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HVLP Sprayers - school me?

dnschmidt

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Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,265
Location
Phoenix, AZ
General Finishes makes good stuff for woodworkers that build a bookcase and never touch it but I seriously doubt that General Finishes has a building full of guys referred to as Dr. so and so that Sherwin-William, Benjamin Moore and PPG do to mix up formulas that can handle the abuse kitchen cabinets receive. That's what conversion varnish was invented to handle when people actually finished wood instead of painted it.
 
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rayik

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Feb 25, 2020
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31
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DFW area
Just did our kitchen cabinets using fuji mini mite 4. Did phenomenal job. But there is a learning curve. Depending on the paint you choose, you will need to buy the right size aircap and use the included viscosity cup to get the right mixture of paint / solvent. If I had to do it again, I'd get much thinner paint, probably oil based for cabinets / furniture. Used an alkyd enamel paint which which had to be thinned 5% and need at 2mm aircap.

I'd recommend you still seal your kitchen in plastic. Part of the learning curve was reducing overspray, but there still is some. PM me if you have any questions.

This is the ujnit I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4NPMJO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

CRZ

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Dec 10, 2020
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I sprayed my kitchen cabinets white. I bought the Fuji Q5 setup like the one in your link. Bought a bunch of caps and the Fuji pressure pot.

The pressure pot is very nice for a big project like a kitchen. You can turn the gun all angles even upside down to get into tight areas. It also holds more material so you’re not constantly refilling the gun pot.

I bought the Fuji spray for the intent of spraying lacquers. The bigger caps so I can also spray latex paint for the baseboard and window trims. Had the idea of maybe spraying walls also but it would be to time consuming. A airless sprayer would be way better for walls.

Most cabinets are finished with a solvent base lacquer, furniture also but that’s a different topic.
The preparation I used on the cabinets.
-Cleaned them with a bit of soap and water.
-Used a synthetic steel wool pad and rubbed them down with spray nine.
-Cleaned that with soap and water.
(This is where you would do any repairs needed)
-lightly hand sanded with 400 just to scuff the original lacquer finish.
-Wiped down the cabinets with lacquer thinners to soften the original lacquer finish and to remove the sanding dust.
-Spray with colored lacquer. I did 2 coats on the inside of the doors and 3 coats on everything outside.
After a coat I would wait 15-20 minutes for finish to flash (look almost dry but still very soft) then spray another coat. After final coat I lightly sanded out any issues after finish was dry and resprayed those areas. Issues were mostly my Covid hair falling out lol.

I used a Benjamin Moor product, Lenmar Ultralaq white semi-gloss lacquer.
Used a 1.5 spray cap and cut it with lacquer thinners at a (9:1) ratio, (white lacquer: lacquer thinners).

When I finally do my bathroom cabinets I think I’ll use a white vinyl sealer before the white lacquer. My thoughts are that any chips or damage will still have the white vinyl sealer background. Right now I have the original stain color background so it’s more noticeable. I’m pretty sure whatever finish you use you will get damages. So there will be some kind of an upkeep to keep them perfect. Whether it be touching up some chips along the edge, or pot or utensil damage on the fronts. Need be you can repair and spray a door again. This is the nice thing about using lacquers, I don’t know if you can do that with other finishes.

After I was done the smell lingered for 2 days. Was done in the winter time so couldn’t get proper air flow from windows. It wasn’t too bad but everyone finds the smell of a solvent based lacquer differently.

You will have 2 types of overspray, wet and dry. Taping and some paper will take care of the wet. Covering items you don’t want to clean will take care of the dry. Vacuumed the floors and wiped the table down got rid of that. Countertop and the top of the fridge was the worst!

I also bought a couple of used cabinet doors similar to mine to practice on first. I would highly recommend this to get everything dialed in and to test for durability.

Anyway I made this longer for others to read that are looking, as there isn’t a lot of info out there.
 

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strutaeng

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
2,250
Location
Dallas, TX
I have no idea, open to suggestions, the wood whisperer was talking about these products:

https://amzn.to/2USlWjR
https://amzn.to/30UFIiJ

Really appreciative of all the comments here, open completely to suggestions.
Sorry, I forgot to respond. Some good recommendations were given such as PPG Breakthrough! I used it and it's real nice. It's pricey. A few months ago I bought a gallon in black for some furniture with my friend's account. He's a commercial painting estimator. Even with his account it was like $92! Ouch

That product you listed is not real milk paint as far as I know. Milk paint has lime and causes a chemical reaction when mixed with water and has a few hours or a day pot life. It's actually kinda uneven, a bit chalky and rough once painted. It's also porous, so it will absorb stains like grease. I doubt you actually want something like that on your kitchen cabinets.

Real milk paint comes in a powder and you mix it with water. Kinda drives me nuts they get away with calling stuff what it ain't. I'm pretty sure that's just an acrylic paint. I'm pretty sure it's still a good product, but it ain't milk paint.

Anyways, sorry to go off on a tangent.
 
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