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I Made A Mess

red vette mike

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I put down the first coat of the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy today. This was after cleaning, etching per their instructions. Mixed mechanically the Part A & B per their instructions and then mechanically mixed those together. I used 2 kits on the 750+/- sq ft that I coated. Used the recommended 3/8th inch roller. The end result is a coating that is much too thin in places and then much too thick in others. I had planned to do a second coat anyway but, for me, this is not an option. I have to try to straighten up this mess. I guess that I put the material down too thin to begin with and then perhaps a bit too thick later on. There are 'dry' looking spots. Maybe it will look ok after the second coat. Will advise.
Mike
 
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boiler7904

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I would let it set up over night and then walk the floor tomorrow. It may not be as bad as you're thinking. If you have some areas that are definitely covered light, I would hit them first when putting on the second coat. Once the light spots are coated a second time, cover the entire floor with one even coat. Aside from that, I don't really know what you'd be able to fix this short of removing the entire coating and starting over.
 

snorvet

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red vette,

It should be ok after the second coat. mine was very thin everywhere after the first coat and the second coat really covered well. do what boiler said - maybe apply the second coat a bit thicker in your thin spots.
 

PAToyota

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I'd be careful about applying epoxy to certain spots rather than a full coat everywhere. I tried that when I did mine - there were a couple spots where the roller went "dry" and I figured that I'd fill in before the second coat. Those areas are "raised" now and look like patches.
 
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red vette mike

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snorvet said:
red vette,

It should be ok after the second coat. mine was very thin everywhere after the first coat and the second coat really covered well. do what boiler said - maybe apply the second coat a bit thicker in your thin spots.

I panicked a bit early on my floor. The second coat made things look a lot better. The lesson learned, for me at least, is to put this stuff on pretty thick to begin with. This is not like painting a wall where you are trying to get a thin covering. I layed it on pretty thick this morning on an area that I did not do yesterday. It looked much better than the previous day's work. I used the flakes and found that you can use a small measuring cup that has a handle (borrowed from my spouse-she will never know) to sprinkle the flakes onto the wet areas. Rustoleum says to do a 4'x4' area and then sprinkle the flakes. I was doing an area that was probably 6'x3' (it is hard to reach 4' over). The cup seemed to do better for me than tossing the flakes in the air.
A couple of other lessons: the material in the cans is really congealed on the bottom of the cans. It is pretty hard to get it up off the bottom. I found that using a drill with an agitator was really mandantory. The Part B is the toughest to get to mix up (for me). I mixed it up 2-5 minutes, poured aboout 1/2 can of B into a 5 gallon can and then mixed a bit more with less material in the Part B can (prevents overflows). The Part A mixes better. Then I agitated for 4-5 minutes with the A and B combined. I feel that you need to use some sort of respirator while working with this stuff-the fumes are pretty strong. Last lesson: don't do this when the "Lovebugs" are in season. Those are bugs that show up twice a year down here. About 100-200 flew in and landed on the first coat. I got them off the following morning but I was real unhappy with those d___ bugs.
Mike
 

boiler7904

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red vette mike said:
I panicked a bit early on my floor. The second coat made things look a lot better....Last lesson: don't do this when the "Lovebugs" are in season. Those are bugs that show up twice a year down here. About 100-200 flew in and landed on the first coat.
Mike

Good to hear that the second coat worked out for you.

Another lesson that should be added to your list: Apply each coat before you mow the yard. My yard was mowed on a friday afternoon. I had little pieces of grass blowing in the door on saturday and sunday while the color coats dried. I had to pick them out before doing the following coat. No problems on monday with the clear though.

P.S. I think you're at the point in your project when you owe us some updated pics - interior and exterior.
 
