I need a reliable electrical tester/multimeter Fluke T5/6 vs 325

[motorcitykid]

Gentlemen,
I need to do some basic testing in my home panel 200amp and detached 100amp sub panel. I also do some basic testing with electric motors 1/3hp-10hp, boat and car electronics. Some small appliance testing and repair, HVAC etc.
I like the capabilities of the T5/6 600/1000/Pro and the 325. Both will do what's needed I believe, I like the bare bones of the T5 but wonder if the added functionality would be worth the added cost. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[BillK]

For household electrical work like you describe you really do not need to spend a bunch of money. I bought a Klein MM400 for the shop when my ancient Radio Shack analog VOM died. I have been perfectly happy with it. To be honest with you it is total overkill.

Klein Tools 600V AC/DC Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter, Drop Resistant, Temperature Measurement MM400 - The Home Depot

Prepare yourself to conquer all your music work projects at ease with the help of this Klein Tools AutoRanging Digital Multimeter.

www.homedepot.com

$65

 

[LopezBart]

For household electrical work like you describe you really do not need to spend a bunch of money. I bought a Klein MM400 for the shop when my ancient Radio Shack analog VOM died. I have been perfectly happy with it. To be honest with you it is total overkill.

Klein Tools 600V AC/DC Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter, Drop Resistant, Temperature Measurement MM400 - The Home Depot

Prepare yourself to conquer all your music work projects at ease with the help of this Klein Tools AutoRanging Digital Multimeter.

www.homedepot.com

$65

I have a very similar Klein.... robust, and not so much money that I cannot keep it handy on trips.

 

[gleman]

This little kit is great around the house. Don't sleep on the nct and gfci checker, makes quick checks a breeze.

 

[duneslider]

I have a number of multimeters, fluke down to cheapie chinese and they all do pretty much the same thing for basic needs.

Obviously, the fluke is nicer and will last longer and is professional grade but for checking voltage, resistance, continuity they all work just fine. The cheap ones I bought when I was caught out in the field and needed one and just bought whatever cheap one I could find at the home center or autoparts store. Now I just try to leave one in the common places I use them, keep on in my tool bag, in the rv, in the house, in my shop area.

 

[motorcitykid]

For household electrical work like you describe you really do not need to spend a bunch of money. I bought a Klein MM400 for the shop when my ancient Radio Shack analog VOM died. I have been perfectly happy with it. To be honest with you it is total overkill.

I have been looking for a few days, and I did consider the Klein meters, first actually. The MM720, looks awesome. The 10hp motor for my compressor and my 2hp grinder are beyond the capabilities which is why I am steering toward a clamp meter. Klein does have some awesome stuff, and I'm not a "fan boy" but the tests and reviews I've seen has me somewhat convinced that investing in an overbuilt basic unit isn't a bad idea.

 

[motorcitykid]

The T5 1000 is $150 (T6-1000 $200 but I don't know that I need anything beyond what the T5 is offering) Where going into the 325 would provide true rms over average with the T5.

 

[kngelv]

The Flukes you have mentioned are terrible for what you are doing. Fluke prices are crazy but something like the 115 would work better for all your testing along with a Klein or Ideal clamp-on for an amp probe The T-series is not good for any bench work because of the design. You can't lay it flat or prop it up.

James

 

[BillK]

The 10hp motor for my compressor and my 2hp grinder are beyond the capabilities

What are you trying to measure that would be outside of their "capabilities" ?? I worked in electronics for almost 20 years before starting my business and electronics is still my main non automotive hobby and to be honest with you I have never had a need for a clamp type meter ? If I did I would probably want it to be stand alone. The clamp part makes a regular meter very clumsy in my opinion.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

For household electrical work like you describe you really do not need to spend a bunch of money. I bought a Klein MM400 for the shop when my ancient Radio Shack analog VOM died. I have been perfectly happy with it. To be honest with you it is total overkill.

Klein Tools 600V AC/DC Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter, Drop Resistant, Temperature Measurement MM400 - The Home Depot

Prepare yourself to conquer all your music work projects at ease with the help of this Klein Tools AutoRanging Digital Multimeter.

www.homedepot.com

$65

if OP need to measure current, that unit wont work

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What are you trying to measure that would be outside of their "capabilities" ??

current? a DMM cant measure high current without a clamp accessory

 

[theoldwizard1]

current? a DMM cant measure current without a clamp accessory

... or breaking the connection and adding a shunt !

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have a number of multimeters, fluke down to cheapie chinese and they all do pretty much the same thing for basic needs.

It is worth having at least one spare cheapo meter and some decent leads with both probes and alligator clips.

I have some piercing probes already, but I just bought these as spares.

 

[sparky 1971]

After I realized that I had accidentally thrown away my EDC T5 I bought this to get me by for the time being. That was several years ago and I haven't felt the need to replace the Fluke yet. (mine doesn't have the extra view screen on the bottom but otherwise it's the same thing)

https://www.idealind.com/us/en/category/product.html/200a-ac-dc-trms-tightsightr-fork-meter.html

I also have this one for when I want to use the clamp to hang the meter so I don't have to hold forever. For the most part, it just sits in the truck.


www.idealind.com/us/en/category/product.html/61-744.html

 

[willf650]

Gentlemen,
I need to do some basic testing in my home panel 200amp and detached 100amp sub panel. I also do some basic testing with electric motors 1/3hp-10hp, boat and car electronics. Some small appliance testing and repair, HVAC etc.
I like the capabilities of the T5/6 600/1000/Pro and the 325. Both will do what's needed I believe, I like the bare bones of the T5 but wonder if the added functionality would be worth the added cost. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

I used to work as an HVAC mechanic and electrician and bought a T5 about 25 years ago to replace a Fluke Model 30 I broke. It’s has basically been unused since I got it. I now work in automation and have a fair bit of experience using all kinds of meter.

The T5 is a terrible meter and doesn’t excel at a single thing. It’s basically a glorified ”Wiggy” replacement and even reading current with it *****. You will be greatly disappointed if you actually use it for more than basic voltage readings.

I can say Fluke makes a good meter and every one I’ve ever purchased still works aside from the Model 30 I physically broke from dropping off a lift. A couple are 30 years old.

Honestly for home use with what you are messing with I’d go to Home Depot and get one of the Klein clamp style multi meters for about $80-$100. I have this one I bought as a spare when I misplaced my meter and needed something at that moment. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...Clamp-Meter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-CL390/312649921

 

[willf650]

current? a DMM cant measure current without a clamp accessory

Actually most can. I do it all the time but it’s limited to 10 amps and you feed the current through the meter. I mainly do it for MilliAmps and smaller readings of 2-3 amps in the course of testing blown causes fuses.

Doing that is something most people would not do.

 

[mm08822]

Last month I lost my Wiggy equivalent. Had it for like 47 years! Feel like I lost friend.

I can't see buying another with DMVs/Clamps so cheap and so many functions available. I'm looking for a rugged day-day cheapo so I don't beat up my Flukes. I always liked the fact that there were no loose parts.

Suggestions???

 

[sparky 1971]

Last month I lost my Wiggy equivalent. Had it for like 47 years! Feel like I lost friend.

I can't see buying another with DMVs/Clamps so cheap and so many functions available. I'm looking for a rugged day-day cheapo so I don't beat up my Flukes. I always liked the fact that there were no loose parts.

Suggestions???

I like the Ideal Vol-Con or Vol-test if you don't want the continuity tester. I used a Vol-Con and when I wore a pouch, carried it on my belt for years; still have it but the last "big job for me" I left it in my gang box, it's been in there with Lord only knows what else for at least five years, probably more. Next time I'm at the store room I might have to open it up and see what kind of goodies I forgot I have.

 

[mm08822]

I like the Ideal Vol-Con or Vol-test if you don't want the continuity tester. I used a Vol-Con and when I wore a pouch, carried it on my belt for years; still have it but the last "big job for me" I left it in my gang box, it's been in there with Lord only knows what else for at least five years, probably more. Next time I'm at the store room I might have to open it up and see what kind of goodies I forgot I have.

Ha! I see there are 4 versions of that form factor today. I guess I remember back to only the first. That model became the competition for the real Wiggins back in the day.

How long is the installed bat life on the 61-76 Val-con?
Can it trip GFCIs probing hot-grd?

 

[sparky 1971]

Ha! I see there are 4 versions of that form factor today. I guess I remember back to only the first. That model became the competition for the real Wiggins back in the day.

How long is the installed bat life on the 61-76 Val-con?

I bought it about 2000, used it regularly up until 2020ish and I only remember changing the batteries once.

Can it trip GFCIs probing hot-grd?

Yes

One problem I did have that you may or may not was that when below 0 cold out, the leads broke at least twice that I can remember. It must have been an often enough problem that the supply house carried replacement leads on the shelf.

