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I need a better extension cord...
- Thread starter Don1357
- Start date
BlakeTheCarGuy
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have several at my house they are just the orange one don’t know any names we have had them since I have been alive lol one of them is flat so it fits under doors a lot easier the rest are just the orange round ones that feel strong I had no idea there was different ones like for the amps and stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
sberry
Banned
I bet making isnt the cheapest especially for people not in the biz. I dont make that stuff, I buy it, ready made end, open it, plug in. I did a job a little while ago and wanted 2 25 ft 12's, Menards had some on sale for 15$
sberry
Banned
A couple things here. 1 is I only respond to what I read and my response in only in general and somewhat theoretical and not really shot at anyone, its just the nature of the forum and debate.
2nd,,, the reason I use 8 A and 25 ft as a reference is that its a more typical lo0ad for most people most of the time but all the supposition seems to be based on 100 ft and 20A Look at it,,, I only usae a 12, anything less doesnt have a place in my world etc. The true loads even heavy ones for most people could be served thru 50 ft of 14 without any repercussions and the cost annalist is simply to point it out when,,,, it dont cost that much more,,,, making the point is all.
My neighbor has a heavy reel and its a great idea where and what he does. But everyone doesnt need it. I do a lot of stuff, if it works for me I suspect it will work for most others. I got 35 cords, 3 of them 12, a couple pieces 14 and 30 of them 16. Managed to work all day without dragging a 12 around.
Miller Maxstar pulls 20 at 90 out and runs ok to 150 ft of 12, runs it good, cant tell. At 200 it will trip the breaker above 75A
The tool failure we see from under power is rather rare and almost always involves trouble lights with comps and welders plugged in to them, really long runs of 16. I bet almost none where operator stepped up 1 size to 14 and most real problems in excess of 150 ft.
If I aint mistaken they might allow 50x14 for a 140 feeder?
2nd,,, the reason I use 8 A and 25 ft as a reference is that its a more typical lo0ad for most people most of the time but all the supposition seems to be based on 100 ft and 20A Look at it,,, I only usae a 12, anything less doesnt have a place in my world etc. The true loads even heavy ones for most people could be served thru 50 ft of 14 without any repercussions and the cost annalist is simply to point it out when,,,, it dont cost that much more,,,, making the point is all.
My neighbor has a heavy reel and its a great idea where and what he does. But everyone doesnt need it. I do a lot of stuff, if it works for me I suspect it will work for most others. I got 35 cords, 3 of them 12, a couple pieces 14 and 30 of them 16. Managed to work all day without dragging a 12 around.
Miller Maxstar pulls 20 at 90 out and runs ok to 150 ft of 12, runs it good, cant tell. At 200 it will trip the breaker above 75A
The tool failure we see from under power is rather rare and almost always involves trouble lights with comps and welders plugged in to them, really long runs of 16. I bet almost none where operator stepped up 1 size to 14 and most real problems in excess of 150 ft.
If I aint mistaken they might allow 50x14 for a 140 feeder?
Honestly just go buy some SOOW cord and ends and make your own...anything long runs or heavy use get this. Sure I have some pre-fab cheapies but they're all still 12 gauge cords.
While DJing I ended up with a good collection of power distro equipment.
While DJing I ended up with a good collection of power distro equipment.
Lucid Moments
Well-known member
I honestly don't know what gauge most of my cords are, but suspect only one of them is 12 and the rest are 14. But then all the 14 gauge wires are 25ft cords because most of my work is done in the shop and am never more than 25ft from an outlet. The one longer cord is 50ft and that is the one I think is 12 gauge. That is only the larger gauge because it is longer.
toolmanmark
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 31
I use alot of 16 gauge cords with all of the battery maintainers I put on the trucks and tractors through the winter. Most times 25' 16 gauge or 50' foot 14 gauge for general use.
sberry
Banned
I will agree the op needs a better cord. He needs a better cord not necessarily the best. Most serious mechanics have sufficient tools and this is one many might need on occasion. But this guy doesnt sound like he is becoming a pole barn contractor over night.
