I need concrete advise

[DOC-BA]

Good morning, I recently received a concrete bid for a 44x40 existing structure and I'm just not happy with it. So the thought has come up that maybe I can do it myself with a crew of friends. The structure is 44x40. I have gotten some advise that varies wildly and as my specialty is in cars, not concrete here I am!

At this point, what are your experiences/advice on.....

Fiber mesh vs. Rebar

Using hog panels (my property is covered in thick fencing and hog panels that needs to come down, 10 years old or less) in concrete as reinforcement

Broom finish on concrete

Possible only concreting part of a shop

Thanks in advance for any help

BA

 

[spotco2]

Broom finish ***** in a shop.

Hurts to lay or kneel on and a pain to sweep or mop.

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree with the broom finish not being good in a shop.

I have seen many homeowner jobs where they attempted the concrete & literally it *****. COncrete is a hard job, you need to know the tricks & timing to make a good job.

 

[kd3pc]

I would not skimp on this process, it needs to be done right the first time, or any perceived savings - is going out the door.

best of luck

 

[jeepermat]

You get 1 shot with concrete, a shop is not a good learning platform in my opinion.

Fibermesh is not a replacement for steel in the slab, fiber will help with small hairline cracks, in my opinion it is a waste of money, stepping up to 4000psi mix is a better value. If you do go fibermesh you will have small fibers that stick up on the slab and will be irritating to your skin, you can take a torch to the pad and burn the fibers off though.

I would go #4 rebar on 16" centers atleast 5" thick. Hog paneling would work, but is not as strong. Most engineers would require the #4 rebar.

If you were me, you would do all the prep work yourself to include grading and compacting your base, laying down a moisture barrier, and laying and tying all of the rebar. Then hire a contractor to come in and do the pour, this can usually be had for around $1/sqft not including the concrete cost.

 

[Blazinzuk]

I keep hearing everyone say you well have fibers sticking up with fiber mesh.

I did fiber mesh at my old house.

Not one single time did I notice fibers irritating. There were some spots where you could still obviously see it was fibermesh. But after 6 months of sweeping and working in that shop it looked like normal concrete with no exposed fibers at all.

I never gave any of it a second thought.

 

[gofast]

Write the check

 

[stihlntime]

We first poured a 24x32 by ourselves,just two of us as a result of how well it came out,we pored a 60x80 pad. First of all its damn hard work. Better have you a crew of 4 to 6 guys willing to work. We poured 6" fiber re enforced with wire cattle panels set on 3" supports. Prep work is 75% of the job,making sure your grade work is level and the forms are properly supported. Weather is a big factor on how it will set up and cure. Running a power towel has a learning curve,better to find you some one with experience. Its not an insurmountable task,just better to have someone around to advise you on the process. I've got the pride of knowing our shop floor was done by the family.

 

[DOC-BA]

I have a friend that has volunteered to help, he used to do it for a living. Cost is an issue, we have a little one on the way, and I don't want to blow the nestegg before it gets here. but I do perform a good amount of side work and can't replace that income until I have a shop floor again.

 

[lakeroadster]

How about doing half now, and half later? If you've got an experienced friend, and you can line up 3 people, 4 including yourself on the day of the pour, go for it.

I've poured a variety of projects, the largest being a 24' x 32' garage... just me, my wife and the guy driving the concrete truck.

Now, I lucked out in that case, as the guy driving the truck was willing to help and a great guy.... keep in mind this was 1981, when the world wasn't filled with as many slackers as there are today.

Wire mesh is good, and fiber mesh is good to. I've never used re-bar in any of the 4 buildings I've been involved with, and I've never had a problem.

How's the lay of the land at your building? Is the building site up high with adequate drainage such that the slab will be dry?

Does the building have good access for the concrete truck to chute, or better yet convey, the mix without having to wheel barrow it?

 

[machsnell]

It all adds up and subgrade prep is the key. Solid compacted or vigin cut ground. Stone. Compact well with something larger than a plate compactor or at least a big one with reverse etc.

That isnt that large but I like rebar at 18 inch oc and microfiber. Not macro. You can't see microfiber in the mix. It is cheap per yard and great insurance.

Fiber is great and so is rebar.

One shot deal do it as well as you can possibly afford. Cracks in concrete drive me crazy.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[DOC-BA]

The building has excellent access! 14' clear barn doors probably 14-16' wide. We have been working on this problem for awhile. I'm really thinking of putting in rebar on 16 or 24" centers for the main are and drive up area, then using hog panels and light rebar for the wings of it, which will essentially be glorified lawnmower parking.

 

[kerr]

Both , fibermesh and rebar . The hairs will wear away after awhile , a none issue . Slick finish if you want to sweep it ever .

 

[MagKarl]

There are different kinds of fiber. I remember what looked like fiberglass 20+ years ago and that left a hairy surface, the fiber I have in my barn is poly of some sort and is very fine, nothing to wear off.

 

[Chuck Baggs]

BA -
I totally get your situation, in that budget is a major concern. Since you have a former concrete guy to help, you should be fine, as long as everyone else that says their going to help actually shows up on time! Your shop would be about 2.5 to 3 trucks of redi mix, so be sure to have everything ready to go early in the morning, so you've got plenty of time to work the concrete before the heat hits.

Go ahead and use your hog panels as you mentioned and then 18" oc is fine for the #4 bar. The key to bars in making sure they are about 2 inches off the ground during the pour.

If you've got one experienced guy and lots of help, you should be fine. Worst case scenario, you pour 1 truck day one and the rest the next day in the morning.

PS - And no beers until the jobs done!

 

[DougWil]

Fibermesh is not a replacement for steel in the slab, fiber will help with small hairline cracks, in my opinion it is a waste of money, stepping up to 4000psi mix is a better value. If you do go fibermesh you will have small fibers that stick up on the slab and will be irritating to your skin, you can take a torch to the pad and burn the fibers off though.

I would go #4 rebar on 16" centers atleast 5" thick. Hog paneling would work, but is not as strong. Most engineers would require the #4 rebar.

If you were me, you would do all the prep work yourself to include grading and compacting your base, laying down a moisture barrier, and laying and tying all of the rebar. Then hire a contractor to come in and do the pour, this can usually be had for around $1/sqft not including the concrete cost.

Excellent advise!!

If you read and understand the fibermesh literature is says it is for SECONDARY reinforcement.

for use as concrete secondary reinforcement
http://www.fibermesh.com/downloads/Fibermesh 300.pdf

Primary reinforcement is rebar or steel mesh.

 

[DOC-BA]

It's no my first slab. But it is the first one that is mine. I'm usually grunt help, but like I said I'm not an expert. I've contacted a few guys locally for consultation and this post. I doubt I post back with a failure story.

A big thank you to the guys who provided helpful information.

 

[Blue]

Good morning, I recently received a concrete bid for a 44x40 existing structure and I'm just not happy with it. So the thought has come up that maybe I can do it myself with a crew of friends.

I'm no expert, but have you done the math on how much you'll actually be saving?

 

[ford33]

You get one attempt at this and if it goes wrong there is no savings and it will cost you more money. The risk vs. reward is not good. Write the check.

 

[DOC-BA]

Gentleman, thank you very much for your advice. I will take all of it into consideration. Please consider this thread closed.