I Searched, Now I Ask - Compressor Plumbing

[cwood3]

I did search, I promise, I swear I did....and I found a lot of good information. So I'll be specific.

I have a 2-car garage. I have a lathe, mill, all kinds of air tools....and do some painting on various projects from gitars to cars.

There are a lot of new products and methodologies out there as far as how to do the "trick" set-up on the compressed air plumbing, hich I feel is extremely important.

I do not mind one bit going with an all ridgid copper (3/4") system, with 1/2" drops, water filters, bleed valves..etc. If that is, hands down, the best way. I have no problem whatsoever making good solid, good looking solder joints.

But am I missing something? I'm 54, we never had the new flexible, snap together, semi ridgid, e-i-e-i-o stuf that is available today. I'll bet some of it is really cool, and I bet a lot is junk.

I need to get going on this. Budget is not a big issue. I don't need to go way overkill, but I just want to do it the best way that makes sense for a small oeration. Neatness counts....did I mention that neatness counts...???

Come on guys and toss out some of that wisdom.

Thanks,

curtis

 

[rust buster]

I went through the same search as you and ended up doing my setup in half copper and half airnet. The only reason I did half was because I had a bunch of type M copper left over, so I used that up. I was very impressed with the airnet and have nothing but good things to say about it. It was fast, easy, and no leaks to date. Here's a link
http://rapidairproducts.com/airnet.asp

 

[Spareparts]

Probally not what you asked but you mentioned the Mill and Lathe, using compressed air to clean them is not a good idea. It gets dirt and small pieces of metal into the gibs and ways causing excessive wear. I use a 2" paint to clean up the chips and wipe it down. I will blow the chip tray and around the area with air but not on anything that has a slide.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

I went all copper because it is tried and true. No issues what so ever.

 

[larry_g]

But am I missing something? I'm 54, we never had the new flexible, snap together, semi ridgid, e-i-e-i-o stuf that is available today. I'll bet some of it is really cool, and I bet a lot is junk.
Thanks,

curtis

You haven't been paying attention then. That wizzy stuff came out in the '80s in the industrial world and is now filtering into the home arena. That said It's hard to beat copper for a good distribution system and then convert to flex and pushloc style for the termination. For an air blower or a mist system the 1/8" tubing works fine, is flexible and convenient.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[4AudiQ]

3/4" copper, in a 3 car garage with 5 drops.

 

[fflintstone]

I hear PVC is easy.

copper is about double black pipe.
copper is SUPOSED to be brazed, not soldered.

you can get USA made black pipe cut to lenght at a plumbing supply.

 

[TOOL_MONGER]

Going through this same dilema myself. I have priced out an Airnet system for my shop... about $550 for the pipe and fittings I need. I live in the sticks with out a local source so I would have to pay over $150 in freight. Im stuck, not sure what I want to do.

 

[CNGsaves]

Going through this same dilema myself. I have priced out an Airnet system for my shop... about $550 for the pipe and fittings I need. I live in the sticks with out a local source so I would have to pay over $150 in freight. Im stuck, not sure what I want to do.

Black pipe steel available at local hardware stores?? Less than $1/ft and will last a lifetime when complete. Run the mainline up around perimeter of garage and add drops where necessary.

 

[TOOL_MONGER]

Black pipe steel available at local hardware stores?? Less than $1/ft and will last a lifetime when complete. Run the mainline up around perimeter of garage and add drops where necessary.

There is no doubt that black iron or copper works well. I took the OP as asking about a better/best/new way to do it. Which if price is not a problem he cant really go wrong with any of those methods... I was just adding my experience with pricing on the newer method... If I can find somewhere that stocks the pipe so I don't have to ship it, I will be going with airnet...

 

[plow]

Sch. 40 PVC.

 

[srmofo]

Rapid air has finally brought the aluminum pipe product (found in industry that requires 'clean' air) to the home.

I think its called fast pipe. I saw to packages in Northern tool. 100' and a 235' package

Edit Yup..certainly not cheap though
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...rs+air-compressor-accessories+air-piping-kits

 

[MFolks]

I've read bad things about using the thinner PVC tubing, and how if it explodes, the pieces can become life threatening. Also if it lets go when you're not around, the compressor will run, trying to pressurize the system(that is if you don't have it shut off and the system bled down).

