hurricane Impact Windows Help Please

[GEGU]

Hello everyone, I am new here and not sure where to park this thread.

I live in South Florida and am replacing all my windows with Dade rated hurricane impact windows and wanted to know what combo of features will give me the best bang for the buck. My main purpose is lowering traffic sound (busy 6-lane road) and my $300 electric bill.

I have read many threads recommending LowE, Argon, and a non-conductive frame. But when I ask a local rep he said I was going overboard. He wants to sell me PGT Windguard Aluminum clear glass with solarban 70XL, saying Argon and thermally broken aluminum are overkill.

What say you ?

Thanks in advance

 

[koditten]

If your present windows are single pane, then yes almost any double pane window will lower sound and utility bills.

 

[DangerousDan55]

We had double pane aluminium framed windows in our housed built in 2004. We live just outside of Houston TeXas. The window frames were very cold in the winter & the wife was cold all the time.
So, this year we replaced them with double pane vinal windows. Forgot what gas is used. I shot temp readins on the windows as the were half way through installing & there was a 5-8 degree temp differance between aluminum verse vinal. So we are happy with that result. We havent had a cold winter to speak of but there was a measured differance.
Now for sound my wife says she can tell a differance in sound. But I cant tell. We live in the country & I can still hear the neighbors 4x4 truck at 5am. But its so quiet out here, one does notice any noise.
You may notice some improvement in sound reduction, but in time your mind may recalibrate & you will again notice the noise. Just like when we first moved out here from town. So deadly quiet for a while, but now when I ourside I here motorcycles, trucks ect from a couple miles away.
I would go with the new windows for the energy savings & just realized that youR brain will recalibrate on the noise reduction.
Im still extreamly happy with our vinal windows.

 

[MushCreek]

What is the price difference on the various models? If a good window saves you $100 on your power bill, and a poor one saves you $75, how many months/years would it take to pay the difference?

I did a lot of research on windows for our new house in SC. What I learned is that there isn't much difference in performance between windows with similar specs, but cheap windows sag and warp and leak air pretty quickly. The specs of each window 5 years down the road are quite different. You want a quality window if you are going to stay there for the long haul.

As for the other features- I doubt you'll see much difference in your power bill with thermally broken aluminum and argon unless the rest of the house is very well insulated and sealed. Our old house in FL had no wall insulation, marginal R-19 in the attic, and leaky ductwork in the 130 degree attic. Upgrading the windows would have been about as effective as putting new curtains on the Titanic.

 

[Jinks]

Your local rep is mostly right. I did the same thing here in Central Fla. last year. PGT is generally the industry standard. Low "E" has a slight green tint, so drive around & look at other houses. The ones with slightly green windows have Low "E" windows. If that won't make your house look odd it might be worth it to limit fading in bright rooms. We elected to have three windows on the back of our house done with low "E" for direct morning light. The rest of the house has clear windows that still block most of the UV.

You will notice a slight improvement in sound at first, but become used to it quickly so the noise level just becomes natural. Thermally broken frames are overkill for South Fla. since you won't see enough cold for them to sweat. The big improvements from hurricane windows are storm protection, home security, better UV protection, & reduced noise, all included in PGT's standard window.

 

[GEGU]

Our old house in FL had no wall insulation, marginal R-19 in the attic, and leaky ductwork in the 130 degree attic. Upgrading the windows would have been about as effective as putting new curtains on the Titanic.

Same R-19 here with metal studs that don't have insulation. Definitely thinking about blowing some insulation up there and in between the walls next winter.

The big improvements from hurricane windows are storm protection, home security, better UV protection, & reduced noise, all included in PGT's standard window.

I agree but still undecided between the 5/16 and 7/16 window. My windows are a large 5x5 and 5x6 so I understand the 7/16 are better suited for the bigger windows, am I right or wrong?

Also if I get shutters, what Hurricane category should I put up the shutters over the impact window? I was thinking CAT 2 and higher, since the impact windows do shatter after all.

Here's the video I was getting my info from regarding the thermally broken aluminum and other features and materials

Many thanks for all your responses.

 

[dmlehmann]

I live in NC and have LowE windows. They came with the house so I don't much other than I was shocked by how efficient they appear to be. My cooling costs are far less than I anticipated for a house as large as mine. I really like them.

 

[Nowater]

I am in the Sarasota area and I went with double pane insulated windows to reduce noise, since I live next to a road. The noise reduction is a lot and worth the extra expense IMO. My windows are vinyl, and so won't pit or corrode or conduct heat excessively.

By the way, pull a permit so you can reap the benefit of reduced wind mitigation insurance premium. If you are in the area PM me if you are interested in a wind mitigation inspection which is needed for the reduced insurance cost.

 

[GEGU]

I live in NC and have LowE windows. They came with the house so I don't much other than I was shocked by how efficient they appear to be. My cooling costs are far less than I anticipated for a house as large as mine. I really like them.

