I REALLY REALLY need your help :(

[legen27]

Hey everybody

So I will explain it from beginning so you can understand what is going on and sorry if it is a bit long but I really need your

Like a month ago my car's rear passenger side brakes started to make this noise I was like k I might need to look into it but it was just a noise so last week it started to grind my rotors I didn't even need to hear it I was feeling it when I was braking and especially when I come to 1-10 miles an hour it was feeling so bad. Anyways I ordered a rotor and brake pads and today I tried to change them.

So what I saw was "inner pad" was completely gone like there was just this metal plate after pads it was grinding the metal plate under the pads but when I looked at the outer pad it had like 50% life on it I was like "what?" anyways I tried to put the new rotor on but thanks to that website they sent me the wrong rotor so I put the old rotor back and new brake pads (they are the right size) and tried to put the caliper back on (I twisted my caliper piston as much as I can with that weird cubic tool and btw it was so so hard to do it like what the hell... and I took my brake fluid cap off while doing it) but it wasn't fitting like there wasn't enough space between brake pads and the caliper so I had to confirm my theory and put the outer pad with 50% life back to outer pad spot and now my caliper would fit and I was able to put everything back.

So I did put everything back and pumped my brakes then I came back to the rotor and tried to move it with my hands it was so hard to move it I was literally using a lot of power to turn the rotor. So I put the tire back and drove to this 2.6 miles away car shop who told me they do free brake inspection and I made it there without any problem but I am sure my brake pads was hot as hell.

Summary they didn't tell me anything but you need new rotors and pads and they didn't even tell me anything when I asked why my rotor wasn't moving freely. They said I put one new and the old pad back it was why. LoL.

Anyways so it is where I stuck I don't know what the problem is, what I think is it is the caliper piston that doesn't work properly since I got inner pad 0% outer 50% and my slider pins work fine I just lubricated them.

Caliper piston was so hard to twist back in even with the special cubic tool and it got damaged when I twisted the piston back in as much as I can and also brake fluid cap was open.

I really need your help or I will need to pay 80 bucks just to learn what the problem was I know some of you here knows what the problem is and can save my life.

 

[58Yeoman]

Sounds like the piston is stuck in the caliper, and was keeping your inside pad on the rotor at all times. If you change one caliper, change them both.

 

[850xpeps]

Caliber guide bolts sticking not letting it centre. Usually not a caliper issue it's the guide bolts that let it slide side to side.


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[jumbojak]

Sounds like the piston is stuck in the caliper, and was keeping your inside pad on the rotor at all times. If you change one caliper, change them both.

Indeed. It's time to replace the caliper, both rotors, and the pads. None of which is particularly difficult.

 

[legen27]

Sounds like the piston is stuck in the caliper, and was keeping your inside pad on the rotor at all times. If you change one caliper, change them both.

Can it be just the brake hose ? I heard it might the the caliper's itself or the hose.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Indeed. It's time to replace the caliper, both rotors, and the pads. None of which is particularly difficult.

^^^ +1 Once and done...

 

[DGersic]

Yes, a failed hose could cause the caliper to stick. Open the bleeder, see if it retracts. Then replace the hoses too, if you're already doing rotors, pads, and calipers. Check the hard lines while you're in there, if you live where rust is a problem.


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[rnscustom]

Could be piston or guides , guides can be cleaned up and re greased , piston could be stuck also , you will have to figure out which it is , if your not too familiar with them might be best bet to buy loaded calipers and have everything new .

 

[matt_i]

Indeed. It's time to replace the caliper, both rotors, and the pads. None of which is particularly difficult.

Agreed this is the best path to success. Also can replace the hose while you are at it but they are pretty tough, as in long-lived.

 

[John in OH]

Can it be just the brake hose ? I heard it might the the caliper's itself or the hose.

I agree with the other folks here regarding complete replacement of the caliper, rotor and pads. I've heard others say that a hose can be the source of similar problems, but never encountered such a hose problem myself and find it hard to understand how a hose could be at fault.

Can anyone actually explain how or why a hose could cause this problem?? Other than an actual hose rupture, how can a hose fail ??

 

[Bring Spares Along]

The hose can break down on the inside and act as a one way valve keeping pressure on the piston. I've seen it twice in 30 + years of mucking around with cars. If you're replacing calipers you may as well do the hoses too.

