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I got an idea.. Should I get fork lift?

katit

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I have finished 2 car garage with car lift where I've been doing all my hobby/car work. I also have hobby lathe/mill down in my basement.
Just finished house addition and part of it - 35x35 garage with 10ft ceiling that raises up to ~13-14ft in a middle. This where I plan to build small machine shop. I also wanted to upgrade my lathe/mill with something bigger (heavier).

With all my ideas I always think about couple things. How am I going to do overhead storage and how to put stuff there. How do I move equipment into my garage. At some point I was thinking about building hoist system in garage, but that would be pretty expensive to do (time and money). I also have some ideas about maybe double-stack my motorcycle collection, but again question on how do I get them "up there".

And then it hit me, maybe I should get a forklift? Is there smaller ones without much footprint? If it's going to help me with vertical space organizing and making it easy - I then can find space to store it.

What about something like this?

I don't think I will be lifting stuff heavier than 2200lb, lathe I am thinking about buying is right at 2200 for whole thing (base and top)

What do you think? Will forklift like in this link potentially replace cherry-picker? I don't see why not and then I can save space by getting rid of engine hoist.

Just looking to see what you all think about my idea and if I miss anything? Always had issue moving heavy things. Now between two garages I have nice driveway (sloped but no steps).
 
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Mattilac

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That's exactly what a friend of mine uses to stack stuff (mostly race bikes) in his shop space. Works great, doesn't take up as much space as an actual forklift, and it's electric. I'll be getting one for my garage once it's done.

IMG_0447.JPG
 
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katit

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Yep a stacker like pictured above is your ticker

I haven't seen those before in hobby garages that's why I wasn't sure. Is the only drawback is a purchase price? From what it looks like, if I make sure I leave flat floor and proper openings between areas - it should be good for what I need. Space wasted storing one of those units will be easily paid of by ability to utilize shelving and overhead storage platforms. For longer storage I can even remove forks to optimize footprint, also on those like pictures footprint is minimal as it is.
 

Monza Harry

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Pallet stackers are very handy, but not a fork lift. The legs are always in the way. Again very handy, doesn't take up much space with number of uses limited only by your imagination! Moving machinery with these is either super challenging or impossible. I have a full manual stacker [1000# or 1500# I don't remember heavier than I want to deal with either way] if I had room for even a 2500# stand up twin mast I would squeeze it in. Harry
 
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katit

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Pallet stackers are very handy, but not a fork lift. The legs are always in the way. Again very handy, doesn't take up much space with number of uses limited only by your imagination! Moving machinery with these is either super challenging or impossible. I have a full manual stacker [1000# or 1500# I don't remember heavier than I want to deal with either way] if I had room for even a 2500# stand up twin mast I would squeeze it in. Harry
I am confused now. So, pallet stackers is better than fork lift? I get it they are more compact, but legs will be upfront and in a way? Is that what you are saying?

What is the best way to move machinery?

I am trying to figure out best way to solve my moving/storing issues...
 

Mattilac

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Space wasted storing one of those units will be easily paid of by ability to utilize shelving and overhead storage platforms.
We just leave a pallet on it when not in use, which turns it into a portable (and adjustable height) table. It hardly wastes any space.
 

Firebrick43

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You need three forklifts.

One pallet stacker like one above

Need a 12k off road fork lift

And a telehandler

Or you could just use a pallet stacker which will handle 2200 lbs machinery if you rig it right and on the off chance need something bigger once in a blue moon, rent a bigger one.
 

RoninB4

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What is the best way to move machinery?
-I've worked in machine shops most of my life and moved plenty of machinery. I also move my lathe, mill, surface grinders, etc. at home. The cheapest way is use pipes under the machines to roll them but that's a PITA for distances longer than 12". The best/safest way to move 2,000+ lb machinery is with a toe jack and machine skates. This is because a lot of machinery is top heavy (COG) and lifting higher than an inch or so is asking for trouble. A toe jack and some machine skates will only set you back about $200 or you can even make all of them yourself if so inclined. I have a 5000 lb jig borer in the basement I move by myself with the toe jack and machine skates. JMO/JME
 

Monza Harry

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I am confused now. So, pallet stackers is better than fork lift? I get it they are more compact, but legs will be upfront and in a way? Is that what you are saying?

What is the best way to move machinery?

