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AussieDan

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Sep 18, 2008
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298
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Syracuse, NY
Saw this on CL the other day, and just got it delivered today.

1978 Jet 12-speed 2hp mill/drill and 30x60" 3/8" steel-topped table for $500 delivered.

It has sat for a while and definitely needs some cleaning up, new belts, and I have to pick up a VFD to drive the thing.

It's no Bridgeport, but everything seems to move freely and I'll certainly learn a lot getting it into operating order!

 
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AussieDan

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Sep 18, 2008
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Syracuse, NY
Thanks guys, right now I'm a bit worried I overpaid and/or it's junk :confused:

By the time I get the new belts and VFD the total is going to start creeping up. It came with a bunch of R-8 collets but no cutters.
 

SWells

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Feb 4, 2006
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73
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Alberta, Canada
Assuming it's in good shape, I think you got an OK deal on it. Tooling can get expensive and when you start wanting the add ons (rotary tables, etc) hold on to your wallet. Hey some people golf and will spend as much per hour as you'll spend enjoying the rebuild, learning, playing with the mill. Relax and enjoy it, the decision has already been made. Here are a few of my favorite links to help out:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Introduction/Introduction.htm

http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/

http://www.davehylands.com/Machinist/Charts/

http://www.angelfire.com/ks/mcguirk/metalworklinks.html

http://www.stagesmith.com/Metal-links.html
 
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AussieDan

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Sep 18, 2008
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Syracuse, NY
Thanks for the info SWells, I see a lot of reading in my future.

Looking at phase converters now and it seems like a Hitachi X200-015NFU2 for ~$220 is going to be the best bet. I didn't see anything used that'll accept single-phase 220v and output 3-phase any cheaper than that. There are lots of chinese "quanlity" VFDs available for /12 that, but they all have the same terrible description...
 

tcianci

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Feb 7, 2009
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Walpole, Ma
Those machines can be a real lifesaver. I have a MSC mill/drill. It's just another version of what you have, probably a little newer since the belt guard is moulded plastic. Clean it up and enjoy. Keep an eye out for a single phase motor as well, you may find one cheaper than the converter
 
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AussieDan

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Sep 18, 2008
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Syracuse, NY
Thanks for the tip tdkkart, I picked up a Teco FM50 (from factorymation, better pricing than dealers electric), and ordered new belts since the old ones were rotted.

Started to take things apart and assess the situation, but haven't had time to do any major cleaning yet, hopefully this weekend I'll be able to make a start on that as well as organizing the rest of the bits to wire it up.

Right now my plan is 20A 2-pole breaker, 12/2 to a switched 20a 240v duplex receptacle, then 12/3 cord to the VFD and 14/4 cord from the VFD to the motor.

For control I'm planning to use a project box with a toggle switch for fwd/off/reverse & a pot for speed control. I may also add an emergency stop switch as an added protection.
 

RobSmith

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Feb 5, 2009
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Nice bit of gear....Just buy another motor (240v) for it and you're laughing. The VFD might cost a bit more than a new motor but I'm guessing that there are a couple of pulleys under that top cover to provide the speed changes. It might cost a bit more but $500 bucks for that is pretty good. I wouldn't mind it if I had the room.
 
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Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
Nice score - the vice is worth nearly that much alone. A little TLC and good to go. With a 2Hp 3 phase motor, you can drill a hell of a hole in something.

Nice score but do you have 3phase power in your shop?

He can use a 2HP or 3HP VFD. Just know that the VFD has to control the motor directly and can not feed into any mill controls. you can't treat the VFD like a wall plug. The mill control switch(s) will need to operate inputs on the VFD and some VFD programming to do those functions is required. Once you get a handle on it, 3 phase motor control through a VFD will make you want to convert everything in the shop to 3 phase+VFD. Only thing I don't see that I would add is an Emergency Stop. With a VFD you can set an E-stop to stop the spindle in less than .5 seconds. You can also do power tapping with a 3 phase motor because it's capable of almost instant reverse. Try either of those on 120 or 240 single. Since it's a frequency drive, you can tweak the freq (lololol) and have some variable speeds around the fixed pulley speeds.

