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Hydronic Backflow Valve Location

hausfxr

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Jan 17, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Portland, OR
I’m heating my home with an in-floor hydronic system I installed myself. I got lots of advice from online forums 10 years ago and markedly differing opinions on system configurations and components, and I ultimately decided on the simplest design that would be easy for a self-install. The system seems to work perfectly and so far my only real complaint is that the Water Furnace ground source heat pump makes a bit of noise for the first 10 seconds or so after starting, but it’s not that bad if you keep the utility room door closed – my HRV is louder than the heat pump after that initial startup.

The system has been inspected five times by the City of Portland Oregon: once at HVAC final for the my basement renovation when I first installed the system six years ago; once more at the plumbing final for the basement; again at HVAC rough-in for the upper floors in 2017; once more at upstairs plumbing rough-in; and, finally, at HVAC final last summer. There were five different inspectors, and all of them discussed the hydronic system briefly and I got the impression that for some of them, this was their first time seeing a hydronic system or at least my particular setup. All approved the work as is.

I got what we hoped would be our last inspections for finish plumbing and occupancy the first week of December, and this inspector really took a long time looking at my heating system and I had to explain the different components to him. I could tell he was struggling with understanding it and finally he said we needed a backflow valve somewhere in the system, but he could not tell me where. I gave him a copy of the diagram of the existing system and he said he’d talk to his supervisor and get back to me. After two weeks of not hearing from him, I contacted plumbing inspections and talked with a senior inspector (turns out he was the inspector who did the upper floors plumbing rough inspections, so we’d already discussed the hydronic system, but I did not mention that to him in our latest contact). At his request, I sent pictures of the system. His response was this:

“Looking at the pictures for the backflow protection I cannot tell if it is the proper type or in the proper location. There should be what is called an R.P device on the potable water as it enters the system. The device pictured is not a RP and I cannot tell if it is properly located. Please finish the rest of the corrections and call in for you final inspection.”

Doing some online research, I found the portion of the code and other references describing separation of non-potable water systems from the potable water with an RPZ valve, but could not find any specifics on its proper location. Not sure it’s relevant, but my hydronic closed loop system has just water in it and no glycol – all of the ½” PEX loops are continuous with no metal fittings from the manifold supply to their return, so the PEX lines (theoretically) could freeze solid and never leak. But in any case, the potable water needs protection from the stagnant closed loop water. I then sent a revised diagram of the system (found in the link below) to the inspector with proposed RPZs and I have not heard back from him in three weeks.

System Diagram: https://www.transferbigfiles.com/16ee9f4a-4204-4578-a302-865c3c08d4ed/3XbsvrWpZKVVujTqnLb_cg2

So, here’s my thought and reason for describing the inspections regime experience in such depth on this posting. It appears that neither the senior inspector nor the inspector who looked at the system most recently know exactly what is required to meet the code. I know that if I just put the RPZ in and call for an inspection, the field inspector will be satisfied. However, I want to put it in the proper place that protects both my potable water and the City’s water and I know someone out there knows both best practice and code requirements. Any advice would be appreciated.

As a side note, the company who installed the heat pump and 120 gallon water heater, Total Energy Concepts, Inc., did not hook up the existing plumbing to it or the electrical for the water heater’s heating element. After they left and did not return, I called them and they said they never do that and that I would need a licensed plumber and electrician to complete the job. It sounded dubious, but since their proposal only said to install the heat pump and water heater and nothing about attaching those to the existing system, I ended up doing that myself. It means they would be off the hook for protecting the existing water system from any contamination from their system if that is required. It never occurred to me to ask if they did complete hook up. Not sure if that meant that none of their technicians where licensed to do the work, but they had no problem running electrical to their heat pump. I’ve been the construction field all my life, and I’ve had almost universal good experience with HVAC contractors, so this was a first for me. Sure, they sometimes get behind schedule, but most all strive to provide the best service.
 
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LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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Northern NJ
City H2O feed> Whole House PRV> Domestic H2O> BFP> Boiler.