 

[Sycan]

Have heard that the hose can have a piece of rubber separate and work like a check valve, fluid can go towards the caliper but can't return making the brake drag. What I always told customers with a dragging brake was new caliper and hose, 100% of the time that fixed it. Which one fixed it is unknown, but if your changing the caliper you may as well change the hose.

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[jumbojak]

Caliber guide bolts sticking not letting it centre. Usually not a caliper issue it's the guide bolts that let it slide side to side.


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I've seen two stuck pins cause excessive, even wear on the outer pad and a single stuck pin cause excessive, uneven wear on the inner pad but never seen two stuck pins cause even wear on an inner pad. Unless I'm missing something I don't see how that would happen. The pins pull the outer pad in when the piston moves, so inner pad wear should be attributed to the piston.

Now you have me questioning myself...

 

[Tonyuk]

If the pins aren't sticking then its a piston or main seal issue.

Best to replace both sides with re-conditioned calipers, as well as new rotors + pads. After that bleed the brakes and go for a drive to bed them in.

Its not unusual for brake pad wear to be slightly bias towards the side with the piston, but that amount of wear definitely indicates a problem with the brake releasing.

 

[58Yeoman]

The hose can break down on the inside and act as a one way valve keeping pressure on the piston. I've seen it twice in 30 + years of mucking around with cars. If you're replacing calipers you may as well do the hoses too.

Many years ago, I had the hoses break down on a 46 Ford 1/2T PU. The fluid couldn't release fast enough, and the brakes would drag or lock up. Last month, I replaced all the wheel cylinders and front hoses on my 58 Chevy, that I had last done in the early 90's.

All the cylinders were beyond rebuilding, and one front hose was completely plugged. I honestly don't know how the brakes stopped the car at all w/o veering off to the side violently. Brake hoses were really cheap at NAPA.

 

[Fueler]

I have had the hose problem on chevy, ford and chrysler. It happens. Guess I keep them too long.
As a SOP these days I get hoses along with the rotors, pads, slider bolts and calipers.
One trip and done that way.

 

[Blk88GT]

Needs a pair of calipers, rotors and pads.

 

[Fastfish]

Have to agree with all posts here. Each time I do a brake job I always install rebuilt calipers and new pads. New flex lines when any hint or possibility of sticking or if they are just old. Could not always afford to do it that way, but realized that often it saves in the long run if you install new pads then a caliper sticks you will need to buy the pads again.

 

[Throbbin Rods]

What kind of car? Not all caliper pistons twist to retract. Some just require a C Clamp. I know VW uses the twist piston, not sure who else does.

 

[blair683]

Alot of fords use the twist caliper on the rear because of the emergency brake I believe. I did a few Ford and mercury mini vans like that. That cube tool is a real PITA to.

 

[exranger06]

What kind of car? Not all caliper pistons twist to retract. Some just require a C Clamp. I know VW uses the twist piston, not sure who else does.

General rule of thumb is if the parking brake is integrated into the caliper, you need to twist the piston back in. If the parking brake is separate from the caliper and uses the "drum-in-rotor" style parking brake, you can simply push the piston back in without twisting it.

 

[legen27]

General rule of thumb is if the parking brake is integrated into the caliper, you need to twist the piston back in. If the parking brake is separate from the caliper and uses the "drum-in-rotor" style parking brake, you can simply push the piston back in without twisting it.

What kind of car? Not all caliper pistons twist to retract. Some just require a C Clamp. I know VW uses the twist piston, not sure who else does.

Yes, my e brakes are connected to rear brake calipers.

Also I bought new rotor and a caliper with new bracket and hardware also I have the new brake pads, oh and I bought a new brake hose just in care it is 11-12 dollars with free shipping on ebay anyway

also for the people asking it is 2005 Chevy Malibu LS v6 3.5L

 

[legen27]

Just to make an update. I just installed my new brake caliper and bracket and bleed the air and now it is perfect, rotor spins freely so the problem was brake caliper. I didn't touch the hose since it works and I bleed the brake caliper on the old brake caliper so all the dirt and other stuff in the hose got cleaned and I am happy I did it on old caliper because I saw lots of black metal particles came out when I did it so all that stuff was going into the new caliper. Anyways I hope it might help other people in the future.

 

[jumbojak]

That's grea!