I need a portable generator. Help?

[countrytech]

I'd like to get a small portable generator to have around for outages/emergencies or occasional use in my shop or camping. Money is a big issue, but I don't want to buy a p.o.s. I think I need at least a 3000 watt generator, and having 220 would be nice, but not sure how much I really need it...

I found these 2:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...eg-3500-w-portable-gasoline-generator-4434023

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-hp-3...ce=retail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=1611a

Will they work, or will I regret buying them?

 

[ishiboo]

I'd like to get a small portable generator to have around for outages/emergencies or occasional use in my shop or camping. Money is a big issue, but I don't want to buy a p.o.s. I think I need at least a 3000 watt generator, and having 220 would be nice, but not sure how much I really need it...

I found these 2:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...eg-3500-w-portable-gasoline-generator-4434023

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-hp-3...ce=retail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=1611a

Will they work, or will I regret buying them?

Both are "inexpensive" foreign-built generators, they're a dime a dozen. No idea about the Champion's, but the Harbor Freights have relatively good reviews.

The HF one you posted does not have 240, I think if you plan on keeping it that's a good idea. I'd go with the HF over the Champion as the HF parts should be plentiful and their support is actually decent in warranty. You might consider a slightly larger generator - 3kw seems like "enough" you start using it

And for camping, IMO none of the cheap generators do a very good job. If you plan on camping near anyone else, I'd get a Honda or Yamaha. 4X the price but 100X quieter. Any of the cheap generators will sound like a freight train.

 

[half_full]

I've been searching for a deal on the Yamaha portable. Did some digging on Decibel levels and was quite suprised. Check out the site below. I have a larger cheap one for emegency but certainly want a quiet one for camping.

http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html

 

[SpeedCoach]

The Champion generators have a very loyal following on the RV forum I frequent....at least in terms of relative reliability.

You've got a couple of potentially conflicting needs here though....particularly "quiet" versus cost - and the 240v thing also throws a wrench into some of this as well.....

If you're going to camp anywhere near another human being, IMO you should look at an inverter type generator. The downside is that I dont know of any of these inverter gens that also have a 240v capacity. I've also heard (but have no experience of my own to contribute) that if you want/need to run any sensitive electronic equipment (computers, etc)- the "clean" power made by the inverter gens is more desirable.

also - regarding 3000 watt capacity....you may find that with the ability to pair some of the models out there you can get 4000w of juice for nearly the same price as the 3k watt variations.

Honda and Yamaha are widely regarded as the gold standard in the inverter gen category (full disclosure - I"m a honda gen owner), but they are pricier. Champion did recently start putting out a pairable 2000w inverter gen set that satisfies the quiet aspect....but again not the 240v possibilities. I've seen these sold at Sams Club near me.

 

[countrytech]

Good replies so far. As far as camping, we rarely ever go, and the times we do, it is not usually around other people as in a campground or high population. This would be for the "back 40" type of camping, like at my folks' farm along the creek.

The 220 need would be for my well pump, other than that I don't have anything specific in mind.

 

[theoldwizard1]

SpeedCoach is right on !

If you want 240V, you'll probably have to move up to a 5KW (continuous) or more. They are loud and **** a lot of gas ! The flip side is you may be able to find a good one pretty cheap on CL (paid $400 for mine a couple of years ago and it was like new !).

I've also heard (but have no experience of my own to contribute) that if you want/need to run any sensitive electronic equipment (computers, etc)- the "clean" power made by the inverter gens is more desirable.

I believe this is incorrect. Standard generators do regulate voltage with engine speed, but that is not an issue (except when starting heavy loads). Inverter generators do regulate voltage better.

Honda and Yamaha are widely regarded as the gold standard in the inverter gen category, but they are pricier

Absolutely correct !

If you are willing to buy Chinese, check out the Boliy 3600, It is sold on several web sites and eBay. Interestingly enough, it appears to have a Yamaha engine !

It is possible to step up the output of a 120V generator to 240V with a transformer, but you'll need a 3-5KVA unit like this.

 

[SpeedCoach]

Good replies so far. As far as camping, we rarely ever go, and the times we do, it is not usually around other people as in a campground or high population. This would be for the "back 40" type of camping, like at my folks' farm along the creek.

The 220 need would be for my well pump, other than that I don't have anything specific in mind.

I still think I'd steer myself toward a Honda (non-inverter in your case, obviously). By not needing the "quiet" gens your bill will drop a good bit - and the reliability you get out of those engines should serve you for a good long time.