I am trying to figure out best way to solve my moving/storing issues...
They are both very handy! But not interchangeable. Getting the legs under a Bridgeport would be tough, but if the stacker you end up with is wide enough and strong enough scoop by the table and push away. If not wide enough lift by table one end at a time and set on machinery skates. See not perfect but doable. A fork truck would be pick up and drive away. I wish I had room [Oh and the cash] for both is what I am saying, not practical for everyone so get what fits your space and budget. Again not interchangeable but both are game changers so get what you can and enjoy. Harry
 

Ole Slewfoot

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I used our 5k forklift to change my engine awhile back...doing it again, I'd definitely go get my engine hoist from the other jobsite instead.
 

Walkers

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You need three forklifts.

One pallet stacker like one above

Need a 12k off road fork lift

And a telehandler

Or you could just use a pallet stacker which will handle 2200 lbs machinery if you rig it right and on the off chance need something bigger once in a blue moon, rent a bigger one.
Yep, I am still hunting my telehandler. Whenever I do get it you can bet your *** I am going to drive it to the grocery store too!
 

tool_scrounge

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A few things…
1) pallet stackers can be pretty hard to push around for heavy loads if you floor is not flat concrete. Heck, even with flat concrete it can be a pain.

2) at work we have milling machines on 3” thick wall tubing as spacers so I can move them with pallet jacks. Works pretty well.
 
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firebirdparts

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I have a crown walkie stacker that runs on 12V, it's great. A manual one would be fine. They don't take up much room. A big stacker with an engine on it is great to have around the shop, too, but of course it just consumes a lot of room and it might cost a lot.
 

Hobby_Man22

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That thing isn't leaving the shop unless you have concrete all over. The only downside is if you want to unload something from a truck
 

Hobby_Man22

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A few things…
1) pallet stackers can be pretty hard to push around for heavy loads if you floor is not flat concrete. Heck, even with flat concrete it can be a pain.

2) at work we have milling machines on 3” thick wall tubing as spacers so I can move them with pallet jacks. Works pretty well.
They have those electric reach trucks at lowes and home depot. That dumb thing always got stuck on the concrete. I think it was a maintenance item they didn't address frequently enough. The wheel would wear down and then it would lose contact with the ground. Seems like a bad design
 

txvwnut

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When purchasing a lifting device you need to consider how most things will be lifted and where they will placed so you can factor max lift height and reach.

For lifting mills and lathes you actually rig them up to lift from the top not the bottom. For a Bridgeport type mill there is a threaded hole in the top for a forged lifting eye. For lathes you rig them up using the webbing in the bed and lift them that way. This type of rigging removes the top heavy COG that has been mentioned and lessens the chance of tipping the machine.
 
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katit

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Let me ask another related but different question... I am kind of debating if machines should be in my basement shop. Moving them in would be the biggest issue. Is hiring safe/vault movers a ticket? Can lathe be set upright to go into the doors?
 

jblnut

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I debated on a forklift or a pivoting jib boom style deal that mounts to the floor and am soooooo glad I went with the forklift. It has proved to be way more versatile and can go anywhere in the shop. I purchased a jib boom for it and have used it almost weekly for something.

Whatever style you think will fit best for your space I'd say go for it !!!
 
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RoninB4

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Let me ask another related but different question... I am kind of debating if machines should be in my basement shop. Moving them in would be the biggest issue. Is hiring safe/vault movers a ticket? Can lathe be set upright to go into the doors?
-I moved all of my machinery from my old shop to the basement of the house I bought, it was fairly simple for me as the below grade garage was under the house and opened to the basement by a walk-through door. I've got 6 industrial sized machines, an 800 lb. granite surface plate w/stand, a very large/heavy work bench, and a couple of motorcycles down there. The man door wasn't wide enough for any of it to pass so I decided to cut a section of the drywall and two wall studs out in the dividing wall, not much other option. The drywall was saved so it could be re-fit and mudded back. taking out the man door didn't seem like the smarter option. If there's a load bearing wall just sub-frame it before removing studs to support the load.

Wiring up the RPC, control panels, sub-panel, and running wiring was kept to a minimum length by being in the basement. The only drawback to keeping machinery in the basement would be controlling the humidity so precision surfaces don't rust. If all you have is a lathe and a Bridgeport I'd say that's fairly easy to keep rust at bay by just wiping a thin smear of oil on all surfaces, this should be standard practice after use anyway regardless of where the machinery is.

