The viscosity of an antifreeze mixture is higher than straight water, so the pump load increases. Small passa in the water heater have to accomodate the higher viscosity too, so pay attentio to what the heater manufacturer says.I mean there are other reasons to run anti-freeze, like corrosion protection, for example. But also the overall "efficiency" of the system really won't change much. Especially when you consider that the plastic pipe that' surrounding your water is a terrible thermal conductor, as is the concrete/wood/whatever the pipe is inside of.
For your type of system, really the only thing that would happen with an anti-freeze/water mixture is that at a given power input (say 10kW), the boiler outlet temperature would be slightly higher. On in other words, to maintain a certain temperature in the space with a given outdoor temperature, the water loop temperature would need to be slightly higher.
However, the total amount of energy going in/out of the system is still the same. A gas condensing boiler would have a small efficiency penalty with a higher loop temperature, but an electric boiler will not. So in your case, there really should be no consequence at all to adding anti-freeze.
Compressed air to blow it out, followed by antifreeze to dilute any residual water. The system will have both drain and fill valves if designed properly.In these radiant floor systems, is there a method to purge the tubing of liquid, if it were to become necessary?
FYI Boiler antifreeze has to minimum 30% mix for the protection package, with max 50%. Propylene glycol protection package does lose its protection when this happens it can go from good to bad in a short time when that happens the fluid turns acidic.I mean there are other reasons to run anti-freeze, like corrosion protection, for example. But also the overall "efficiency" of the system really won't change much. Especially when you consider that the plastic pipe that' surrounding your water is a terrible thermal conductor, as is the concrete/wood/whatever the pipe is inside of.
For your type of system, really the only thing that would happen with an anti-freeze/water mixture is that at a given power input (say 10kW), the boiler outlet temperature would be slightly higher. On in other words, to maintain a certain temperature in the space with a given outdoor temperature, the water loop temperature would need to be slightly higher.
However, the total amount of energy going in/out of the system is still the same. A gas condensing boiler would have a small efficiency penalty with a higher loop temperature, but an electric boiler will not. So in your case, there really should be no consequence at all to adding anti-freeze.
With this system you won't see a air removel devise because it's a open system. The water gets pumped out of a open tank through the heat loop any air is released when the water gets back to the tank. Water is circulating from tank through boiler back to tank. Post 28 has some pics if you missed them.In these radiant floor systems, is there a method to purge the tubing of liquid, if it were to become necessary?