Post up when you decide!

 

[trbomax]

I have 3,2 hondas, an eb 3000 and a 2000 inverter. Both are bulletproof. the eb3000 is over 22yrs old never even changed the plug or cleaned the carb/filter and it goes on the 2nd pull everytime. The 2000 is only 5 yrs old,use that ond on campouts, its so quiet it only needs to be 50' away. But when the power goes out and stays out,we need the big gun,and thats the lincoln7.5kv unit. If we get bored waiting for power to be restored we can mae crafts with the welder on it!!!

 

[countrytech]

Well, I found a generator on CL. It's a Troybilt, 3500 watt (5250 max) with a Briggs & Stratton engine on it. The one part is a little rusty, but it seems in decent shape, and they had it running for me and it sounded smooth.

It has 4 20amp 110v outlets and what looks to be a 4-prong specialty plug for 220.

The tires are flat, need to try to air them up, and I need some kind of leg or brace for under the front, so it sits level, not sure what happened to the piece that belongs there. The rust seems just surface, so I might be able to wire brush it off and paint it(?)

I paid $150 for it. Is it worth it?

 

[ishiboo]

Well, I found a generator on CL. It's a Troybilt, 3500 watt (5250 max) with a Briggs & Stratton engine on it. The one part is a little rusty, but it seems in decent shape, and they had it running for me and it sounded smooth.

It has 4 20amp 110v outlets and what looks to be a 4-prong specialty plug for 220.

The tires are flat, need to try to air them up, and I need some kind of leg or brace for under the front, so it sits level, not sure what happened to the piece that belongs there. The rust seems just surface, so I might be able to wire brush it off and paint it(?)

I paid $150 for it. Is it worth it?

I have that same generator (I believe it's built by Briggs & re-branded as various other brands) in a 5500/6500W and I've been quite happy. It's loud as can be.

It replaced a VERY expensive 4kw Mitsubishi which everyone oogled over. I had more trouble starting that *************. Carb failed, parts/repairs were big $$.

I think you'll like it. It's a basic generator and engine but they seem to be a good value.

 

[VHF]

Sounds like a good deal to me!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Well, I found a generator on CL. It's a Troybilt, 3500 watt (5250 max) with a Briggs & Stratton engine on it. The one part is a little rusty, but it seems in decent shape, and they had it running for me and it sounded smooth.

It has 4 20amp 110v outlets and what looks to be a 4-prong specialty plug for 220.

The tires are flat, need to try to air them up, and I need some kind of leg or brace for under the front, so it sits level, not sure what happened to the piece that belongs there. The rust seems just surface, so I might be able to wire brush it off and paint it(?)

I paid $150 for it. Is it worth it?

I think that is a SMOKIN' good deal !

Like ishiboo, I own its big brother. Both models are sold under multiple brand names (including Craftsman) which means parts, if required, should be easier to purchase.

My tires lose air all of the time also. The part that is rusty is next to (or part of) the muffler so if you want to paint it use hi temp paint.

Mine has a 10(?) HP engine, but it starts the first or second pull all of the time, even when it is 10-20F !

Best advice. Start and run it, under load (I use a cheap electric heater) for 10-15 minutes every month or 2. Drain and refill the gas at least once a year (twice would be better). You can throw the old gas in your car, but I would run it through some kind of filter (clean shop towel).

Wiring in a transfer switch with an outside connection will probably cost you more than what you just paid ! It cost me over $40 just for a used 15' 240V cord to go from the generator to the outside connection on the house.

 

[countrytech]

I think that is a SMOKIN' good deal !

Like ishiboo, I own its big brother. Both models are sold under multiple brand names (including Craftsman) which means parts, if required, should be easier to purchase.

My tires lose air all of the time also. The part that is rusty is next to (or part of) the muffler so if you want to paint it use hi temp paint.

Mine has a 10(?) HP engine, but it starts the first or second pull all of the time, even when it is 10-20F !

Best advice. Start and run it, under load (I use a cheap electric heater) for 10-15 minutes every month or 2. Drain and refill the gas at least once a year (twice would be better). You can throw the old gas in your car, but I would run it through some kind of filter (clean shop towel).

Wiring in a transfer switch with an outside connection will probably cost you more than what you just paid ! It cost me over $40 just for a used 15' 240V cord to go from the generator to the outside connection on the house.

Thanks for the advice

How do I drain the gas? should I worry about the oil?

