idoitproject
Well-known member
Harbor Freight makes the middle design breaker bar. It sells for $10.99 I think, when on sale $7.99. For the price...buy 2-3.
HUGE breaker bars. Suggestions?
- Thread starter Damian
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GoBlue
Well-known member
I have had great service from my Craftsman BB's. I had a 400 lb co worker jump on one like a diving board to break loose a lug from a C60. Didn't faze the breaker. Mine are all newer
plinker
Well-known member
I've got a Toptul 40" 3/4 drive breaker bar (same as the Titan I think, looks the same, Taiwan coo) looks like the one in the middle pic posted earlier.
So far I've had no issues with it. Very handy to have for the extra leverage.
The newer Craftsman ones are very poor IMO.
So far I've had no issues with it. Very handy to have for the extra leverage.
The newer Craftsman ones are very poor IMO.
byoungblood
Well-known member
I have a 60s-70s vintage 3/4" drive Thorsen sliding bar that I use when I need something big. It is about 25" on its own, and I have another ~2' of pipe that fits over it nicely.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
What I have found, SO makes one strong breaker bar. That said, SO dual 80 and Matco's 24" 1/2" ratchets are damn strong. Matco has a new 30" 1/2" breaker bar with a new head design that so far has proved stronger then my Matco 24" breaker bar. If you have room to step up to 3/4", Matco has a nice 36" breaker bar that is a massive hunk of iron. I understand the need for strengh and use 3/4" when ever it is need, but I also run into many jobs where 3/4" drive tools do not fit, in situations like that, the best thing I have found is have a lot of 1/2" ratchets and breaker bars, one will take it off. One other thing, if you jump into the world of 3/4", buy sockets, using adaptor will do nothing but break adaptor after adaptor.
Zebu Fellenz
Well-known member
I have the 24" SO breaker bar and have never broken it, when I need something heavier I grab a 3/4" drive bull bar and slide the required length of pipe on.
diesel research
Well-known member
Local northern now carries the G.R.I.P. breaker next to the titan 40". Now I fully understand why the titan cost more. It has a head actually machined to the correct size, fitting the handle. The GRIP does not, and uses a lockwasher to fill the 1/4" gap.
Regardless where the SO low profile fits, when the going gets tough, it is more likely to call it quits. If it is the "only" thing that fits, well I guess the cost can be offset when it comes time to replace it.
My main 24" (have 3) is actually not a HF. It looks similar, but instead of a chrome head, it has an impact type CRMO black oxide head. It (handle) flexes less than the HF. It was actually purchased as a temporary tool to pick up where the snap on left off, but ended up surpassing all expectations. Providing both fit, if I had none and someone offered to lend me either one at no cost, I would still choose it. Now if they were giving me one, I would probably have to take the SO to resale, purchase the ampro, and spend the rest on something else.
Regardless where the SO low profile fits, when the going gets tough, it is more likely to call it quits. If it is the "only" thing that fits, well I guess the cost can be offset when it comes time to replace it.
My main 24" (have 3) is actually not a HF. It looks similar, but instead of a chrome head, it has an impact type CRMO black oxide head. It (handle) flexes less than the HF. It was actually purchased as a temporary tool to pick up where the snap on left off, but ended up surpassing all expectations. Providing both fit, if I had none and someone offered to lend me either one at no cost, I would still choose it. Now if they were giving me one, I would probably have to take the SO to resale, purchase the ampro, and spend the rest on something else.
1984Datsun
Well-known member
3/4 inch... I've got an old 3/4" drive ratchet and breaker bar set... I forget what brand but it was made in the US IIRC. Haven't used it yet, but I doubt I'll ever break the stuff.
As for 1/2" drive, I've used my 'skinny' fork type, which is a US made Craftsman, and have broken crank bolts loose with no problem, even with a cheater bar to make it a 4+ foot breaker bar.
I also have an old Craftsman breaker bar like the last one pictured in the other post.
Those, however, were not red loctite bolts that I was using them on...
I say that red loctite needs to be removed from the shelves at stores... keep idiots from welding **** together with it...
If something is supposed to be welded, use a welder, not red loctite...
I've even seen that **** on brake caliper bolts... talk about a PITA...
One shop that I know of does not use loctite on bolts, period. They clean the threads up on the wire wheel (replace worn/pitted bolts if there are any) and run a tap through the threads on the part(s), then torque them down to the proper spec. It works and will hold.
I only use loctite on parts that are expressly specified for the use of loctite, which depending on the manufacturer can be anything from suspension and brake system bolts to engine bolts. But if the manufacturer didn't put loctite on it, then I won't.
Or somtimes on very critical suspension parts... as in control arm to frame bolts. You do not want those coming apart at 70+ mph on the highway. Even then I would only use blue...
