I need some opinions on a sub panel install

[Makoto]

Hey guys, I've never installed a breaker box before and lowes has several different types of breakers available. Does it matter what kind of 115 or 220 breaker i get?

here's what I think I need so far:

1 breaker for lights
1 breaker for outlets
1 breaker for 220 outlet
1 grounding buzzbar
a length of thicker wire (not sure what gauge) to wire up to the main box

here's what I have so far:

any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

 

[Milton Shaw]

From your questions you need to buy a book on basic home wiring. You are asking for breakers based on voltage not amps. Breakers are either single or double pole 15,20 amp etc. Study the book and get back with GJ for answers to accurate questions.

 

[Doug B]

I think you should hire an electrician...

 

[Makoto]

I just need one breaker for a few lights, another for a few outlets, and another for a mig.

but i guess if you guys are saying nobody here can give me the short and sweet on that alright.

 

[C96]

Wire to short, no connectors, box doesn’t look mounted proper, just looks screwed-up already from the get go.
Start over and then post in the proper section "Lighting & Electrical"

 

[nolimits76]

Holy sh*t Batman, please tell me this is a prank.

No disrespect meant, but you can kill yourself and/or burn down your house if this isn't done right. I'm not an electrician either, but have long ago realized that and rely on electrician buddies or pros to help me on these type of projects.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Makoto, if you search YouTube, "adding a sub panel" you will find videos describing what you are looking for.

The biggest challenge is knowing the correct terminology so you can ask the right questions and to find what you need.

First off you will need to have a suitable Double Pole Breaker installed in your Main Panel to protect the sub panel you are about to install.
That breaker needs to match the brand of your Main Panel, i.e. Square D or Stablok etc.

Usually a 60AMP double pole breaker is what's used but will depend on what the sub panel you have is rated at.

What brand is the sub panel you have in the picture?

As far as wire to run from the main panel to your sub panel, that will depend on distance and if you are running it outside or under ground, If it's inside the same building you can use 3 Conductor 6 AWG and that will be good up to 60AMPs, you can use 3C/8AWG for 40 AMPs.
The breakers for your new sub panel will need to be same brand as the panel.
You can then install the breakers you will need, single pole for 120VAC and Double Pole for 240VAC, you just need to size them according to what is on each circuit, standard outlets normally use 15 Amp single pole breakers.

You will need to use the correct bushings/wiring retainers where the wire enters your sub panel, looks like you have removed the knockout and just pushed the wire through, this is a very dangerous practise and should be avoided as bad things happen when wiring is installed incorrectly.

As the other posters have suggested buy a book on house wiring or contact an electrician, if you get this wrong you can get hurt or killed and worst case your house could burn down.

Please get help if you are unsure.

Regards,

David
.

 

[Makoto]

Its a GE, I have the exact panel in this video.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Wire to short, no connectors, box doesn’t look mounted proper, just looks screwed-up already from the get go.
Start over and then post in the proper section "Lighting & Electrical"

No need to start over, I've already moved the thread to L&E.

Makoto, the guys here would be more than willing to help you and offer advice, if they feel that you are capable to do it yourself. By looking at the few posts already, your fellow members feel that you might be over your head already.

Do like Milton has suggested, buy a book on basic home wiring, Time Life makes some decent books with great pictures, do some reading and then come back with an understanding of what you need.

Electric is not for the uninformed, not only can it kill you quickly, improper installation can cause a fire.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Just checked your garage build, so is this the sub panel?

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Its a GE, I have the exact panel in this video.

That's should cover all you need, if you need anything else just ask.

 

[Makoto]

Kiwi, yeah thats the panel.

NUTTSGT, i'm not new to electrical. I've done basic stuff for years, I've just never installed a sub panel from scratch before.

thanks to anyone for advice cause I'm doing this job myself

 

[Makoto]

That's should cover all you need, if you need anything else just ask.

that doesn't cover which breakers to use. so... which breakers (20amp will probably do) should I get if I want 1 breaker for lights, 1 for outlets?

 

[Makoto]

This is what I think I need. Just need a confirmation:

Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker (source: lowes)

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

This is what I think I need. Just need a confirmation:

Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker (source: lowes)

The link does not work for me.
Standard outlets are all 15 Amp max, you will need a special plug, outlet and 12AWG wire for 20 Amp, so install single pole 15 Amp breakers for your outlets, usually you will want to only put a few on each breaker, not all on the same circuit as running 2 tools or a heater and a tool will blow the breaker.

For your Welder, check the specification on it and install the right sized breaker, probably a 30 Amp 240VAC double pole breaker, and you will need the correct plug receptacle as you probably already know.

 

[n8n]

The link does not work for me, but standard outlets are all 15 Amp max, you will need a special plug and outlet for 20 Amp, so install single pole 15 Amp breakers for your outlets, usually you will want to only put a few on each breaker, not all on the same circuit as running 2 tolls or a heater and a tool will blow the breaker.

For your Welder, check the specification on it and install the right sized breaker, probably a 30 Amp 240VAC double pole breaker.

NEC allows 15A receps on 20A circuit, and for a garage I would pull all 120 recep ckts. W/ 12AWG and use 20A breakers. And would do several ckts. As you'll want them if you need to use two high draw devices at the same time.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[whitedogone]

Yea, get one of those.

