, not something you are going to do with even a good mandrel bender. This was made with dedicated production tooling. If you had a genuine highly skilled fabricator, he (or she) would mandrel bend the two smaller bends against and extremely accurate drawing than have to build something like a wooden form calculated with the correct amount of spring-back and press the long bend into it. He would also prefer to have the original to make a jig that places the end of the 3 stubs and 2 bushings exactly in the right place in 3 dimensions and then tig it together. You will need to know the exact OD of the metric tube and wall thickness (that part is fairly easy), and note that the welding site for the 2 little stubs have been flattened a bit. You would be very lucky to have someone do this for a grand.

If you are dead serious about getting the part either found or made, you need someone plugged into the ********* of race bikes and similar stuff. Head over to https://www.ripplerockracers.com/ and check with Kemp Archibald. You may find he has even been on same track as your screen name. Tell him his first ever race bike mechanic sent you.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Good luck! If it were just two bends it would be simple...add in the rolled section between the two 70° +/- bends, now you've got your work cut out for you.

 

[sz0k30]

Realistically it would be very very difficult to duplicate that part from any type of drawing other than maybe an original engineering document.

To replicate accurately you need to have sharp edges/corners to measure from/to. You don't have those, all you have is curves, and not everything appears to be on the same plane. The best you can hope for is to be reasonably close. If you need exact, you're pretty much out of luck.

 

[alfadan]

There had to have been another model sold in the US that had the same grab bar.

 

[white6589]

Here's one that looks close:

The part number on a RX500 parts diagram and thought it may be the one your looking for.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[cannuck]

There had to have been another model sold in the US that had the same grab bar.

Very unlikely. The closest might have been the RZ350 but a very different bike from the 500. BTW: I hope you realize who/what else shares your screen name!

Then of course I posted this and saw #31. there's the real answer.

 

[alfadan]

BTW: I hope you realize who/what else shares your screen name!

No, who?

 

[cannuck]

No, who?

Alfadan, Inc. | StartEngine

Re-defining the outboard engine

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Fundraising scam with total BS design proposal

 

[alfadan]

They stole my scam!

 

[cannuck]

They stole my scam!

If I can think like ..... ah.....GOT IT!

Best scam for you is to sue them for defamation of character!

 

[alfadan]

Nah they still got more character than me.

 

[Lassen Forge]

BTW, the cycle salvage yards in the states (as do auto dismantlers) subscribe to a "hotline" service - at least allof ours did - so if they don't have something, you could ask them to put it "on the hotline" to see if anyone has one. They'll act as your broker for the other salvage yard, and viola.

Used to get all kinds of parts that way.

 

[whateg01]

Here's one:

That doesn't look like the same part.

 

[whateg01]

To replicate accurately you need to have sharp edges/corners to measure from/to. You don't have those, all you have is curves, and not everything appears to be on the same plane. The best you can hope for is to be reasonably close. If you need exact, you're pretty much out of luck.

That is absolutely not true. It appears the main hoop is planar, so you can use cylinders to map the edges of it. Very similar to trying to find the theoretical point of a triangle that might not have sharp corners. Using cylinders to locate the sides of it, you can extrapolate to get the theoretical point, even though it might not exist IRL.