Hi, I would like to hear from different members how there solvent based Rustoleum Epoxy Shield has been holding up to use. I really want to know how well this epoxy holds up to scratching and chipping from the "normal" work in a home shop. Like steel wheeled floor jacks, jack stands, and dropped tools. I am wanting to do my newer shop floor and this is seems to be the product that best fits my budget. I plan to follow all the great info here for prepping the floor but want some feedback of how well others floors are doing. For what its worth, I am not planning on using the chips just the straight color of the paint. I think I will do 2 coats though. Thanks
How's Rustoleum Epoxy Shield holding up?
- Thread starter gregs
- Start date
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Mine's been holding up to welding/torching/plasma/chopsaw/grinder/vehicle/oil/etc. for 5 years now. I'm pretty sure I don't even have a chip on the floor, and i've dropped crowbars and stuff on it. My garage floor was 50 years old and covered with oil stains, too. It has a few yellow areas from oil staying on it for a long time, that's it.
Prep, prep, prep, prep.
My garage is 20x24, I spent 13 hours, 6 gallons of purple power, 2 boxes of tri-sodium phosphate, muriatic acid, 1800 p.s.i. pressure washer with 110* water, and a STIFF bristled broom.
I didn't use the flakes either, but I did sprinkle light sand on top of the first coat, then covered with the second coat. It sweeps and mops easily still, but you don't kill yourself if it has oil or water on it.
Prep, prep, prep, prep.
My garage is 20x24, I spent 13 hours, 6 gallons of purple power, 2 boxes of tri-sodium phosphate, muriatic acid, 1800 p.s.i. pressure washer with 110* water, and a STIFF bristled broom.
I didn't use the flakes either, but I did sprinkle light sand on top of the first coat, then covered with the second coat. It sweeps and mops easily still, but you don't kill yourself if it has oil or water on it.
boiler7904
Well-known member
I've had that product in Tile Red down on my floor for about 16 months. There are two color coats with flakes and a clear top coat. Still looks good. The top coat will scratch leaving a white mark when you slide things across it. I use my garage for woodworking and home improvement stuff. I put loose vinyl tiles under saw horse legs and the like to prevent scratches. Like Nissan Crawler said, prep is the key to getting good results. I'd do my floor again with the product but I choose one of the two gray colors instead.
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
the gray thing...I got the light gray, and it is fairly dark, really. I think the dark grey would soak up too much light, IMHO.
NeedsXtraspace
Member
Mine is holding up great. I applied two coats and the clear coat on top. 
Mine is holding up pretty well after a year. It resists scratching and scuffing VERY well. I drag my shifter kart stand with metal legs and a 200lb kart on it with no ill effects.
The only place it is letting me down is under the rear tires of my car. I drive an S2000 with really sticky Bridgstone Pole Position tires. They have pulled up some of the epoxy. FWIW, none has come up the GF's Accord that sits next to it. Im guessing it is the soft compound tire as much as anything.
Full disclosure: My garage is 40 years old and had been totally naked until I bought the house last year. Lots of oil spots and chips. I did my best to clean it up, but I am only one man =) I only have one coat down as well. I plan to re-do it next summer with two coats and a clear over top.
The only place it is letting me down is under the rear tires of my car. I drive an S2000 with really sticky Bridgstone Pole Position tires. They have pulled up some of the epoxy. FWIW, none has come up the GF's Accord that sits next to it. Im guessing it is the soft compound tire as much as anything.
Full disclosure: My garage is 40 years old and had been totally naked until I bought the house last year. Lots of oil spots and chips. I did my best to clean it up, but I am only one man =) I only have one coat down as well. I plan to re-do it next summer with two coats and a clear over top.
ScaldedDog
Well-known member
What would need to be done to a new concrete floor to use this product successfully? If there's a "prep thread" around here, just point me in the right direction...
Another newbie question: Is the purpose of the flakes to make it less slick? For those of you that have them, are small parts hard to find when dropped on the floor? My eyes aren't getting any younger...
Thanks,
Mark
Another newbie question: Is the purpose of the flakes to make it less slick? For those of you that have them, are small parts hard to find when dropped on the floor? My eyes aren't getting any younger...
