HVLP Spraying Rustoleum- Is this the right stuff?

[freebo86]

Lots of threads talk about spraying rustoleum and thinning it with either mineral spirits or Acetone. What I’m trying to figure out is this the actual Rustoleum that is thinned and sprayed or is there some other variant of this paint?

I’ve seen use YouTube videos of guys holding cans that say Protective Enamel on it.. which the can below does not but instead shows Premium Latex Paint.

Can anyone confirm?




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[ghnl]

That says latex paint. Not the traditional Rustoleum.

 

[HotrodHR]

What are you trying to paint?

 

[619DioFan]

The rustoleum that you thin with acetone is oil based not latex . the can you picture is latex.

 

[The Cobbler]

you want alkyd , not latex.

 

[freebo86]

Thanks for the info guys. I kind of thought that too when I looked at the can closer. I believe the stuff I want is oil based.

Which I don’t think I can get my hands on...


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[bp460]

The can in the photo is similar to a typical interior latex paint. I think you are looking for the oil based "Stops Rust" protective enamel. What are you planning to paint?

-Brad

 

[freebo86]

you want alkyd , not latex.

What is alkyd?


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[The Cobbler]

oil based sorry

 

[freebo86]

The can in the photo is similar to a typical interior latex paint. I think you are looking for the oil based "Stops Rust" protective enamel. What are you planning to paint?

-Brad

It is going on a toolbox, so metal.

Well that’s ***** because I don’t think I can source that other type of paint. I seem to be finding it in tremclad.

Can someone post a picture of the can. I am also
looking for Apple Red.


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[Shiftless]

Are you good with rattle cans?

Sunrise red is a close match to many snap on boxes.

I’ve painted a few things Regal Red and gotten compliments on the color. Not quite as “in your face” read as the others but still bright enough not to be confused with burgundy.

 

[freebo86]

Are you good with rattle cans?

Sunrise red is a close match to many snap on boxes.

I’ve painted a few things Regal Red and gotten compliments on the color. Not quite as “in your face” read as the others but still bright enough not to be confused with burgundy.

I started with rattle cans, but there is a fair bit of stuff to paint so I want to switch over. Issue is my cabinet is already painted using the spray bombs in Gloss Apple Red and turned out awesome. Want the other cabinets and doors now in this color, but use a HVLP but can’t get that color in oil based

See my dilemma?


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[yhprum]

Isn’t tremclad Canada’s version of rustoleum. You can thin it with enamel reducer. And add hardener as well. google diy rustoleum paint job for some ideas

 

[chipper]

Theres a few reds in the rustoleum oil line up try sunrise or carnival

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[harley jim]

Rustoleum

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[freebo86]

Well I returned the stuff I pictured above got some oil based rust paint. The paint went on well and looks better than expected for a first timer. Got a couple of questions in regards to HVLP spraying.

When spraying like this how long can the paint stay in the gun? I’m asking because what do you do between coats?

I thinned the paint with Acetone which is supposedly a faster drying aid vs. Mineral spirits or lacquer thinner but I still found the paint took longer to dry.

It’s a process to clean the gun so I doubt that this is done between every coat? Also the paint seemed to harden quicker in the gun that I would of expected?

Curious on answers to the above few items and perhaps they are user errors and first time rookie mistakes!


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[The Cobbler]

best to clean the gun right away as it will be easier . you should be able to get all of your coats on in one go. once the paint tacks up a bit you can give it another coat. sometimes if you let it set too long the new coat can do nasty things, like wrinkle the coat underneath. that's why on some spray cans they say to recoat within an hour or wait 24 hours.
when I clean my guns I use mineral spirits forst for a few rinses, then go to laquer thinner for a few rinses. you can keep all of that solvent for gun prewash . also it's not a bad idea to keep a bit of thinner in the gun too.
the paint will take some time to dry, because of it's nature. the fast solvent evaporates out & the original paint remains sort of. again, repeated coats don't need to be totally dry between , just allow it to tack up a wee bit.
worst thing , you'll get a few runs. what I do then is take my finger & swipe it across the run and take some paint away . you wouldn't do this painting a car but for what we do, it's usually not too noticeable .
you did great on your first attempt BTW...

 

[DaveInHouston]

I’ve sprayed Rustoleum Oil (Alkyd) based enamel, thinned anywhere from 30% to 50% with either Acetone or paint thinner through a $15.00 Harbor Freight HVLP Gun with great results. I use a hardener or drier and it seems to dry faster and shine better. I’ve sprayed tractors and just about everything else around the farm and no complaints. I’ve also used the Majic Tractor paint from Tractor Supply and it works well.
By the way I’m done with Harbor Freight and Chinese stuff since this virus thing. I hate to lose Harbor Freight but I’ll pay a little more somewhere else.
Best of luck. The HVLP is WAY better than a brush.

 

[harley jim]

You can go anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours between coats without hardener in the paint, with hardener 15 to 30 min. A lot of it is temperature and humidity that determines how long between coats. It's a learned art that takes time and sometimes a trainwreck to get good. You can get a parts washing brush to use for cleanup it helps get to the bottom of the gun a little better. Like some of the others have said leave a small amount of thinner in the gun and spray a little before you unplug the air and it will help keep everything in the tip wet.

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[freebo86]

You can go anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours between coats without hardener in the paint, with hardener 15 to 30 min. A lot of it is temperature and humidity that determines how long between coats. It's a learned art that takes time and sometimes a trainwreck to get good. You can get a parts washing brush to use for cleanup it helps get to the bottom of the gun a little better. Like some of the others have said leave a small amount of thinner in the gun and spray a little before you unplug the air and it will help keep everything in the tip wet.

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I actually did this. Cleaned out the gun and then poured in some thinner and shot it through the gun until it all went.

I guess I found yesterday and today while spraying that my drying time was extremely long. The stuff would get tacky but not quite dry. For example I did a coat today and well 7 hours later and the stuff is still somewhat tacky where I wouldn’t want to handle the object fully as it would smear the paint.

That is why I was asking about the what happens in between.


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[harley jim]

I actually did this. Cleaned out the gun and then poured in some thinner and shot it through the gun until it all went.

I guess I found yesterday and today while spraying that my drying time was extremely long. The stuff would get tacky but not quite dry. For example I did a coat today and well 7 hours later and the stuff is still somewhat tacky where I wouldn’t want to handle the object fully as it would smear the paint.

That is why I was asking about the what happens in between.


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I understand. Rustoleum is a funny product to get a handle on I have had it stay tacky for days. Hardener will improve drying time.
I shoot it some but I try to use base coat/clear coat, automotive paint when I can.

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[HotrodHR]

Well I returned the stuff I pictured above got some oil based rust paint. The paint went on well and looks better than expected for a first timer. Got a couple of questions in regards to HVLP spraying.

When spraying like this how long can the paint stay in the gun? I’m asking because what do you do between coats?

I thinned the paint with Acetone which is supposedly a faster drying aid vs. Mineral spirits or lacquer thinner but I still found the paint took longer to dry.

It’s a process to clean the gun so I doubt that this is done between every coat? Also the paint seemed to harden quicker in the gun that I would of expected?

Curious on answers to the above few items and perhaps they are user errors and first time rookie mistakes!

--------------------------

Let's keep this simple... if you've mixed hardener (catalyst) in your paint and you need to take a break, pause for flash time, dump the paint back into the cup you mixed it in. If the flash time is 10 minutes or less I dump the mixed paint back into the mixing cup, put a splash of reducer in the paint gun cup swish it around point the gun in a waste can, with the air hose disconnected, pull the trigger and allow the reducer to run out until clear.

To save on reducer (although lacquer thinner has gone up in price) and flash time is say longer than 15 minutes I poor some lacquer thinner in the paint gun cup, swish it around, pointnthe gun in a trash can and spray some out. I leave a small amount in the cup. When I'm ready to get back to shooting I dump the thinner into a waste container, wipe the inside of the out with a blue paper towel, add a splash of reducer to the paint gun and spray it in a trash can until the gun is clear out. Stir my mixed paint reload the paint gun cup using a strainer, and shoot.

If you have any questions about automotive painting ask 10 painters and you'll get twenty answers.

 

[nadogail]

If in doubt after you have read all the suggestions here you might call the manufacturer and ask them. They really want their products to give you better results than you would get with out their help.

If you follow their direction you can blame them if your job turns sour.

 

[yhprum]

You can spray the next coat while the paint is still tacky, check on some masking tape. Paint should be good in the gun for a few coats like that. Maybe two or three coats should do.