 

[SpeedCoach]

Sounds like a good deal to me!

x3

depending on the fuel tank for that guy you may be able to pull the feed hose and let things drain....you can also siphon it with one of them self-starting siphon hose things (thats what I use)...of course there's always the turn it over and dump method.

For peace of mind ABSOLUTELY change that oil....it's cheap insurance.

Nice score

 

[Rentawrench]

This is for everybody that stores a small engine,(gen , waterpump) .Motorcycles too.

Do you have a racetrack near you? Or a place that sells NON ethenol gas.

If you do go buy 5 gal of unleaded race gas. drain old E10 out of your tanks ,refill ( a gal will do ) with Race gas an run it for 5min. an store.

Running it with load once a month will keep the field,so it will generate.
But look up how to Flash the generator,incase. ( all you need is a battery an wire cord with male plug to reflash one)

 

[theoldwizard1]

This is for everybody that stores a small engine,(gen , waterpump) .Motorcycles too.

Do you have a racetrack near you? Or a place that sells NON ethenol gas.

If you do go buy 5 gal of unleaded race gas. drain old E10 out of your tanks, refill ( a gal will do ) with Race gas an run it for 5min. an store.

I know I'm going to catch flack on this, but E10 is not the evil brew everyone makes it out to be on NEWER, SMALL ENGINE WITH PLASTIC FUEL TANKS.

Old equipment (> 10 or 15 years), with metal gas tanks are much more likely to have issues with E10. The ethanol acts like a "cleaner" loosening up "crud" in the tank which then gets lodged in the carb. Newer, plastic tanks are less like to have crud in their tank.

I have been running E10 on 6 - 8 small engines (one which is 50+ year old and does have a metal tank) with ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS.

 

[theoldwizard1]

How do I drain the gas?

depending on the fuel tank for that guy you may be able to pull the feed hose and let things drain....

I'm pretty certain the tank and carb are similar to mine.

First turn off the fuel vale. Then, using pliers, pinch the clamp nearest the carb and wiggle it back about an inch. Now you can work the fuel line off the carb inlet ******. Get an appropriate catch pan and open the valve.

should I worry about the oil?

For peace of mind ABSOLUTELY change that oil....it's cheap insurance.

+1 !

 

[Rentawrench]

The Evil part is the E in E10, Alcohol is reacts with the alum in the carbs & heads.

We run gokarts on alcohol, an run gas to flush out the carbs,problem is the E10 gas caused More problems then the pure alky, race gas cured it.

 

[countrytech]

I changed the oil and got the front leg fixed up on the generator and had it running a little while today. Used it to run my miter saw, and my new (old) Walker Turner drill press. It did fine with both, but the drill press made it sputter for a second on startup, I guess that thing pulls a lot of power, because it makes the lights flicker when I run it off regular power from the house.

Overall I am pretty happy with it so far. Now I need to find a plug and connection kit so that I can hook up to my house. Those things are looking like they will be 2x the price I paid for the generator?!? Anyone have a good recommendation there?

 

[D.J.]

Sounds like a you **** award to me!!!!!!
+ 1 on good deal
Also I also agree with theoldwizard1 on e1O not being the evil brew!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Now I need to find a plug and connection kit so that I can hook up to my house. Those things are looking like they will be 2x the price I paid for the generator?!? Anyone have a good recommendation there?

Ha Ha ! I have been waiting for this !

Shop eBay and CL. You can often find these parts "gently used" or new and never installed.

You definitely want to hire a licensed electrician to do this job. Find some one who has been recommended by a friend. Talk to them FIRST before buying any transfer switches etc.

Making your own cord is do-able. The receptacle on the generator will likely have the NEMA code (something like L14-20R) embossed into the plastic. Also check here for picture reference.

To make your own cord, you'll need a receptacle (NEMA number ends in R) and a plug (ends in P). Expect to pay between $10-$20 each.

For the cord, you will want 10/4 SOOW or SJOOW (12 gauge if your generator is only rated at 20A-240V and your length is "reasonable"; if 30A-240 or long run you want 10 gauge). Search eBay, category Business and Industrial for "10/4 cord". It is expensive. Again, you might be able to pick up something used on CL. If the price is right you can afford to replace the ends if necessary.

 

[ibedayank]

twistlock connectors are $$$ no matter how you look at it may want to watch evilbay
fill up on e10 time till runs out then do the same on straight good old gas using the same load and amount of gas

 

[theoldwizard1]

fill up on e10 time till runs out then do the same on straight good old gas using the same load and amount of gas

You are correct.

My only point is, E10 will not destroy small engines.