Thanks,
Mark
boiler7904
Well-known member
What would need to be done to a new concrete floor to use this product successfully? If there's a "prep thread" around here, just point me in the right direction...
Another newbie question: Is the purpose of the flakes to make it less slick? For those of you that have them, are small parts hard to find when dropped on the floor? My eyes aren't getting any younger...
Thanks,
Mark
Here's a really good write up on applying Rust Oleum Pro:
383 S-10's Rust Oleum Pro Write Up
I followed this with no problems except one. The epoxy soaks through standard painters tape making it nearly impossible to remove. I learned afterward that duct tape is better for masking epoxy. All but a couple of little pieces have been removed or worn away. The ones that remain are on the stem wall and will eventually get ground down or painted over. Live and learn.
Flakes will add some texture but not enough to keep you from slipping around. I added a package of the anti-slip material to the second color coat I put down. Putting the clear over that took away a lot of the "bite" of the anti-slip. You can tell it's there but I have to be careful when there is standing water or ice on the floor.
As far as finding small parts, that will depend on the color you pick. I have dark red and it's not fun to try and find small pieces that inevitably fall on the floor. I'd go with the tan or light gray if I was you.
FL_Javelin
Well-known member
16 months and looks great. Light grey with flakes, no clear coat. No tire pullups, no chipping and Ive dropped stuff on it. See below for write up.
And you MUST do 2 coats IMO. As said, prep is everything.
And you MUST do 2 coats IMO. As said, prep is everything.
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thundercow
Well-known member
I recently encountered a failure of a bargain 2-part epoxy system. See this article on bargain epoxy failure--the pictures tell the tale. I am NOT saying that this is R E/S, I don't want to get sued! I am just saying that it is a major brand available at a popular home center:
No big deal though, the homeowner got 2.5 or 3 years out of it. We ground it off in half a day and pimped him out with a new floor. Not a big deal.
http://www.garageandstorageplus.com/bargain_epoxy_failure.htm
Oh, and of course, the condition of the concrete and the method and diligence in preparation may have more to do with failure than the brand of coating.
No big deal though, the homeowner got 2.5 or 3 years out of it. We ground it off in half a day and pimped him out with a new floor. Not a big deal.
http://www.garageandstorageplus.com/bargain_epoxy_failure.htm
Oh, and of course, the condition of the concrete and the method and diligence in preparation may have more to do with failure than the brand of coating.
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nissan_crawler
Well-known member
EH, that "failure" sounds like hogwash to me. It doesn't matter how good the product is if it's installed like ****. If it sticks to my 50 year old old stained concrete floor through welding and fabricating, and parking a vehicle in it every day, I have to reason that the only failure is the home owner, not the product.
musgofasta
Well-known member
I've got the water-based HomeDepot Epoxy Shield, and I'm super happy with it.
I only did one coat, and then the clear. It's not quite as even as I want, but that's about it. Some weld burns in the clear from sparks, but no scrapes or gouges. Next garage will definitely be two color coats.
I did spill some paint that I can't seem to get off it though. If anyone knows anything that lifts paint but not the epoxy, let me know.
I only did one coat, and then the clear. It's not quite as even as I want, but that's about it. Some weld burns in the clear from sparks, but no scrapes or gouges. Next garage will definitely be two color coats.
I did spill some paint that I can't seem to get off it though. If anyone knows anything that lifts paint but not the epoxy, let me know.
comp
Well-known member
any pics ??
FL_Javelin
Well-known member
comp
Well-known member
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet 
thundercow
Well-known member
Hogwash? Well I wasn't there when he put it in. Even so, as a pro installer, I'll tell you all that preparation is crucial to having a long lasting installation.
Don't forget, it might be the concrete as well, all concrete is different. Some people get lucky, some people don't. One can eliminate the risks of bad concrete with good preparation and quality coatings.
Don't forget, it might be the concrete as well, all concrete is different. Some people get lucky, some people don't. One can eliminate the risks of bad concrete with good preparation and quality coatings.
nonhog
Well-known member
I know my garage concrete has moisture issues , leave anything on the floor and you'll see moisture underneath . So is there any chance for me ? Or don't bother ? I do plan on eliminating some of the moisture source thru drainage but I can only fix what I can see and reach .
Whatd'ya think ?