75 or 100 ft is too light for loaded motor starting at that distance, especially with a cheap possibly older comp, those thoings are notorious anyway especially as they age. At 100 ft a 12 is probably the way to fly especially since he likely cant compare. At 75 a 14 starts most of this just dandy. If the tool comes with a 12,,,, very rare,,, then it needs a 12 but right off I cant recall anything I own came factory with one.
Right off can only think of 3 things even come 14, a chop saw, a welder and a small comp. There might be something else but would have to ponder it a while. And as for the rest of it,, 2 or 3 services worth,, 25 panels, 300 breakers, 400 service (which I could have done fine on 200) the only thing I own and rarely use that would overheat a 10 wire is a 300 Synchro that I rarely use. Dont own a 6 extension cord.
Those ready made 8 welder cords are the way to fly with that. The price is right and unless it was free would buy before making. I had a guy work for me was about compulsive about loss, v drop, pressure loss, recovered materials. All of it. He was an early mentor and it took me a while to get past that and copy other old timers in regards to acceptable performance.
I got a bud, started his career threading steel, 50 years later in plumbing still has the same 1/2 air line and another master still uses a 10 cable to his 225 40 yrs ago when he copied another basic installation. These are masters, could have any of it for free but they size near common code,,, which while it is the minimum in regards to wire it doesnt mean its inadequate, wire and pipe sizes are good and peak and some parasitic like lights gone down. There is more equipment but less 28A motors, a few more 22, welding peak has gone down which is so intermittent its irrelevant.
Another thing to the nature of the op question is the nature of the question and what should have been solid advice.
1,, how far is it. He fundamentally included number 2 is what type a comp and another hugely relevant for the truly genius is how long is the circuit extension its on. 3rd,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Cost is important, it really is despite some big spenders. One big reason is you can afford more new or replacement if the cost is reasonable vs a fukkin gut wrenching saving and shopping project. We got some here so smart they earn enough it really doesnt matter, their work numbs them to real cost and return on investment. The fuggin world has changed and there is a whole level of adequate equipment to do almost anything that in a real economic sense,,,, is it worth it??????????? NOOOOOOO its not.
Doesnt mean its bad to want better or more but the standard has risen to the point the math is obvious. Its a different question than how someone feels about it. Could take a Stanley pro wrench today and stamp it Snapon and the user couldnt tell, hand them to critical people that knew nothing about the brand and they the same,,, I can put 10 adjustables on a table, have them judged on fit, feel all of it, the generic China now comes out on top. Despite the test, despite the history there are always some can reason a way around it.
How ever it took me a couple tries to get to look under the skin till I new what to look for and could get the same 14$ toaster that the rest of the line was based on all the way up to 89$.
Sure you can buy a better cord even in same gage and a large cord is worth a repair end at some point unlike the compulsive saver using up all my hi dollar replacements on damaged 16 cords and setting up simply using one as a whip where exposed to damage. One of my cord regrets was in a drug store, had a whole sale box of 10 ft orange 3 conductor, 2$, I bought 2 or 3 and should have spent 25 on them.
In the end one piece of 12 that hangs on the wall and 1 I carry on the truck with welder is all I need for 120 and a couple pieces of 10, got a short and a long does it all. Use 100 ft 16 once in a while.
Whats that got to do with anything or point 4? The value added advice
75 or 100 ft is too light for loaded motor starting at that distance, especially with a cheap possibly older comp, those thoings are notorious anyway especially as they age. At 100 ft a 12 is probably the way to fly especially since he likely cant compare. At 75 a 14 starts most of this just dandy. If the tool comes with a 12,,,, very rare,,, then it needs a 12 but right off I cant recall anything I own came factory with one.
Right off can only think of 3 things even come 14, a chop saw, a welder and a small comp. There might be something else but would have to ponder it a while. And as for the rest of it,, 2 or 3 services worth,, 25 panels, 300 breakers, 400 service (which I could have done fine on 200) the only thing I own and rarely use that would overheat a 10 wire is a 300 Synchro that I rarely use. Dont own a 6 extension cord.
Those ready made 8 welder cords are the way to fly with that. The price is right and unless it was free would buy before making. I had a guy work for me was about compulsive about loss, v drop, pressure loss, recovered materials. All of it. He was an early mentor and it took me a while to get past that and copy other old timers in regards to acceptable performance.