 

[Stuff]

This is what I think I need. Just need a confirmation:

Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker (source: lowes)

You don't listen very well. It was mentioned you need to buy the same brand.

You probably won't kill yourself, but you will most likely get someone hurt as you don't realize the danger involved in doing it wrong.

You need to stop and read the instructions first. Books, videos, anything.

 

[alkknight]

It's a GE sub panel, buy GE breakers (Q-line). They should be right beside the Square D HOM breakers. Even though most blade type breakers will fit in other panels, you should stick with the ones designed for that panel. There are slight differences and a bad connection leads to heat and a failed breaker (or worse). As far as breakers sizing, n8n is right on. Don't forget to use romex connectors or Hitlocks where the romex enters the panel. You need to add a buss bar. In a sub panel your neutrals and grounds need to be separated. For the welder circuit, when you determine what your welder requires, but that breaker (double pole). Wire size is: 30amp - #10 wire, 40amp - #8 wire, 50 or 60amp- #6 wire. A 60amp breaker added to your main panel will most likely cover everything you are putting in that sub panel, so that would need 6/3 romex between the two. Is your main panel full? I only see a handful of romex coming out of it. Just wondering why you are putting a sub panel in to begin with (since the main is right beside it).

 

[alkknight]

Well, I checked out the rest of your garage pics and see the rest
of the romex coming out of the main and figure that size panel is pretty full... Seems they pulled almost everything out of a single 2-1/2" knock out in the top... Guess that's one way to do it.

 

[6bird4]

Think the job all the way thought! The breaker feeding the sub panel to all the individual circuits.

Match the breaker and wire size properly like mentioned above! If you have a specific load (devise) in mind work back words. A 13 amp saw needs to be on a 20 amp circuit with #12 AWG. Look to see what the proper connectors are. In ten years would you want your kids using it? your main breacker is how big for all your loads? YOU TUBE!!!

This is hard to type all out so please do some research.

 

[Makoto]

This is the kind of feedback I'm looking for. thanks for the help guys, I just needed some clarification on a couple things.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

You need to use GE breakers with that GE panel. It has the funny little clips welded to the stabs at all positions so it will accept the GE half width breakers also. I suggest buying them so you don't fill the panel that quick. They even make double pole breakers (for 240v circuits and MWBC) that fit between the flat stabs and snap onto those u shaped clips on the sides of the flat stabs. Do not buy any other brand of breaker. They are all about the same price give or take a few cents, so get the right thing.

Charles

 

[C96]

Again, I think the OP needs to start over from scratch.

Most of us if not all would agree that in a garage / shop environment the general purpose branch circuit receptacle outlets would be best at 20amp. This would mean replacing the 14awg the OP has already installed that limit the outlets to 15amp. Besides, the amount of wire left inside the panel for makeup is much to short to be of any use and needs to be replaced anyway.

Also, not sure how the panel box is mounted, but it looks as though it has just been screwed into the backside of the exterior siding and hanging from that. My guess is unless extremely short screws were used they are now visible from the outside. It would be best if it were framed in and attached to the wall studs leaving the wall cavity open above and below making it easier to do the rough wiring. Personally, I would have picked a panel of greater capacity; you know how fast they can fill-up.

Let’s not forget the GFCI protection needed in the garage as well. It appears he has none, so that needs to be accounted for either by replacing some existing receptacles already installed, or installing GFCI breakers.

Again, since the OP has just started this project I think it best he just remove what has been done thus far and start again fresh after more research and a good solid game plan.

 

[Jeff95TA]

Maybe the OP can sketch up the subpanel with what he plans to use for breakers and wiring, and what each circuit is for. Also include what you're using for the subpanel breaker in the main panel and the wiring associated with it. Then everyone can comment on the overall plan.

 

[Makoto]

While I do appreciate your (and everyone else's) comments I'm only responding to this one because you reiterated a point that I think is in error.

Again, I think the OP needs to start over from scratch.

Most of us if not all would agree that in a garage / shop environment the general purpose branch circuit receptacle outlets would be best at 20amp. This would mean replacing the 14awg the OP has already installed that limit the outlets to 15amp. Besides, the amount of wire left inside the panel for makeup is much to short to be of any use and needs to be replaced anyway.

Maybe that would be best and maybe I'll install a couple 20 amp plugs but I've been doing fine on the 15 amps for about a year now. Ignore the wire in the box, to assume that is all I have or even that it was intended to do what you think is, like i said, and assumption.

Also, not sure how the panel box is mounted, but it looks as though it has just been screwed into the backside of the exterior siding and hanging from that. My guess is unless extremely short screws were used they are now visible from the outside. It would be best if it were framed in and attached to the wall studs leaving the wall cavity open above and below making it easier to do the rough wiring. Personally, I would have picked a panel of greater capacity; you know how fast they can fill-up.

You're wrong in your assumptions here. The box is mounted to boards which are screwed to the studs above and beside the box then the box is also screwed to the 2x4's. It is secure, I appreciate your thoughts but again you have assumed incorrectly.

Let’s not forget the GFCI protection needed in the garage as well. It appears he has none, so that needs to be accounted for either by replacing some existing receptacles already installed, or installing GFCI breakers.

Again, since the OP has just started this project I think it best he just remove what has been done thus far and start again fresh after more research and a good solid game plan.

A more helpful suggestion would be to install a GFCI breaker for the outlets along the left wall. I'll probably do that, its a good idea.

thanks