I need some South Bend Lathe wisdom

[k p]

I'll keep this short...


I'm thinking of going to check out this lathe and I wanted to ask you guys to give me some feedback on what I'm in for.

It's a 10" swing, 32" between centres, uses 2MT, runs on 440v 3-phase, has 1.25" spindle bore

I'd buy a VFD to control it if I can't find a 220v single phase replacement motor.

Anyone know what model this is?
Any specific issues to look for?
Anything in these pictures jump out at you?
Any input on what a VFD setup would cost me?

The asking price is $900

 

[Kevin54]

For $900, that is a real decent price. And it looks like it has been very well taken car of, or someone has put a lot of work into it to refurbish it. Take a close look at the motor. Although some say that it was hooked to 440, it may show the wiring switching of wires to wire for 440/220.

But even if you have to find another motor for it, from the pics you post, it looks like a very good $900 lathe. You may want to look at what else he has in the background too.

Does the lathe come with any extras, or just what you see is what you get? Even with no extras, $900 is a very good price.

I also see what looks to be an Aloris Toolpost. Good money right there especially if he has any other toolholders for it.

 

[kmacht]

The lathe looks like it was repainted at some point while still assembled. This is usually an indication that they are trying to cover up a worn lathes with new paint. $900 is a decent price for a south bend heavy 10 as long as it is in decent shape. The only way you are going to know if this is a good deal is by going to look at it. Try running the handles in and out to see if there is much slop of backlash. A little is fine, alot is not. Look at the bed of the lathe to see if there are any big ridges or if the color/wear looks alot different near the headstock compared to further away. Check the back gears for missing teeth and to ensure the bull pin can be engaged and disengaged. If they don't have power to turn it on and run it bring a mirror and look under the quick change gear box. Spin the spindle around manually and watch the gears in there to make sure none are worn out or missing teeth. Other than that just a good visual inspection to make sure nothing is broken, missing, or worn. If it looks good then buy it. The nice thing about south bend lathes is that as long as they aren't completely worn out you can still get plenty of parts for them.

Keith

 

[Steinmetz]

You're obviously going to have to look beyond the inexpert paint job, and focus on some particulars. For example, door no. 1 conceals a generally unusable (to you) electric motor. What's behind door no. 2?

 

[fomocoforrester]

I would check out that lathe very carefully, especially the following....


-Why were the bearing caps not painted - has someone messed with the bearings or are they from a different lathe?
-Condition of the lead screw near the headstock? - there is no carriage drive shaft - its all done with the lead screw.
-There is no independant half nut lever - manufactures variant?.
-Check the bed wear by closing the tail stock up to the saddle - mount a dial gauge on the saddle reading off the tailstock and run the whole assembly along the bed together and note the deflection (I wouldn't accept more than 0.015")
-I thought the 6 digit serial numbers stopped around 1947 - that lathe looks more like it's from the 60's.
-It looks expensive if there's no tooling with it.
-That is a very poor paint job - see around the number plate and underneath the gearbox.

EDIT - I read the number as 219788 but looking again it looks like 21978R - in which case it's from the early 80's.......

http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_db.htm

(Check out the image of # 22826R from 8/20/1986 .... http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_images/22826R.jpg to see the "missing" half nut lever .... )

 

[spongerich]

If it's in decent shape, that's a lot of lathe for $900.

 

[k p]

For $900, that is a real decent price. And it looks like it has been very well taken car of, or someone has put a lot of work into it to refurbish it. Take a close look at the motor. Although some say that it was hooked to 440, it may show the wiring switching of wires to wire for 440/220.

But even if you have to find another motor for it, from the pics you post, it looks like a very good $900 lathe. You may want to look at what else he has in the background too.

Does the lathe come with any extras, or just what you see is what you get? Even with no extras, $900 is a very good price.

I also see what looks to be an Aloris Toolpost. Good money right there especially if he has any other toolholders for it.

I'm pretty sure what's pictured is all that's included. I figure I can find another motor but having it hooked to a vfd would be nice for varying the speed easily, jogging the motor, easy reverse etc.

The lathe looks like it was repainted at some point while still assembled. This is usually an indication that they are trying to cover up a worn lathes with new paint. $900 is a decent price for a south bend heavy 10 as long as it is in decent shape. The only way you are going to know if this is a good deal is by going to look at it. Try running the handles in and out to see if there is much slop of backlash. A little is fine, alot is not. Look at the bed of the lathe to see if there are any big ridges or if the color/wear looks alot different near the headstock compared to further away. Check the back gears for missing teeth and to ensure the bull pin can be engaged and disengaged. If they don't have power to turn it on and run it bring a mirror and look under the quick change gear box. Spin the spindle around manually and watch the gears in there to make sure none are worn out or missing teeth. Other than that just a good visual inspection to make sure nothing is broken, missing, or worn. If it looks good then buy it. The nice thing about south bend lathes is that as long as they aren't completely worn out you can still get plenty of parts for them.

Keith

I agree about the paint thing, looks sloppy and indicative that they may be trying to cover up some stuff. Thanks alot for the tips for inspecting without power.

I would check out that lathe very carefully, especially the following....


-Why were the bearing caps not painted - has someone messed with the bearings or are they from a different lathe?
-Condition of the lead screw near the headstock? - there is no carriage drive shaft - its all done with the lead screw.
-There is no independant half nut lever - manufactures variant?.
-Check the bed wear by closing the tail stock up to the saddle - mount a dial gauge on the saddle reading off the tailstock and run the whole assembly along the bed together and note the deflection (I wouldn't accept more than 0.015")
-I thought the 6 digit serial numbers stopped around 1947 - that lathe looks more like it's from the 60's.
-It looks expensive if there's no tooling with it.
-That is a very poor paint job - see around the number plate and underneath the gearbox.

EDIT - I read the number as 219788 but looking again it looks like 21978R - in which case it's from the early 80's.......

http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_db.htm

(Check out the image of # 22826R from 8/20/1986 .... http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_images/22826R.jpg to see the "missing" half nut lever .... )

Excellent points, thanks for the comparitive photo and tips. I'll be sure to find out more about the half-nut lever.

 

[metal4130]

First off a VFD for a lathe like that is just about $150 and it is actually preferred because you get features like soft start and more.

Look like a nice Heavy 10 lathe (10L) with the longer 4 or 4-1/2 foot bed. Obviously this was just repainted like many machine dealers do. I'm sure they just slopped it on.

Couple pros are the longer bed length and the fact is is a heavy 10 which makes it desirable. It has the upgraded D-3 spindle rather than a threaded spindle. Has the wide range quick change gear box which is nice. Also has the lever apron clutch which is good. Flame hardened bed is good too.

One con I see there is why is there no half hut lever? This is used for threading and I have not seen another heavy 10 without one. Was it removed or broken or what?