I know there are a million threads but...

[ct03911]

Really, I think I've read almost every one. Probably twice.
Still, what do you think?
Original floor was a "pos".

26x28; jack hammered it out.

Poured a 7" 4000 psi fiber reinforced new floor.

Went round and round with the contractor. He "said" he had never had a floor crack.

Would do it different today and I know everyone has opinions.

Did a complete floor removal and re-grade; compaction.
Added wire and rebar where the lift was going to be.
Did a rebar tie into the walls, basically every 2' a bar was drilled into the walls to tie the floor into the walls.

Yes, my floor has now cracked.
I've read all the threads about why.

So, I can't have a cracked floor. Not happening.
I'm now thinking let it finish cracking and drop the $4k to have the crack fixed professionally and epoxy coated.

Really, I spend $4k to fix a crack?

 

[Pig In A Poke]

If it is concrete it is going to crack. Cracking is a huge issue in the Northeast as well, rocky soil, high water tables, frost, and temperature swings.

Is the slab tilting or lifting and dropping?

Tying it to the wall is probably not helping. Is water coming up through the crack?
I have poured a lot of concrete in Ct., it is going to crack all you can do is try to control it.

 

[joes169]

30 minutes to chalk lines and saw 54' of control joints seems easy now, no idea why some contractors are so hesitant to do so. Or, how they can be so accepting of random cracking. Or, how they can stay in business with all this random cracking on past jobs.........

 

[lakeroadster]

So, I can't have a cracked floor. Not happening.

Actually you can, you do and it did.

I have (3) questions:

A) What's the big deal?
B) Where are the photo's?
C) Why is it tied into the walls?

 

[Qrazy]

If it is concrete it is going to crack. Cracking is a huge issue in the Northeast as well, rocky soil, high water tables, frost, and temperature swings.

This. Sorry my fellow Ct garage journalist. I have concrete troubles of my own... Water and frost can move mountains.

 

[jav]

I'm going through this now in MA. I'm jack hammering out a 60+ year old slab that is in great shape- just very minor surface cracks and it doesn't have ANY steel in it.

BUT- the garage is just too small. SO- in the next few weeks I'll be pouring a 25x42 x 5"+ thick slab and the opinions are rampant. I'm most likely going with a commercial slab guy that does many large retail burnished floors and his recommendation is - no wall ties- floating slab- fiber filled - no steel. I grilled him about why no steel and his position is that he's had greater success w/ 4K psi fiber than he has with the junk - often rusty steel he always seem to get around here.

I'm stressing about it and I feel like getting a good slab is a **** shoot!

 

[Pig In A Poke]

Steel will not stop cracking it will just keep the pieces together when they crack.

Cut control joints.
Do not tie into the walls.
Use welded wire mesh and rebar.
Make sure the concrete is the correct consistency coming out of the truck.
Clear all large objects within 3' below the slab and compact the gravel fill.
Use vapor barrier.

Pics of the slab would help.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
If the cracks are stabilized you may be able to just fill them with our Crack Repair Epoxy Putty or one of our other products. They also make really good polyurea crack fillers we can direct you to, email us directly. Thank you.