I tried the Rustoleum 2 years ago, I followed the instructions and even used muratic acid to clean the floor. The floor was only 1 year old with no visible problems. After 6 months the flooring started flaking up where my wife parks. After contacting Rustoleum they paid for the materials and sent me instructions on sanding and re-applying. That one lasted about 8 months and started flaking and now the concrete is pitted.
No thanks to anymore epoxy, I am going with Motofloor this summer.
Greg
No thanks to anymore epoxy, I am going with Motofloor this summer.
Greg
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Its a shame but you are the classic example of why sometimes it worth paying a little more up front by using a real pro.
After all that money,time, effort and aggrevation your now gonna spend more money on a mod floor to cover it up. Unfortunately your not the first and you definately wont be the last.
Your situation gives epoxy and floor coatings a bad name and puts it in a bad light.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
I currently have a system for basements and moister sensitive concrete. I experimented with it 2 years ago on an old 1800's remodeled home on the bay in Greenwich Ct. While prepping, it began to pour and water was seeping up through the slab. I was shipped a special primer (at the time still in the experimental stage) from one of my manufacturers, I basically told my client that its either we experiment with no warranty or nothing.
I was just contracted by this client 2 months ago to do more work, coving and his basement. The garage floor looked as good as the day we installed it.
Find an installer who can work or has the right product for moister sensitive concrete.
thundercow
Well-known member
I'd say that the short answer is "no". The killers for adheshion are moisture and smoothness. Smoothness can be rectified by grinding or by the less desireable method of acid-etching.
It sounds like you have serious moisture problems. Modern homes typically have a vapor barrier installed under the concrete, so the garage concrete stays nice and dry. The test we use is to tape a piece of clear plastic to the concrete. After one day, if moisture appears under the plastic, then the concrete is "breathing" moisture vapor. Epoxy can't stay long with moisture vapor pushing against the concrete/epoxy bond. The coating will fail.
If you can solve the moisture issue with some sort of drainage issue, and then retest, I think a non-porous coating such as epoxy is possible.
You could, however, acid-stain (withOUT a clear coat) because acid stain is porous, the concrete will still breathe.
It sounds like you have serious moisture problems. Modern homes typically have a vapor barrier installed under the concrete, so the garage concrete stays nice and dry. The test we use is to tape a piece of clear plastic to the concrete. After one day, if moisture appears under the plastic, then the concrete is "breathing" moisture vapor. Epoxy can't stay long with moisture vapor pushing against the concrete/epoxy bond. The coating will fail.
If you can solve the moisture issue with some sort of drainage issue, and then retest, I think a non-porous coating such as epoxy is possible.
You could, however, acid-stain (withOUT a clear coat) because acid stain is porous, the concrete will still breathe.
Jabberwalk
Well-known member
You could dye and polish the floor. The floor with "breath" and no coatings to fail. This floor had tons of oils stains so the only hope was to dye it black to hide the stains.
Just be aware it will be no more resistant to chemicals than a regular concrete floor. It will be much easier to clean, not dust, and look pretty nice.
Jaytree
Well-known member
You could dye and polish the floor. The floor with "breath" and no coatings to fail. This floor had tons of oils stains so the only hope was to dye it black to hide the stains.
Just be aware it will be no more resistant to chemicals than a regular concrete floor. It will be much easier to clean, not dust, and look pretty nice.
That floor is BADASS!!!
Same issue here. It held up fine and looked great for most of the year but then winter came and the snow/salt killed it. I always tried to kick most of the snow off before I pulled it in, and used a floor squeegee to push off the water and snow droppings. I think I'm going to try the vct tiles now and lay down some runners for next winter since I mostly use the garage for car detailing.
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kwb210
Well-known member
That floor is BADASS!!!
Wow! never seen a black garage floor, way cool. If you had enough light i suppose it would work. Seeing it gives me some ideas. I am dividing my work area into 2 different areas and really like the black. My work area will probably be fairly light but the parking area could go black.
Excellent!
I assume you are going to media blast the Rustoleum **** off?
thundercow
Well-known member
That black polished floor is cool.
Agreed: staining concrete is a great solution when moisture is an issue.
Agreed: staining concrete is a great solution when moisture is an issue.
NeedsXtraspace
Member
Update: So-so now see this post for more info...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48001
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48001