I hate gearwrench

[Fedwrench]

I'm with the Armstrong & Matco guys with the their box / ratcheting wrenches. I've been using the std box end to break bolts loose and flipping the wrench around for the ratcheting end. They're great to use. Get the ones with the reversing switch, mine are not, wish they were.

No one makes a reversible proswing version (the wrench with a fixed boxed end on one end and a ratcheting boxed end on the other).

They do make great reversible combination wrenches though with a longer length and nice thick beams.

 

[Notwerk]

So you guys have educated me. I didn't read on the box where it said you can't turn tough bolts with it. In fact, all I read was how they are made for more "power".

Well, I'm not sure whether it appears in the advertising or not. I think we all know to be skeptical about what appears in advertising. However, a set of GW quad-box ratchets that I bought (and returned due to the depth of the box end) clearly stated this on the back of the package.

To me, it's not surprising. I don't use a ratchet to break fasteners loose; I use a flex handle. Likewise, I don't use the ratcheting end of a ratchet to break loose a fastener; I'd either use the open end of the ratchet wrench or the box end of a standard combination wrench for that purpose.

The reality of it is that there just isn't room inside a thin-profile ratchet wrench to build a robust mechanical system. It's an engineering compromise (and engineering is all about compromises). You can make the wrench bigger and clunkier and fit a tougher system in there, but that's not a ratchet wrench I want. Or you can use some sort of exotic materials to increase the strength of the mechanism, but that's not a ratchet wrench I can afford.

They're made for convenience and speed, not strength. To use them for strength is to use them for a purpose they weren't made for.

I don't think this has any bearing on your particular ratchets, which sound to me like they were defective and poorly made, but it does have a bearing on what I think is an unrealistic expectation for this particular type of tool.

Anyway, I think it comes down to an old saying about cars: You can have it cheap, fast or reliable. You get to pick only two from that list but never three.

 

[KMinAF]

I use my set of Husky brand wrenches all the time with never any problems however I always break the bolt loose with a standerd wrench first.

 

[IndyGarage]

I've been using tools for 45 years now, I'm not a rookie.

I still have the Craftsman socket set my uncle gave me when I was 5 years old. I started taking things apart immediately with it. It took me a few years to learn to put them back together. I broke so many bolts loose with that set I can't count. Over 45 years exactly 2 of the sockets have been broken - both of which I purchased new replacements. I don't use them much anymore, but I still have them and they work fine.

I have a set of SK 1/4 and 3/8 sockets that I've been using for about 12 years. They've been used on thousands of jobs. I haven't broken a single piece out of either set. I don't break tools very often.

I have often switched over to a stronger tool when I thought I was pushing a weaker one to the point I will break it. Occasionally, as was the case with the breaker bar I broke a couple weeks ago - I have no choice but to use a tool that might break - in that case I used an older one that I don't use often, knowing I might break it. It actually got the fastener loose, but in the process I twisted the 3/8 drive lug to the point where it can't be used anymore. It has a nice handle on it, so I threw it in the weld scraps bin and I'll use it sometime for something.

However, having a Gearwrench that is advertised as a strong, long handled, X-Beam wrench - that can't be used to break a bolt free seems to me to be a bait and switch. .

I long ago threw away the packaging for these gearwrenches. I do not recall the box saying you couldn't use them on rusty bolts, but if it that information was there, it was not presented prominently.

I did a search on images of Gearwrench packaging, and I can't find what looks like a warning on the front side of any of them. It's possible they put it on the back side, and if they do then they don't really want you to read it.

What I do recall is what I link to above as the advertisement for the product.

I'd say it's more likely that the warning was a qualification for warranty replacement and as I've made clear in this thread - I could not care less what the warranty is with the tool. I wouldn't spend 1 second reading it, because I'm not going to warranty the tool. Nor would I spend a second reading snap-on's or wrights, or anybody else's warranty.

I will discard the tools that need warranty and buy the tools that don't need warranty - it's very simple.

 

[98TJ]

I've been using tools for 45 years now, I'm not a rookie.

I will discard the tools that need warranty and buy the tools that don't need warranty - it's very simple.

Then stop complaining.

I was at Sears yesterday (killing time while the kids were shopping for UK stuff) and noticed that ALL of the Craftsman and GW ratcheting wrenches were Chinese made. The Craftsman full polished wrenches ($100) are also Chinese, as are the Craftsman flare crowfoot wrenches that had a price of $80 attached to them.

