I drive garage door opener

[70 chevelle]

Looking for information on the Wayne Dalton I-drive door opener any comments

 

[pattenp]

I had one for three years, had some problems on and off. The unit finially died and I replaced it with a Lift Master 3800. I can't recommend the I-Drive.

 

[larry4406]

Run away from it. Purge your mind of all such thoughts. I had one - biggest POS. Torqued the door of the hinge due to unequal windup and hit me in the head. Go with LM3800's - I have 3 now.

 

[1963 type 1]

I just got a quote on some doors from a Wayne Dalton Dealer and the said they would not even install them......

 

[ket-tek]

I have one, I have to say looks cool, it's quiet, fast, came with 2 keychain remotes, wall station, outdoor keypad entry, and wireless light fixture. Alot of bang for the buck. I really want to love it.

It worked great for over a year, then the motor died. Although out of warranty WD sent me a free motor anyway. The replacement is larger the orginal and they said that it was redesigned larger due to the previous issues they had with it.

It's been working fine ever since.

I went with it because I don't have the room beside the door for the 3800 and I couldn't find another torsion opener that mounted on the middle of the bar. So it got my purchase for that reason.

Although the company stood behind the product and it is working great, I can't say I'd recommend it? I still need 2 more openers and have held off for over 2 years now because a 3800 won't work and the I-drive is questionable. I'm very interested in the Zap opener now. But being sold out of europe I have to worry about parts and service availability.

If a 3800 will fit that is most likely the best solution.

 

[Plump]

My brother has one. He gave me his old belt drive and now tries to steal it back every week. He's gone through three units in two years. So no, cannot recommend.

 

[70 chevelle]

Hey guys thanks for all the information I'm getting ready to start my 30x40 garage with scissor truss and I don't want the door opener hanging from the ceiling I'll look at the Liftmaster, again thanks for the information.

 

[Blue440Duster]

The 3800 works great no problems.

I have scissor trusses also here is what it will look like 70 chevelle...

 

[ovilla]

I have one in a box and will sell it to you cheap. Got new doors and refuse to even think of mounting that POS back on. Installation took a whole 45 minutes and then I spent about 4 hours with tech support. Never again! Run from that i-Drive. If I were a professional garage installer, there's no way I would ever install those POS units. Go with a LM3800. I got one on my other door a few years ago and have just been looking for an excuse to get another one.

 

[70 chevelle]

Hey Blue Duster,

What is the pitch of your roof I'm looking at a 5/12 which will be about a 3/12 on the in side. what did you spec. on the door track that is the way I want mine to look.

 

[airbassador]

2 people I work with bought one a year or so ago.

Guy # 1 is the maintenance man in the building got frustrated with it, never got it installed, and sent it back. I think he said it was his garage door type that was the problem... but I've also seen his work around the office.

Guy # 2 is the computer network guy. He had a few hiccups but got it done himself with a few calls to the company. He's normally needs backup to change a light bulb. He really likes it now that it's installed and has had no problems (that he's admitted).

 

[Blue440Duster]

My roof is 6:12 and the ceiling is 4:12(the tracks have 4:12 written on them in black marker)

I wish they would of waited to start angling away from the wall for about another 12" or so with the tracks(you can see in the pic) I think if they would of my garage door would of fit tighter at the top... it's a small thing but you can see light coming through(which means heat is escaping/cold getting in).

I'm on the look out for one of those fabric tube bean bag things people use to seal drafts at the bottom of doors just doesn't seem to be any 16' ers out there.

Also something that surprised me at installation is the 3800 only mounts at the bottom of the unit(look close), I assumed it was gonna mount flush but it seems it is this way because there is a small amount of flex and it moves with everything, been working great for over 2 years without a problem now.

Another thing you can do that I didn't is run power/plug and wiring for the sensors(wanted the wiring inside the wall NOT stapled to the wall!!!) a bit closer to the unit itself at the time liftmaster didn't even have a brochure out for it(heard about it from my garage door guy) so I didn't know where/how things were gonna be mounted.

This here is the security lock that automatically engages when the door is all the way down... basically a deadbolt, mine is 31"(center) off the ground.

 

[70 chevelle]

Blue Duster,
Thanks you have been a lot of help. I'm pretty sure I'll go with the LM 3800 I'll have 3 doors @ 325.00 each oh well its only money. I really like the looks of your garage how big is it.