>Just buy another motor (240v)
No way - stick with the 3!
 
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tdkkart

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Right now my plan is 20A 2-pole breaker, 12/2 to a switched 20a 240v duplex receptacle, then 12/3 cord to the VFD and 14/4 cord from the VFD to the motor.

For control I'm planning to use a project box with a toggle switch for fwd/off/reverse & a pot for speed control. I may also add an emergency stop switch as an added protection.


This is essentially what I've just done with the lathe below, cord from the outlet to a disconnect box to the VFD to the motor. I used the drum switch in it's original location and wired it to control the low voltage forward/reverse inputs.
For now I am running the motor at full speed and using the lathe's original vari-speed.
VFD's just work so slick for this kind of stuff, I've been using one on my mill for more than 10 years, no issues

ebayclausing.JPG

Yes I know, I need to put up a pic without the key in the chuck
 

Falcon67

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How I wired mine in the old shop - same thing when I get the new space ready. Wire on the left out of the 4" box is motor power, cable on right is control wiring. Because I'm ****, I welded a steel spacer to separate the control from the power.
G0519_VFD.jpg
 

bobadame

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Dec 26, 2007
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You might want to re- mount that vise 90 degrees to the way it is now so you can use more of the machine's y axis travel. Probably remove the swivel base too.
 
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AussieDan

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Sep 18, 2008
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Syracuse, NY
Thanks for the pics and suggestions guys!

Made some headway today, the 20a 240v outlet is wired up and ready to go, I mounted it in a 2-gang box with a double-pole switch so I can easily kill input power to the VFD if needed.

Next on the list was stripping off the original drum switch & old wiring. The drum switch is a nice old piece of gear (and will go "into stock") but the wiring had deteriorated to the point where the insulation was cracking off, pretty scary to think it was in use like that...

My plan is to make a "control panel" in a 5x3x2" aluminum enclosure, with an emergency stop mushroom switch, a 10k pot for speed control and a 3-position rotary fwd/off/rev switch. I have the box and the pot, just waiting on the other 2 switches to arrive.

On the FM50 the e-stop is done by closing a circuit, which is a little odd. The stop switch I ordered has both NO and NC contacts, so I was thinking I'd wire the NO contacts to the e-stop terminal and the NC contacts in series with the fwd/off/rev switch, that way pushing the stop button will break the regular fwd/rev circuit at the same time as closing the e-stop circuit.

Falcon67, neat solution to the problem of needing somewhere to terminate the flex cabling to from the VFD to the control box and motor. I'm planning to use 18/8 security wire for the control panel, so that will really just need strain relief since I wasn't planning on putting it in a sheath.

For the motor wiring I have 4 12ga thhn wires and was going to run them in metallic liquidtight flex conduit to shield against interference but obviously that will require somewhere to terminate the flex.
 
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AussieDan

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Sep 18, 2008
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298
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Syracuse, NY
Ran the mill for the first time this weekend after finishing the wiring and putting on the new belts! There is a fair bit of play in the x-axis that I'm going to have to deal with, but it works and at the very least functions as a big drill press.

IMAG0104.jpgIMAG0105.jpg

The VFD is working perfectly, so glad that I went that way instead of swapping in a single phase motor. The soft start/stop and continuous speed adjustment are great.

IMAG0106.jpg
 

ddawg16

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Jul 11, 2008
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S. California
Nice score.....the x-y table alone is worth the $500.

It's one of those things that once you have it....you wonder how you did without....

If you don't mind me asking...what did you pay for the VFD? I'm keeping my eyes open for a compressor.....seems to be that 3ph is more common than single ph 240
 
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AussieDan

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Syracuse, NY
I got the VFD from factorymation, after shipping they were cheaper than dealerselectric.

If you're thinking about a compressor though, a 5hp drive is going to run ~$350 so they start to not make as much sense.
 
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