 

[mrb]

on the twistlock connectors, L14-20P is the 20 amp 4 wire plug, but the female cord end would be L14-20C. L14-20R is a receptacle you put in the wall.

dont forget you need a transfer switch or breaker interlock to connect to your house, not just the inlet.

 

[theoldwizard1]

on the twistlock connectors, L14-20P is the 20 amp 4 wire plug, but the female cord end would be L14-20C. L14-20R is a receptacle you put in the wall.

I have never seen the "C" suffix until now. I looks like the "C" and "R" are used interchangeably. Leviton 2413 L13-20R.

I have also see the "R" suffix applied to flush mount receptacles Leviton 2410

 

[Stuart in MN]

The C suffix refers to a connector (hanging on the end of a cord), while an R refers to a receptacle (built into the wall) so while the electrical contacts are the same they aren't interchangeable parts.

 

[TOOL MASTER]

if you don't care about noise the prices are cheap.....as for quiet.I love my hondas, 2000 watt..nice and quiet..900 bucks..the lunchbox ones...

 

[theoldwizard1]

The C suffix refers to a connector (hanging on the end of a cord), while an R refers to a receptacle (built into the wall) so while the electrical contacts are the same they aren't interchangeable parts.

I have bought "cord ends" that have "R" embossed in them !

 

[earthtech]

I have tried all types from cheap ones to good ones. The Honda inverter eu3000 holds up very well to use and abuse. It is very quiet and we use around residential projects etc. Wacker also makes a very rugged unit as well but considerably louder.

 

[braxx]

I have the Champion generator. I've had it for 4 plus years. I just used it this weekend at the campground because the power was out. Ran it for about 4hrs on Friday, 6hrs on Sat. and a few hours today.
Sure, it's not as quiet as the high end generators but it powers my 37' camper just fine. We can run the air in the summer if I want to. This past weekend I was running my LCD TV, 2-3 laptops, microwave, lights, radio etc...

 

[ddrewyor]

That is a good deal on the generator. I have a Honda EB5000 and I run synthetic oil in it and when it is stored, I use 100LL from the local small airport. Since these private plane sit for long periods of time, the fuel cannot gum up the works. Take a few ounces of regular gas and let it evaporate in a glass container. Do the same with the 100LL and you will see why the regular fuel can muck up your fuel system I use to run Stabil or Seafoam and change out the fuel every six months. Now I just run the 100LL and run it dry once a year and then replace. When the power goes out, I run fresh regular gas and then switch back to the other for storage. I do the same for storage on all my small engines. No problems for 20+ years. Everything typically starts on the first or second pull, unless the switch is in the stop position

Dave

 

[Scott P]

We lost power for over six days during Hurricane Ike. I was finally able to get a generator at Lowes on the fifth day. It was a 5500 W Briggs Storm Responder. It's nothing special, but it gave me power after five days without. In the two and a half years since, we've only lost power for more than an hour only once.

I also bought a Honda/Gen-Tran 10 circuit transfer switch for about $100. It was new in box, but an outdoor model. It sticks out of the wall a bit, but I framed it in trim moulding and it actually looks nice. Last month, we lost power for about 8 hours. It was nice being able to just plug the generator into the box and flip the circuits over. I had my fridge, freezer and even TV going.

I would love a nice quiet Honda or full-on standby generator, but the lack of outages just justify it. I put fresh gas with Sta-Bil in it every spring. I drain the old gas out of the tank into a gas can and toss it into the woman's car. The oil was changed to Mobil 1 after the initial break-in. I haven't changed it since as it only has maybe 10 hours of running time on it since the change.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I put fresh gas with Sta-Bil in it every spring. I drain the old gas out of the tank into a gas can and toss it into the woman's car. The oil was changed to Mobil 1 after the initial break-in. I haven't changed it since as it only has maybe 10 hours of running time on it since the change.

Scott, I really recommend running your generator under load for about 15 minutes once every month or two. That way you know it will start when you need it and that the field is still good.

 

[mobetta]

FYI- you can link 2 honda 1000 or 2000 or 3000 inverter type gennys w/ serial cords to gain 220v, and have super quiet power. but it will cost you, as the 2000w units are just short of $1K, and the serial cords are a couple hundred bux.

 

[Scott P]

Scott, I really recommend running your generator under load for about 15 minutes once every month or two. That way you know it will start when you need it and that the field is still good.

I've run it for about 20 minutes every couple months, but never under load. I'll have to keep that in mind and switch some circuits like the fridge and freezer to give it some load.