 

[rwhite692]

Slightly off topic....I was considering the I-Drive since I have a situation where space is too tight at the ends of the jackshaft, to mount a Liftmaster 3800. (pic below)...

I have put installing an opener on the back burner for now.

I have heard so many horror stories with the I-Drive that I have eliminated it from consideration...So I was thinking about mounting a 3800 on the wall above the door, and then using a couple of 1" bore gilmer-type pulleys, cog type belt, and a short shaft in the opener, to connect the opener to the jackshaft.

I'd position it closer to the center of the door (in the general area of the little square I drew on the photo)...Anyone done this with a 3800?

I can see no reason why it wouldn't work...as long as the 3800 has a good mechanical connection to the shaft, it would be none the wiser....

I was just thinking....can the jackshaft tube pass straight THROUGH a liftmaster 3800? Then it would be relatively easy, just unwind the springs (I've got experience with that), disconnect and remove the cable and pulley hardware at the one end of the shaft, slide the 3800 with the shaft passing through, to where it can be mounted on the wall, re-assemble, rewind the springs, then proceed with install of the 3800 as normal....HMMMM....From the 3800 manual, it looks like the shaft would pass through...but then there is the question of the door possibly hitting the 3800 on the way up.

 

[1500hd]

I believe Liftmaster offers a low headroom adapter for the 3800. This will allow the opener to actually be under the torsion bar. Looks like this should work for your door.

 

[rwhite692]

1500hd, I did a search for a "low headroom adapter" but didn't see that in any of Liftmaster's web pages or manuals...Do you have any additional info on that?

 

[ovilla]

Slightly off topic....I was considering the I-Drive since I have a situation where space is too tight at the ends of the jackshaft, to mount a Liftmaster 3800. (pic below)...

I have put installing an opener on the back burner for now.

I have heard so many horror stories with the I-Drive that I have eliminated it from consideration...So I was thinking about mounting a 3800 on the wall above the door, and then using a couple of 1" bore gilmer-type pulleys, cog type belt, and a short shaft in the opener, to connect the opener to the jackshaft.

I'd position it closer to the center of the door (in the general area of the little square I drew on the photo)...Anyone done this with a 3800?

I can see no reason why it wouldn't work...as long as the 3800 has a good mechanical connection to the shaft, it would be none the wiser....

I was just thinking....can the jackshaft tube pass straight THROUGH a liftmaster 3800? Then it would be relatively easy, just unwind the springs (I've got experience with that), disconnect and remove the cable and pulley hardware at the one end of the shaft, slide the 3800 with the shaft passing through, to where it can be mounted on the wall, re-assemble, rewind the springs, then proceed with install of the 3800 as normal....HMMMM....From the 3800 manual, it looks like the shaft would pass through...but then there is the question of the door possibly hitting the 3800 on the way up.

Liftmaster already offers a relocation kit that allows you to mount the 3800 on the ceiling. If I remember right, you just end up installing a sprocket on your torsion bar and then a chain that links the torsion bar to a sprocket on your celing mounted 3800. Sorry, I've been looking but can't seem to find the kit. Worst case, email liftmaster and they'll send you a pic and pricing info.

EDIT: After taking another look at your pic above, I bet you could just lower your torsion bar a couple of inches so that you could then mount a 3800 on the side.

 

[Blue440Duster]

70 chevelle, Your welcome, Thanks and it's 36w x 30d

rwhite692, I'm not sure if it will go all the way through but but it's definitely made for right or left install so I wouldn't doubt it would, I would email a pic to liftmaster and ask that question not something to be left answered by a zitface kid behind the counter at a garage door store

 

[70 chevelle]

Blue I hate to keep bugging you but what is your wall and ceiling ht. and what size and how many garage doors do you have. I cant deside if I want 3 9x8 or 1 9x8 and 1 16x8 mine will be on the 40 foot eave side 30 feet deep.

 

[87GN]

I have two Idrives on two doors for the last 5 years. I can't say they have been trouble free. I've had to adjust them, replace circuit boards, even replace complete assemblies. WD hasn't given me any grief and most of the problems I can fix with them on the phone. Whatever phone tech suggests as a repair, I write it down so I can refer back to it if the same problem occurs again. Whatever parts need replacing, they send out to me at no charge. I think they do require a lot of maintainence by me (maybe not, these are the first electric openers I've ever owned). Twice a year I remove the motor and regrease the gears, lube the rollers on the door, and make sure the door is still balanced. Would I buy them again? Well, I like the concept of how clean the installation is and the fact that the lights and remotes are wireless, but I would research it some more to see if there is an alternative. I don't want/like the ones that mount to the ceiling and some of the ones that hang off to the side are not good looking. But I may have to take functionality and reliability over looks.

