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I like Parker vises but not this much

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autopts

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Re: I like Parker vises but this much

If you need Parker vise jaws they can had here on ebay. But would you pay this much, I think not.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MANUFACTURED-REPLACEMENT-PARKER-VISE-JAWS-/320758899408?pt=Clamps_Vises&hash=item4aaeb862d0#ht_500wt_1287

He's got to make up for all the hours he spent making those Parker jaws for Catalyst. He gave him his usual song and dance routine and got his for next to nothing on his 974. It took this machinist at least 10 days to get them perfect for him. I had him do a pair off 6" of a American Scale and he charged me $55 which I thought was fair.
 
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Slip_Kid

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Re: I like Parker vises but this much

He's got to make up for all the hours he spent making those Parker jaws for Catalyst. He gave him his usual song and dance routine and got his for next to nothing on his 974. It took this machinist at least 10 days to get them perfect for him. I had him do a pair off 6" of a American Scale and he charged me $55 which I thought was fair.

$55 is a fair price but $255 is way to high. I know a lot of time goes into making these and they look great. But I could not pay $225 for these.
 

Brad54

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for $225, they better be delivered by a smoking-********* holding those parts in one hand, a 6-pack in the other, wearing a smile and nothing else, saying "why don't you set that big ol' vise on the floor in your garage and just stand behind me while I install these?"

-Brad
 

Steevo

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for $225, they better be delivered by a smoking-********* holding those parts in one hand, a 6-pack in the other, wearing a smile and nothing else, saying "why don't you set that big ol' vise on the floor in your garage and just stand behind me while I install these?"

-Brad

This!
I might buy some, even though I don't have a Parker vise . . .
What kind of beer is in that six-pack?
 

autopts

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bradleykd

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related but still off topic, on these vises can you drive the pins out from the top, or do you have to do it from the bottom? I cant seem to get my pin punches in straight on the bottom and i dont want to hit my slide with the hammer...
 

autopts

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related but still off topic, on these vises can you drive the pins out from the top, or do you have to do it from the bottom? I cant seem to get my pin punches in straight on the bottom and i dont want to hit my slide with the hammer...

I took a brass piece of stock and started tapping each end of the jaw. Eventually the pins sheared off nicely and fell out.
 
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pro machine Engineering

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For the record. catylist paid $200.00 plus shipping for his jaws. It took several days before I was able to get them on a machine. I had them done on the first shot in a day. I do know they are pricey. The special cutter I had to have made in high speed steel was very expensive. I understand that. But machine time is a big factor when cutting a complex part. To help with pricing what would you call a realistic price. As for having 10 sets I do not have 10 set setting on the shelf we build them as they are ordered. In fact im building a set today. I also offer on ebay the option of recheckering your old set of vise jaws
 
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IanG

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I got a Parker 974 that I am restoring right now. For me, I dont think I could pay more than $100 for a new set of jaws. I picked up the unit on CL for $60 and put about another $20 on tools/paint into it. The cost of the jaws is gonna be worth more then the value of my restored vise in my opinion. However, I am contemplating sending in my old jaws to get recheckered.
 

pro machine Engineering

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I wish I could get the price down to the $100.00 but. again its all about machine time to build. I understand they are pricey. I know not a lot of people will put more into a vise than its worth. Im not sure what parker was thinking when they designed the vise jaw. but the made it a machinist nightmare to build. I am unsure but I would guess the original jaws was cast
 

pro machine Engineering

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Another thing to factor in on the price. Is It was a special order one off part. Which is costly. I actually lost money making catylist set. I paid more for the special cutter than what he paid. I under estimated what the cutter was going to cost me. At this point I can make them for less than the original price. But its not a good business practice to let a customer pay the initial tooling cost then charge everybody less. I could have taken a chance absorbed the cost and would have if there was an idea of how many sets I could spread the cost over. However with these jaws it would be a **** shoot on the number you are going to build. I can say this if everyone on the forum that need a set of parker jaws or even just one jaw would get together to give me an idea of the number needed I can cut the cost down to 100 a set. That way I can spread the tooling cost among several sets. And I will refund some of catalist money. We all would win in that situation
 

A_Pmech

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Take a look around your garage. Add up in your head the value of all your toolboxes, wrenches, screwdrivers, sockets, welders, pipe wrenches, hand drills, etc. Realize that a machine shop requires all these hand tools as a bare bones basic necessity.

On top of a well-stocked set of mechanic's tools add at least $ 1/4 million dollars in machines and tooling for them, plus a heated building, a phone line, 3-phase power of some sort, advertising so you actually know where to find this shop and an experienced machinist who is there from at least 8am until at least 5pm Monday thru Friday ready to take your job at a moment's notice. Now you have a basic machine shop.

On the most basic level, to put things into perspective let's make a comparison. The staple endmill in most machine shops is the 3/4" rougher which costs Between $80 and $300 each depending on brand, material, type, etc. That's about as much as a new Snap-On ratchet. Here's the catch: That endmill has a lifespan measured in hours and it has no warranty. When it is used up it gets thrown in the trash. Imagine throwing all your Snap-On ratchets in the trash at the end of each day and pulling new ones out of your well-stocked tooling cabinet in the morning.

