I am going to pull the trigger!

[perkin50]

I have been lurking around this site for some time now. I getting ready to pull the trigger and buy a 30x48x12 kit. I am looking at two options. I can get a kit from Menards with a shingle roof witout overhead doors for 8900.00. Or I can get a kit from DIYpolebarns with a steel roof without overhead doors for 7000.00. I do not know alot about steel roofs, but do not want condensation issues. I do however, like the price. Do you guys have any insight?

 

[framer]

I like steel roofs and siding less maintenance.Spend more time in shop than
maintenance.Insulation is a must I used poly sprayed foam closed cell good
product but expensive. Adds to the strength of building.Good luck.

 

[pkzochow]

I have been lurking around this site for some time now. I getting ready to pull the trigger and buy a 30x48x12 kit. I am looking at two options. I can get a kit from Menards with a shingle roof witout overhead doors for 8900.00. Or I can get a kit from DIYpolebarns with a steel roof without overhead doors for 7000.00. I do not know alot about steel roofs, but do not want condensation issues. I do however, like the price. Do you guys have any insight?

I was in the same position as you last year, ended up going with DIYpolebarns and everything was great from them. You can always insulate the roof so you don't have the condensation issues. The good thing with DIYPolebarns is they sent a ton of extra material, really for bracing, but I ended up with a lot of extra. The issue I always had with menards is the truss spacing, it was 8-9' on the quotes I was looking at. In the end I saved a bunch of money going with DIY Polebarns, you would have plenty of money left over to insulate so you don't get condensation.

Paul

 

[Krusty]

A steel roof will radiate more heat on hot days (Do you have any of those in MI?). A "good" steel roof will last for many decades, a cheap one will get rusty in 10-15 years. Shingles and sheathing will last 20 years easy and they have a little more insulation value. Condensation has a lot to do with ventilation, and if you heat the space, remember the heat will go up and get chilled by an uninsulated steel roof.

Krusty

 

[perkin50]

I was in the same position as you last year, ended up going with DIYpolebarns and everything was great from them. You can always insulate the roof so you don't have the condensation issues. The good thing with DIYPolebarns is they sent a ton of extra material, really for bracing, but I ended up with a lot of extra. The issue I always had with menards is the truss spacing, it was 8-9' on the quotes I was looking at. In the end I saved a bunch of money going with DIY Polebarns, you would have plenty of money left over to insulate so you don't get condensation.

Paul

Great tips. If I goe with steel, what about venting? I know on a shingle roof the soffit is ventend and the ridge of the roof is vented so the attic is vented. On a steel roof what is the process of venting and insulating?

 

[pkzochow]

Steel can be vented in the exact same way as shingles if you have an overhang planned for the steel. Without the overhang you could still have a ridge vent, but wouldn't have vents by the soffit. 10 years ago I just put styrofoam up for insulation and didn't have issues with condensation. I guess it really depends on what your plans are for the barn as to how you want to insulate it.

 

[sberry]

Depending on door locations going to 36 wide makes a big difference.

 

[BioHazard]

If I was building a new shop, it would definately have a steel roof. Cheap and very effective. Buy insulation instead of shingles.

 

[mtwaterguy]

You can add in fire safety with the steel roof also. Insurance co's like them.

 

[perkin50]

Steel can be vented in the exact same way as shingles if you have an overhang planned for the steel. Without the overhang you could still have a ridge vent, but wouldn't have vents by the soffit. 10 years ago I just put styrofoam up for insulation and didn't have issues with condensation. I guess it really depends on what your plans are for the barn as to how you want to insulate it.

I have 1" overhang planned on the steel roof plan. It is not vented and does not come with rige vent either. The kit gives an option for sttel soffit that is vented and also a vented ridge?

I am planning on heating the barn. So what would be the best method for venting and insulation?

 

[framer]

Spend the money know for overhangs or covers over doors and windows
doors and windows last longer.And keep you dryer.

 

[dirttracker18]

I you can get an overhang then get it. Going bigger will help send the water farther away from your foundation (if you go without troughs, seems many steel roofs do). I went shingle on my shop but have steel on the house. Being in MI you will have the same issue as me. Snow and ice sliding off the roof in winter. Put up some kind of ice grabber on the roof to stop this. It is dangerous and damaging if you have troughs. When you insulate make sure you have a very tight (read no air leaks, rips, holes etc.) vapour barrier and that will eliminate the condensation issue. Any air leaks past the vapour barrier will mean condensation on the other side of your insulation and then you might as well ont even have it. Spend the extra time making sure it is well taped and use accoustic sealant on the edges.

 

[Treorp55]

I was in the same position as you last year, ended up going with DIYpolebarns and everything was great from them. You can always insulate the roof so you don't have the condensation issues. The good thing with DIYPolebarns is they sent a ton of extra material, really for bracing, but I ended up with a lot of extra. The issue I always had with menards is the truss spacing, it was 8-9' on the quotes I was looking at. In the end I saved a bunch of money going with DIY Polebarns, you would have plenty of money left over to insulate so you don't get condensation.

Paul

We bought out 30x45 kit from menards and i LOVE the 8-9' truss spacing. You get the strength from putting your perlins across the trusses standing up, instead of laying down. The 8-9' spacing allowed us to have a full loft between two trusses that we can stand up completely even though the barn is only 12' ceiling

 

[perkin50]

We bought out 30x45 kit from menards and i LOVE the 8-9' truss spacing. You get the strength from putting your perlins across the trusses standing up, instead of laying down. The 8-9' spacing allowed us to have a full loft between two trusses that we can stand up completely even though the barn is only 12' ceiling

Do you have pics of your set-up?