Years ago I picked up a set of Craftsman reversible ratcheting combo wrenches and later went back for the non-reversing set. At the time I didn't pay attention to it, but after reading this thread I've seen that the non-reversible wrenches are Chinese made.

My non-reversing GW stubby sets don't have COO on them, but I've had them for years.

 

[IndyGarage]

I was done complaining about the tool after the first post.

However, when folks try to throw the blame back on me because I didn't read the fine print on the back of the package - which apparently contradicts the advertising on the front of the package - I think that's something that might justify further comment.

 

[blarf]

I was done complaining about the tool after the first post.

However, when folks try to throw the blame back on me because I didn't read the fine print on the back of the package - which apparently contradicts the advertising on the front of the package - I think that's something that might justify further comment.

Where does the font of the packaging say "use this to break fasteners loose"?

Would you call a 1/4" drive ratchet or socket junk if you broke it trying to remove head bolts? I bet so, but most people would call that using the wrong tool for the job.

 

[IndyGarage]

Where does it indicate anything other than it should be used on fasteners:

Would you call a 1/4" drive ratchet or socket junk if you broke it trying to remove head bolts? I bet so, but most people would call that using the wrong tool for the job.

I didn't use a 1/4 ratchet on a head bolt. I used a 9mm wrench on a 9mm rusty nut, and the nut turned out not to be all that tight, when I ended up getting a standard box wrench on it.

That's a stupid comparison and you would be betting wrong.

 

[98TJ]

I was done complaining about the tool after the first post.

However, when folks try to throw the blame back on me because I didn't read the fine print on the back of the package - which apparently contradicts the advertising on the front of the package - I think that's something that might justify further comment.

I haven't been using tools for 45 years, but I have enough of an understanding of tools and their intended use to know that a ratcheting wrench isn't on the list of tools to use to break loose rusted and seized bolts/nuts. 12 point wrenches also aren't on that list due to the reduced surface contact on the fastener when compared to a 6 point.

You used a ratcheting 12 point wrench on a rusted bolt...that's the wrong tool for the job.

 

[IndyGarage]

"surface contact" is irrelevant to the discussion.

Using a 12 point wrench on a rusty bolt introduces the risk of rounding over the bolt. If the bolt rounds over, it's inconvenient, but it doesn't cause the wrench to fall apart.

In this case, the wrench fell apart, and the bolt did not round over, because the bolt was not seized and another 12 pt box wrench got it off easily.

 

[Timex]

If turning a rusty nut with a wrench is abusing a tool, then that tool is not strong enough for me, I do it all the time.

And, BTW I haven't been in a Sears store in awhile. It's connected to the mall, and I avoid that place at all costs.

This makes me wonder ... how about K-Mart? Kind of funny sounding due to K-Mart's steady demise, but since Sears bought them out, don't they stock many of the tools and stuff also? Heck, I'd imagine it would be IDEAL to stock most of the tools in a K-Mart store... more space! I'm like you, I HATE going to the mall unless I absolutely have to. Hell I'd go to K-Mart all the time if they had a big *** tool section!

 

[blarf]

Where does it indicate anything other than it should be used on fasteners:

Is that the box?

 

[IndyGarage]

Is that the box?

Nope. That is the image from their web page describing the X-beams.

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/xl_x-beam/

I recall something similar on the package. They came shrink wrapped in a plastic storage container with a label on top,

I looked everywhere on the website and it does not indicate any restrictions on usage - it just shows that image.

 

[ssblood]

I use the Snap On ratcheting wrenches. Not the Blue Point but Snap On. They aren't designed like the gear wrenches and I have never had one fail. Rusted bolts, etc. Have even broke bolts off with them and they are still going strong. I also have a Blackhawk 15/16" I use to pull front rears on trucks, never had a problem with it either and I use a second wrench on the open end for extra torque.

This can not be said for gear wrench and is why I don't own any.

 

[CHRIS LUCKYMAN]

Nope. That is the image from their web page describing the X-beams.

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/xl_x-beam/

I recall something similar on the package. They came shrink wrapped in a plastic storage container with a label on top,

I looked everywhere on the website and it does not indicate any restrictions on usage - it just shows that image.

You gotta realize that you're outnumbered here. Most here do not actually use their tools hard, and most do not do it professionally. I do.

I've used Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches and Snap On ratcheting wrenches to break loose rusty fasteners and have not had a problem... sounds like you got a bad batch, or maybe I got a nice batch.