Black iron pipe is one way to run air lines, unfortunately, most of the pipe is out of China, with leaky joints. I had a buddy some years ago, try to use Chinese pipe for a gas furnace, after completion, he had to take all the fittings apart & use a tap and die to stop all the leaks. So if you use this route, check the fittings for tightness before assembly.

 

[jduffle]

I have seen numerous posts flaming people for using pvc for airline.....stating that it "could" shatter......

HOWEVER my fathers garage has been plumbed with pvc airline for over 10 years without any issues.....

 

[Fixnair]

Do not use PVC for compressed air. While it may be suitable for the pressure it will degrade with each pressure cycle and will eventually yield, often catastrophically.

 

[srmofo]

I hear PVC is easy.

copper is about double black pipe.
copper is SUPOSED to be brazed, not soldered.

you can get USA made black pipe cut to lenght at a plumbing supply.

You just had to start that didnt you,lol

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

cwood3, Just IGNORE everyone who says anything about PVC. My brother in law did his garage in it years ago, its never failed him in the 20+ years and I'd still NEVER consider using it.

Next...

 

[cwood3]

OK guys, thanks. Let me take a moment to qualify a few things. I am a degreed Mechanical Engineer in the oil/gas business, with special emphasis in materials selection, welding, and gas compression.

#1, copper can be better joined by using silver-based solder, thus creating a cleaner joint than standard readily available brazing filler metals and methods. I can actually TIG weld copper pipe all day long.

#2, PVC, while it does work, and I have even used it in the past, is not the proper material from a safety standpoint. When black iron or copper, or justabout any metallic pipe bursts, it does so in a "splitting" fashion due to it's ductility. PVC, while strong, is also brittle. It "shatters". I know people go through years of no problems, but I had a buddy that had no driving accidents for 47 years, then one day got hit by a freight train.....go figure.

Maybe what I was really after was opinions on the "airnet", "durapipe"..etc., etc.

Maybe I'll just stick with copper because I can go to Lowe'sor Hme Depot around the corner to get fittings, valves, etc. with no shipping,mussor fuss.....

Thanks all....I will post reports and updates, as I thin this topic is of more interst to a lot of folks thanmeets the eye.

(I need a beer)

 

[Gunnert]

I ran into the same dilemma about 2 years ago. Decided to run 3/4 copper in the overhead with 3 drops. Each drop has a coupling, ball valve, and moisture/sep. This is one thing that when it's done right you'll never have to do it again!

 

[Fueler]

OK, I have first hand experience with the PVC easy way.
Yes, some have been successful but lucky, real lucky I think.

I was not. Second day.. BOOM. I mean a real serious, come to Jesus BOOM.
Blew a hole right through the insulation and steel roof panel....on a rainy day.
The offending tubing was a foot away from the roof.

I swear people told me it would be fine, no problemo, yada yada.
Just lucky I was on the other side of the shop.

What was I thinking? My inner machinist knew better.
Black pipe after that. (the click together stuff was new and untested at the time)

 

[bizkit10]

I have zero complaints on the 3/4" Maxline from rapidair. But i've only had it up with pressure since last November. Super easy to install. I bought it because I mainly wanted something different.

 

[Mandres]

OK, I have first hand experience with the PVC easy way.
Yes, some have been successful but lucky, real lucky I think.

I was not. Second day.. BOOM. I mean a real serious, come to Jesus BOOM.
Blew a hole right through the insulation and steel roof panel....on a rainy day.
The offending tubing was a foot away from the roof.

I swear people told me it would be fine, no problemo, yada yada.
Just lucky I was on the other side of the shop.

What was I thinking? My inner machinist knew better.
Black pipe after that. (the click together stuff was new and untested at the time)

sold, no pvc for me. That's the kind of story I don't need to hear more than once.

In my area 10' black pipe and 10' copper pipe are about the same price. I'm definitely going with copper for the ease of installation.

 

[Fueler]

I was just grateful the break happened up high rather than body level.
It would have been my luck that someone else other than me could have been hurt or worse.