I got a bud, started his career threading steel, 50 years later in plumbing still has the same 1/2 air line and another master still uses a 10 cable to his 225 40 yrs ago when he copied another basic installation. These are masters, could have any of it for free but they size near common code,,, which while it is the minimum in regards to wire it doesnt mean its inadequate, wire and pipe sizes are good and peak and some parasitic like lights gone down. There is more equipment but less 28A motors, a few more 22, welding peak has gone down which is so intermittent its irrelevant.
Another thing to the nature of the op question is the nature of the question and what should have been solid advice.
1,, how far is it. He fundamentally included number 2 is what type a comp and another hugely relevant for the truly genius is how long is the circuit extension its on. 3rd,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Cost is important, it really is despite some big spenders. One big reason is you can afford more new or replacement if the cost is reasonable vs a fukkin gut wrenching saving and shopping project. We got some here so smart they earn enough it really doesnt matter, their work numbs them to real cost and return on investment. The fuggin world has changed and there is a whole level of adequate equipment to do almost anything that in a real economic sense,,,, is it worth it??????????? NOOOOOOO its not.
Doesnt mean its bad to want better or more but the standard has risen to the point the math is obvious. Its a different question than how someone feels about it. Could take a Stanley pro wrench today and stamp it Snapon and the user couldnt tell, hand them to critical people that knew nothing about the brand and they the same,,, I can put 10 adjustables on a table, have them judged on fit, feel all of it, the generic China now comes out on top. Despite the test, despite the history there are always some can reason a way around it.
How ever it took me a couple tries to get to look under the skin till I new what to look for and could get the same 14$ toaster that the rest of the line was based on all the way up to 89$.
Sure you can buy a better cord even in same gage and a large cord is worth a repair end at some point unlike the compulsive saver using up all my hi dollar replacements on damaged 16 cords and setting up simply using one as a whip where exposed to damage. One of my cord regrets was in a drug store, had a whole sale box of 10 ft orange 3 conductor, 2$, I bought 2 or 3 and should have spent 25 on them.
In the end one piece of 12 that hangs on the wall and 1 I carry on the truck with welder is all I need for 120 and a couple pieces of 10, got a short and a long does it all. Use 100 ft 16 once in a while.
Whats that got to do with anything or point 4? The value added advice
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sberry
Banned
Whats that got to do with anything or point 4? The value added advice collectively here to the op should be. At 75 ft a 14 could work fine for that unit, if I ran it regular and wanted to get past this, didnt mind some extra cost and weight a 100 ft 12 cord has its place.
Now, put charge card in hand, go in to a big box store and or HF which despite contrary to belief sells a lot of brand and semi brand that people buy every day saying Napa on it etc and cruize the shelves a little and see what they got.
I am semi interested so glance on occasion and once in a while I am really surprised some deals so good I am tempted to buy one and I dont even need it.
They got so many models and brands and HF has sourced well with this, its good stuff, never had a bad hose from them. They got what people want and need. They usually got 2 now, cheaper and better and in the case of cords its the jacket for handling. If you gonna put it out all summer , leave it lay then handling not such an issue, you wind it up weekly or daily then its a bit different matter as is some further investigation in size and length.
I have heard in similar threads,,, my mother inlaw wants to blow the flower bed and a little weed whack and the advice has been to head down to the industrial district and get 100 ft of SO and some ends and I got to wonder,,, not that it wouldnt work buy wtf, I can just see this woman with a 30$BD blower a 100$ plus cord weighs 65# over her shoulder run off like a fireman.
Now, put charge card in hand, go in to a big box store and or HF which despite contrary to belief sells a lot of brand and semi brand that people buy every day saying Napa on it etc and cruize the shelves a little and see what they got.
I am semi interested so glance on occasion and once in a while I am really surprised some deals so good I am tempted to buy one and I dont even need it.
They got so many models and brands and HF has sourced well with this, its good stuff, never had a bad hose from them. They got what people want and need. They usually got 2 now, cheaper and better and in the case of cords its the jacket for handling. If you gonna put it out all summer , leave it lay then handling not such an issue, you wind it up weekly or daily then its a bit different matter as is some further investigation in size and length.