I do agree, though - if you can't use a wrench to break loose the fastener, then its a toy... or just an item to be polished. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

 

[1984Datsun]

Seriously? You expect that tiny space-saving and compact mechanism inside of a GW to hold up to removing a really rusted bolt?

Foolish...

I have a set of GW myself, and I use them a lot. Never had a problem because I use the open end to loosen stuff first, then slap the ratcheting box end over the bolt/nut, and proceed to remove it...

If you want to use a ratcheting wrench on rusted stuff, those old school bulky ratcheting wrenches are the ones you want to use. I've put a pipe on one of those before and broke bolts loose with it.

Of course, real small/tight spots may still require the GW, which if you break it, follow the same rules as putting a pipe on a ratchet... you have no one to blame but yourself.

Overall, you need to use the right tool for the job. Yes, it can be a PITA to go get a breaker bar or whatever, but if you're actually smart, you'd probably bring the damn thing with you to the project/job and free the bolts up first.

IIRC, my GW set package said on the back label, clear as day, "Not recommended for loosening severely rusted bolts or nuts" By severely, they mean when the bolt and nut are basically one piece.

I used my IR 2135 TiMax on bumper bolts that fall under that category, and it did have to work a little bit to get them to break free. All 1100 ft-lbs went into those bolts. There is no way in heck that a GW would hold onto those bolts, the IR probably would've broke the wrench mechanism. I was using a big old adjustable wrench on the other side of the bolt...

It's like using a small screwdriver in attempt to pry a brake caliper with rusted solid caliper slides off of a rotor. You're luckier than hell if that screwdriver doesn't break, even more so if it doesn't bend.

It doesn't matter if it's only a 9mm bolt, if it's rusted, break it loose with either a ratchet, breaker bar, or the open end of the wrench first. GW simply wasn't designed to break rusty stuff loose to begin with. You should be able to realize that just by looking at how compact they are.


So yeah, if the wrenches keep giving you problems, hand them off to a kid that likes to turn wrenches.

 

[IndyGarage]

Did I say it was "severely rusted" - as in one piece? No I didn't.

And if you would read the post, you would come to the understanding that I did not break the wrench, it came apart.

In fact, I said the nut came loose pretty easily with another wrench. That's not severely rusted.

I didn't put them on the severely rusted exhaust clamp bolts that ended up having to get cut off with a plasma. It was on a little bitty heat shield mounting bolt.

If you want to lecture me on how to use tools, at least do it intelligently.

Funny, not one of you lecturers has commented on the one that I said freewheeled right out of the box and never worked at all...

 

[SMKS]

I would guess they had a bad batch of parts, and those parts were used when your wrenches were assembled. That would be my guess because one was broken out of the box and another failed right away. I know they're not supposed to be used on "frozen or stuck fasteners," but my experience is that they will still take a decent amount of abuse.

I have a set of double box end Gearwrenches and two sets of flex-head Duralast brand ratcheting wrenches.

 

[IndyGarage]

This makes me wonder ... how about K-Mart? Kind of funny sounding due to K-Mart's steady demise, but since Sears bought them out, don't they stock many of the tools and stuff also? Heck, I'd imagine it would be IDEAL to stock most of the tools in a K-Mart store... more space! I'm like you, I HATE going to the mall unless I absolutely have to. Hell I'd go to K-Mart all the time if they had a big *** tool section!

They closed the K-mart near me years ago. I didn't even know they still existed.

 

[oldtools]

Give me any SO tool and I will break it no matter how strong SO claim it to be.

 

[IndyGarage]

I would guess they had a bad batch of parts, and those parts were used when your wrenches were assembled. That would be my guess because one was broken out of the box and another failed right away. I know they're not supposed to be used on "frozen or stuck fasteners," but my experience is that they will still take a decent amount of abuse.

I have a set of double box end Gearwrenches and two sets of flex-head Duralast brand ratcheting wrenches.

Thanks for the reasoned response.

Given the size of the ratchet mechanism in the 9mm, I'd guess it doesn't share any parts with the 12mm. The spring, possibly, but the ratchet dog was really tiny and I would think the 12mm one would be larger.

I suspect it's two totally separate problems - possibly both related to quality control.

The first issue was probably some foreign object or just too much grease in the assembly. I wouldn't have even messed with it, but it occasionally would catch and work and then stop again. Shooting it with WD40 either dislodged the excess grease or maybe allowed the bit of dirt or grit in there to dislodge - or maybe it just fell to the side on its own.