-OR-

City H2O feed> Domestic H2O> BFP> PRV/Boiler feeder.

If you have a PRV you must have an expansion tank.

Tommy
 
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Milton Shaw

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Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,835
I would suggest two expansion tanks. One of the water heater side of the circuits and another on just the heat loop. I would not have any connections between the two sides of the heat exchanger to prevent any kind of water contamination. I would think the back flow prevention valve should be on the whole system at the water inlet. I would think that your heat loop would not need a constant connection to city water unless you had a leaks making it loose water. I am not a plumber but think this is the practical way to do it.
 
OP
H

hausfxr

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Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Portland, OR
Backflow valve goes in the city water supply line, immediately before the pressure regulator.

City H2O feed> Whole House PRV> Domestic H2O> BFP> Boiler.

-OR-

City H2O feed> Domestic H2O> BFP> PRV/Boiler feeder.

If you have a PRV you must have an expansion tank.

Tommy

The City specifically wants a RPZ = Reduced Pressure Zone (backflow prevention devices). https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0391004-1-Lead-Free-Bronze-RPZ-009M2QT Where it is required by code to be is the question. The field inspector never addressed the heat pump and water tank. He was only looking at the hydronic control system. I'm now looking at the whole system wondering if the heat pump poses a similar problem, but don't know if the rule applies their also. Should be a no-brainer for an experienced inspector. The RPZ valves are expensive and I have copper pipes in the utility room, so it's not a small task to add these components in - I don't want to do more work than I have to.

And, since I first posted here, I've found out that a RPZ must be tested yearly by a health department certified tester and that the requirement started in 2016. There are apparently many jurisdictions that have a similar requirements around the country.

From what I've read, one goal is to prevent contaminated water from draining back into the City's system when a main breaks or they are doing work on their system.

So, Tommy and Finn, thanks for the feedback. Are your suggestions based on code requirements or simply your best advice?
 

LS6 Tommy

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Northern NJ
The City specifically wants a RPZ = Reduced Pressure Zone (backflow prevention devices). https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0391004-1-Lead-Free-Bronze-RPZ-009M2QT Where it is required by code to be is the question. The field inspector never addressed the heat pump and water tank. He was only looking at the hydronic control system. I'm now looking at the whole system wondering if the heat pump poses a similar problem, but don't know if the rule applies their also. Should be a no-brainer for an experienced inspector. The RPZ valves are expensive and I have copper pipes in the utility room, so it's not a small task to add these components in - I don't want to do more work than I have to.

And, since I first posted here, I've found out that a RPZ must be tested yearly by a health department certified tester and that the requirement started in 2016. There are apparently many jurisdictions that have a similar requirements around the country.

From what I've read, one goal is to prevent contaminated water from draining back into the City's system when a main breaks or they are doing work on their system.

So, Tommy and Finn, thanks for the feedback. Are your suggestions based on code requirements or simply your best advice?

For me it's based on what we are required to do by code. The second configuration I listed is good for the RPZ setup, at least in my location.

Tommy
 

bbrz

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Jun 24, 2014
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Location
E. Central IL
One of the most misunderstood and important parts of any water based heating system is backflow protection. This can happen in two ways, loss of inlet pressure, or increased pressure from your system due to a control malfunction. For only systems containing water, a Watts 9D is considered a low hazard device. No annual inspection required. For systems with chemical additives, a Reduced Pressure Principal (RPZ) is required. If you install either, keep the paperwork for the inspector. The device must be installed as close to the water feed from the potable water as possible to keep any water that is stagnant from growing bacteria and leaching said bacteria into your potable household water. If any contamination occurs because you skip this install, young children, elderly, or people of compromised health are at risk. Just my .02 as a plumbing Inspector and Certified Cross Connection Control Device Inspector. State of Illinois.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Backflow valve goes in the city water supply line, immediately before the pressure regulator.

Agree with Finn

He nailed it in the first post :thumbup:

This inspector you have must be a political appointee

How does that protect water supply inside of house?

