I don't know Jack!

[tmcowboy]

Total newbie question. Looking for the definitive guide to "Jacking", i.e. - best practices, difference between types, what to look for, recommendations. For home use, need to raise mini-van, sedan (heavy Mercedes) and 4wd full size pickup. My bottle jack I had since I was a kid finally gave out, Thank goodness. Do I need a racing one? I'm sure my wife would say yes because I'm so slow just like my old bottle jack. Honestly I did search, maybe give me a link to discussion. I'm sure it's been covered before.
Thanks

 

[Monte]

www.ac-hydraulic.dk

 

[ibedayank]

good old steel floor jack
the aluminum race jacks are not made to lift heavy trucks/cars


jack points check your owners manual

 

[justanengineer]

What you see in the store made of aluminum and resembling a jack used in the pits generally isnt a "racing jack," regardless of the name on the box. A true racing jack goes from ultra low to fully raised in 2-3 pumps, and generally require you to put some *** into using them bc of the ultra quick lift mechanism. You dont want one of these for the garage, nor do you want one of the box store knockoffs. You want a good old iron and real steel floor jack. I would also avoid the stamped tin cheapies that are common as well.

 

[tmcowboy]

Just to further define requirements. Cheap, I mean value, according to my wife I'm worth more dead than alive, under $100 if you think it's possible. The truck is a minimum of 14" to bottom axle.

Floor/service jacks seem safer, bigger base than bottles, but then I get lazy and "forget" my stands. My stepdad's had a slow bleed.

I would like to try a Hydraulic not sure it's worth it.

I guess scissors are what you call mechanical, but then again smaller base.

Everything is pointing to Floor/Service Jacks: Pros- price, safety, versatility, Cons- shop space and bleeding.

I'm leaning to the Sam's Club sounds like a torin, I'll go to the store to verify.

 

[tmcowboy]

Starting to answer my own questions. Thanks for the responses, AC Hydraulic would be at the top of my price range. Narrow my search to steel floor jacks and keep the bottles for presses. I'll search the rest of the board on specific makes. Thanks again.

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

You're really better off with a steel floor jack - 3 tons and up (My old F250 tipped the scales at 5700 lbs empty).

Some of the Craftsman jacks are actually really decent. My 3 tonner came with a good set of stands and a nice creeper for $120 out the door. We've done a lot of work with it, and never had any issues. I also like the fact that parts for it are readily available from Sears.

 

[Hiball]

You're really better off with a steel floor jack - 3 tons and up (My old F250 tipped the scales at 5700 lbs empty).

Some of the Craftsman jacks are actually really decent. My 3 tonner came with a good set of stands and a nice creeper for $120 out the door. We've done a lot of work with it, and never had any issues. I also like the fact that parts for it are readily available from Sears.

Truthfully you could get away with a quality 1 1/2 ton jack to work on your f250. Your never even gonna get close to that 5700 figure by utilizing any of the proper lift points. Also.. Yes sears does offer some replacement parts for there floor jacks but outside of springs they generally cost more than the jack itself, can't recall seeing Individual seals available and most of the time just the unit as a whole. To the Op.. Buy the best you can afford and preferrable from a company who stands behind there product with rebuild kits and parts. (hein Werner, Milwaukee, norco and some OTC) don't be afraid to call a manufacturer and ask questions about replacement parts etc. Good luck with your choice and bigger doesn't always mean better.

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

Truthfully you could get away with a quality 1 1/2 ton jack to work on your f250. Your never even gonna get close to that 5700 figure by utilizing any of the proper lift points. Also.. Yes sears does offer some replacement parts for there floor jacks but outside of springs they generally cost more than the jack itself, can't recall seeing Individual seals available and most of the time just the unit as a whole. To the Op.. Buy the best you can afford and preferrable from a company who stands behind there product with rebuild kits and parts. (hein Werner, Milwaukee, norco and some OTC) don't be afraid to call a manufacturer and ask questions about replacement parts etc. Good luck with your choice and bigger doesn't always mean better.

I do go overboard on capacities - I've had it beaten into my head for so many years that capacities are reduced by "X" percentage for each degree off level that I tend to overdo it. I also like the extended range afforded by most bigger jacks (the aforementioned F250 was running on 37" tires).

I've only had one part needed for the Craftsman, it was the release valve (gear broke off of it), and I called the parts 800 number and got it for something like $13.

 

[oeyniman]

Maybe you should have a look at:

http://www.hyjacks.com/index.html

shows it all and seems to know it all.
Or maybe:
http://www.compac.dk/
http://www.bendpak.com/shop-equipment/floor-jacks/
http://www.mile-x.com/manual-floor-jacks.aspx (which could be Bendpack as well, but at least you know where to get them then)

here, you can check if the one you chose is from far away:
http://www.supplierlist.com/b2b/products/balmart/p-30/shrowroom.htm
http://www.scissorjack.com/splb.asp?spxl=Hydraulic Aluminum Garage Jack
http://www.made-in-china.com/showro...hina-3-Ton-Hydraulic-Floor-Jack-STFL323-.html

These guys come up with some hints as well:
http://www.ridelust.com/tools-every-gear-head-should-own/

Just scored a KUNZER WK 1032 for myself, not too long ago.
choose it for what I needed:
- 3,2 tons (way overboard, but I won't have to be shy about whatsoever in the future.
- semi professional execution ( won't get too much use from me, but needs to perform whenever I demand it too)
- PU covered (wrapped) wheels against the annoying 'rattle' and for the lesser 'drag' it needs to haul it around.
- 'Foam' wrapped handle to prevent body damage through my occasional clumsyness.
- min 500mm (almost 1' 8") lift
- 'Magic Lift', i.e.: fast action until the load applies prevents me from pumping myself to death
- not too long, as I wrench spacewise in a very limited area and my jack points are not in the middle of the vehicle
- lowest position okay, as I don't wrench on low race cars (real racers come with built-in cylindric air jacks anyway)
- very smooth operation for up and - more important - downward movement
- came with lift point protection pad
- scored well in a test with a reputable car magazine (for the warm and fuzzy feeling of having made the right choice)

 

[tmcowboy]

Just got back from Sam's, it is a Torin Big Red 3.5 Ton floor with 19.25in lift. for $70. I was eyeing the Sears kits last but I have stands and a old wooden creeper I've had since I was a kid. Thanks "oeyniman" for the links.
I'll go with the Torin unless anyone can talk me out of it (lost a dog because of one or something).

 

[theoldwizard1]

All of the new jacks that are under $100 are made in China. Some are okay. Many fail in one way or another in a few years.

Bigger (physically) is better, especially a "full size" saddle (the thing that actually contacts the vehicle.

Old US (and some Japanese) jacks are better. I have a 30+ year old Sear 1.5 ton jack. I cleaned it up, lubed the external pivot points and topped off the reservoir. Works like new. Yes, they are big and heavy, but they will last for your children's lifetime.