The second one either wasn't assembled correctly, in which case it will probably be OK since it's been put it back together; or it fell apart because of some poor tolerance issue, in which case it will probably come apart again. I mostly use 8, 10, 12 and 14mm, so I suspect it will be awhile until I use the 9mm again.

Obviously what I've experienced is unusual, but not completely out of the ordinary based on the other responses to this thread. Since they were both "infant mortality" issues, it might give credence to the "lowering of quality standards" theory by one of the other posters.

I don't know, but I think we've beat this one to death - let's let it slide off the radar screen..

 

[ishiboo]

This makes me wonder ... how about K-Mart? Kind of funny sounding due to K-Mart's steady demise, but since Sears bought them out, don't they stock many of the tools and stuff also? Heck, I'd imagine it would be IDEAL to stock most of the tools in a K-Mart store... more space! I'm like you, I HATE going to the mall unless I absolutely have to. Hell I'd go to K-Mart all the time if they had a big *** tool section!

Our K-Mart was converted to a "Sears Grand" before being closed. It was basically a modified K-Mart with a slightly odd layout and selection of your typical department store goods. The tools section was about 6-8 full isles of Craftsman. GREAT selection of tools and lawn/garden, somewhat smaller than your typical Sears store but not by much.

They should have kept the K-Mart format and just added the tools.

 

[SMKS]

Kind of funny sounding due to K-Mart's steady demise, but since Sears bought them out

I know it sounds crazy, but K-Mart BOUGHT Sears, not the other way around.


Here's an article about it.

NEW YORK (CNN/Money) - Kmart is buying Sears, Roebuck & Co. for $11 billion in a deal that will marry two of the nation's oldest retailers

 

[stricht8]

So after all this banter I came to the following conclusion:

Tools that are exposed to a mild to moderate amount of abuse on their first use and subsequently fail are *****-*** toys. Tough *** tools would be able to tolerate this level of abuse at least a few times before even thinking about failing. The tools the OP used are therefore not worthy of being in a pro's toolbox.

 

[TWX]

So after all this banter I came to the following conclusion:

Tools that are exposed to a mild to moderate amount of abuse on their first use and subsequently fail are *****-*** toys. Tough *** tools would be able to tolerate this level of abuse at least a few times before even thinking about failing. The tools the OP used are therefore not worthy of being in a pro's toolbox.

Don't forget though, it's generally a bad mechanic that blames his tools...

I won't dispute that there are different grades of tools out there, but when the obvious solution is right in one's hand in the form of the other end of the wrench, I can't simply blame the tool.

I would like to see a double-box, one end ratcheting, the other end not. That, to me, would make sense for some situations.

 

[stricht8]

Don't forget though, it's generally a bad mechanic that blames his tools...

I won't dispute that there are different grades of tools out there, but when the obvious solution is right in one's hand in the form of the other end of the wrench, I can't simply blame the tool.

I would like to see a double-box, one end ratcheting, the other end not. That, to me, would make sense for some situations.

Or could it be that bad mechanics use ***** *** tools!

 

[DodgeZ]

You guys are being a bit rough on IndyGarage. In his defense...

• While I don't tend to break stuff loose with the ratchet end my buddy does it all the time in his shop. In fact he laughs a me about it. He uses gear wrench... the old ones
  
• The ratchet wrench shouldn't be breakable by hand. Abuse should fall in when you double up wrenches or use a big socket on the end of an extension for extra leverage.
  
• These are the xbeam. The are longer and have the handle flipped so you can apply more force. They should be extra heavy duty.
  
• It is a small rusty nut. It should round off or break the bolt/stud.
  
• I guess I am the only one that read the post on how the gear wrench quality has dropped?

 

[stricht8]

Good points. Especially the x beam one. What is the point of x beam if you can't apply more force. His wrenches were duds and he gets torn a new ******* for reporting it. Too many diehard GW and HF supporters here.

You guys are being a bit rough on IndyGarage. In his defense...

• While I don't tend to break stuff loose with the ratchet end my buddy does it all the time in his shop. In fact he laughs a me about it. He uses gear wrench... the old ones
  
• The ratchet wrench shouldn't be breakable by hand. Abuse should fall in when you double up wrenches or use a big socket on the end of an extension for extra leverage.
  
• These are the xbeam. The are longer and have the handle flipped so you can apply more force. They should be extra heavy duty.
  
