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Hydraulic Press info needed

merlin1952

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Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
179
Location
Eastern, NC
I am looking for information regarding the removal of bearing race from the spindle housings on my lawn mower deck. I have access to a HF 12 ton press but have no idea about what equiptment/accesseries I’ll need to get the job done. The press owner doesn’t have any accessories for it but I am willing to purchase some, at a reasonable price, if I can get an idea of what I’ll need. I’ve never used a press before but do see that the press alone isn’t very useful it needs additional equipment to make it functionable. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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Showkey

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Aug 9, 2014
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8,638
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Wausau WI
Pressing bearing most people make it up as you go. Press plates, rods or plugs or shafts to push or support the bearing or hubs. Some guys use sockets because it easy to find the right diameter. Chrome thin wall sockets are not a good choice. Some thought and safety is critical on those choices as the parts and the device used to push the parts can become projectiles with lethal force.

Find an old guy with an old press.............he will have a 5 gallon bucket full of pushing and support devices right next to the press.......and the wisdom and experience to make a good choice on the tools needed.
 

Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
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6,855
Location
Near Salem, OR
The problem with most mower spindle bearing packs is that they are designed to press together, but not press apart. Many John Deere 200 and 300-series spindle housings have been destroyed by pressing them apart, which results in the blade end of the housing being broken out at the snap ring groove. You can't get at the snap ring because of the hub on the spindle, and most people can't even tell the snap ring is there!

Try to find an illustration showing the cross-section of the spindle unit. Try to figure out how you can apply pressure to disassemble it without transmitting the pressure to a weak area. Good luck!!!
 
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merlin1952

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Oct 23, 2015
Messages
179
Location
Eastern, NC
I appreciate everyone's input. I've never tried to post any pictures on here before but I'll take a few pictures later today and see if I can get them posted. Thanks,
 

brokeboater

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Apr 19, 2018
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North Central Florida
My reading comprehension is horrible. I've read your post several times and still don't see where you mention a brand, much less a model. You need something round approximately the same size as the opening on the back side of whatever the bearing is mounted in. Usually there is a little lip that stops the bearing from going in any farther and that's the opening you need to match. Like was previously stated sockets are the first choice of shade tree mechanics for this but anything will work. Pressing it back in you need something to approximate the overall diameter of the bearing. If pressing a shaft back in you need support on the inner race.

If, as you say, you are willing to spend a few bucks on tools why not break down and just buy a good bearing press with the right size fittings? You won't need to to to the 12 ton press you can do all the work right at your own location. And the tool will have more uses that you ever imagine once it's sitting conveniently in your garage.
 

95vette

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Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
119
Hello, You don't need a press to remove race, clean out all the grease and look on backside of race there is usually a small place where you take a punch and knock it out with a hammer, then use press and socket to press race back into hub. Jim
 
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merlin1952

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Oct 23, 2015
Messages
179
Location
Eastern, NC
I have come to realize that I've done a terrible job of describing what I have going on here. The two race are back to back inside the housing with barely a quarter inch gap between the two. I have taken a couple pictures and will TRY to insert them below. Thanks again to everyone for your assistance.
 

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ChevyEFI

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Phoenix, AZ
Your pictures came through loud and clear! LoL.

If those races are junk at this point, tapping them out with a punch may work just fine.

If they are an interference fit, a slide hammer and blind hole puller may get things moving.

If they are a really tight interference fit, a thick walled pipe, modified with a lengthwise slit down both sides, and the walls modified to clear the top race, as you press out the bottom one, will work.
 

WittHay

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Jan 6, 2016
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2,157
Location
Surrey, BC Canada
Apply some penetrating oil on the hub at the top of the race. There is a slot or machined area that you can drive out the races with a fairly large punch.

They make special oval punches called bearing race punches. Putting the new races in, can sometimes be harder than taking them out. Small hammer to get them started and then a punch to bottom them out.
 
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merlin1952

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Oct 23, 2015
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179
Location
Eastern, NC
You gentlemen have given me a lot to think about. Though I don’t have a machine shop I believe I can make a small piece of flat metal to fit between the two race then using a socket I believe I’ll be able to press the race out. If I can get one side out then the other one shouldn’t be as difficult (hopefully). I’m hoping that same little jig will help me install the new ones although I may actually very lightly sand the inside of the housing to allow for a better fit. Thanks again to everyone for their help!
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Carver, MA
That looks basically the same as an older car front hub. Just use a punch at about a 45 degree angle and knock the races out with a hammer, travelling around the circumference as you go. Once the first one is out, the second is a piece of cake. I then tap the new ones back in with a brass punch, though you could use a press if you wanted to. For removal, there is another method using a welder. You run a bead around the race, when it cools the race will usually fall out.
 
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merlin1952

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Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
179
Location
Eastern, NC
I spent a little time this morning trying to fabricate something to use to bush the race out but wasn't having any luck. So I gave up on that and ended up with a punch and a bigger hammer for removal and then a socket to install the new ones. I did get all the old ones out and the new ones in without breaking anything so it was a success. I would still like to discover a better method before I need to do it again. Unfortunately I don't have any welding gear either so that's not an option. I do appreciate everyone's assistance, thanks!
 

disston

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Oct 1, 2012
Messages
941
Location
Silver Spring, Md
If that housing is aluminum heat it with a heat gun or use a propane torch. Even boiling water will make the aluminum expand enough to punch the race out easily. Aluminum expands more and expand faster than steel.
 
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