How would you do baseboard around this vanity?

[pgray007]

This is the first time I’ve installed a “freestanding” vanity versus a cabinet-style one.

WWJ*D on this vanity? It’s a freestanding unit and sits a bit too close to the wall in the back such that it would interfere with the 7” baseboard I’m putting in. Should I just do a “notch” in the baseboard to accommodate the back legs, or just stop the base at the legs? Base under the vanity? It would probably need a “haircut” to accommodate the vanity, but I hate to leave a gap between tile and wall where funk could collect.



How about on the side against the wall? I was thinking of just ripping a piece of shoe moulding and trying to get a vaguely similar stain, or would you just leave the gap?



* or your preferred carpenter


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[shoot summ]

On the back there are 2 ways, "notch" the base, or notch the legs. I would likely just cut an angle on the base, and then try to fit/scribe it to the leg to make sure there wasn't a gap.

I wouldn't put any molding on the side, but I would also rethink the placement of the vanity. That one is meant to have a stand alone look to it. I would move it away from the wall if possible.

 

[gungatim]

I'm with him ^.

do your trim first, then put the vanity in, leave it away from the wall a bit to clear if you want to keep the open look. personally I would just get some oak plywood and build a base around it and stain or paint to match. that's just a dust and junk collector space under there...

and see if you can clamp the top tenon rail into the stile a bit better, looks like it has a gap.

 

[pgray007]

On the back there are 2 ways, "notch" the base, or notch the legs. I would likely just cut an angle on the base, and then try to fit/scribe it to the leg to make sure there wasn't a gap.

I wouldn't put any molding on the side, but I would also rethink the placement of the vanity. That one is meant to have a stand alone look to it. I would move it away from the wall if possible.

I agree on the “stand alone” look, and that was indeed the original plan, but the “design department” voted for flush with the wall. Let me see if I can get my wife to see the wisdom of moving it out.


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[CJ7VFR]

Is the vanity already anchored in place? I had a similar situation as you a few months ago when I updated our small downstairs bathroom.

The new vanity has 4 short legs on it like yours does. Instead of baseboards, my bathroom has just a simple quarter round piece of trim all around where the walls meet the floor. The two back legs would hit the quarter round before the sides and top of the vanity would come in contact with the wall.

So before I attached the vanity to the wall, and before I installed the sink, I was able to remove the two back legs, re-drill new holes for them about a half inch forward of where they originally were, and then re-install the back legs.

This gave me just enough room to be able to push the vanity back against the wall and have the two back feet clear the quarter round trim on the floor. And the half inch offset is not that noticeable.

Maybe you could do something similar? Mine was a fairly easy fix, but yours may require you to also cut back what looks like a piece of trim on the vanity that connects between the front and back legs. But it might still be doable.

Jim

 

[ilovevocs]

This seems like a task my ex wife would bestow up me.

 

[The Cobbler]

can you shift the base of the vanity a bit to allow the baseboard to slide behind each leg?
or
use a smaller base in the bath, something that will slide between

 

[The Cobbler]

sorry, misrea the first time, I see it's the back wall that's the issue.
can you use a pc of base trim that is thinner?

 

[pgray007]

Vanity is not yet attached. I think it looks better a few inches off the wall, although then that space becomes a dust collector.

Since the vanity isn’t connected or anything whatever solution I develop can be implemented fairly easily.


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[gasgas17]

We run into these vanities on legs all the time at work. Although most don't have round legs. I would cut a filler out of matching wood for the right side. Set it back from the front edge a 1/4" or so and it will just blend in as a dark accent line. You can fasten it from inside of the vanity or even clamp it in place by screwing the vanity to the wall. Just like any cabinet filler. For the back legs, you could just lay a board across the two end legs and this would allow you to cut a flat side on the back with a jigsaw if you can picture that. Then just run the base by it. Provided it fits under the kick space. A lot of the time we just place a piece of base against the back of the vanity and trace inside the legs and cut to fit. Then scribe the outside piece to fit.

 

[pgray007]

Wanted to circle back with the solution I came up with (based on the good advice here) since I hate threads where you never see what was implemented.

I ultimately installed the vanity flush with the wall and botched the baseboard. Behind the vanity I ripped down some baseboard, mostly to prevent crud from getting into the gap between the tile and wall.








