I joist layout

[drjcustis]

I've been lurking for a while and haven't posted much so I hope I don't offend too much by asking a question. I just can't find the answer anywhere and there is a clear trove of knowledge here.

I'm building a two story carriage house. 30 X 24 square. The first floor is framed. The ceiling/floor to the second story is I joists. The I joists are cut and in place for the majority of the field. I'm ready to attach the rim boards.

So... Two sides of the building are the open ends of the I joists and have a rim board attached. The other two ends is where I have the question. Do I flush the edge of the I joist to the top plate? Do I set back the I joist and attach rim board to the outer edge of the I joist?

I've got all of the other carpentry techniques down but this is the first time I'm using I joists. And the engineer drawings from the lumber supply company are useless.

Thanks for the help.


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[Ironcrow]

The way I've always seen it, the rim board is flush to edge of the sill and there is no I-joist at this position. The first I-joist is 16 inches from the rim board.

 

[bczygan]

What are the details your joist manufacturer recommends?

 

[drjcustis]

The manufacturer provided us detail drawings that are perfect for the inspector but leave this detail a bit open to interpretation.


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[DougWil]

I've been lurking for a while and haven't posted much so I hope I don't offend too much by asking a question. I just can't find the answer anywhere and there is a clear trove of knowledge here.

I'm building a two story carriage house. 30 X 24 square. The first floor is framed. The ceiling/floor to the second story is I joists. The I joists are cut and in place for the majority of the field. I'm ready to attach the rim boards.

So... Two sides of the building are the open ends of the I joists and have a rim board attached. The other two ends is where I have the question. Do I flush the edge of the I joist to the top plate? Do I set back the I joist and attach rim board to the outer edge of the I joist?

I've got all of the other carpentry techniques down but this is the first time I'm using I joists. And the engineer drawings from the lumber supply company are useless.

Thanks for the help.


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I don't understand your question, but TJI has an installation guide on their website.
Has a few details that might help you do it right.
http://www.woodbywy.com/trus-joist/tji-joists/

 

[Gerald O]

No need for rim board on the outer walls parallel to the joists. Just position the outermost joists flush with the outer edge of wall framing. Your exterior sheathing will tie it all together. But depending on the load of any 2nd story wall on top of that you may need to use double joists there. Certainly over open spans joists should be doubled under parallel load bearing walls.
That being said, you can get specialized rim joists (not just rim board) for that application from some manufacturers. Depends on what you are sheathing with.

 

[Gerald O]

Don't forget to add nailers for your 1st floor ceiling drywall at those outer walls while you are there before putting down the 2nd story subfloor. It's much harder to do after.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

For end joists running parallel with joists- "rim joist"
For joist ends- "rim board"

Depending on adding framing and roof configuration a "rim joist" maybe like all other joists; or the web could be filled with additional ply.

 

[csp]

The way I've always seen it, the rim board is flush to edge of the sill and there is no I-joist at this position. The first I-joist is 16 inches from the rim board.

^^This^^

There's no need for an I joist to sit on top of the sill plate. Standard dimensional number is fine since there is no span to support.

 

[DougWil]

^^This^^

There's no need for an I joist to sit on top of the sill plate. Standard dimensional number is fine since there is no span to support.

I joists are oddball sizes like 11-7/8", so sawn dimensional lumber isn't the same height, that is why they make manufactured lumber to match those odd dimensions.

Plus, manufactured joists and rimborads don't shrink like sawn.
So even if you had a tight fitting sawn initially, you wouldn't when it shrank.

 

[drjcustis]

Thanks for the replies. Very helpful. We went with an I Joist sitting on the sill plate. We did call some framing experts and this was a consensus. I wish that I had seen the post about drywall ceiling nailers a touch earlier. That would have been easy before we put the subfloor down. Oh well... moving on.


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[signcrafter]

I wish that I had seen the post about drywall ceiling nailers a touch earlier. That would have been easy before we put the subfloor down. Oh well... moving on.


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It's not that bad to do after. Just use a 2x4 and use a couple of clamps to hold it down to the top plate while you nail or screw it off from the bottom.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

It's not that bad to do after. Just use a 2x4 and use a couple of clamps to hold it down to the top plate while you nail or screw it off from the bottom.

There's an even easier solution- drywall clips.

 

[hawkeye2]

Call the engineer!!!!