I know... another thread/poll about compressor piping

[rust buster]

I know this topic has been beaten to death, and I have spent literally hours and hours reading through old posts on the subject through searches. Here's my setup: I have a 7.5 HP compressor on one side of my shop. I don't have an aftercooler (yet), so I placed it about 40ft away from my dryer (35 CFM Champion) to allow the air to cool as much as possible prior to hitting the dryer.

From the dryer, I then plumbed to my sandblaster, a few drops, and hose reels with 3/4" AirNet Aluminum pipe (not cheap).

So my question is how to pipe from the compressor to the dryer. As I said, it's about 40ft away and will have one 90 degree bend. The Airnet was expensive, so trying to avoid more fittings and pipe of that. Copper and black pipe are in the mix, but everyone has so much good and bad about each to say. I will obviously have a filter and water separator on this line, and I want it to cool the air as much as possible. I already have a 3/4" flexible stainless steel line to connect the tank to the rigid pipe (whatever I decide).

On a side note, can anyone tell me why you never see people install the aluminum piping system with the risers on the drops to reduce moisture? I always see them for black pipe, but it seems the other systems just go with regular drops.

 

[Cougar]

We have black pipe in our shop, about 17 years, no problems.
From the compressor to the air tank, used black pipe and braided line.
The dryer is connected with NBR/SBR blend air hose.

In my home shop I would consider copper.

 

[Bob-B]

Most shops I've worked in, including my current job, have black pipe. My home shop also has black pipe.

 

[rust buster]

Ok, so far looks like the poll is split between copper and black pipe. So REALISTICALLY, how much do I have to worry about the black pipe rusting over that 40', and how long would it take to happen?

 

[NUTTSGT]

When I bought my place, it had black pipe and galvanized lines. Some of them were rusty and worried me as the compressor had a large amount of water in it. I scrapped every bit of it out, as looking at how things were neglected when I bought the place. I didn't have a compressor at the time as I scrapped that out too, I think it must have had 3-4" of water in it.

I bought my compressor before I became a member here and plumbed my system at the time. This winter there will be a replumbing airline project.

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Copper!! It is not "pricey" compared to steel...it is roughly the same per foot. (or at least it was last time I looked) It is soooooo much easier to work with, and easier to join, and less likely to leak, and doesn't rust, and looks better....

 

[MP&C]

I don't have an aftercooler (yet), so I placed it about 40ft away from my dryer (35 CFM Champion) to allow the air to cool as much as possible prior to hitting the dryer.

What kind of dryer are you using? I have a Pneuma-tech refrigerant dryer, and to limit moisture even getting to the tank, I have the line coming off the compressor head going right into the dryer, then back into the tank.

The contact switch for the compressor had a couple extra contacts available, so the dryer was wired into the extra contacts so it comes on when the compressor does.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I am now in the initial stages of running my air piping system in 3/4" black pipe, which I have plans to paint green unless my painting enthusiasm wanes.

 

[akdiesel]

Stainless steel. Works great, no rust issues, pressure rated for any issues, easily changed for future upgrades, clean looking, and its stainless.

 

[Sureshot]

I did 3/4 copper 12 yrs ago. Still going strong.

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Stainless steel. Works great, no rust issues, pressure rated for any issues, easily changed for future upgrades, clean looking, and its stainless.

Well, I guess you could also wipe your *** with 100 dollar bills if you've got 'em.

 

[buzz4041]

I use galvanized pipe so I don't have to worry about rust issues.

 

[thedeatons]

Why not high pressure PEX, like most of the newer threads suggest? You could do a 2 bay garage pretty easily for about $100, with no threading or soldering.

James

 

[akdiesel]

Well, I guess you could also wipe your *** with 100 dollar bills if you've got 'em.

Was not expecting a bashing for giving the OP his requested choices, but if that makes my *** that much better so be it.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I guess that these days copper might be a wise choice. That way, when the thieves break in, they will be more likely to steal your air piping rather than your tools........

 

[Rag Roc]

3/4" black iron painted blue. For the connection between the compressor and rigid pipe, I elected to use high pressure hose and AN fittings to handle the vibration.

 

[stonesfan68]

Contact a local industrial compressor distributor about getting an aluminum compressed air piping system. It uses compression fittings, is rated for 250 PSIG, doesn't rust, is lightweight, and is easy to install.

Try SimplAir or Infinity.

 

[RECox286]

I've been using my galvanized pipes for about 30 years. No problems so far.

No leaks, no spalled zinc inside the pipes, no blowouts.

Uncle Bob

 

[ddawg16]

Well, I guess you could also wipe your *** with 100 dollar bills if you've got 'em.

Was not expecting a bashing for giving the OP his requested choices, but if that makes my *** that much better so be it.

ak.....he was just joking.....you can't take too serious what goat says....he has a very sarcastic sense of humor.....

Stainless is nice....and part of my setup is stainless....specifically where it comes in from through the wall and to my dryer...

I did my lines with copper....mainly because most of it is up in the floor joists...and it's a lot easier to snake copper up there than black pipe....

With that said....if the pipe is going to be on the outside of a wall....I think I would prefer black pipe so that it can tollerate the garage rash (things banging into it)

 

[Falcon67]

>I have to worry about the black pipe rusting over that 40', and how long would it take to happen?