 

[willf650]

Last month I lost my Wiggy equivalent. Had it for like 47 years! Feel like I lost friend.

I can't see buying another with DMVs/Clamps so cheap and so many functions available. I'm looking for a rugged day-day cheapo so I don't beat up my Flukes. I always liked the fact that there were no loose parts.

Suggestions???

Why not just buy a used one off eBay?

I just looked and there’s a bunch of nice looking used ones for about $30.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[mm08822]

Why not just buy a used one off eBay?

I just looked and there’s a bunch of nice looking used ones for about $30.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Yeah, I could just replace the one I had, too....ebay had them. But I was thinking my nostalgia was clouding 50- years of progress!

First thing is, what to get. Sourcing it becomes secondary and yes, ebay could be the place.

 

[theoldwizard1]

current? a DMM cant measure current without a clamp accessory

Actually most can. I do it all the time but it’s limited to 10 amps and you feed the current through the meter.

... or breaking the connection and adding a shunt !

In many cases is is NOT FEASIBLE to break the connection to insert the meter !

 

[duneslider]

It is worth having at least one spare cheapo meter and some decent leads with both probes and alligator clips.

I have some piercing probes already, but I just bought these as spares.

I should have mentioned that I usually replace the leads with better ones if I plan to use the meter more than once or twice a year. There is a guy that makes leads and other test cables that are very nice and well made for those that are interested. PartsCandy.com The probes and test leads are the best I have ever used.

 

[Snapped-off]

I bought it about 2000, used it regularly up until 2020ish and I only remember changing the batteries once.

Yes

One problem I did have that you may or may not was that when below 0 cold out, the leads broke at least twice that I can remember. It must have been an often enough problem that the supply house carried replacement leads on the shelf.

I never considered actually using one. I may pick one up just for the small size. Alot of what I do is dead checks and continuity.

I can always grab one of the flukes when needed.

 

[motorcitykid]

I’m in over my head a bit but want to learn. The clamp meter will allow me to measure the in rush current on the 10hp (FLA 43), a clamp meter is like a sledge hammer where a multimeter is a good ball peen, both are good to have but the DMM’s top out at 10amps.
Installing a 50amp dual pole breaker and contactor then the 10hp I’d like to be able to test what’s being drawn.
I’m at the upper end of my homes capacity and may need to go down to a 7.5hp or 5hp to be safe. I’m not understanding how else to measure high amp draw other than with the clamp style.
My main is 200amp, my subpanel is 100amp. I have the room in the panel for the dual pole, but I want to make sure that I am not going to burn my house down trying to install an air compressor in the garage.

I’ve been studying meters, I want a used Fluke 87V. But if I can’t find one of those then a new Brymen B235 would be more than sufficient as a multimeter.

The clamp meter is a multitool, good at big amps and poor at measuring low signals and not meant to be a bench test meter.
The Klein CL800/810 seems to be a fantastic option for this task. I can’t buy all the stuff I want yet, so I’m buying it one step at a time.

I want a clamp meter, multimeter and oscilloscope. But for now I think the best thing is to get the clamp first to allow me to get through this task then on to the next. My thought was buying the most valuable I wouldn’t lose out much if it wasn’t needed after the job. I bought a nice LCR meter when I recapped crossovers in my HiFi system and was able to get a lot of my money back.

I may find that it’s a tool that I don’t want to be without, but primarily just want to get this job done to the best of my ability.

If I’m mistaken then by all means feel free to correct me.
I do have a cheapo DMM with nice leads, that is somewhat sufficient. (Better than nothing)

 

[motorcitykid]

This is my main panel, the two dual pole 50’s go to my shop.

This is my shop panel where I’m going to install the dual pole 50 amp breaker. From here the contactor

Then the motor


If I would be better served with a multimeter for this task then that’s what I’ll get. But I understand that a clamp will not be a good bench tester.

 

[motorcitykid]

I appreciate all the added information you guys have shared it has helped me, Than you.

 

[mm08822]

A few things........
A 10 hp motor is going to load your entire sub panel and main panel tremendously. You will hate the voltage drops it causes every time the compressor starts.
You may find the 50s tripping.
Even possibly the 200.
Your neighbors may even experience the voltage drops and call POCO.
Your POCO will probably have issue with the 10 hp.

I suggest you bench test the motor unloaded and see how your home wiring responds. (It won't get better under load.)

As for inrush current measurements, a peak-hold clamp-on is what you want. I'm sure it will cover your bench needs for some time adequately.

The flukes and Kleins previously mentioned will get the job done for you.

 

[dave*99]

The main breaker is not fully seated. I don’t see a hold down either Or maybe it is and the breakers below it are not. They should all be aligned.

 

[motorcitykid]

A few things........
A 10 hp motor is going to load your entire sub panel and main panel tremendously. You will hate the voltage drops it causes every time the compressor starts.
You may find the 50s tripping.
Even possibly the 200.
Your neighbors may even experience the voltage drops and call POCO.
Your POCO will probably have issue with the 10 hp.

I suggest you bench test the motor unloaded and see how your home wiring responds. (It won't get better under load.)

As for inrush current measurements, a peak-hold clamp-on is what you want. I'm sure it will cover your bench needs for some time adequately.

The flukes and Kleins previously mentioned will get the job done for you.

I started this project reaching out to the power company with the details on the motor and my panel, they said I have zero limitations on the feed side. Not that I trust what they say, but that's what I was told. I want to test everything prior to moving this monster compressor into it's place so if I can't use it there is minimal back and forth. The 10hp is monstrous, and I've been told the single phase 10hp aren't known for longevity so my thought is use it for the time being with a long term plan of going to a 5hp-7.5hp.
As much as I like the idea of getting a fluke for long term dependability I think the Klien is going to be a better choice for this, because the equivalent fluke is not in my price range.

 

[motorcitykid]

The main breaker is not fully seated. I don’t see a hold down either

I saw that, this is all new to me but we had a new AC installed and this is how it looks afterward. It kind of looks like the way the panel sits over top of the breakers like it was put back on a little crooked.

 

[willf650]

That‘s not a contractor but a motor starter because it has an overload but that’s semantics.

You are correct on the analogy of the clamp style multi meter being a leatherman and a multi meter being a dedicated tool.

For the stuff you’re messing with a clamp style multi meter will suffice. If you want to measure inrush you will need one with min/max functionality but probably don’t really need to measure inrush.

What do you have at a house that has a 10hp motor? I can’t think of anything I would ever need to use that is that big. Did you get a free big air compressor or something?

To measure currents that large with a multi meter you will need an accessory clamp that will put out millivolts for a multimeter to read. I have 2 variations of this one: Clamp accessory

You can probably easily find an 87 series 3 used for about $100 if you shop around but I doubt you need one. Just get the clamp on multi meter as mentioned.

You are correct on large single phase motors being a POS. We had either a 5 or 7.5 on a compressor at a sheet metal shop I worked at and it was constantly an issue. After we moved to a larger building with 3 phase power we bought a 15 hp compressor and all the issues went away.

 

[dave*99]

Here is a bigger issue:
The lug and wire overheated. Sign of a loose connection.

 

[willf650]

Just noticed the wire on the B phase of your shop panel is burning up currently.

Also that panel won’t handle that motor. The panel isn’t large enough.

Love the bolt in the motor starter lug.

 

[motorcitykid]

Did you get a free big air compressor or something?

Yes, exactly. Thank you for your added insight, and for confirming my thoughts on the clamp meter.

I am going to find a smaller motor but would like to make use of this while/if I can. The Klein does have the mentioned features. (CL800)

 

[motorcitykid]

Here is a bigger issue:
The lug and wire overheated. Sign of a loose connection.

My guess is this is from the exterior plug having a short but plan to test and see what has been damaged

 

[dave*99]

My guess is this is from the exterior plug having a short but plan to test and see what has been damaged

No way you overheat this from that. All the branch circuits are 20A. This is a 50A feeder. The 20A breaker would trip on a short.

 

[dave*99]

Yes, exactly. Thank you for your added insight, and for confirming my thoughts on the clamp meter.

I am going to find a smaller motor but would like to make use of this while/if I can. The Klein does have the mentioned features. (CL800)

The CL800 measures current min/max. This is not the same as inrush current. CL900 measures inrush. Inrush current capture requires a very fast meter response time. Not the same as min/max.

 

[motorcitykid]

Just noticed the wire on the B phase of your shop panel is burning up currently.

Also that panel won’t handle that motor. The panel isn’t large enough.

Love the bolt in the motor starter lug.

It’s been this way for at least two years, not certain what caused it but it is not an ongoing issue.

Is the panel big enough for a 5?