To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

humidity

ketas47

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
90
Location
Beaver Dam Wis
Just got done hooking up my boiler 2 days ago for infloor heat and everything is working well. The only problem i began to see is condensation on windows. It snowed today and vehicles dragged in some moisture. Is there some trick to eliminate the humidity without running a dehumidifier?. The garage is insulated very well and heating it to about 60 degrees , humidity 72 percent
Thanks for any input
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
You will need to get the humidity down to at least 50%, maybe lower, and a dehumidifier is the only way I know of doing it.
 

rwreuter

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
243
Location
Mulvane, Kansas
this humidity issue drives me crazy.....i don't understand how that 70% or even 80% is bad. now before everyone jumps on me, let me explain.

i currently live in kansas and before that i lived in south georgia and the humidity levels there in the summer were fricking crazy, 80%-90+%, all summer!

in kansas the humidity hovers around 80% at times, so why is it that we worry about the humidity that is put out by propane (not so much natural gas) heaters? to me, perhaps from my faulty logic 60% is not bad at all.

is the humidity from a propane heater different than the humidity that exists all summer long in a garage or a shop?


rob
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5
Location
West Olive, MI
Sounds like you have a new building?
When I built my industrial building many years ago, the first winter, I had water dripping from the steel beams. Everything was wet, and I thought I was in for real problems. After the first winter, I never had a problem again with it. All I can think of what happened was moisture was coming out of the concrete, maybe too much calcium chloride in the concrete when they poured the floor. I am not a concrete guy, so I am just guessing.
I have heard of other people with that problem the first year they built a building.
 

Jackfre

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,437
Location
N CA
The issue you are facing is humidity, yes, but more importantly dew-point. The temperature at which the humidity in the air condenses out of the air and onto any surface that look comfortable to the water. I'm not an authority (wow, did I just say that:)) on dew point without some refresher reading but that is the difference between GA and KN.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

olytdi

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
2,202
Location
Olympia, Washington
Dew point is it entirely. That's why your humidity is condensing in the winter at 70% but not at all in the summer.

If you're going to introduce moisture into your (closed system) garage or shop, you need to one of two things, raise the dew point or remove the moisture.

I have a similar but different problem with condensation on the concrete when we get a real balmy "pineapple express" blow through -- I've solved this dampness situation by doing two things: add heat (that does not produce an exhaust) and I built an exhaust fan out of duct, a duct fan, and a humidistat. When the humidity exceeds a level I set, the fan comes on and vents the air from about 1" off the floor. Cost me about $60 in materials and works well.

Dehumidifyers will produce better results but can be used efficiently only when it isn't cold...
 

6768rogues

Banned
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
4,524
Location
Western NY
I agree with using a ceiling fan. Moving air helps prevent condensation and will bring down warm air from the ceiling area. My floor stays much drier with a fan running.
 

matt151617

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2011
Messages
488
Location
New Jersey
I think the issue is the humidity outside vs inside. During the summer, there's equal high humidity both outside and inside. During the winter, the outside humidity is very low and the air is cold. The inside air has high humidity and is warm. When the warm humid air hits the walls/ceiling, which are cold/dry, it condenses. Then your wood gets wet, the insulation starts retaining moisture, and the problems begin with rot/mold.

So, the objective is to get the inside humidity low enough so it doesn't condense. With a non-drying heat system (something besides forced air), you'll have a harder time getting the humidity down initially. It'll eventually go down as the winter goes on, but the beginning of the heating season will have the worst time with humidity. Your best bet is either running some oscillating fans to help move the air around, or run a dehumidifier.
 
Last edited:

StaggeringGoat

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
758
Location
Oregon
Humidity is always a big issue in winter here, it's about 95%+ outside almost constantly. My shop naturally goes to about 70% and that's just too much - I don't notice water condensing on anything but I do see rust.

For a dehumidifier, I use an old 5000BTU window air conditioner set on top of a bucket. I moved the thermostat sensor to the back side of the A/C where it's always hot so it stays running. It's amazing how much water it can **** out of the air. Doesn't work until the heat hits about 49 degrees though, otherwise it just freezes up.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom