To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Hydraulic line reel?

Makoto

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
640
Location
Houston, Tx
Hey guys so I have this maxjax and its amazing but there is a catch. I've got to do something about the lines. I haven't needed to move the column closest to the wall (call it column A) since I installed it a couple months ago but the one in the middle of the garage (lets call this column B) does get put away.

IMG_20140719_132758_902_zpsy1ooc6dy.jpg


I'm going to mount the control unit on the wall (or something) and have the line going to column B extended. I'll probably just have a longer one made up or something.

What I'm wondering is, can I just use a hose reel like my air hose reel? that would make life a whole lot easier when it comes to putting up the column and taking it down.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

pepi

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
2,883
Location
Woodstock, GA
Up and over, run the line down the back side of the post, yes longer lines would be necessary. I bet a hyd hose shop could make up a second line with quick disconnects male and female. Get both hoses out of the working walking area.

Got the idea?
 
OP
M

Makoto

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
640
Location
Houston, Tx
yeah, i'm going up and over with each one but I'm wondering if a I can use a reel above the column B location for a no muss no fuss hose storage solution.
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,879
Location
oregon
Me, being the cheap ******* I am, I would go with a couple of rope sheaves and put a counter weight in the wall that would pull the hose back or up into the roof area. No need for a reel and the problems of the rotary union. If your considering going up and across the rafters consider using hard pipe instead of hose, it may worth the savings. You could also put a quick disconnect at ceiling height and a flex line on the column to connect to it.

lg
no neat sig line
 

PanelDeland

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2007
Messages
184
The hose reel idea sounds really good, until you open a catalog and see the price on the rotary union to handle the hyd pressure. Then add the cost of flexible hyd hose so the reel works right and some of the other solutions presented will probably seem more appealing. I'm not saying that it's not doable but it will be costly.
 

bad_idea

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2011
Messages
4,332
Location
Pasquotank, NC
I would hard pipe to the rafters, then make up a hose w/ quick connects at each end to go from hard pipe to lift post. larry_g said it, I second that emotion.
 

spotco2

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2012
Messages
1,050
Location
NW Georgia
A hydraulic hose reel is going to start around $400-$500 plus hose. Getting one large enough to handle enough hose might be an issue.

Quick connects and going up is the way to go.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Jvvmusme

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
566
Location
Bogota, Colombia
I would do an aerial installation from the power unit to column A and to column B. This way you would NOT have hoses in the floor.
Regarding column B you could extend the fast coupler to the height of the column and this way the hose hanging from the roof would be shorter. I did something similar to my maxjax.
 

wvrailroader

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
951
Location
West Virginia
Hydraulic hose reels get very expensive. We use them at work on our trucks, as a lot of our equipment is hydraulic powered. The Hannay units we use cost $1000+ to replace, not counting labor/installation. Not really a cost effective solution for your situation.
 

sgdawson

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
18
I took the power unit off its cart and wall-mounted it, then relocated the flow divider to the ceiling using a 10' hydraulic line as an extension. The stock connection hoses run through PVC electrical conduit (saw that in another thread here) across the ceiling and drop straight down to the lift posts.

I expected problems bleeding the system because of all the lines located overhead, but have had no problems. Apparently the fluid flow is fast enough to carry any air bubbles down into the cylinders.
 

alberto

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
756
I took the power unit off its cart and wall-mounted it, then relocated the flow divider to the ceiling using a 10' hydraulic line as an extension. The stock connection hoses run through PVC electrical conduit (saw that in another thread here) across the ceiling and drop straight down to the lift posts.

I expected problems bleeding the system because of all the lines located overhead, but have had no problems. Apparently the fluid flow is fast enough to carry any air bubbles down into the cylinders.

Could you post a picture or schematic of what you did? I'm having trouble picturing it. Thanks in advance.
 

eddiemeddiem

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
153
Would hydraulic quick connects be a solution for you, or is that what you're trying to rid of?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

NE-TEX

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2013
Messages
6
A set of skid steer type quick connects may work best. They are more expensive but do not spill any oil when disconnting. Only problem would be relieving the pressure to get them disconnected, on my skid you just power down the unit and bump the hydraulic switch a few times. Do an ebay search sometimes you can find a set pretty cheap. A set of Parkers would run around $75 per column.
 

sgdawson

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
18
Could you post a picture or schematic of what you did? I'm having trouble picturing it. Thanks in advance.

Here you go. Hydraulic pump is on far wall and flow divider is above garage opener. I added a section of hydraulic hose to relocate it away from the pump.

Orange bungees keep hoses pulled up taut when attached to the posts (not connected in this photo).

IMG_1595.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom