I need a quality reasonably priced multimeter.

[stanward]

Aren't most Fluke DMMs 10A max for current measurements?

With all due respect to the guys discussing high levels of protection versus cost, I will attempt to put my own spin on it.

I look for certain features on an Automotive meter before I consider safety and cost
(This is assuming your not working on Hybrids etc). Basically your going to be using it for 12v DC the majority of the time and in series Amps measurement up to a max of 20A.

1. You need a backlight for auto work (Fluke 70 don't have one)

2. Min/Max record is a must

3. A bar graph is good

4. Temp measurement is useful

5. DC current up to 20A or a DC current probe

6. Fast updating/ large clear LCD display

7. Good holster with a decent bail stand

8. Easy to replace fuses

9. Quality switchgear and function buttons

10. Millisecond pulse width function is much better than other automotive gimmicks like dwell/RPM

11. Frequency in hZ is good for certain signals

The beauty of Flukes is that they are tough and well made and have good features on basic models for what I think a fair price.

Some cheaper meters are just garbage, although you will mostly get reliable results on 12v DC but bits will fall off and the slow screen will miss glitches.

Match the meter to your skill level but don't cheap out too much (get something that's nice to use, like all tools if you like it you use it more and get better at it).

 

[theoldwizard1]

With all due respect to the guys discussing high levels of protection versus cost, I will attempt to put my own spin on it.

I look for certain features on an Automotive meter before I consider safety and cost

IMHO you miss the highest priority item. RUBBER HOUSING ! I guarantee you will drop it and with a rubber housing you have a chance that it might survive !

4. Temp measurement is useful

Useful, but I'll bet few people actually spend the money to buy the probe !

5. DC current up to 20A or a DC current probe

I'm still looking for a "reasonably" price "add-on" amp clamp for my DMM.

Some cheaper meters are just garbage, although you will mostly get reliable results on 12v DC but bits will fall off and the slow screen will miss glitches.

If you are looking for "glitches" get an oscilloscope. PicoScopes are nice but expensive. An alternative is the Rigol DS1102E.

Match the meter to your skill level but don't cheap out too much (get something that's nice to use, like all tools if you like it you use it more and get better at it).

True. 'scopes are overkill for most people.

Expect to have to purchase various test leads and probes. This is where you should buy the best you can find as you will keep them even if you upgrade your meter.

 

[Adam.C]

Fluke has a free pdf called "beat the book" linked here:

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/solutions/automotive/

It discusses specific checks that can be made with a DMM (and how their products check them).

If you look through that, you may find that you don't need much DMM to check voltages and continuities. I decided on the Chinese made Fluke 15B, which has gotten good reviews:

and appears to be of good quality, tho not in the same league as the 88.

A couple recommendations from a rank amateur- get better quality leads. The meter comes with TL75 leads. The silicone leads are softer and more heat resistant, which is nice when working on a hot engine.

Other thing to consider are the new wireless head models, which I could have used last weekend. I needed to check to see if I was getting power to a line I tapped into the back up light circuit (for a back up camera I'm installing). But I have to turn the car on and put it in reverse to find out, then I couldn't see the meter.

UNI-Trend (UNI-T) make good cheap meters. Given the choice, I chose the FLUKE as it was similarly priced (approx $75).

 

[richfinn]

Aren't most Fluke DMMs 10A max for current measurements?

The high end models I have seen are rated to 20a for a limited amount of time.

I use an amp probe though.

 

[richfinn]

IMHO you miss the highest priority item. RUBBER HOUSING ! I guarantee you will drop it and with a rubber housing you have a chance that it might survive !



Useful, but I;ll bet few people actually spend the money to buy the probe !


I'm still looking for a "reasonably" price "add-on" amp clamp for my DMM.



If you are looking for "glitches" get an oscilloscope. PicoScopes are nice but expensive. An alternative is the Rigol DS1102E.


True. 'scopes are overkill for most people.

Expect to have to purchase various test leads and probes. This is where you should buy the best you can find as you will keep them even if you upgrade your meter.

holster at item 7.

I have a DSO (tektronix)

My list is what I would look for in a DVOM for working on vehicles
Please feel free to add to it.

I use load pro leads/some banana plug leads and back probe pins/a very long meter lead with banana plug ends so I can work alone/box full of old automotive connectors so I can hack up my own adaptors/low amp DC probe.