I recently split that very saw. You're right that it's not like a typical chainsaw. I believe that the "bar studs" are considerably further away from the crank than a typical saw, as this is not an "adapted" saw but one that was designed specifically for cutoff work.
I don't have pictures, and the fine details are a little fuzzy, but I'll try to describe it.
After pulling all of the details from the case (flywheel, coil, etc) and the crankcase bolts there will be exposed threaded holes. I believe that they are on the flywheel side but could be mistaken. Edit:
You'll need a small steering wheel puller like this one:
http://www.sears.com/lisle-steering-wheel-puller/p-00915297000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=CPKKtf-Gw8sCFYGFaQod5rUMEg&gclsrc=aw.ds
That will allow you to use the crankshaft to jack the case halves apart and off of the bearings (at least one side). You'll need to find some different screws to engage into the case half, as the screws that came out of the saw are not long enough and the screws that come with the puller are not of the proper thread (as far as I remember).
Thread the new screws through the puller body into diametrically opposed holes on the crankcase half until they have lots of thread engagement. Then assemble the puller jack screw so that it's positioned to the end of the crank. Resist the temptation to hammer it home. Also don't try to thread the small screws into the case while under jacking tension. The threads are very fine and the additional shearing added to the additional tension tends to pull the fine magnesium threads out.
I put slow hand applied tension to the jack screw and then light tapping from a soft-faced hammer while gently tightening the jack screw.
Apply lubrication to the tip of the jack screw, as you don't want to score the crankshaft.
A heat gun will also make the bearings slide out of the case much more easily. Apply the heat to the thickest sections of the case. The heat will find a way to the rest of the case. Applying it directly to the bearing area serves to prematurely heat and thereby expand the bearing while the case is concurrently wicking the heat to its thickest sections. Applying heat to the thick sections of the case will still allow for expansion near the bearing. Again, do this after you've set up the tension with the puller and you'll not waste heat and time messing with a hot case.
Don't use a torch for heat. The localized heat is too intense, and you risk a potential magnesium fire, which can't be extinguished by normal means. You'll burn the place down.
After you get the one case half removed, you should be able to punch the crank out of the other case half.
You'll still need a bearing splitter to pull the bearings off the crank. Depending on the splitter that you have (or buy) you may not need the puller that linked above.
Good luck and feel free to ask more questions.
Thanks,
Phill