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red vette mike

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Boiler: I have been taking plenty of pictures but am so computer impaired that I need some help getting them onto this site. My friend is suppose to get by here late this week and help me get some photos onto this site. I started on April 16 and just about through now-with the floor almost done.
Thanks for your help on the floor.
Mike
 
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red vette mike

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To give a bit more information on my experiences with the application of the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy-the floor is nearly dry now although I won't walk on it until in the morning. I am unhappy about a couple of things. The first is that you can see many of the paint roller 'brush strokes' that I made when putting down the second coat. I tried to put the epoxy on real thick but I also tried as best I could to keep the material level. Not only can you see many of the brush strokes but the various thicknesses of the epoxy is somewhat evident. I mentioned that I did not get the first coat on thick enough- it was evident that some areas were thicker than others. I felt the second coat would even this out as I tried to put the second coat on as evenly as I could. I am not sure how I could have avoided the fact that many of the roller brush strokes are visible. I have seen some folks on this forum say that they used a squeegie to put down the product. Rustoleum says to use a roller (I think). Maybe a squeegie would have been better. I put down the paint on a small area and then sprinkled the flakes into the wet paint. These flakes make the surface somewhat rough-rough enough that you would never need the antislip compound that they sell. It might be a different story if you added their clear to the floor.
Regardless, the floor looks pretty good-much, much better than plain old concrete. The stuff is tough. I showed my wife a hardened drop of the epoxy paint and it is tough-like a hard plastic. I believe it will offer some 'cushioning' effect also. I am glad I did it although I don't think I appled it exactly correctly causing the problems discussed above. One is always one's biggest critic and many of the imperfections I mention above will not be easily visible to someone else.
 

Winmon

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With the Rustoleum, you really do need 2 coats. My 1st coat looked more like a primer. The 2nd really brought it to life. Congrats on your new floor!!
 

Winmon

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can see many of the paint roller 'brush strokes'

Mine did the same thing. I really do not know how it can be avoided. I call them "lap marks".

One is always one's biggest critic and many of the imperfections I mention

That is one problem with the epoxy, I find myself looking at the imperfections also. In my old garage with a plain concrete floor, I could not tell what it even looked like!
 
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bmwpower

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Re: roller marks....you're either using the material near the end of its pot life or you're putting it on too thick (or you need some practice with your roller technique, but it's hard to get a perfect finish with epoxy).
 
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boiler7904

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2 kits should cover 750 sf. Each coat will require 2 kits though the second coat will go farther out of one kit. My garage is right at 400 sf and took just under 1 kit per coat.

Rust Oleum is right. Muriatic acid and steel are a bad combination. The acid will eat the building.
 

wilbilt

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I used to know a guy that painted tennis courts and shop floors using a squeegee. The end result was a very smooth stroke-free finish. Has anyone tried that with epoxy?
 

boiler7904

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wilbilt said:
I used to know a guy that painted tennis courts and shop floors using a squeegee. The end result was a very smooth stroke-free finish. Has anyone tried that with epoxy?

If I remember right, the Rust Oleum instructions specifically say not to use a squeegee. I would think that you'd get a real thin coating.

I used 1/4" Wooster Epoxy-safe rollers on my floor and am very happy with the results. The floor is very smooth with an even sheen* and has no roller lap marks. I applied the material in 3x3 areas across the floor. Once I got half way across the floor, I went back to the beginning of the row and rolled the entire row with absolutely no pressure and added no epoxy. It seamed to even out the finish. After each row was rolled the second time, I went back and added the flakes.

* I missed a couple of small places when I did my clear coat that I couldn't tell until after I was done and cleaned up. They aren't real noticeable to anyone but me. It's just annoying.
 
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red vette mike

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I had only the raised, 5'x25' area left to do out of a total of about 1200 feet that I coated. I thought that I would lay the stuff on real thick and get done with one coat. So I layed on it real thick and added the flakes. Bad idea. I should have known better-in fact, I did know better-I did it anyway. The one coat just does not cover well-even really laying it on thick. I will have to put on one final coat on the area. The epoxy does cover up the existing flakes or those that spill over onto an unpainted surface (at least it does for me.) I'll be an expert on this deal bdfore it is over-having made every mistake one could make. Live and learn. The floor does look good.
 