As for 1/2" drive, I've used my 'skinny' fork type, which is a US made Craftsman, and have broken crank bolts loose with no problem, even with a cheater bar to make it a 4+ foot breaker bar.
I also have an old Craftsman breaker bar like the last one pictured in the other post.
Those, however, were not red loctite bolts that I was using them on...
I say that red loctite needs to be removed from the shelves at stores... keep idiots from welding **** together with it...
If something is supposed to be welded, use a welder, not red loctite...
I've even seen that **** on brake caliper bolts... talk about a PITA...
One shop that I know of does not use loctite on bolts, period. They clean the threads up on the wire wheel (replace worn/pitted bolts if there are any) and run a tap through the threads on the part(s), then torque them down to the proper spec. It works and will hold.
I only use loctite on parts that are expressly specified for the use of loctite, which depending on the manufacturer can be anything from suspension and brake system bolts to engine bolts. But if the manufacturer didn't put loctite on it, then I won't.
Or somtimes on very critical suspension parts... as in control arm to frame bolts. You do not want those coming apart at 70+ mph on the highway. Even then I would only use blue...
I was in a hurry last night at Northern Tool, didn't stop to measure, but they had some massive, thick breaker bars that looked like they were at least 4 feet long, if not 4.5. I assume they were 3/4" drive, but now I'm not sure they weren't even bigger drive than that (1"?).
diesel research
Well-known member
Depending on the store, one is a $80 titan, other is a $40 grand rapids industrial.
Jeeper
Well-known member
Does anyone know why 3/4" breaker bars are shorter than the 1/2" ones? Is it just because that is what the market asks for?
shampoop
Well-known member
GoBlue
Well-known member
holy toledo!
Jeeper
Well-known member
The titan is one of the few. Looks like most of the official tool makers don't make longer breaker bars.
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I have a 24" SK breaker bar, and I'm quite happy with it. The thing is a beast.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062LNXK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Another thing I've found that works really well for breaking stubborn **** free is actually to put a wrench on it and bang the wrench with a BFH. The wrench is so stiff that it transfers all of the force into the bolt.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062LNXK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Another thing I've found that works really well for breaking stubborn **** free is actually to put a wrench on it and bang the wrench with a BFH. The wrench is so stiff that it transfers all of the force into the bolt.
skipskip
Well-known member
How did you keep the engine from turning while you cranked on the bar?
Skip
Skip
diesel research
Well-known member
Depends on the vehicle model. On mine, I just remove the rubber plug from bellhousing adapter, insert special socket that engages flexplate, and use a second breaker wedged against a solid object
Other less fortunate engines may require a variety of make shift methods wedged against flywheel/flex plate, may use a belt or chain on pulley, or might place standard transmission in gear.
It might even be possible to use a piston stop, but that would probably be my absolute last resort.
_____________________________
I've never tried this (intentionally) but almost broke my arm doing this accidentally.
I was doing a leakdown test and accidentally had the piston a little bit off from top dead center. Crank offset slightly one way or the other. Breaker bar to hold crank in place. Hit the cylinder with 100psi and bam! that crank spun hard and fast. Seems that a 4" bore with 100psi has a bit over 1,000lbs of force pressing on it. Right at top dead center the crank doesn't rotate. Even a few degress off in either direction, and it does so with great force. Might be possible to manipulate that force to ones advantage. I'd never do it if I was holding the breaker, but if the breaker was resting on a bottle jack I might (only if no other choices exist) Some compressed air pushing one way, some hydraulic pressure pushing the other way, something is gonna break free...
KyleQ
Well-known member
Interesting - I've bounced as hard as I could on my father's 18" SO breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe on occasion. His breaker bar is ~30 years old though...
I stopped using a breaker bar when my brother bought a 36" 1/2 ratchet. Now that thing is awesome
I stopped using a breaker bar when my brother bought a 36" 1/2 ratchet. Now that thing is awesome
retDAC
Well-known member
Who makes that?Interesting - I've bounced as hard as I could on my father's 18" SO breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe on occasion. His breaker bar is ~30 years old though...
I stopped using a breaker bar when my brother bought a 36" 1/2 ratchet. Now that thing is awesome
Greatbear
Well-known member
Not my wreckage, but this happened to an unfortunate soul who did just that.
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New member
Auto Zone has a nice duralast breaker bar. With lifetime warranty.
sicnarf247
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2015
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- 44
gotta say.. i love that 1 inch wright breaker bar you got there. i have to ask what do you use it for?
i was checking out 3/4 bb but now i think im going to have to go with the 1 in.
im working on tight diesel connections/hoses. hm i dont even know if they have crowsfeet for 1 in drive stuff...
abvw
Well-known member
When the 2135TI fails, the Fuel may have a chance.
When the Fuel fails, this behemoth comes out.
