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How would you Insulate your new pole building

manrmark

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Sep 6, 2009
Messages
75
Location
Nebraska Panhandle
I just had a 42 x 88 x 12 Cleary pole building built, the inside walls are about 10' 6". I plan on partitioning off 32 x 42 feet and Insulating, sheetrock, and Heating. The concrete is already poured.
My question is how would you Insulate, Foam is out of the question, the closest foam guy is 120 miles away and doesn't want to come up here for a small job.
I'm thinking of 2x6 that separate the heated shop with the non heated shop. On the outside walls how about 2x4 with R-19 or should I use 2x6 with R-19
Any other suggestions would be helpful
 
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krooser

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Jun 3, 2005
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2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
A 2X6 dividing wall would be ideal.

You can build a 2X4 wall on the outside walls and use R19... I had extra used 2X6's and laid them flat like the outside girts and laid my 4X8 sheets on the side and scred them to the girts. too late now but the best way to build a pole shed is to "flush" build with the sidewall girts INSIDE the poles on 48" centers... lets you use 4' fiberglass batts without having to build a false wall...
 

VC-Racing

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Mar 28, 2009
Messages
156
Location
Coastal SC on The Edisto River
I too wanted to have my building foamed, but the cost was way more than I wanted to spend, so I talked to the guy who was framing my roof and he recommended I use a Double bubble insulation all the way around . He even set up some inspections of buildings, where he had installed that type of insulation, and I was surprised how well it works.
We went in one building and the outside temp was pushing close 100, the interior was reasonably comfortable. I wasn't too concerned with the cooler temps, but we've been having some cooler weather the past day or 2 and the interior of my building was not bad. Once I got inside and started working, I was moving around in short sleeves. However, I do have a 75K salamander heater to use when its extremely cold. The only thing I didn't like was the look of the foil face, but after I get all my electrical run and air and water lines plumbed in the next week or 2 , I'm going to cover the walls with some type of plywood or OSB.
 

Possum

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Dec 10, 2008
Messages
302
Location
KS
A 32x42x10'6" is a small job? That is nearly 3000 sq ft figuring you do the ceiling flat - not doing the underside of the roof and gable ends. What does he normally do?
 

boiler7904

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Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
3,414
Location
NW IN
R-19 in a 2x4 stud cavity is a bad idea for two reasons. 1 - compressing fiberglass batt insulation reduces the effective R-value. 2 - the insulation pressing on the back of the sheet rock will cause bulges in it and make the board hard to attach to the framing. R-15 is designed for 2x4 walls so that's what I'd use if goign with 2x4 framing.

2x6 framing with R-19 would make for a better end product but i'm not sure how long it would take for you to realize energy savings equal to the initial premium in construction cost.

Just another idea - cellulose isn't just for attics, it can be blown into walls too.

Either way, make sure you include a proper vapor barrier in the right location based on your climate.
 

mad57

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Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
In my pole barn i have at least 7in inside wall, the outter 2x4 then 6x6 then 2x4 inner .. i put r13 uncrafted ( got it for free but new)doubled in my wall and still have space between metal outter wall so it can breathe, i used metal wire to hold the insulation from dropping. then i installed the plastic vapor barrier over that. i plan on sheetrocking soon.
 

rcozzo

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Sep 6, 2006
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46
Location
Delaware,OH
I framed in the walls with 2x6's on 24" centers with R19 unfaced fiberglass batts. The 2x6's are flush with the 6x6 posts, so drywalling was easy. Vapor barrier between the fiberglass and drywall, all seams taped. Menards had good pricing on the 24" R19 batts from Johns Manville.

It really depends on how your building was framed. For me the 2x6's, while not the cheapest, was the easiest way. My headers were 2x10's, nailed to the inside and outside of the 6x6 posts. This meant I could extend my 2x6 framing right up between the headers, and stuff the batt all the up as well.
 
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MN BIANCHI

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Sep 30, 2009
Messages
174
Location
Moorhead, Minnesota
I am currently errecting a pole building. This is how the wall insulation is being done:
energy-02-large.jpg

The walls are 6" thick plus 1-1/2" for 2 X 4 horizontals on both sides of the wall. The insulation is 6" R-19. The bats are quite large. 8 ft wide and 12 ft high for going between the 8' posts on the gable ends. On the other side walls the posts are spaced 4' apart.
energy-03-large.jpg
 
OP
M

manrmark

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Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
75
Location
Nebraska Panhandle
Thank You for all of your replies.
I was thinking of using 2x4's on the outside walls. I have about
6-7" (6" posts) so the R-19 insulation would stick out past the studs and wouldn't be compressed. Would I be wasing my money if I also put 1 1/2" foam baord between the girts and then frame the walls with 2x4 and insulate with R-19 kraft faced insulation.
 
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sstruckguy

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Sep 1, 2008
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592
Location
Paducah, KY
Have you thought of blown in? Either expading foam, or treated celulose?

My current stick built shop has bat wall insulation with blown in attic insulation. My previous pole barn had rigid foam at the ceiling and hand made spacers between the "poles".

Since the horizontal runners were 24" on centers, and the poles were 6", I built a bracket to space out, to make room for the insulation. It worked well.

I used the blown, treated cellulose, in my new home construction. It ended up being almost air tight. (in a good way)
 

Brimaster

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
23
Good post manrmark. :thumbup:
I just had a pole building built in September and and planning for insulating it also in the furure. I was told to pick something that is able to stand moisture and also not give a place for little visitors to make a home in. I was thinking of something like this http://www.insulation4less.com/ or as some have posted a spray/blown in type.
 

Nutty 5.0

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Aug 25, 2008
Messages
250
Location
SE PA
Nice shop. How did you do the ceiling, attach the foam board, I can't tell by your pictures.

Well its not the right way, but took 2x4's and toe nailed them to the 4' on center trusses and ran 2.5 to 3" drywall screws and using roofing nail plastic washers to anchor the insulation. Definately not the preferred way but it worked.
 

mad57

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Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
Heres what i did in pics took them today.
GARAGEINSULATIONINWALL.jpg

GARAGEPLASTICLINED.jpg

garageplastic1.jpg
 
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dmcintosh

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Jul 24, 2013
Messages
250
Location
Smyrna, DE
I insulated my pole barn too. The ceiling was done with blown-in loose fiberglass after it was dry walled, and the walls I'm using R-19 batts. I chose to put 2x6 studs in between the posts. For what it's worth, it was less expensive for me to have an insulation contractor install both the loose fill in the ceiling and batts in the walls than it was for me to buy the materials.
 

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