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I messed pretty good this time

gygeneral

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Dec 13, 2011
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Ok I wired a new 220v 40amp stove plug per the drawing attached. I went ahead and pluged my stove in, everything came up then when I looked again it was dead. I mean the clock display was out. I checked both heating elements in the oven and no continuity. BTW everything worked before. So can someone explain the effect it would have to the stove circuity. I have since corrected the wiring but my oven not working. I think I probably blew out the display and looks like the lements also. Please explain so I can learn
 

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Terry D

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Ok I wired a new 220v 40amp stove plug per the drawing attached. I went ahead and pluged my stove in, everything came up then when I looked again it was dead. I mean the clock display was out. I checked both heating elements in the oven and no continuity. BTW everything worked before. So can someone explain the effect it would have to the stove circuity. I have since corrected the wiring but my oven not working. I think I probably blew out the display and looks like the lements also. Please explain so I can learn
You have your white and black switched. You possibly fried something in the stove. You sent 240 volts on the things that needed 120 volt. Someone gave you a wrong drawing

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

Milton Shaw

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Feb 11, 2011
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Elements are hard to blow from hookup problems. Elements run on 240 volt and the switches cycle them on and off to get the various heat levels. Probably got the transformer and control board as they may have operated on 120 volt and you sent them 240 volt. That would also get just about any light bulb on the stove also. Some stoves the board only switches the 120 to the elements and the other line voltage goes directly to the element 100% of the time. This lets an element short and keep burning until you turn the breaker off. Should be a wiring diagram somewhere on the stove either in the control area or remove the drawer and look for one taped to the case.
 

klassenl

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Southern Alberta
I went to a dryer that was wired like this. The customer complained that their appliance wasn't working right. I opened the plug and expected the worst. Once I corrected the wiring the dryer worked.
Sometimes you get lucky.
 

Dumber than lumber

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Dec 19, 2015
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The board in our range blew out about 12 years ago. I think it was lightning damage The range was just a couple of years old. We managed to find a replacement board at Sears Parts online.
Range is still functioning. Boy i miss the great service and parts availability we used to get from Sears Parts.
 
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gygeneral

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thanks everyone. I understand now that I probably sent 220v somewhere where it didn't like that. The oven is 16 yrs old, were waiting for our new one to come in. I'm so glad we moved the old unit in the new kitchen while waiting, if we had not of done this I would of damaged the new unit. Some good came of this in a way. Lesson learned, should have checked the receptacle with a multimeter after wiring it up.
 

Bert_

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rlitman

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The fuse is there to prevent a fire. The electronics will fry faster than most fuses.

MAYBE, but more likely not. I'd check the fuses first. Most solid state electronics have no problems handling 10x their rated currents, so long as the current is pulsed. They usually fail due to thermal destruction.
 
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gygeneral

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I've checked the breaker in the panel and also replaced both 15A fuses in the top of the unit, unless there are other fuses that I don't know about, I think its done
 

rlitman

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I've checked the breaker in the panel and also replaced both 15A fuses in the top of the unit, unless there are other fuses that I don't know about, I think its done

Look on the board itself. It may have a glass barrel fuse or even an automotive ATC style fuse on it.
 

mike93lx

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MAYBE, but more likely not. I'd check the fuses first. Most solid state electronics have no problems handling 10x their rated currents, so long as the current is pulsed. They usually fail due to thermal destruction.

Plus a fuse won't protect against the wrong voltage.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Plus a fuse won't protect against the wrong voltage.

beat me to it.

Ive never seen a fuse, especially glass fuses, rated for the nameplate voltage. typically they are rated for a lot higher voltage and only purpose is for overcurrent protection.
 
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thewatusi

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What do I win? :beer:

The-price-is-right.jpg
 

rlitman

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Plus a fuse won't protect against the wrong voltage.

Fuses are certainly not intended to protect against the wrong voltage, and they do only react to overcurrent, but they are still [supposed to be] designed to be the weakest link in a circuit. Otherwise you'd be using a circuit breaker and not a fuse.

In the example of most modern electronics, where line voltage goes through a switching power supply to low voltage circuit boards, the power supply will have a capacitor and fuse fed by line voltage. Doubling the voltage input will double the inrush current to charge the cap, making it likely that the fuse will blow. If you're lucky (and as I pointed out above, most solid state electronics handle pulsed power rather well), nothing else will fail. If not, then just the power supply (usually a cheap part) will take the brunt of the damage, with the easily fuse stopping it before it takes out everything downstream.

beat me to it.

Ive never seen a fuse, especially glass fuses, rated for the nameplate voltage. typically they are rated for a lot higher voltage and only purpose is for overcurrent protection.

I don't need to tell you, but just for other people reading this, the voltage rating on a fuse has just about nothing to do with stopping voltage. Fuses should be rated for the highest voltage they may encounter, since using too low a rated fuse could lead to internal arcing (i.e. failure to open when intended).
 
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