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I hate drywall mud

jeepinerdeep

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Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
2,099
Location
South Central PA
Preach it. Drywall mud, slotted screws, wire nuts, OSB, self stick tile, wax rings are just a few of the mickey mouse house of cards bullcrap our homes are made of. The fact that they are even manufactured is a disservice to mankind. All just junk.
 
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checkthisout

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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
5,232
I'm good at taping and mudding. Couple tips:

1) others have told you about the bucket cleaning tip already. Use it.

2) Yeah, the mud in the bucket or box needs thinning or you'll blow out your forearm applying and working it. Should be a toothepaste like consistency.

3) Use pre-made corner bead for the inside and outside joints I.E. inside and outside wall joints and where the ceiling and wall meet. This gives you a nice, sharp and durable edge that is much easier for the DIY'r to work.

If you just don't get it after watching youtube and practicing etc then just hire someone. Taping is CHEAP.
 

NitroGarage

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Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
203
Location
Cleveland, OH
On another note, who here prefers nails over screws? I worked with a contractor once that used nails and glue exclusively over screws. I thought it was crazy but it was great and very quick.

He also used the paper tape not the fiberglass.

On **** joints where there is no taper, to you guys bevel the edges with a razor or do anything special?
 

Git

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Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
6,894
Location
S Cal
FibaFuse Fiberglass type tape has only been available for 4 or 5 years. The biggest problem with paper tape is getting it to embed properly into the compound which leads to failures because it won't stick

The fiberglass tape is a matt - the compound actually oozes through it (similar to mesh) and fiberglass is stronger than paper


Video:

On **** joints - consider using a '**** board' (you can buy them or they are pretty easy to make). Land your **** joints in-between two studs and then screw the edges of the drywall to the **** board. The **** boards have a taper to them and they will pull the edges inward creating a taper like the factory edge
 

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F800Adventure

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2018
Messages
15
Location
Madison AL
All great advice especially the thinning of the mud! Another source of complaints is the tape itself and how none of it works, especially the paper tape. Ensure that you wet it before application! I find so many people try and mud it on dry and it just doesn't work. It takes me about 5 coats of mud on seams to properly do it....1)Thin coat to cover the crack and apply wet tape over top and then press the tape bubbles out with 4in knife. 2) thin coat of mud over tape once tape is dry with 4in knife. 3)once that is dry 6in coat to cover tape and seam. 4) 12in knife coat then coarse sand lightly once dry 5) 12in coat and sand, patch if necessary with 6th layer.
I do not rush jobs but do a coat after work and once a day if over the weekend. Takes about a week till ready to paint.

Hope this helps!!
 

myredracer

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Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Messages
557
Location
Langley, BC
Drywall finishing has to be one of the worst things to do. Only thing I can think of worse is concrete finishing or maybe roofing. Been in building construction an entire career (as an eng.) and have seen hundreds of guys doing drywall mudding and finishing over the years. Dang they make it look sooo easy. Last time I did it in our house in the suite and workshop, I finally got it turning out fairly decent. Watched lots of youtube vids.

Rule number 1 - never, ever put on more than you need so that it needs a bunch of sanding. Should only need a few light strokes with sandpaper and there should barely be any dust on the floor. If you missed spots, lightly add more and lightly sand again. Repeat as necessary until you've got it. Feather out past the sides of a joint as needed because trying to fill in just the depressed area between sheets isn't always enough to hide the seam. Putting on primer can help to reveal low spots/areas but forget about trying to sand it down with the primer on. Leave dust on the floor until you're done mudding because it really helps when blobs fall on the floor so they won't stick.

Using a rigid 6" trowel works good for getting mud onto the drywall, then take a thin flexible trowel to smooth it out. For inside corners, apply mud with a flat 6" trowel maybe 2-3' at a time then smooth out with your inside corner trowel. Three-way inside corners can be the toughest but again, apply mud with a rigid trowel first, then pull the inside corner trowel away from where the 3 corners meet. Use paper tape if you can. The mesh stuff is easier to apply but really isn't that strong and you can find cracks later on. All-purpose joint compound straight of the box works fine without needing to water it down.

Large open ceiling areas can be tough and probably need to use a wide thin trowel to feather the joints out farther to hide unevenness. You sure don't want to get a ceiling painted only to see that you missed putting mud on in some low spots or over imperfections, pffft...
 
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ratdoggy

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Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
11,971
Location
Akron-Canton area OH
I use paper tape and I dampen it. I think it sticks much better and lets the mud dry slower where the tape is. I am a DIY guy and I've done a lot of taping and mudding over two house remodels.
Doing thin coats helps too..It's your house and you aren't paid by the hour to do it
 

CKS1955

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Joined
Oct 12, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Michigan
I use paper tape and I dampen it...

I run the paper tape through a tray of water and it makes a difference. My preference is paper. I use nail and glue. As has been mentioned thin mud, especially if premixed. Have the correct assortment of widths of tools to apply.

As crazy as it might sound I somewhat enjoy the mud/tape process.

Jay
 

Dragfluid

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Joined
Sep 15, 2013
Messages
17,463
Location
Pillager, MN
I run the paper tape through a tray of water and it makes a difference. My preference is paper. I use nail and glue. As has been mentioned thin mud, especially if premixed. Have the correct assortment of widths of tools to apply.

As crazy as it might sound I somewhat enjoy the mud/tape process.

Jay

Use a "Banjo". My guy used one while doing my shed. Very fast.
 
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