I need to “Re-Light my Gun Safe”

[LSU]

I have a large (about the size of a coat closet) gun safe that needs new lights. The safe has 110v wired into it

The current lights are smaller fluorescent circular lights that I installed about 15 years ago (before LEDs were around). When I installed them I knew they were inadequate.

I’d like to re light the safe because I just can’t see very well inside.

Couple of issues:

The shelves are made out of OSB or something similar so it is tough to get a screw to hold.

I have a hard wired Golden Ride to keep humidity and the temperature constant. The Golden Rod works very well

I do not go in my safe often.

I travel frequently and often will be gone from my house for 4-5 weeks.

I keep watches on an auto winder in the safe along with important papers. The watch winder runs on 110v.

There are two full top shelves that run the width of the safe.

On the left hand side of the safe there is the standard long gun rack.

Right hand side is stack of shelves where I have pistol racks, the watch winder and some files.

I’d like a LED light on the top of each shelf so I could see in them.

Ideally the light wool be cool to the touch and very thin.

I’m guilty of sometimes leaving the lights on so I’ve thought about installing some sort of timer. I’m not a guy who stares at my guns or stuff, I just want to get in and out.

When you’re making suggestions- keep in mind these lights would be controlled by one switch on the inside of the safe (or maybe a motion sensor?) & the lights would have to be very, very thin and run cool. A timer would be a plus.

 

[BillK]

I would go to Home Depot and Lowes and look in the lighting section. Im sure you will find something.

As far as the osb goes they make special screws exactly for that. Or you could use nutserts.

If the lights are going to be controlled by a switch and turned off I dont see why running cool is an issue ? LED's will be cooler than what you have now anyway.

Without pictures or actual dimensions its hard to suggest much more than that.

 

[rlitman]

20 something years ago, I installed an LED rope light around the perimeter of the door opening, with an inline rocker switch on the plug attached in a spot easy to reach. By going full circle around the door, I find there aren't any shadows anywhere, and I didn't need to light individual shelves. YMMV, but rope lights are cheap, and are always cool to the touch.

 

[CoogarXR]

The last under-cabinet kitchen lights would probably fit the bill. Artika Stream,I think was the name. They are thin, flat led panels. Grouped in 3s, with cables connecting the panels in series. You can control them with a switch or their built-in motion detector.

I have some extra ones that I was going to install in the master bedroom closets.

 

[mm08822]

Superbrightleds has some great aluminum strip lighting - selectable lenses, light temps, lengths, etc.

I've used them several times over the past 10 years and no problems to date.

 

[mngundog]

For a seldom used LED, I'd get one battery operated, hung by a magnetic.

 

[BreeStephany]

Use LED under cabinet lighting tape as suggested above and 3M automotive molding tape to attach it to the bottom of the cabinets. You can cut most strip tape in 6" or 1' increments and they have solder pads you can either solder directly to or use a tension fit terminal contact block on to run low voltage wiring back to a single driver.

Most LED tape lighting comes adhesive backed... BUT in my experience, most of the adhesives **** and eventually fail... but 3M automotive molding tape holds tight to most anything.

To solve the problem of forgetting the lighting, wire the 110VAC input of the LED driver to a occupancy sensor. If you already have a wall switch, replace it with occupancy sensor triggered wall switch, but ceiling mounted sensors tend to work best. That way you walk in, lights go on, after you walk out, lights turn off after a set time limit.

Passive Infared (PIR) / Ultrasonic detection "dual technology" sensors are generally the best to ensure that you are always detected when you walk in.

Just my two cents.

 

[kbeefy]

My safe lights are LED strips that use a motion sensor to activate them. The occupancy sensor needs to remain un-obstructed. They are 110v. I've been happy with their performance.

AMZ Light Link

 

[Stuart in MN]

I would use the LED strip lights you cut to length like described above and then wire them through a limit or pushbutton switch that contacts the door. The lights then come on and off when you open the safe, just like how your refrigerator works. Any decent hardware store should have a switch that would work.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

another vote for LED rope or strip lights. home depots has them

 

[LSU]

Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions.

Please keep them coming.

A couple of my own comments:

I’ve not had much luck with battery powered lights & since I’ve got 110v, I’m going to skip the batteries.

My door is “old style” my safe is Fort Knox brand but I’m going to seriously shop for a door switch.

I’m going to look into the motion detector also. My top shelf is set up n a way that a motion detector would trigger as soon as the door opened.

I’ve used 3M tape before and might try it again.

I did not know there were special screws for OSB.

 

[Nofries]

20 something years ago, I installed an LED rope light around the perimeter of the door opening, with an inline rocker switch on the plug attached in a spot easy to reach. By going full circle around the door, I find there aren't any shadows anywhere, and I didn't need to light individual shelves. YMMV, but rope lights are cheap, and are always cool to the touch.

This^^
I did this in our pantry closet, install the lights on the back side of the door jambs facing in towards the shelves. You can 3m tape them and use a motion sensor they will come on when you open the door.
I bought theses and it worked well. If i was home i would take a picture.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088M3VX77?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B9RXHVC?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[aggie113]

I ran a custom length LED strip up the middle and off to the side to cover all the areas I wanted to. Had to use some hot glue on some of the shelves with carpet on the underside to keep them stuck on. Otherwise it just took some time to get the lengths cut to what I wanted and wire and connectors cut where I didn't want LEDs but needed power to get to the next section. Also went with a higher DC voltage to hopefully keep it from going dim in a couple years like my original 12v setup did.

24v LEDs
Solderless connectors
Solderless cross connectors
110AC to 24V DC power supply
24v motion detector
don't forget 20ga electrical wire

 

[LSU]

Aggie - I like the look of that.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

FWIW, avoid Liberty Safe's motion activated lights. I experienced about a 70% failure rate.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

FWIW, avoid Liberty Safe's motion activated lights. I experienced about a 70% failure rate.

interesting. i have them and havent had an issue

 

[SouthernIllinois]

interesting. i have them and havent had an issue

The motion activated function was the problem. Either they wouldn't come on or wouldn't turn off reliably.

 

[Tinkerer2]

I need a reliable battery powered solution. I do not have 120v available in the closet where the safe is. Any ideas?

Or maybe Li-ion power bank powered.

 

[aggie113]

I need a reliable battery powered solution. I do not have 120v available in the closet where the safe is. Any ideas?

Or maybe Li-ion power bank powered.

Something like this? Only downside is you'll need to recharge them but at least it looks like they can all sync up to one motion sensor...

GlowRight Smart+ Everywhere Light

3 Sensors - Smart Home Made Easy Sync Lights for Whole-Area Glow Connectable For Customizable Lengths Charge & Glow, plus Strong Battery Adjustable Timer, Color & Brightness No Handyman & Tech Guy Needed

glowright.co

 

[LSU]

Anyone have an Amazon link for screws that will hold in OSB?

 

[LSU]

Aggie, why do I need 20 gauge electrical wire?

 

[Tinkerer2]

Anyone have an Amazon link for screws that will hold in OSB?

I'd use 1/4"-20 T-Nuts

 

[rlitman]

Anyone have an Amazon link for screws that will hold in OSB?

Ever see the screws that come with Ikea furniture. They're basically #10 coarse thread wood screws with the tapered tip part cut off. Pre-drilling to the right size is critical!

 

[aggie113]

Aggie, why do I need 20 gauge electrical wire?

The wire is to carry the power from one segment to another. That way you don't have LEDs running places they don't need to be. Keeps the cost down.