 

[amolaver]

so if going with the rapidair maxline stuff (3/4"), anyone find any alternatives to their M8011 T's? http://www.eautotools.com/RapidAir-3-4in-MaxLine-Tee-Fitting-Model-M8011-p/m8011.htm or M8067/M8022 elbows/unions

$20/fitting seems a little, i don't know, insane.. Terminating the drops with M7510V ($37) or M8201V ($47 dual port) also is a little bonkers... i like the pipe, but the fittings pricing is making seriously consider black pipe.

ahm

 

[Jack 07]

Subscribed, not needed yet but will soon.

 

[fluid power]

Trainsair is available at local industrial suppliers. They more than likely have the required fittings and in stock. Mine does, and I am in Columbus Ohio. Most industrial suppliers have a will call and will order in the parts on stock orders and not charge incoming freight. Never hurts to look them up and ask. Just my .02

http://www.transair-usa.com/

Darren

 

[Garage Dog]

Black pipe and copper are both sufficient, safe and available locally.

Pick one you like to work with and get to work unless you like the looks of one of the systems and the money doesn't matter, then buy what you like.

 

[Strouty]

My thought would be copper, here are my reasons:

no rust
no explosions
availability
if you need to change it, it is easy and there will always be a hardware store with parts
it transfers heat (condenses moisture well)
it will become more valuable over time (scrap copper)

I am sure I have missed something, but that is my vote.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Copper or Black Iron? (PVC isn't even a consideration)

Home made or commercial?

If you're doing this in your garage, you're going to be modifying and customizing to fit. If you have the cash, then the commercial stuff is very nice and versatile. But fittings are going to be hard to get on a Sunday afternoon when you decide to reconfigure, so keep extras just in case.

For me, the black iron or copper is a good question.

Black iron means cutting and threading pipe. I don't mind that terribly as it means using TOOLS to do it. Yeah, you may have to go out and buy a threading set for $100-200, but hey, it's a tool. Who needs an excuse to buy more tools?

That said, while copper is more expensive, it is also easy to work with, no special tools, and can be modified on the fly. But it also is a target for thieves, so you may find your garage robbed one day not of your tools, but of your precious pipes.

It's hard to say. So many pros and cons. I think I'll go with copper this spring myself. If only because it's something you can sell for recycling later if need be.

 

[marinusdees]

Correctly it's "problema"

 

[BellyUpFish]

You copper guys use M, L or K thickness?

 

[79mudbugg]

I think most people have went through this! I went with airnet myself can't say bad things bout it but I can say I love the way it looks!! Also was a breeze to put up with no help just me and no burn marks nowhere. The prices I found at www. Aluminumairpipe.com matched what my system was goin 2 be in copper and altas co. makes airnet which is a huge company. Their prices are cheaper than rapidair and shipping is a standard price. (Which I didn't have a 20ft trailer no how)
I'm planing on doin a post on my install soon with pics

 

[bullnerd]

I've worked in shops with all three and every combination.
PVC-exploded on me twice while changing a quick connect.
BP-will eventually rust inside.You know at the end of the day when you blow the chips off your arms and clothes....thats when you'll feel the rust.
Copper.......nothing bad comes to mind.
I also worked in a cabinet shop that had two rubber airhoses,one at each end of the shop.They where high quality,didnt kink or lay funny.I remember my first day I thought ,no way this will work. Actually it worked very good and was easier than you'd think to keep track of the hose end.

 

[macdabs]

I have used Black iron and copper in the past also. I installed two kits of the Rapid Air Max line in my new shop and it looks good and was easy to install.

To keep it straight just push the roll through a piece of 1'' emt when unrolling. My building is a steel building so I ran the rapid air on the columns in a 8ft stick of the emt so everything looked straight on the drops and it added a layer of protection also. The 3/4'' Max air line fits perfectly into the 1'' Emt .

MAC

 

[sberry]

I understand what you are after. The trick is minimum for air and no hydrants with hoses to connect/unconnect. It should be done at the tool. A couple places maybe for fixed whips and a hose reel. Use a T instead of an elbow or coupling in a spot. I wouldnt pre plan every detail, get something in mind, add a fitting on if needed. 1/2 pipe is fine for all of it in a garage and I like black, screw another fitting on.