Do you need to hire a company that moves safes/vaults? If you want to but I don't think it's necessary. It depends upon what you have and how bulky/heavy it is. I only hired a roll back truck to transport the 8-foot tall, 5,000 lb. jig borer from the old shop to the garage apron of the new house. Once he dropped it on the garage apron I moved it and all other machinery alone with just a toe jack and some machine skates. Some lighter machines (cutter grinder) I'll just use 3-4 pipes under the base and roll on the pipes when the skates are *******.

This is not bragging about what I did, it's to convey that you can do this yourself IF you work slow and safely. Moving heavy (especially top heavy machines like a lathe) is not a ****** it up and away you go procedure. Lifting should be done in small increments (I go for 1 inch at a time, check it, and then level it before further jacking), all the while checking for how much it's leaning, adequate support, and balance. Moving across the previously swept concrete floor means checking the load every 5-6 inches for whether the machine/skates have shifted, or something is going wrong. Having a couple of spotters (friends) is a big help. Work slowly, being too fast/careless can/will cause a crash that ruins the machine and/or causes life changing accidents.

The cost of the toe jack and skates is likely around $200. I'd expect to spend more than that for moving just ONE machine if you hire some company. Machinery often gets moved (I want it two inches to the left), floor plans change, rearranging the shop, or when you need to sweep up the chips now under the machine. Buy the jack/skates and you can do this any time you want/need to. Hire someone and all your money buys you is a one time move. Lifting a Bridgeport from the top of the ram by the eye-bolt with a forklift is fine for moving in a factory. We don't all have a forklift, swing area is minimal in a basement, and a basement ceiling usually isn't tall enough. Using pipes/skates keeps it close to the floor if something goes wrong, is cheaper, and can be done alone if need be. This is just my experience and my opinion.
 

txvwnut

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Let me ask another related but different question... I am kind of debating if machines should be in my basement shop. Moving them in would be the biggest issue. Is hiring safe/vault movers a ticket? Can lathe be set upright to go into the doors?
I have considered moving my lathe and mill to the upstairs part of my shop but haven't done it do to concerns with vibration. If you get any vibration from the machine it could be transmitted into the floor then return back to the machine possibly affecting the machining operation, i.e. surface finish and tool chatter.
 
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katit

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Here is plan. It's ranch, basement is basement, with concrete stairs outside. Red section is where I think machines will be, but this is not ideal, I will have to build a room inside garage for them. Basement will be ideal as I have plenty of space in there. In order to get to basement it needs to be moved (blue line) - all concrete. Then, dashed blue line - go down to basement. And at a bottom of stairs there will be no space to turn around, only if set lathe on it's side vertically and turn. Door is standard 32 in. And it's all concrete, I can't cut it out :(

Thats why I thought piano or safe movers for this task...
I am OK moving machines on a level, inside garage, slowly, with pipes and so on. But stairs? I am OK with paying once to get them in there. Lathe will be either 13-14x40 asian made (1200-1400lb assembled?) and mill most likely will be something bench type under 1000lb
I "kind of" thinking about american older lather as well, but I will only get one if I find one in perfect condition and it will be like 3000lb
plan.JPG
 
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RoninB4

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Thats why I thought piano or safe movers for this task...
I am OK moving machines on a level, inside garage, slowly, with pipes and so on. But stairs? I
-Ewwww, concrete stairs to a small landing? Don't think I'd be comfortable doing that either. Standing the lathe on end will likely cause a big oil drain-out from the headstock. No idea how it will affect the bed either, big chance for twist/change to the bed or knocking the headstock out of alignment with all that movement. Do you have a precision level? The digital, laser, construction type won't be good enough when it's time to level the lathe (after it settles for a few weeks). Any chance of excavating and making an inclined plane (ramp) at 90° to the stairway so you don't have do gymnastics with the lathe? Lot of work doing the excavation but it would mean less danger to men/machinery doing that and a straight shot through the door. Are the concrete walls poured or cinderblocks? Cinderblock is not a big deal to cut a doorway.