These reasons and more are why it costs money to get things made.
 

A_Pmech

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I got a Parker 974 that I am restoring right now. For me, I dont think I could pay more than $100 for a new set of jaws. I picked up the unit on CL for $60 and put about another $20 on tools/paint into it. The cost of the jaws is gonna be worth more then the value of my restored vise in my opinion. However, I am contemplating sending in my old jaws to get recheckered.

That's a funny argument... $100 for the rebuilt vise plus $250 for the jaws = functionally new vise for $350. A new 4" Wilton swivel is $507.30 from McMaster and you KNOW if Parker was still around they would charge double that!

You can't expect to apply yard sale pricing to new parts!
 

SwampCat

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May 15, 2009
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Take a look around your garage. Add up in your head the value of all your toolboxes, wrenches, screwdrivers, sockets, welders, pipe wrenches, hand drills, etc. Realize that a machine shop requires all these hand tools as a bare bones basic necessity.

On top of a well-stocked set of mechanic's tools add at least $ 1/4 million dollars in machines and tooling for them, plus a heated building, a phone line, 3-phase power of some sort, advertising so you actually know where to find this shop and an experienced machinist who is there from at least 8am until at least 5pm Monday thru Friday ready to take your job at a moment's notice. Now you have a basic machine shop.

On the most basic level, to put things into perspective let's make a comparison. The staple endmill in most machine shops is the 3/4" rougher which costs Between $80 and $300 each depending on brand, material, type, etc. That's about as much as a new Snap-On ratchet. Here's the catch: That endmill has a lifespan measured in hours and it has no warranty. When it is used up it gets thrown in the trash. Imagine throwing all your Snap-On ratchets in the trash at the end of each day and pulling new ones out of your well-stocked tooling cabinet in the morning.

These reasons and more are why it costs money to get things made.

This is why I thank my lucky stars for my neighbor with his Bridgeport and his ole time Monarch lathe. Together with the other neighbor, who is a MAJOR cutting tool Rep. Boy get these 2 together and the CHIPS JUST FLY. Did I say how LUCKY I am ?:thumbup::bowdown:
 

IanG

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That's a funny argument... $100 for the rebuilt vise plus $250 for the jaws = functionally new vise for $350. A new 4" Wilton swivel is $507.30 from McMaster and you KNOW if Parker was still around they would charge double that!

You can't expect to apply yard sale pricing to new parts!

I think its a fair price just currently with the country's/personal economic situation, I just couldnt justify it. I am thinking of just getting my current one's recheckered. Luckily I got another Hollands vise where the jaws are in better shape. The only problem is that the Hollands jaws are non-replaceable.
 

pro machine Engineering

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Location
kansas
Take a look around your garage. Add up in your head the value of all your toolboxes, wrenches, screwdrivers, sockets, welders, pipe wrenches, hand drills, etc. Realize that a machine shop requires all these hand tools as a bare bones basic necessity.

On top of a well-stocked set of mechanic's tools add at least $ 1/4 million dollars in machines and tooling for them, plus a heated building, a phone line, 3-phase power of some sort, advertising so you actually know where to find this shop and an experienced machinist who is there from at least 8am until at least 5pm Monday thru Friday ready to take your job at a moment's notice. Now you have a basic machine shop.

On the most basic level, to put things into perspective let's make a comparison. The staple endmill in most machine shops is the 3/4" rougher which costs Between $80 and $300 each depending on brand, material, type, etc. That's about as much as a new Snap-On ratchet. Here's the catch: That endmill has a lifespan measured in hours and it has no warranty. When it is used up it gets thrown in the trash. Imagine throwing all your Snap-On ratchets in the trash at the end of each day and pulling new ones out of your well-stocked tooling cabinet in the morning.

These reasons and more are why it costs money to get things made.

Very well said. I am a full time shop. Most people dont realize the expense of what it takes to manufacture a part. I use MasterCam as my CAD/Cam software that alone is $15000 yes 3 zero software I dont own it is non transferable so if I go out of business it is worthless.. I just pay for the liscense to use it. Then its $1500.00 a year for suport and updates. If I was able to make these out of aluminum I could charge far less. Because tool life is longer. I do all the cad/cam work and most generally run the machines. I do have part time help when needed. Its not a 40 hour week and sleep is not good. When you work for yourself you got to keep bringing in work while running the work you have. I have worked in the machining world for 25 plus years. I finally got out on my own a year ago. I cant complain about how the first year went as it was a lot better than planned. It is a dog eat dog world when fabricating. You are competing for work with the chinese that use slave labor. The retired ole guy with a small machine using a pirated copy of mastercam drawing retirement. Looking for a little work to pass the time. So it gets ugly. While I offer the wilton style jaws at $55.00 a set they have far less work and tooling involved. I have been told factory replacement wilton jaws are $180 a set. I havent confirmed this but have been told by several that this was what was quoted them from wilton. If this is the case just think what a set of factory parker vise jaws would cost if they was still in business.
 
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