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How would you add diagonal bracing to this wall?

MalibuLX3

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Rochester, MI
Due to some termite damage, I’ve had to repair some of the studs along this garage wall. I’m doing so, I’ve needed to temporally remove some of the diagonal bracing to make the repairs. Given the exterior of the building is stucco and there is no exterior sheathing, this diagonal bracing is very important.

I could put the diagonal bracing back how it was originally, but it looks like it was a bit hacked up to make room for water lines and the vent pipe.

If you were to add diagonal bracing to this wall, how would you do it? E69029D6-E465-40B5-B92D-59E019050D07.jpeg
 
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MalibuLX3

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Thanks for the suggestions. I’m definitely planning on putting up plywood, but it might be a bit of time before I get there. I’m looking to add a bit of bracing that will be good enough for now.
 
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bluedog225

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Put up a strap. Or nail some 2x4 temp braces to the surface. Ply is the right answer. Well nailed off. And maybe spray it down with timbor before closing. And boric acid powder and diatomaceous earth on the plates.
 

Bucko

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I've never seen bracing done like that. It does not seem very effective. Before the lower cost of OSB and it being accepted as code you would see 1x8 at a 45 degree that was put into a notch in the 2x4's.
 

bluedog225

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Or a 1x4 brace would probably be fine. Use 16d common hdg for better hold.

And when you put in the ply, raise it off the floor by 1/2” to keep it out of any water on floor.
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
I'd use this
 

rayra

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Escaped from Los Angeles
That kind of "bracing" seems next to useless. The rigidity depends entirely on the fasteners. The better way for diagonal bracing would have been to run it continuous and inlet it into the studs, using something like a 1x4. But that's not necessary at all. Staggered fire blocking would serve just as well or better than what is pictured. And as others have said, sheathing will act much like a stressed skin on an aircraft, and prevent lateral wracking quite well.
 
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