A crane/tow truck could conceivably lower the lathe safely/gently on end into the stairwell so you could get it inside but the problem will be safely lowering it indoors from vertical to horizontal in a controlled manner. Lathes have a lot of thin metal, weak castings for housings and guards that are easy to bend/deform, special cribbing/cradle will be required. Very challenging for me, maybe no big deal for the professionals.

After looking the floor plans over and if none of my suggestions will work I'd sooner make a special room in the Red Zone than trying to do the mechanical ballet down those stairs. Get a quote from the movers, maybe it's only me that's squeamish about it. Post progress and photos when you do this.
 
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katit

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-Ewwww, concrete stairs to a small landing? Don't think I'd be comfortable doing that either. Standing the lathe on end will likely cause a big oil drain-out from the headstock. No idea how it will affect the bed either, big chance for twist/change to the bed or knocking the headstock out of alignment with all that movement. Do you have a precision level? The digital, laser, construction type won't be good enough when it's time to level the lathe (after it settles for a few weeks). Any chance of excavating and making an inclined plane (ramp) at 90° to the stairway so you don't have do gymnastics with the lathe? Lot of work doing the excavation but it would mean less danger to men/machinery doing that and a straight shot through the door. Are the concrete walls poured or cinderblocks? Cinderblock is not a big deal to cut a doorway.

A crane/tow truck could conceivably lower the lathe safely/gently on end into the stairwell so you could get it inside but the problem will be safely lowering it indoors from vertical to horizontal in a controlled manner. Lathes have a lot of thin metal, weak castings for housings and guards that are easy to bend/deform, special cribbing/cradle will be required. Very challenging for me, maybe no big deal for the professionals.

After looking the floor plans over and if none of my suggestions will work I'd sooner make a special room in the Red Zone than trying to do the mechanical ballet down those stairs. Get a quote from the movers, maybe it's only me that's squeamish about it. Post progress and photos when you do this.
Cutting pathway will not be an option. Right side (when looking down stairs) is concrete poured wall and concrete slab on a right with AC/Generator sitting there. Not really an option.

Taking lathe apart IS an option though. And then maybe building steel cage around the base using 1x1 to make it square like a safe and add some rigidity? But I am thinking if I am going to take it apart - no movers might be needed, how heavy cast base is? Maybe no more than 600lb? Can slide down on wooden planks using winch or something..
 

RoninB4

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Taking the lathe apart will reduce the mass considerably, making it easier. Are you prepared to align the headstock afterwards? Not an easy thing to do if you've never done this before. Steel cage would make it safer for the bed-ways but would you really rather do that than just building a special room in the Red Zone? Do you expect at least a decade or two of using the machinery? Getting it in is difficult enough, removing it will be even more difficult to do when you're no longer the robust creature you are now. Not being critical of your thoughts, just adding a few things to consider. Want this to go well for you.
 
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katit

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Taking the lathe apart will reduce the mass considerably, making it easier. Are you prepared to align the headstock afterwards? Not an easy thing to do if you've never done this before. Steel cage would make it safer for the bed-ways but would you really rather do that than just building a special room in the Red Zone? Do you expect at least a decade or two of using the machinery? Getting it in is difficult enough, removing it will be even more difficult to do when you're no longer the robust creature you are now. Not being critical of your thoughts, just adding a few things to consider. Want this to go well for you.
I hear you. I am 44 and we live in this house for past 14 years. Just built an addition with second 35x35 garage/shop and major remodeling (pretty much most of the house is new). I don't see us moving ever, only if something major happens, in which case lathe in a basement will be least of my worries. I feel like there will be many years of use. 10 easily.

Setting up room in garage is not ideal because of space and requirement to climate control it all the time. I'd rather have this space for parking my motorcycles/bicycles/etc.

I never had to align headstock before, but I am pretty mechanical (actually my degree is mechanical engineering and specifically designing metal working machinery) so I am sure I can figure it out, as long as there is instructions.. Welding/building steel cage is not a problem either, I'd rather do that vs building wall :)

Decisions, decisions. Currently I have smaller 9x20 lathe in basement and garage is all unfinished. Upgrading lathe is part of my plan though.
 

RoninB4

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Sounds like your course is set. Also sounds like you'll be having a few new experiences. Slow but steady wins the game. Good luck.
 

Damon L.

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I have an older Allis 2400lb forklift. It's awesome a few times per year when I need it, but it is a pain to store when I don't. Fortunately I do have an out of the way spot to put it currently.
 
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