I prefer T-bars (very technical schematic included)

[COclaw]

So I've always been a little odd in the fact that I prefer sliding T-bars to ratchets. I'm sure we can get into a debate (and I'm perfectly willing to ) about how weird that is and how dumb I am (that, I won't debate) but I've never found a t-bar that was able to slide all the way to the end of the bar without a little "nub" sticking off the end that 60 percent of the time gets in the way every time. Does someone make a t-bar with a recess in the T to allow it to stop all the way at the end of the bar?

I've attached my cutting-edge schematic as a reference in case all that **** I just spewed doesn't make sense. Feast your eyes on this...

 

[COclaw]

And just to clarify this is not the type of T-bar I am referring to (this time).

 

[mdlbldrmatt135]

.....

 

[archirelic]

You're both wrong, that's LUNCH!!

 

[buening]

You're both wrong, that's LUNCH!!

So is that where the saying "there's no free lunch" comes from?

 

[jjjrmx5]

I thought that was a Whale Tail?????

LOL. I thought the same thing, whale tail.

As for the t-bars, I have several that use a small knurlled pattern at the end of the bar to stop the sliding driver and no nubbin'.

I'm not sure how much closer to the end you wnat the nub stops to be as they they have to have enough room to be (I assume) welded and not fail thus the fudge factor.

You could always grind the nub off, then drill and tap a small hole right at the end and put a set screw in there right at the edge that has a small portion still sticking out to stop the slider.

Other option is to grind off nubbin' and drill and tap the end of teh bar and use some type of stop or washer and bolt to keep teh slider on.

My question is does that extra 1/8" of slide space really make a difference?

 

[Obie]

I don't own them, but according to their catalog, the Wright Sliding T Bars are held in place by friction balls that drop into turned down sections of the rod. Says the T will slide all the way to the end.

Part numbers are:
3/8" - 3443 - 7" Length
1/2" - 4443 - 10 11/16" Length
3/4" - 6443 - 17 1/2" Length
1" - 8443 - 22" Length

 

[COclaw]

I thought that was a Whale Tail?????

You're both wrong, that's LUNCH!!

T-bar, whale tail, uhh... lunch. Call it whatever you want to I just wanted to clarify. Well, that and distract people away from my wicked awesome schmatic. I don't need people pestering me to help make computer aided designs for all their stuff.

LOL. I thought the same thing, whale tail.

As for the t-bars, I have several that use a small knurlled pattern at the end of the bar to stop the sliding driver and no nubbin'.

I'm not sure how much closer to the end you wnat the nub stops to be as they they have to have enough room to be (I assume) welded and not fail thus the fudge factor.

You could always grind the nub off, then drill and tap a small hole right at the end and put a set screw in there right at the edge that has a small portion still sticking out to stop the slider.

Other option is to grind off nubbin' and drill and tap the end of teh bar and use some type of stop or washer and bolt to keep teh slider on.

My question is does that extra 1/8" of slide space really make a difference?

A set screw would probably work but that kinda defeats the purpose of the slide. Something about another dude telling me about grinding nubbins makes me feel... dirty.

I don't own them, but according to their catalog, the Wright Sliding T Bars are held in place by friction balls that drop into turned down sections of the rod. Says the T will slide all the way to the end.

Part numbers are:
3/8" - 3443 - 7" Length
1/2" - 4443 - 10 11/16" Length
3/4" - 6443 - 17 1/2" Length
1" - 8443 - 22" Length

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Sir!

 

[Monte]

Stahlwille has one too

 

[b225]

Stahlwille has one too

Triangle tools too.

 

[sk farmer]

60 percent of the time gets in the way every time.

I've attached my cutting-edge schematic as a reference in case all that **** I just spewed doesn't make sense. Feast your eyes on this...

i get your scematic. it's this damn statement that gets me.

60 percent of the time would be 3 in 5 or 6 in 10 while every time is well......every time or 100% of the time.

me. can't recall using a t-bat lately. ratchets, spinners and breakers are the ticket.

 

[Obie]

Just checked out Harry J. Epsteins and they are $15.25, $24.30, $47.30, and $89.30, respectively. Epsteins is an awesome place to get tools. I don't know if you're familiar with Wright, but they have quite a following on this board. In my opinion, they are the best American tool manufacturer on the block. Every single tool I own of theirs is absolutely top notch, in every way.

 

[COclaw]

i get your scematic. it's this damn statement that gets me.

60 percent of the time would be 3 in 5 or 6 in 10 while every time is well......every time or 100% of the time.

me. can't recall using a t-bat lately. ratchets, spinners and breakers are the ticket.

60 percent of the time it works every time is just a quote from a movie that I obviously overuse.

Like I said in the original post... I just likes me some T-bars. They're my preference.

 

[davesnothere]

I prefer booby bars to other kinds of bars.

 

[Monte]

Stahlwille:

 

[lwlobo]

Obie for the win with the Wright play, but Monte scores a last second draw with Stahlwille pics.

This, my friends, is GarageJournal at its best.

 

[COclaw]

Obie for the win with the Wright play, but Monte scores a last second draw with Stahlwille pics.

This, my friends, is GarageJournal at its best.

Well screw it then, I'll just have to get both.

Obie and Monte, you guys rock!

Thanks again!

 

[PinkLinc]

Wouldn't drilling and tapping that be extremely difficult? Tool steel is super hard... not to mention that piece is round. I once tried to drill a pretty small hole through a Cman raised panel wrench using a high quality HSS bit and drilling compound. That wrench just laughed at me... How would you do it?

 

[cgv69]

And just to clarify this is not the type of T-bar I am referring to (this time).

Shame cause that type of t-bar is a lot more interesting

 

[Ign]

If you've already got them, remove the detent ball, c-bore or c-sink the body and drill and tap the ends of the sliding handle for fastener head style of your choice. This is basically how students make T-tap wrenches in school since "crimping" the end of the round stock is less practical in an average machine shop. (I guess you'd have to do an honest assessment if removing material from the body would weaken it considerably).

 

[lok]

There is also a very good video of "someone" with a stahlwille Sliding Bar.

 

[digdug18]

Wouldn't drilling and tapping that be extremely difficult? Tool steel is super hard... not to mention that piece is round. I once tried to drill a pretty small hole through a Cman raised panel wrench using a high quality HSS bit and drilling compound. That wrench just laughed at me... How would you do it?

Drilling and tapping wouldn't be that hard, you need to anneal the outside with a torch first though, if the handle is indeed hardened. If you have access to a mill it will be easiest for you to do this.

 

[earlthegoat2]

60 percent of the time it works every time is just a quote from a movie that I obviously overuse.

Like I said in the original post... I just likes me some T-bars. They're my preference.

I like Anchorman too.

 

[COclaw]

I like Anchorman too.

Well player, Sir.