• It is a small rusty nut. It should round off or break the bolt/stud.
  
• I guess I am the only one that read the post on how the gear wrench quality has dropped?

 

[kythri]

He didn't get "torn a new *****" for anything. He got challenged for the way he reported the application he used them in, which was pointed out that the application was likely inappropriate.

Further, not everyone agrees that the quality has dropped. Statements of opinion are just that - opinion, not fact.

My old Taiwanese, new Chinese, whatever era GearWrenches (various ages, etc.) all work great. I've broke some stuff loose because I was too lazy to get a non-ratcheting wrench, or a socket/breaker. They've not broken, but if they do, it's my fault. Whatever.

Not sure why you bring up HF, other than to insult and slam someone you disagree with. We're not discussing HF tools, we're discussing GW.

Regardless - I quite seriously doubt anyone here has challenged the OP's issue because they're GW fans.

 

[stricht8]

I don't think the application was inappropriate. They are x beam and therefore should be able to handle the force otherwise they are pointless toys. I brought up HF because it seems that HF and GW and Duralast seem to have been placed on some kind of a pedestal here. God forbid we bash them for being the cheap imports that they are. Don't get me wrong, I own enough of those tools but at the same time I have certain expectations of those tools and that's it. Bottom line is the OP used the tool for its intended purpose and it fell apart. It failed him. It was a dud. Period end of story. No need to accuse him of incorrect use and abuse.

 

[kythri]

I brought up HF because it seems that HF and GW and Duralast seem to have been placed on some kind of a pedestal here. God forbid we bash them for being the cheap imports that they are.

If you think that those brands are treated differently than ANY other brand on this forum, then, respectfully, you're willfully blind. Virtually EVERY brand around here gets bashed unmercifully.

That said: Yes, God forbid you bash them for being imports. Bash them for valid reasons. Bashing them due to their country of origin does nothing more than display your own ignorance. Period.

As pointed out to the OP, he could have gotten a bad wrench/set. He's refused to seek warranty replacement.

Bottom line is the OP used the tool for its intended purpose and it fell apart. It failed him. It was a dud. Period end of story. No need to accuse him of incorrect use and abuse.

I'd be curious to see if the packaging for these wrenches still says:

"The GearWrench is a precision tool and is not intended to free frozen fasteners."

Because, if so, then the OP did not use the tool for it's intended purpose. Period. End of story.

 

[stricht8]

You keep insisting that his application was inappropriate when it likely wasn't. He even said that once the tool fell apart he placed a box end wrench on the fastener and it came off with relative ease. It was therefore not frozen. Additionally, it's irrelevant what the packaging says as it's an x beam. What is the purpose of the x beam? To apply more force? Right? It was also a long wrench was it not? Why was it long? Fir added leverage? Right? And we all know how bad of an idea it is to use the open end to break loose a "frozen" fastener? Don't we? So what is the point of this long x beam gearwrench?It's a weak *** Asian import POS dud. Period. End of story. And to think otherwise would be displaying your own ignorance.

 

[robmarch]

is there a torque limit that constitutes a "frozen fastener?"

I understand common sense, which I believe many in this thread are trying to inject, but I think that a wrench's length should be indicative of its strength. if the mechanism in these wrenches isn't strong enough to hold up to 60 or 70 lb/ft, I can understand that, put it on the package. making the wrench in a long format with features advertised to increase applied power seems like a contradiction to that, to me.

I've been trolling around on this website for a few months trying to decide on a decent budget set of wrenches to get, and threads like this always make me second guess myself.

 

[mrholeshot]

Anybody here that has been here a year or more already knows my deal with Gearwrench. I said I wouldn't buy anther Gearwrench product. Ive kept my word so far since they screwed me over with their ****** warranty. nuff said

 

[Simplespeed]

Iv had my ratcheting swivel 10-19 set for 6 years. I hammer on them and back nuts and bolts with air tools on the other side every day. Yes, i abuse them. I have never had a single problem. I think theyre the tiwan made through. I havent messed with any china stuff yet.

 

[1984Datsun]

Did I say it was "severely rusted" - as in one piece? No I didn't.

And if you would read the post, you would come to the understanding that I did not break the wrench, it came apart.

In fact, I said the nut came loose pretty easily with another wrench. That's not severely rusted.

I didn't put them on the severely rusted exhaust clamp bolts that ended up having to get cut off with a plasma. It was on a little bitty heat shield mounting bolt.