FL_Javelin

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SW Florida
*sigh*

Nearly everything I've read here says 2 coats, which I have no doubt is true since you guys experienced this. This flooring project cost has doubled. Rustoleum knows this I am sure even though they say:

"Only one coat is necessary. If a second coat is desired,
see chart 2 at right for recoat times."

I guess one coat works but it looks like ****! Plus I have to rent a grinder since my garage is all metal. (no acid)

Sorry to b1tch but I had to rant (feels better now) :rant:
 

Kingham

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OK.... no mater what product you use (regardless what they all say).....To get a great result on any type of coatings you MUST do more than one coat.

do you paint your car with only one coat?


1st coat:

look at it as a primer coat. put on very thin.. just to cover up the bare concrete.. its ok to have a very dull and rough finish. just as long as you have product covering the concrete.

after first coat has dried.. check for imperfections you missed during prep (cracks, divits etc) and repair. use caulk for fine lines, bondo for large divits etc. Use just enough to cover imperfection. take you time and do it right.

roller marks can be sanded down using 80-100 grit sand paper. do this lightly. clean up with vac and wipe down clean with denatured alcohal. Do not use alot of DA. just enough to dampen the floor or you will pull up the epoxy.

second coat and rolling techniqes:

you can do this much thicker.. after mixing... start from back wall and move to the door.

You need to haul **** but being carefull enough not to make a mess
this is where having a partner (or two) will be needed. We use one guy to cut in and one guy to roll. while the one guy is rolling and the cut in guy is waiting, I usually have him throwing chips (see technique below)

Cut in all verticals before doing the floor.

horizontals:
Cut in with a brush the back and the sides. only cut in the sides about 5 feet. do the whole back of garage width.

pour a line of epoxy across the floor about 3' back from the back wall. the line should be approximately 6 to 8" wide.

start rolling in a zig zag pattern to spread the epoxy evenly acrossed the floor Up to where you stopped cutting in (5') or so.

After the initial spreading of epoxy, start from one side and "back roll" the epoxy by starting from the back wall and pulling the roller towards you (don't push roller back). Pick up the roller and move to the back wall, over lap the roller 1/4 of the width of the roller of the last line and repeat until you have gone all the way across the floor. when you move the roller try to feather the roller by putting less weight on the roller the 1/4 of the overlap. this will reduce roller marks. Repeat by cutting in another 5' or so and doing another line, zig zag and back roll.


Tip for the chips: always order more chips than needed (if you can).

the secret to getting an even spread of chips is to use spikes to walk over the epoxy and spread the chips like a fairy spreading fairy dust (yeah I know)

black_shoes.jpg


Shewin williams carries them as well you can order from Midwest rake company


grab a 5gal bucket and fill it half way with the chips. after doing the whole width of the garage and about 10 feet back. walk over the epoxy you just rolled with your spikes on and play fairy princes and lightly throw the chips in the air for them to fall down on you wet epoxy. Be very carfull wearing the spikes because you can slip and gouge the epoxy If you do this just back roll over the gouge.

Do the whole floor this way. and when done rolling walk back over entire garage and flake where you have missed to get a more consistant chip coverage.

3rd coat:

Clear coat over chips using the same rolling technique as stated above.


This should give you the finish your looking for.

IT's only paint..... if you screw it up the first time. you can always recoat it again...
 
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mjohnson327

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BOGALUSA, LA
Mike, What is a love bug?Just kidding.I am getting ready for Cruisin The Coast and they are one of my main concerns.They can wreak havic on a paint job.
 

z28toz06

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With the Rustoleum, you really do need 2 coats. My 1st coat looked more like a primer. The 2nd really brought it to life. Congrats on your new floor!!

Mine too. I can still see a few roller marks, but It looks good and when you start filling it up I doubt you will notice it.
 
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