I have heard in similar threads,,, my mother inlaw wants to blow the flower bed and a little weed whack and the advice has been to head down to the industrial district and get 100 ft of SO and some ends and I got to wonder,,, not that it wouldnt work buy wtf, I can just see this woman with a 30$BD blower a 100$ plus cord weighs 65# over her shoulder run off like a fireman.
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My Dad only bought the cheapest 16-18g extension cords. It took me way to long to figure out heavier gauge is worth the money in less aggravation. The day I chucked my first junky 18g cord was a great day. 16g followed. I'm now 80% 12g cords of all lengths and they were worth every penny.
sberry
Banned
Even lamp cord is 16, good for 1000 watts. It took me a while to make it almost instinctual to size a cord. There are a couple steps to it though. Short circuit is really already designed in to it thru the plug type system but there is thermal and performance. Length effects performance. Might effect short circuit if its too light and long.
In the case of a comp the cord should be sized for the motor but to include a safty factor for continuous run. If there is a leak unattended could run forever, cord should be big enough not to overheat. It would take some work to figure out exactly where V drop would be detrimental to something like that but if it starts a cycle or 2 slower for occasional use how much does it matter? It would be different for a roofing contractor. I talk to one a while back, he had some little beater comp, said,,,, every day for 3 years so far and had 5 on the one before it just like it. Aint no way joe hometime ever gonna run it like that and we see them fail on this forum and most of the stories start with,,, I had it 20+ years and used it a lot.
Most of these little comps are sold on the concept they can run on a 15 circuit. I got a little thing says it makes 2. something cfm,, might even come 16 cord. The best of them draw around 13 run,, they do need the headroom of a 20 breaker for starts. There is quite a leap from 16 to 14.
I have put meters on all kinds of machines. AC buzzers for one. They allow 12 on a 50A for them but they droop a lot, 15V maybe, move to 10 only 3 or 4 and when you go to 8 only a couple v but the operator cant tell the difference between 8 and 10,,, a little on the 12, cant tell the difference between 10 and 6,,, after a point the losses are irrelevant but getting along to 100 ft start to creep back up some.
In the case of a comp the cord should be sized for the motor but to include a safty factor for continuous run. If there is a leak unattended could run forever, cord should be big enough not to overheat. It would take some work to figure out exactly where V drop would be detrimental to something like that but if it starts a cycle or 2 slower for occasional use how much does it matter? It would be different for a roofing contractor. I talk to one a while back, he had some little beater comp, said,,,, every day for 3 years so far and had 5 on the one before it just like it. Aint no way joe hometime ever gonna run it like that and we see them fail on this forum and most of the stories start with,,, I had it 20+ years and used it a lot.
Most of these little comps are sold on the concept they can run on a 15 circuit. I got a little thing says it makes 2. something cfm,, might even come 16 cord. The best of them draw around 13 run,, they do need the headroom of a 20 breaker for starts. There is quite a leap from 16 to 14.
I have put meters on all kinds of machines. AC buzzers for one. They allow 12 on a 50A for them but they droop a lot, 15V maybe, move to 10 only 3 or 4 and when you go to 8 only a couple v but the operator cant tell the difference between 8 and 10,,, a little on the 12, cant tell the difference between 10 and 6,,, after a point the losses are irrelevant but getting along to 100 ft start to creep back up some.
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jeffmoss26
Well-known member
This is another good source https://www.badassextensioncords.co...o5ZyOPZ3bSpu0Ej9H5aQhLbYvy6xrxFBoCykwQAvD_BwE
Noworries
Banned
I wouldn't own a 16AWG extension anything.
A little story....
About 22 years ago I was working on my radial arm saw.....old Craftsman type. I was trying to figure out why it would not spin up to speed.
As part of my troubleshooting, I took off the blade. It spun up to speed nicely.
Next, I put the blade back on without the shield. Being lazy I only hand tightened the nut.
A couple of start/stop cycles and it was obvious the issue was related to the load of the blade.
During the power down I noticed the nut was coming off....and the blade was following it.
Now you know why I'll never own a 16AWG extension cord again.
Sooo.. you hand tightened the nut on a saw blade, one that spins at about 3500rpm, turned it on and off a couple of times.. blade launches off and its the extension cords fault? Where did you buy the cord Harbor Freight??
ttpete
Well-known member
Buy a length of 12-3 SO cord, however much you need, then buy quality plugs and receptacles from either Hubbell or Leviton and put them on the cord. Molded-on ends **** big time.