Sounds good and thanks for your testimonial. I can stick my pinky in between the the middle of my sliding window so I am sure my bills will go down no matter what I get. LOL

 

[GEGU]

Update: I ordered the PGT Windguard Aluminum clear glass with solarban 70XL the seller initially suggested back in August 2015. Honestly my bill is still $250-ish per month so I have not seen the benefits from the Solarban other than it is 2-3% less humid in the house according to this tool.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013BKDO8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Total cost for the 6 windows + 1 bathroom was $5k. Last month one of the sashes developed a 3" hairline fracture and PGT came to replace it in less than a month.

 

[larry4406]

Ouch! $5k later and no benefit other than a light wallet?!

 

[over40pirate]

Update: I ordered the PGT Windguard Aluminum clear glass with solarban 70XL the seller initially suggested back in August 2015. Honestly my bill is still $250-ish per month so I have not seen the benefits from the Solarban other than it is 2-3% less humid in the house according to this tool.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013BKDO8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Total cost for the 6 windows + 1 bathroom was $5k. Last month one of the sashes developed a 3" hairline fracture and PGT came to replace it in less than a month.

Just curious, as to how many sq ft your house is, with a $250 elec bill. And what town or county. Is $250 for the hottest month?

 

[mburrus]

where in south florida are you? i am in miami near the gables...

my bill is 100-200 depending on month, and i have a small house with old windows. best thing i did to save money was to install a smart thermostat... went with a honeywell wifi unit, works great!

 

[CTyankee]

Very late to the party, kuddos to the OP for the update.

Can't offer any proof one way or the other of energy savings of impacts compared to "regular" windows, but I'd be surprised if there was a great difference in the two.

FWIW though...We build/remodel mostly along the shore where code now requires either impact windows/doors or shutters. Having done both numerous times, we now will suggest going with normal windows and installing roll up shutters(electrically powered, back up manual).

I look at it this way.

You can install impact windows at an increased cost over a typical window. The required interior brackets can present issues that need to be addressed in terms of insulating and trim installation. They are heavy and from what I've seen it doesn't appear the operating hardware is any different than the lighter normal windows of the same brand. How this could effect operation in the long run..dunno. That said, the ONLY return on your investment is the protection from a severe weather event...that MAY or MAY NOT ever happen.

Or

You can install regular windows and put the saving over the impact towards the cost of adding shutters. Yes, the shutters will still end up costing more...but the return on investment can be more than just when the **** MAY hit the fan. The regular use of shutters can offer the windows protection from normal "wear and tear" on a daily/weekly/monthly/yearly basis... They can increase the life span of a window and lower cleaning costs by reducing exposure to the elements..i.e. heat, sun, dirt, and wind blown rain.(especially salty stuff that occurs along the coast.) Conversely, controlling light/heat/cold from the outside can help control light/heat/cold from entering home, and in turn possible energy savings.

Lastly, based on personal experience, the physical protection of a shutter compared to a window of impact glass isn't really close. Shutters offer a first line of protection in terms of water infiltration in severe conditions. Even when flashing is done correctly, it can be a whole different ball game when it's raining sideways.

As always....JMO...YMMV.

 

[GEGU]

Just curious, as to how many sq ft your house is, with a $250 elec bill. And what town or county. Is $250 for the hottest month?

House is located in a SW Miami, FL suburb (Calusa) and measures 2500 sqft. We have a 9 year old Trane 18 seer 2 stage. Since we are home ALL DAY, the thermostat is at 76 (8am-midnight) and then drops to 74 overnight. We are on averaged billing to keep it from fluctuating too much, which was $150 for 3 cooler months and $325 for 6 months.

where in south florida are you? i am in miami near the gables...

I am by West Kendall.

Very late to the party, kuddos to the OP for the update. .......Lastly, based on personal experience, the physical protection of a shutter compared to a window of impact glass isn't really close. Shutters offer a first line of protection in terms of water infiltration in severe conditions. Even when flashing is done correctly, it can be a whole different ball game when it's raining sideways.

As always....JMO...YMMV.

I had accordion shutters but was told there is no longer a need since the window does all the work. The accordions weren't pretty but the new problem is that the PGT sash replacement is $300 per unit, so I guess it's a gamble. At least it helps with traffic noise.

Here are a few pictures I took today, the back windows are 5h x 6w and the front is 5x5, the others are 4x5. Grand total was 133 sqft plus 2x2 bathroom. Prices I got from big box locations ranged from $12k-20k so I thought I got a good deal.

 

[glazier1]

I prefer aluminum frames with a thermal barrier and clear low E (2) insulated glass such as PPG Solarban 70. I think Argon gas can be a waste of money because of it's tendency to leak out of the units particularly if the units are made at a different altitude than where they will be installed and have breathers or capillaries to equalize the pressure inside the glass. If laminated impact glazing is used in the unit, the STC rating will go up and the noise transmission will be reduced. The laminated glass will also reduce the UV's thus reducing fading of fabrics and carpets. I lean toward windows with a light commercial rating for residential applications. Aluminum mesh insect screens are a nice touch over the less expensive fiberglass. Make sure the window openings comply with the egress code if used in areas where applicable.