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[nutjob]

I ultimately installed the vanity flush with the wall and botched the baseboard.

Yep.

 

[gungatim]

I don't think you botched it, looks like a good solution. you'll probably notice it every time you walk in the bathroom. undoubtedly nobody else in the world will though...some sort of "laws of criticality of one's own work" or something like that...

 

[CJ7VFR]

I agree that it looks great. Nice solution to a problem.

I don't think you botched it, looks like a good solution. you'll probably notice it every time you walk in the bathroom. undoubtedly nobody else in the world will though...some sort of "laws of criticality of one's own work" or something like that...

I can agree with this 100 percent!

When I re-did our small bathroom, I was putting in new quarter round molding at the wall/floor area, and I ran out of sections of molding long enough to have just single pieces along each wall.

I didn't want to go back out to get more molding, so I pieced two sections together near the toilet. I got them to **** up against each other really nicely, and I used some caulk to fill in any line between the two pieces. When that was dry I sanded everything smooth.

After I painted everything, the first time I took a piss in the new toilet I could see a faint line where the two pieces of molding meet up. I was like WTF. I asked my wife to see if she could find the spot without me telling her where it was. She could not.

So just like you said, I don't think anyone but me will ever know it is there, but it still bugs me every time I take a piss and see it.

Jim

 

[The Cobbler]

looks good!

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Kinda late to the ball game. What is you had taken the back out of the cabinet and recessed a French cleat or some kind of hanger then mounted to the wall. Then take off the base or cut the legs to length of the base. Hang high enough to at least clear baseboard.
Our vanity hangs off the wall. Easy to clean under and great to hide the weigh scales when needed. Like after pigging out at Christmas.
You did a great job and here is to many more.

 

[djbmw]

I also know that I'm too late to the discussion but I was going to initially suggest that you just pop the counter top off the cabinet and move the counter top 1/4" back/to the side and re-silicone it to the cabinet. This way the counter top still remains flush with the drywall, but now there's 1/4" more room between the cabinet and the walls, thereby allowing you to do your full run of baseboard.

 

[493mike]

One more late to the party! Had you even considered using commercial rubber/vinyl base trim? I used it in my garage bathroom with tile floor and painted drywall and am very pleased with the look.
Mike

 

[Bluevista]

Looks good!

Those freestanding vanities may look nice to some but they make no sense at all , a dresser with a sink in it??? Just put in a new vanity huh? After you try to find something that hasn't been made in 50 years to patch in the floor where the old one was, patch in the baseboards and walls, re-route pipes sticking out of the floor, wires too, figuring out how to level the thing, etcetera.
Easy one day job that can take you a week, then they ask you how they're supposed to clean underneath it.

 

[pgray007]

So ducking autocorrect changed “notched” to “botched” somehow...

This is my first vanity, and wife wanted to do something “cooler” than the usual base cabinet vanity. In retrospect moving the countertop over would have probably been a good move, but I’m generally happy with how it came out.

I’m finally able to work up in the room now that there’s a bath, hvac, etc, and it’s been in godsend for client calls when there’s 4 kids in the house, so I’ll take a vanity that’s 85% vs. 100%. Plus it passed the wife test so that’s probably worth the extra 15%!


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[SlappyWhite]

Sorry, another late to the game but for anyone finding this thread in the future. I have faced and solved this one... Your solution does look good.

Another option. Modify the cabinet moving the rear legs forward a an inch (or more) so they will clear horizontal distance wise the baseboard thickness. Then use a shorter baseboard (or rip one down) so it clears height wise. Use the same baseboard for the entire room if you can.

You can also use slightly taller legs (while moving the back ones forward as per the above) to allow for clearance, as long as the extra height at the top can be lived with.

In my case I built the cabinet(s) from scratch and used longer legs and the rear spacing as per the above.

Now the cabinet will clear everything...

 

[rct]

One possible solution I did not see listed was move the cabinet out, put in the regular baseboard, then put the cabinet against the baseboard. At that point, place the countertop on against the walls. Then you avoid notching the cabinent, legs or baseboard. The countertop overhang and caulk between the counter and wall give you your wiggle room. If that bothers you, run a chair rail and/or wainscoting to thicken the whole wall over the baseboard.