Mark

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm in basically the same bout as Mark. I have 2 I-Drives also. I had to replace a circuit in one opener, WD warrantied that one and sent it out free. The wall mount remote for the wife's door eats a 21/23 battery every 6 weeks or so.

My door will change with the seasons, every fall/spring it goes down and wants to come right back up, like it has hit something. It also doesn't always seat all the way down to the floor leaving a slight gap.

One nice thing about them, there are no sensors to mount at the bottom of the door. On the other hand, those sensors were nice on our old Craftsman door at night. You walk through them (with the door open) and it would turn the opener light on for 3-4 minutes.


Would I buy them again, probably not.

 

[70 chevelle]

Thanks guys for all the information I think I'll go with the Liftmaster 3800.

 

[rwhite692]

Thanks Ovila and Blue440 for the insights. I will check with Liftmaster as soon as I'm ready to install a 3800.

 

[tdkkart]

Thanks guys for all the information I think I'll go with the Liftmaster 3800.

Sounds like a good idea, so far everyone we've heard from with the I-drive has had problems, nobody reports problems with the Liftmaster. Garage door openers are typically trouble free and require little maintenance, when people report problems within a short time of installing it throws a red flag with me.
I've had 2 Craftsman chain drive units in my 2 previous houses, both ran for 10+ years with no issues. the openers in my current house appear to be originals from 1976, both work fine although noisy.

I have the LM 3800 on one of the 10x10 doors in my shop, so far I'm pleased with it, runs smooth and quiet. The installation was a bit frustrating only because of having to run all the wires for the stupid-*** safety sensors which I think are ridiculous.
As soon as the weather breaks I'm going to be ordering 2 new doors and openers for the house garage, I will be ordering LM 3800's.

 

[rwhite692]

It looks like the best opener for my situation may be the Liftmaster MJ jackshaft opener, which is a medium-duty opener (light commercial use) that comes with an offset chain/sprocket drive. Only costs about $100 more than the 3800 and looks to be built like a tank...

 

[Blue440Duster]

Blue I hate to keep bugging you

not bugging me at all that's what this forum is for....

The wall is a little under 13' I couldn't get my tape measure to stand up all the way to the peak but the measurement to the ceiling at the end of the tracks is 15' 6" so the peak is a bit higher than that, I have a 16x8 insulated door in the workshop and on the other garage I have a 18x8 insulated door with liftmasters 3/4 hp regular belt drive door opener it's quite and doesn't miss a beat.... I drive a truck for a living and a lot of places I go to including our yard uses liftmaster I also looked at the WD Idrive but folks on this site warned me about them.

I preferred two double doors as opposed to multiple singles I like being able to come out of the shop on an angle sometimes and didn't want the added cost of openers for each door.

 

[Diamondmc]

I'm looking for a circuit board for an iDrive - anyone got one - or the complete unit? Just bought a home with 2 and a lightening strike took out one of them. Can't find any parts.

 

[ovilla]

I'm looking for a circuit board for an iDrive - anyone got one - or the complete unit? Just bought a home with 2 and a lightening strike took out one of them. Can't find any parts.

I've got a unit that's made for use with regular garage doors - not the Wayne Dalton doors. I used it very little (in my 3rd bay) for about a year and then got new garage doors, along with two LM 3800 units. The i-Drive did finally work but it pissed me off royally at times, especially when it took 30 minutes to install and then almost a week to program the two remotes, and base. I've never had to call support for a garage door opener and was ready to return it but then Menards stopped carrying it.

Anyway, I'm glad somebody wants it as I can't even imagine charging money for this thing (only to hear someone complain about it later). I'll let you have it for the price of shipping. I just need to find it in my attic. At one time, I was on the verge of throwing it out but I'm pretty sure I still have it. Let me know if you want it.

 

[DIYorDIE]

Did you ever send the unit to Diamondmc?

I'm looking for an iDrive Torquemaster unit (or parts) for my sister-in-law's two car garage set-up (two iDrives from 2001, each driving a single-bay garage door).

Let me know if you still have your old iDrive unit and if it's compatible.

Thanks,
DoD