Snap-on SN36 vs regular 24" ratcheting China bar
https://scontent-iad3-1.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/t31.0-8/11233002_10204207166252985_3039642105779370018_o.jpg
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When the Fuel fails, this behemoth comes out.
Snap-on SN36 vs regular 24" ratcheting China bar
https://scontent-iad3-1.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/t31.0-8/11233002_10204207166252985_3039642105779370018_o.jpg
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cleason
Well-known member
so 3/4 drive 36" of solid steel, strong enough to put cheater bar on
619DioFan
Well-known member
I have the titan tools inch drive breaker bar ( 40 '' long )and a impact grade adapter to use 3/4 drive sockets with it. I believe the bar is rated for 2000 lbs of torque. with my 270 lb body on the end I haven't met a fastener yet that did not submit.
Off-Street Parking
Well-known member
four.cycle
Well-known member
I can fix anything said:
^ Wright
1" drive - 26" length
on sale
$85 incl. shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wright-Tool...:g:DDsAAOSw1S9Wbxzb&item=181898152457&vxp=mtr
here's the story on the 3/4" Wright stuff I gave to a buddy of mine (in case you have any doubts): http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5234900#post5234900
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sqaurelizard
Well-known member
not very safe using impact adapters on a long breaker , caused myself a pretty nasty shoulder injury when one basically exploded under load rather than yielding like a non impact would
kctyphoon
Banned
Tekton 40" by 3/4" - $40
TEKTON 15359 3/4-Inch Drive by 40-Inch Breaker Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXUPHTW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
TEKTON 15359 3/4-Inch Drive by 40-Inch Breaker Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXUPHTW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
bcradio
Well-known member
What I use
shockwave
Well-known member
I got the big 36 snap on for Honda since head is stronger more like 3/4 design anything bigger got for a 3/4 breaker bar with adapters
Dave455
Well-known member
I must admit that I have that big 36 inch Snap On bar too. Got it when they were on special a year ago! Superbly designed tool. Not just functional, but stlyish too. Although it's a new design, it's very much in the Snap On tradition! I love the way they've extended the handle area to keep the whole thing in proportion!
Having said all that, anything above 250 ibs/ft is getting beyond what's reasonable for 1/2 inch drive. I havn't had to deal with 'em myself yet, but I've heard about these particular bolts. Don't know if there's room, but sounds like a candidate for 3/4 drive to me!
If you've never tried it, 3/4 drive isn't just stronger, it's also stiffer. This is why you can sometimes break loose a tough bolt with a 3/4 18 inch T bar, when a 1/2 inch breaker bar of the same length won't shift it!
For real tough cases I have a 1 inch drive 36 inch breaker bar. It was originally Britiish military issue, and comes in it's own metal box in two pieces, complete with a 3/4 reducer AND a 24 inch extension handle! God knows what it was originally for!
I have to say though, that buying used is the way to go with this larger stuff! With these tools, even the cost of good quality steel becomes a factor, so new stuff is expensive! But buying secondhand is a good bet. If stuff has only had hand use you're going some to 'wear out' a 3 inch socket and the breaker bar to match, so don't worry if you're the third owner of some World War Two vintage tools - they'll still be good!
Having said all that, anything above 250 ibs/ft is getting beyond what's reasonable for 1/2 inch drive. I havn't had to deal with 'em myself yet, but I've heard about these particular bolts. Don't know if there's room, but sounds like a candidate for 3/4 drive to me!
If you've never tried it, 3/4 drive isn't just stronger, it's also stiffer. This is why you can sometimes break loose a tough bolt with a 3/4 18 inch T bar, when a 1/2 inch breaker bar of the same length won't shift it!
For real tough cases I have a 1 inch drive 36 inch breaker bar. It was originally Britiish military issue, and comes in it's own metal box in two pieces, complete with a 3/4 reducer AND a 24 inch extension handle! God knows what it was originally for!
I have to say though, that buying used is the way to go with this larger stuff! With these tools, even the cost of good quality steel becomes a factor, so new stuff is expensive! But buying secondhand is a good bet. If stuff has only had hand use you're going some to 'wear out' a 3 inch socket and the breaker bar to match, so don't worry if you're the third owner of some World War Two vintage tools - they'll still be good!
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ttpete
Well-known member
Torque multiplier. Bolt will either break loose or twist off.
I found an Armstrong and a Carlyle 1 inch drive breaker bars this week for $45 each in a pawn shop. But I use shorter USA Napa 1/2 inch drive or a longer handled generic foreign one with a ratcheting head. Professionally I wouldn't use the cheap one but it's nice for home use for lug nuts.
T_Roze
Well-known member
yossarian19
Well-known member
A cheap 3/4 drive is still a lot t more beef than a nice 1/2" breaker can bring. 3/4" HF ftw.
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