If you want to lecture me on how to use tools, at least do it intelligently.

Funny, not one of you lecturers has commented on the one that I said freewheeled right out of the box and never worked at all...

Whoops, I stand corrected. Completely missed that info. (I skim read every now and then in threads)

It fell apart on ya, eh?

So what. Put it back together. As for the one the freewheeled, I had that with one of mine that did that every now and then as well. Carb cleaner, ratcheting it, repeat, and then a good oiling took care of that. As preventative maintenance, I did the rest of them as well. Never had a problem.

Were you on the job when this happened? If so, then you do have a reason to be pissed.

If not, then be damn happy you didn't have downtime at work because of them.

Look at the bright side. You got to learn about a certain wrench and how it works, you were able to put it back together, and you are excellent at complaining at how an hour was wasted on fixing a tool...

I've fixed tools as well, even the occasional new one. The results are almost always better than buying a new tool or taking it back for another. Most of the tools that I have now were "junk" before I cleaned them up and got them working properly.

That's one of my favorite things about those 'quirky' tools, it gives me something that I can do randomly in the middle of a project to take a little break from wiring or whatever.

Snap-Off There ain't no difference...

And yes, I have some Snap-Off tools. There's nothing wrong with them. There's nothing wrong with Gearwreck, Crapsman, or others either. I've broken a few of them before and finished the job with a Craftsman or Gearwrench or whatever.

My neighbor has broken every brand of tool that most (probably all) of us can think of or remember. He believes a tool that works well, holds together and doesn't need more than a little time in maintenance/restoration to be a good tool. I agree with him.

That's why I've got Proto, Snap-On, Craftsman, Gearwrench, Vlchek, Stanley, Husky, and many more. So far I haven't broken many tools, simply because I quickly checked them before after I used them, fixed/cleaned/oiled/modified as necessary or grabbed a different tool... and not to mention, used the right tool for the job.

Every tool is going to/has potential to fail. Some last forever, some break or fall apart first time you use it. None of the tools I have fell into the latter category. The ones I broke were more of heavily abused tools, I mean abused on the job for quite some time, and I was abusing them at the moment of use.

You could've wasted that hour (or more) rescuing an angry little kitty cat that likes to claw people's faces off out of an 86 foot tree or something like that...

Not hating/beating on you. Just hoping a little bit of reassuring will make you realize that you're not the only one that's gotten a new tool where it wasn't put together right or fell apart, etc.

Anyhow, enough babbling for me. Hope the Gearwrenches like you now and work better after the bit of rehab you did on them.

 

[DodgeZ]

rusty bolts

http://www.gearwrench.com/pdf/HTCatalog.pdf
no note of them being a "fine" tool

 

[IndyGarage]

funny - this gearwrench advertising video of the X-beam talks about making it easier to "break the bolt"

So maybe they aren't intended to be toys after all.

 

[astrodoggie3000]

What is the point in buying ratcheting wrenches if they won't stand up to some heavy use? Just seems like regular combos would be money better spent... unless you just have money to throw away.

 

[Skin]

You guys are being a bit rough on IndyGarage. In his defense...

• While I don't tend to break stuff loose with the ratchet end my buddy does it all the time in his shop. In fact he laughs a me about it. He uses gear wrench... the old ones
  
• The ratchet wrench shouldn't be breakable by hand. Abuse should fall in when you double up wrenches or use a big socket on the end of an extension for extra leverage.
  
• These are the xbeam. The are longer and have the handle flipped so you can apply more force. They should be extra heavy duty.
  
• It is a small rusty nut. It should round off or break the bolt/stud.
  
• I guess I am the only one that read the post on how the gear wrench quality has dropped?

People snap drive ends off ratchets/breaker bars and all kinds of other tool types, i dont know why a ratcheting wrench should be exempt from being destroyed by hand force.

Those were indeed X-Beams but i'd guess the OP wasnt applying hand force to the wrench but had the wrench stuck against an obstruction with all the leverage against the mechanism while he was applying force with the ratchet. Whether or not that was the case i still dont see the need to slam the entire brand. Just exchange the wrench and move on. Opinions and experiences are great without the added drama ['all of brand X tools **** because this broke'].

I had a pair of brand new Snap-On side cutters come with a rather substantial gap between the cutting edges forcing me to get a replacement [which i've been waiting on for 2 weeks] but i'm not starting hate threads about how Snap-On *****.