HS 1000 epoxy?

[Sims5]

I'm gathering information in regards to epoxy coating my floor in my 60x96 new building. As of right now I leaning towards going with 2 coats of gray S-W HS1000 and 1 coat of ArmorSeal Rexthane top coating with no flakes. I will add some anti-skid.

Should I have the top coating tinted gray? I've heard that this will help stop the epoxy "Yellowing" where the sunlight hit is. I would like to do the floor this winter. How long would I have to keep the door open and off the floor? I'm concerned with the area outside the door, approximately 6" that will be exposed to the cold temps. Should I masked it off at the door and do the rest of the area once warmer temps arrive? Would you see a seam if I did this?

Any opinions on the HS1000 would be greatly appreciated. I have searched and read about everything I can get my hands on as I want to do this floor once and do it right.

 

[Shea]

I'm not too familiar with the SW products, but I believe that particular one is solvent based so you will want to be prepared to work safely with the fumes. If you went with a 100% solids product you wouldn't have to worry about VOC's and you would have a thicker dry film thickness as well.

Remember when applying epoxy in the winter that the surface floor temp is the most critical, not the ambient air temperature. Areas around vents, doors, and walls can be colder than the main floor. I would recommend stopping the coating at the door as well. If you go out the door it will eventually discolor and create an odd look when the door is up.

Most tinted urethanes are very resistant to yellowing.

 

[Sims5]

I do have radiant floor heat so the floor temp will be at least 58*. I'm not sure I understand your statement. You said to stop at the door due to eventual discoloring but then you said that most tinted urethane are very resistant to yellowing.

Can you recommend a 100% solids product, one with low VOC's.

Thanks

 

[Shea]

but then you said that most tinted urethane are very resistant to yellowing

That is correct. For an indoor environment like a garage that sees the occasional sunlight from time to time, they are very resistant to yellowing, particularly when compared to epoxy. However, urethanes are not yellow proof and will eventually yellow if exposed to an outside environment for a length of time.

There are many vendors here who sell 100% solids epoxy. Legacy Industrial, Epoxy-Coat, Wolverine, and Garage Flooring LLC to name a few off the top of my head. There are other companies outside this forum as well. I suggest doing a search here about the topic to learn some more and I'm sure some of the vendors will jump in to talk to you when they see this thread.

 

[Sims5]

Thank you Shea for the info.

 

[NitroShark]

www.tnemec.com

I don't have a dog in the fight, as I'm not a vendor but a normal DIY guy (engineer)



Here is the 100% solids system I used. You can just omit the flecks, this system has been out at least since 2007 that I know of.

The system I used as follows:
1) Concrete Floors (Shop and Machine Area) (Decorative Flake Floor)

Surface Preparation: ICRI-CSP3. This is the scarification of the concrete to remove all poorly adhered laitance on the surface of the concrete and to provide a surface profile (I used a 7inch hand diamond grinder above). The floor was clean and dry prior to coating. Filled all control joints with Series 215 Surfacing Epoxy.

1st Coat: Series 201 Epoxoprime applied at – 12.0 dry mils
2nd Coat: Series 237 Power-Tread in 33GR Gray applied at 12.0 dry mils. While the coating is wet, broadcast random decorative flakes into the wet coating. (20 lbs)
3rd Coat: Series 284 Deco-Clear applied at 12.0 dry mils
4th Coat: Series 248 Everthane clear applied at 2.0 – 3. Dry mils

The application guide can be found here > http://www.tnemec.com/product/stratashield/ You can get data sheets for coverage also.

Since this is an industrial/professional product and not marketed for residential use, you will have to purchase it from their distribution network.


Shawn

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I'm gathering information in regards to epoxy coating my floor in my 60x96 new building. As of right now I leaning towards going with 2 coats of gray S-W HS1000 and 1 coat of ArmorSeal Rexthane top coating with no flakes. I will add some anti-skid.

Should I have the top coating tinted gray? I've heard that this will help stop the epoxy "Yellowing" where the sunlight hit is. I would like to do the floor this winter. How long would I have to keep the door open and off the floor? I'm concerned with the area outside the door, approximately 6" that will be exposed to the cold temps. Should I masked it off at the door and do the rest of the area once warmer temps arrive? Would you see a seam if I did this?

Any opinions on the HS1000 would be greatly appreciated. I have searched and read about everything I can get my hands on as I want to do this floor once and do it right.

Be careful using an aliphatic urethane with no ventilation.
The smell will knock you out, literally.

Even with the door down your coatings near the door will take longer to cure. The cold will creep in through the slab at the door.