Noworries
Banned
Sooo... am I the only one with 10ga cords?? 20', 30' and 50 ' use them for pretty much all my tools if the run is over 10 feet.
ricleh
Well-known member
Sooo... am I the only one with 10ga cords?? 20', 30' and 50 ' use them for pretty much all my tools if the run is over 10 feet.
I have 4 50' and 2 100' and all are 10 gauge. I made them myself with Leviton male plug and Leviton 2 gang pendant style plastic outlet box.
For those that are suggesting to use a length of SO cord.....
IF.... you take the cord off your property to job sites with other workers there, I would suggest purchasing an odd length of cable. I have some I made at 45 feet long. I have never had an issue BUT if some one was to try to claim it, it makes it pretty distinguishable. "Hey, that's my 50' cord". "No it isn't". "How can you tell it's yours"? "It's not 50' long"!
IF.... you take the cord off your property to job sites with other workers there, I would suggest purchasing an odd length of cable. I have some I made at 45 feet long. I have never had an issue BUT if some one was to try to claim it, it makes it pretty distinguishable. "Hey, that's my 50' cord". "No it isn't". "How can you tell it's yours"? "It's not 50' long"!
redmondjp
Well-known member
For those that are suggesting to use a length of SO cord.....
IF.... you take the cord off your property to job sites with other workers there, I would suggest purchasing an odd length of cable. I have some I made at 45 feet long. I have never had an issue BUT if some one was to try to claim it, it makes it pretty distinguishable. "Hey, that's my 50' cord". "No it isn't". "How can you tell it's yours"? "It's not 50' long"!
In my neck of the woods, you can't use home-made extension cords on the jobsite. You can't even use one if it has a replacement end (albeit even if that end is of higher quality than the factory one). It's stupid, but them's the rules.
AFSOC
Well-known member
I suffered economy extension cords and "over weight" heavy extensions for years. Now I have discovered Pro Lock extension cords...I love them! Light flexible, you can drag them without coming unplugged, everything I want in a cord.
https://www.centurywire.com/shop-by-brand-pro-lock
https://www.centurywire.com/shop-by-brand-pro-lock
RTM
Well-known member
Sooo... am I the only one with 10ga cords?? 20', 30' and 50 ' use them for pretty much all my tools if the run is over 10 feet.
Sorry, slow responder here, had to dig down to get to it.
SUTW 10g, approx 50'. Got it cheap from a contractor whose boss would not let him used a scuffed up one on a job site. Wrapped the scuff in tape, and its my first cord when I am going to be using bigger power tools away from the house.
Next is a 50' 12g, 4 conductor SO cord. Bulky, but saving it to convert back to a big 220V cord later.
csp
Well-known member
In my neck of the woods, you can't use home-made extension cords on the jobsite.
Same here. I have a few cords that were pulled from housing subdivision dumpsters after someone cut the cord with a circular saw.
So I never gave extension cord size much thought until I read this thread, and then put sizing up from a 16/3 to a 12/3 to the test. I have a drill press in my shed roughly 90 feet from the house, and was using it to drill 2" holes through treated 4x4's with a forstner bit. With the 16/3 the work light was actually flickering, and i had to take it pretty slow.
I had to make a trip to menards for some lag screws and figured I would buy a nice 100' 12/3 cord. Big improvement in the power of the drill, no more flickering of the work light! Resistance is futile!
I had to make a trip to menards for some lag screws and figured I would buy a nice 100' 12/3 cord. Big improvement in the power of the drill, no more flickering of the work light! Resistance is futile!
A compressor needs a heavy cord. 12 is good for that.
No way am I getting rid of the #16 though. They have a place. Absolutely no reason to drag around a #12 for an angle grinder or hand drill.
Get a 12 for the compressor. Don't listen to the guys telling you to throw the 16 away. They like overkill even when it's worse.
No way am I getting rid of the #16 though. They have a place. Absolutely no reason to drag around a #12 for an angle grinder or hand drill.
Get a 12 for the compressor. Don't listen to the guys telling you to throw the 16 away. They like overkill even when it's worse.