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How would you repair this plastic lever?

nbpt100

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I have this electric mower I am reconditioning and the final thing left is to repair the severed plastic switch lever. It was duct taped together so someone could run it for a bit but that is not a sound solution. I want to attach it in a way that will be reliable and look/feel like a permanent fix.

A new part is not available. I don't know what kind of plastic it is.

I have a few ideas but I want to see what the creative and talented folks on here may have for practical suggestions to repair this.

See the pics and note the yellow plastic lever. Duct tape residue is visible in the pictures.
Thanks.
 

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f150skidoo

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I would try some good epoxy for plastic, like the stuff you have to mix together not crazy glue.

Sent from my LG-K210 using Tapatalk
 

torqueman2002

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Reinforce the switch with a piece or 2 of mechanics wire, rough up the mating surfaces slightly, and then 2-part plastic epoxy.

If the part is exposed where the wire will snag, drill small dia holes to hold the wire inside the 2-halves.
 

JMLangford

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epoxy a small length of wooden dowel in the hollowed out portion of the handle and maybe even countersink a few small screws through the plastic into the dowel......and Bob's your uncle!
 

MarlynOC

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Is it solid plastic? If so use one of the dremel cutoff tools to cut a groove init and insert metal piece in it. And epoxy in place.
 

mbatarga

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I would reinforce it the full length with a metal rod inset on the "hollow" side of the lever and use epoxy as the adhesive. Scuff up the interior of the plastic lever to help the epoxy adhere.
 
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BFBOB

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Ditto metal reinforcement. Preferably a section cut out of a piece of steel tubing to closely match the curvature of the broken piece. I've had the best luck gluing plastic with a urethane based glue, like Goop. (not the hand cleaner!) It remains flexible, so the metal piece is a must.
I've never yet found a glue that is strong enough - and sticks well enough - to just glue that piece back together. Maybe if you knew the plastic type some specialty adhesive would work, but you don't.
Just my experience - I have not tried all the glues mentioned above.

I just read the ad for Loctite plastic bonding system above - it claims it will bond to polypropylene!! If true, that qualifies as a miracle cure in my book!
 
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OP
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nbpt100

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Lots of good suggestions. Thanks!
I am leaning towards the wood dowel cut in half, some type of plastic epoxy and a fiber glass wrap. I can't build the wrap up too much or it will scrape the edges of the housing.

I never Used Q Bond but I have used Permatex and JB Weld 2 part plastic epoxy and I thought they worked pretty good. Although mixing it is a PITA.

I am almost certain a new part is not available. When viewing the exploded view and parts list they only call out the entire assembly with a part number. And.......every part is longer available. They even list the screws as unavailable which is laughable. Just out of curiosity of looked on Ebay to see if there was anything remotely close and no.

It would be great to make a new one out of alum or steel. If only I had a Bridgeport!

Thanks again!
 

pepi

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Depending on how thick it is, could make that with nothing more than a bandsaw, sander, files and drill press, already have the pattern.

Could could use any material starting from a block, such as plastic, nylon, alum, delrin or teflon.



Greg
 

motophile

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ne oh
I have had good luck with repairing broken plastic car mirrors by first gluing with your favorite glue. after curing, i take some heavy gauge wire (coat hanger), cut and bend to a shape that fits, heat red or there abouts and press in to the break, 90 degrees to.
 

rsanter

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Have a new one 3D printed.
The neighbor kid can make the computer model and print it up right after he gets back from school

Bob
 

gearhead1

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What I usually do is put the pieces together and hold them somehow and take a soldering iron and drag the tip along the crack to melt it together for a temporary hold. If you can't fixture the pieces to hold them how you want, use super glue, then the soldering iron to melt together at the break.

Then I use some kind of metal to beef up the area as others have mentioned, and use an epoxy made for plastics. I study the mechanism/application, which side is in tension and which is in compression. My thought is you want the metal reinforcement on the tension side if at all possible. I keep those big copper looking staples from big cardboard boxes for this type of repair. Straighten out the legs to be straight down, drill holes in the part, push the legs through and try to bend the legs back without breaking the superglued/melted joint. Or, if possible, get the holes drilled and the big staple in place, then superglue/melt the joint, then epoxy.

As I understand from the pic, you would want the staple on the top, with the legs going down so that the bulk of the staple material is on the tension side. Obviously this may not work if the plastic handle bottoms out due to the staple.

Sounds silly, but it works.
 

CGT80

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Yeah but where is the fun in that??:lol_hitti
this is the GJ.....the OP asked to fix it....:thumbup:beer::lol_hitti
You should be ashamed of yourself!

We are on the GJ, right:confused: The place where guys (and girls) have fun using any excuse to buy a garage full of tools is valid; even copying a little yellow lever. You missed out on a change to further the sickness that most of us have. :lol_hitti

Sure he could fix it, but like mentioned above, there are many materials that could be used for a new lever and some basic tools may be enough to get the job done.

I suppose you have a point, though. Some people here, just want to get the task at hand done easily. Sometimes I am that way, and other times I need an excuse for new tools. :beer:
 
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KRB52

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Sep 25, 2013
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Fire up the forge, heat the steel and hammer out a new one. Or, if you are going for a "restoration", check e-bay.
 

sanddan

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Oregon
I would make a new one out of plastic, see McMaster-Carr. Bandsaw out the overall shape and sand to the contour you like, either duplicate the original or your own creation. Use a drill press or hand drill for the holes and then like new.

Buy black plastic and it would look factory.
 
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