HVAC compressor fan motor failed - replacement question

[tominboise]

I have an Trane R22 AC system, installed in 1997. Turning it on this spring, the fan motor in the compressor section has failed - leaking oil and the bearing(s) are loose, allowing the blades to rub the shroud. The local HVAC company wants $1500 to replace the motor assembly.



It seems like I should be able to buy this motor and install myself. Any reason not to? I would prefer to not replace the entire system this year, due to other expenses going on. I understand that the system will need to be replaced in the next few years, most likely.

Any tips on where to buy said replacement motor? Any tips on replacing it? There are a few of these on ebay, used - removed from working machine and tested" for like $85. Worth taking a risk on?

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

Seems to be a common situation. I notice that many of the units in my complex seem to have been replaced by the homeowner. I'm with you. That doesn't look like a $1500 job to me either.

 

[bonneyman]

You should have a motor supplier in your town. Take your motor in and - because the nameplate info is intact - let them match up a motor for you. The motor thru bolts probably attach it to the top grille, and just follow the wiring diagram with the new motor to hook it up if the wire colors are different. Any standard 208-230v 1/4hp 1075 rpm cond motor should work. No big deal.
Just make sure you don't damage the fan blade when switching it over to the new motor. The aluminum blades are a bit fragile and if they get bent the fan motor will vibrate. And change the capacitor as well. The new motor may have a different rating cap needed then your OEM. Just get one that's right when you buy the motor.

 

[fitter30]

Looks like a standard motor. When buying a motor the name plate amps 1.3. Tag state 1/4 hp if a 1/4 hp motor only pulls even .1 amp less go to a 1/3 hp motor. The 1100 rpm is a odd rpm the new aftermarket motor will be 1080 rpm. Buy a new capacitor with it. Might also have to buy a fan blade. The set screw raises a edge on the shaft where it meets. Also buy longer bolts with nuts if it doesn't come with them.

 

[tominboise]

Is there any need to ground the cap before I pull the wire lug off? Or should I even worry about that?

 

[Snapped-off]

Is there any need to ground the cap before I pull the wire lug off? Or should I even worry about that?

If you'd like to not guess if it's discharged already, you might as well.

 

[BurtEggley]

Amazon.com

OEM 1/4 HP Condenser Fan Motor Replaces GE Genteq 5KCP39FGS692S

This is a brand new OEM upgraded 1/4 HP Condenser Fan Motor. It is a direct replacement for GE Genteq. It is rated at 1/4 HP, 200-230 volts, and 1100 RPM. If the shaft is facing up (as in the photo), the rotation is clockwise. OEM 1/4 HP Condenser Fan Motor Replaces GE Genteq 5KCP39FGS692S...

www.northamericahvac.com

5KCP39FGS692S

GE, Trane 1/4 HP, 200-230V, 1 PH, 1100 RPM, CCWLE, Frame 48, Condenser Fan Motor Replacement • OEM Upgraded Trane Fan Motor

acpartsdistributors.com

Or take it to Geary Pacific or Johnstone Supply and match but I don't think they sell unless one has a contractors license or you set up an account with them. You can request that online. You will want a new capacitor also that matches what is called for on the motor. And at that age A/C system, the motor may be the first thing that goes out. The compressor may not be far behind that.

 

[Buckaroo5]

Just did this job on my son's Carrier condenser and bought the OEM 1/4hp fan motor from supplyhouse.com - paid about $315 w/tax - shipping was free. Just bought the motor and swapped the fan onto the new shaft. Used the Carrier condenser model number to determine the motor part number. Checked that on a few different sites to make sure I had the right one. You describe a fan motor that sounds definitely dead due to the apparent bearing damage but suggest you take a look at the capacitor (which I had previously replaced a couple of seasons ago) as well. Based on my own experience, they fail more frequently than the motors and are relatively cheap. You can do a visual on it to see if it is swelled but best to test with a multimeter with capacitance capability. Easy job to replace the fan - just make sure you keep track of the wiring when you disassemble it.

 

[tominboise]

I pulled the motor out and off the frame, and removed the fan blade. There is about an 1/8" of end play in the motor shaft. i am going to take it to the local motor shop tomorrow and see what he says. Either repair this one or perhaps he has one available at a decent price. If not, I will order one of the ones google finds.

 

[karoc]

I remember back in my day most condenser motors were about 40.00 each. We carry 1/8,1/4,1/3 hp motors which cover most units. Replacing the cap was automatic with any motors. With yours the way it’s mounted be sure to remove yellow plastic plug and move it to top side. This allows condensation to drain out motor. Look at your pic you see small hole close to shaft

 

[Jgaz]

Supply House is my source for these motors

 

[u3b3rg33k]

Looks like a standard motor. When buying a motor the name plate amps 1.3. Tag state 1/4 hp if a 1/4 hp motor only pulls even .1 amp less go to a 1/3 hp motor. The 1100 rpm is a odd rpm the new aftermarket motor will be 1080 rpm. Buy a new capacitor with it. Might also have to buy a fan blade. The set screw raises a edge on the shaft where it meets. Also buy longer bolts with nuts if it doesn't come with them.

they're both 6 pole/1200RPM no load motors.

just different amounts of slip.

 

[TRWham]

Looks like a standard motor. When buying a motor the name plate amps 1.3. Tag state 1/4 hp if a 1/4 hp motor only pulls even .1 amp less go to a 1/3 hp motor. The 1100 rpm is a odd rpm the new aftermarket motor will be 1080 rpm. Buy a new capacitor with it. Might also have to buy a fan blade. The set screw raises a edge on the shaft where it meets. Also buy longer bolts with nuts if it doesn't come with them.

You could go to a 1/3 hp if you cannot find the 1/4 with the right shaft, but there is no advantage because as long as the fan and speed are the same, it will draw the same power. A lightly loaded motor may run less efficiently, but it's not like a 1/4 hp load is going to make or break the power bill. And on the topic of fans, if you do change the fan be very careful to match all the specs (pitch, number of blades and diameter) to avoid changing the airflow.

 

[tominboise]

You could go to a 1/3 hp if you cannot find the 1/4 with the right shaft, but there is no advantage because as long as the fan and speed are the same, it will draw the same power. A lightly loaded motor may run less efficiently, but it's not like a 1/4 hp load is going to make or break the power bill. And on the topic of fans, if you do change the fan be very careful to match all the specs (pitch, number of blades and diameter) to avoid changing the airflow.

The fan is fine, so I will be using it on the new motor.

 

[PopcornSutton]

Just match up the voltage, rpm and mounting. Not much else to it.

 

[exmaxima1]

Less than $100 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/W51-14CJA1-02-Condenser-Replacement-Reversible-Rotating/dp/B0CKP8XD3B/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[tominboise]

Update - I took the motor to the local shop. He checked it out and it tests fine. He recommended reinstalling and using it as is. Also, he can supply a new motor for $285, as he stocks them for the upcoming cooling season. I took it home and reinstalled it, making sure the shroud had plenty of clearance to the blades. It seems to work fine, so I am going to use it until it fails or something else goes bad. I'd rather not replace my system if I don't have to. It's only 28 years old.

 

[danski0224]

It's only 28 years old.

And that's already on the outside edge of "normal life expectancy".

It just gets more expensive, every year.

Just had another round of price increases due to topics not allowed here.