It doesn't if finn means a whole house PRV. If you have a whole house PRV, it goes after the PRV and domestic water, before the boiler.

Tommy
 
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Jim greengo

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A backflow preventer is inline to your fresh water feed for a circulating water heating system so nothing gets back into the potable. Its before the system pressure regulator. Standard setup

I didnt see where he said regulator for boiler,I thought he was talking about regulator coming into house.
:beer:
To me the city water supply line/water service .is up to the meter
 
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finn

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The UP, God's country
It doesn't if finn means a whole house PRV. If you have a whole house PRV, it goes after the PRV and domestic water, before the boiler.

Tommy

Nope, I mean the pressure regulator integrated into the heating system water supply.

The backflow preventer is there to isolate he heating system from the potable water supply.

Just replaced the leaking Watts backflow preventer in the hydronic floor heating system at the shop. It has a weep hole that drains water leaking past the seat onto the floor, preventing contamination. Probably could have just cleaned the seat, but you don’t want to mess around when you have a leak on a Friday and it’s four degrees outside, and snowing.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Nope, I mean the pressure regulator integrated into the heating system water supply.

The backflow preventer is there to isolate he heating system from the potable water supply.

The way you wrote it, I thought so. I just wanted to clarify in case anybody was confused by the terminology. :thumbup:

Tommy
 

manwithtools

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Lebanon, TN
Nope, I mean the pressure regulator integrated into the heating system water supply.

The backflow preventer is there to isolate he heating system from the potable water supply.

Just replaced the leaking Watts backflow preventer in the hydronic floor heating system at the shop. It has a weep hole that drains water leaking past the seat onto the floor, preventing contamination. Probably could have just cleaned the seat, but you don’t want to mess around when you have a leak on a Friday and it’s four degrees outside, and snowing.

I hope you replaced it with something other than a Watts. We were replacing them in our buildings every year when they failed inspection. Changed to a Zurn Wilkins with replaceable seats and silicon seals and haven't had any trouble since.

My experience with anything Watts has not been good.
 

finn

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I hope you replaced it with something other than a Watts. We were replacing them in our buildings every year when they failed inspection. Changed to a Zurn Wilkins with replaceable seats and silicon seals and haven't had any trouble since.

My experience with anything Watts has not been good.

Nope. Used an exact replacement. You don’t mess around modifying things on a Friday night in the winter if you can help it.

I think the old valve could have been cleaned and would still be ok.

I recall seeing seal kits online too.

Looks like the original watts was probably installed in 1995, which is approaching 24 years of service. I doubt I will replace it again in my lifetime.
 

Bustedwheel

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Apr 8, 2009
Messages
127
I had some pictures handy. You can see mine right after CWS and before pressure regulator. There is a drain on it so assuming that is there is backflow it drains out instead of pushing back into the city/potable supply.

I'm in MASS and no idea about code.
 

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Northislander

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Attached is a system we installed a while back. The heating side of system is not connected to the domestic side, supply water is supplied by the white and green tank to left of boiler (Axiom system feeder) that's the way we do it so we don't have an RP that has to be tested annually.
 

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finn

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Attached is a system we installed a while back. The heating side of system is not connected to the domestic side, supply water is supplied by the white and green tank to left of boiler (Axiom system feeder) that's the way we do it so we don't have an RP that has to be tested annually.

How does the water get into the green tank? If it is from either a city water supply or the same well that supplies your domestic potable water, it still needs a backflow preventer, the way I understand it.
 

Northislander

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How does the water get into the green tank? If it is from either a city water supply or the same well that supplies your domestic potable water, it still needs a backflow preventer, the way I understand it.
You pour the water in with a pitcher. and there is a small submersible pump in the tank that charges your system to 15psi or whatever pressure you set.
 

Highbeam

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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
That's good. No connection, no cross connection control required.

You need an RPBA in WA if you choose to hardplumb your heating system. Seems not too many people do that in these single zone shops. Instead they monitor pressure.
 
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