I used black in the old shop and it was up for about 4 years. Then we moved and I took it all with me. Stored it for a year, then put it up in the new shop. I have a home brew dryer that is placed right off the tank. The inside of the pipes have turned brown but I never see anything the comes from that. I re-used all the pipe, no problems. For air tools and such I have a water trap/filter/regulator that can travel around the shop as needed. For tires and general air stuff I just plug right into an outlet. No water, no rust flakes, etc ever shows up in the traps.

 

[Burtonrider10022]

What about coating the inside of the black pipe with enamel paint?

 

[akdiesel]

ak.....he was just joking.....you can't take too serious what goat says....he has a very sarcastic sense of humor.....

Stainless is nice....and part of my setup is stainless....specifically where it comes in from through the wall and to my dryer...

I did my lines with copper....mainly because most of it is up in the floor joists...and it's a lot easier to snake copper up there than black pipe....

With that said....if the pipe is going to be on the outside of a wall....I think I would prefer black pipe so that it can tollerate the garage rash (things banging into it)

Apriciate that, I was not trying to brag, simply letting others know of the options.
Black pipe will take a while to rust. If your system is working like it should you should never have to replace black pipe.

 

[akdiesel]

What about coating the inside of the black pipe with enamel paint?

It could flake off and create more hassle than good.

 

[K72nova]

I'm putting in a vote for copper, I'm installing 70' of 3/4 type L copper in my garage this weekend. Everyone told me it would be a lot cheaper to go with black pipe but the total cost of Black pipe vs. Type L copper at my local lowes was

Black Pipe. $209.84
Type L Copper $189.76

That's right, copper was cheaper, this includes all fitting and connections.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I usually run copper from the compressor to the black pipe on the wall. Keeping it in loops will absorb the vibration from the compressor and also give you more length for air to cool.

Black pipe is preferred over galvanized (IMO)... I've read multiple places where they say don't use galvanized because it can flake off inside the pipe and that can clog things...

 

[sanddan]

I found it was too hard to get the black pipe to be perfectly sealed up. The more bends, the worse it gets. I took out all of the pipe and replaced it with copper in my shop.

 

[bts]

My system is all run in polyurethane tube with push fit fittings. Eazy to run anywhere you need to

2 x 1/2" lines to the middle of the shop

Other outlets are run off at different points.

Also have lines coming in from each compressor tank with a valve for droping out the water. Saves have to go out into the other shed to drain the tanks.

 

[rust buster]

Wow, this thread really took off! The poll is just like the presidential race, about even between copper and iron. The dryer is a 35 CFM Champion. I am 95% sure I've decided on copper for the ease of installation and I have about a million fittings laying around left over from a house renovation.

Now I have been working on the layout. So here's what I plan, please chime in to steer me in the right direction if I am way off course. Off the compressor tank I go 3/4" stainless steel flex hose with a ball valve shutoff. Once it hits hard copper pipe I will put in a regulator. 30' from there I hit a coalescing filter with 3/4" NPT inlet/outlets. (I was told that the filter should be far downstream from the tank to allow cooling and close to (but before the dryer). My dryer also has a built in filter, but I figure it can't hurt. The inlet and outlet of the dryer is also SS flex line. From the dryer, it pretty much connects to the rigid AirNet aluminum piping, which I started putting up last night. Installation is a breeze with that stuff...

Do I need any risers or drains after the dryer? I will have one drain for sure at the end of the line where I have a hose reel. I guess the question is how effective the dryer will be? I'm also sloping everying to that end line drain.

Final dumb question. The connection between the AirNet and the copper will be obvisouly be aluminum to copper. Do I have to worry about the chemical reaction between the two like you do when you are wiring?

 

[Falcon67]

Every drop I plumb has a gate valve shut off before the outlet and a drip leg with a gate valve.

Note - the little brass thing next to the cooling tower is a 175 psi relief valve, should the compressor go into run away.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Every drop I plumb has a gate valve shut off before the outlet and a drip leg with a gate valve.


Note - the little brass thing next to the cooling tower is a 175 psi relief valve, should the compressor go into run away.

Chris, just curious. Why the valve in the drop? Is there a special need to shut off air in that location for something? Maybe I am missing something. The pressure relief is an excellent addition to a system. The more, the merrier.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Anyone have a pressure guage on their main trunk line to monitor system pressure in the shop, rather than, or in addition to one at the tank? I am installing one this afternoon if I can break away from my grandaughter long enough to get more black pipe. She has had me on birdhouse construction detail for a while today.

 

['04 Cummins]

I used all ½" galvanized screw-pipe for mine, so no rust. Like Falcon's, mine has a shutoff ball valve for every drop, and a valved drip leg. I have three drops, and run a filter and regulator at each drop.

 

[Sureshot]

I ran my airlines about 4' off the floor and made the mistake of tee'ing down instead of up for the outlets. I put an air outlet every 12' in my 42x60 and a hose spool on each end. If I were to do it again I think I would just go to the spools and an outlet at the varsol tank. With a 50' on each spool you can have 2 lines in 90 percent of the shop.

 

[Shocker]

I am planning on using the 3/4" Rapidair Maxline for mine. There are a couple of guys with some good threads about it.

http://rapidairproducts.com/maxline.asp