I should run away, right?

[35k0]

1984 Menards 6'' jointer, supposedly it runs good...
Can I get replacement knives? Maybe, maybe not?
I assume this was a mass produced unit that was badged by several different names. No info that a could find on this model.
Guy is asking $100 obo. I would offer $50 or $60 if I went for it.

 

[Craptain]

Just buy it. It's probably Chinesium but if it works it's fine. Knives can be found or made relatively easily.

 

[brownbagg]

its worth it

 

[GreenIron]

What they said.

 

[PoorUB]

I would rather pay $50, but I would pay $100.
Yes it is an import, the "made in Tiawan" confirmed that, but it looks like a solid machine.

Blades? That may be a challenge, but try Grizzly tools, they might have a set that fit.

 

[ForrestT]

Blades can be sharpened. Looks like a good tool and worth the risk.

 

[Pexto]

The switch is a little funky, and the tables are a bit rusty, but overall it looks pretty good and probably worth the money.

A lot of those mid-80s tools from Taiwan are actually pretty decent, and the motors aren't bad.

You might try an image search to try and find similar models. Most likely that same jointer was made under a number of different brands. If you're lucky you might be able to find a manual for it.

 

[35k0]

Thanks guys! I’ll see what I can do.

 

[LSU]

Let us know what you decide.

 

[35k0]

Let us know what you decide.

Will do, might be able to look at it at lunch tomorrow.

 

[brownbagg]

i saw this old lady on you tube selling a car. it wasnt a bad price, nice car. but this guy offer her a big low ball price, and she said" if i was going sell it for that price dont you think i would of listed it for that price" and then turn around and walked off.

so I always figured, if it worth a $100, pay the guy the $100, he properly needs the money

but back to your deal. I think its worth the money

 

[lilredex]

Looks a lot like the Jet jointer that I have had for about thirty years......

JJ-6CSDX, 6" Deluxe Jointer with QS Knives

JET JJ-6CSDX, 6-Inch Woodworking Jointer (708457DXK)

jettools.com

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Guy is asking $100 obo. I would offer $50 or $60 if I went for it.

Would you make the offer personally or over the net?
I placed an add one evening and the very next day I had a couple of queries. Item cost $250. The one fellow mentioned he really needed the item. Others were available on the same platform. Mine was in excellent condition and priced fairly. He makes me an offer of $200 and then tries to tell me that my description is unlikely.
I email him back and tell him if it still is for sale on the weekend he can have it for $200.
I sold it the next day for full asking price. The guy that bought the item went over it with a fine tooth comb. Left fully satisfied. The bargain hunter went without.

 

[35k0]

Would you make the offer personally or over the net?
I placed an add one evening and the very next day I had a couple of queries. Item cost $250. The one fellow mentioned he really needed the item. Others were available on the same platform. Mine was in excellent condition and priced fairly. He makes me an offer of $200 and then tries to tell me that my description is unlikely.
I email him back and tell him if it still is for sale on the weekend he can have it for $200.
I sold it the next day for full asking price. The guy that bought the item went over it with a fine tooth comb. Left fully satisfied. The bargain hunter went without.

FWIW He got it two years ago from his father in law, has no use for it and has make an offer below the $100 ask.
I’m not saying I would’t pay full ask, but since it says make offer, I’m inclined to haggle. We will see how it goes.

 

[tool_scrounge]

FWIW He got it two years ago from his father in law, has no use for it and has make an offer below the $100 ask.
I’m not saying I would’t pay full ask, but since it says make offer, I’m inclined to haggle. We will see how it goes.

People can be weird. I was in Oklahoma once and responded to a 30 day old Craigslist ad for a Fluke 87 volt meter with case for $100obo. He still had it, so I drove over to see it. It was in OK shape so I offered him $80. He was terribly insulted and refused to entertain any offer.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

FWIW He got it two years ago from his father in law, has no use for it and has make an offer below the $100 ask.
I’m not saying I would’t pay full ask, but since it says make offer, I’m inclined to haggle. We will see how it goes.

Good luck on the offer. My adds never state OBO, yours does. It kind of defeats the purpose of putting a price on an item in my opinion. I get enough low ballers. Not saying you are one. When someone asks if the item is still available. I say yes and if inclined at the time mention price is firm especially if I just placed the add.

 

[genog]

....The bargain hunter went without.

100 bucks? Come on now.
If you need it, then don't be the chiseler that ends up without

 

[35k0]

Going to pick it up for ask this morning. Will post after I get it home and set up.

 

[35k0]

Picked it up for $100. Needs some cleanup and lubrication, but it runs smooth.





Thanks for all the assistance.

 

[wrenchr]

i saw this old lady on you tube selling a car. it wasnt a bad price, nice car. but this guy offer her a big low ball price, and she said" if i was going sell it for that price dont you think i would of listed it for that price" and then turn around and walked off.

so I always figured, if it worth a $100, pay the guy the $100, he properly needs the money

but back to your deal. I think its worth the money

What bothers me is when they list it as OBO or make an offer and then will not budge. if it is firm then state that. Not sure how the OP is listed. Just bugs me.

 

[35k0]

He posted it OBO and I offered $80 but he said he had a guy coming to get it Friday for $100.
Who knows, but it seems worth the Hundo.

 

[dchawk81]

Sometimes I wonder if some people think OBO means "or more than that."

As if someone is actually going to offer above their ask or they expect a bidding war.

 

[Pexto]

How do you plan to clean up the tables? I like to scrape as much as possible, then use a scotchbrite pad or fine wet/dry paper to finish up before a coat of paste wax. One pretty good way to scrape rust is to clamp a utility knife blade in vise-grips; it's very controllable and fairly fast.

 

[35k0]

How do you plan to clean up the tables? I like to scrape as much as possible, then use a scotchbrite pad or fine wet/dry paper to finish up before a coat of paste wax. One pretty good way to scrape rust is to clamp a utility knife blade in vise-grips; it's very controllable and fairly fast.

Thanks for the tips, was just reading up on the best way to clean the table up.

 

[RTM]

How do you plan to clean up the tables? I like to scrape as much as possible, then use a scotchbrite pad or fine wet/dry paper to finish up before a coat of paste wax. One pretty good way to scrape rust is to clamp a utility knife blade in vise-grips; it's very controllable and fairly fast.

I use a regular single sided razor blade at a high angle. I find the utility blades too stiff for my liking. But keep it high angle, else you may dig in.

 

[metaldad]

i hit with a wire wheel and a liberal kroil spritz

 

[exmaxima1]

People can be weird. I was in Oklahoma once and responded to a 30 day old Craigslist ad for a Fluke 87 volt meter with case for $100obo. He still had it, so I drove over to see it. It was in OK shape so I offered him $80. He was terribly insulted and refused to entertain any offer.

If that is a first generation Fluke 87 your $80 offer was more than fair. That would be about 20 years old. I bought my Fluke 87 at a Grainger sale for $100 around 1998, and I would expect them to lose value over the years.

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

Sometimes I wonder if some people think OBO means "or more than that."

As if someone is actually going to offer above their ask or they expect a bidding war.

They think it means "Or Better Offer", lol!

 

[35k0]

They think it means "Or Better Offer", lol!

 

[Renegade1LI]

Use your belt sander start with 220 and go up to 800, or stop anywhere in between . You can keep going up to 1500 if you want that mirror look., If you don’t use it alot clear coat the top when polished, no maintenance.

 

[Davefr]

When it comes to a joiner, the quality depends a lot on your attention to detail in tuning it up. (ie Sharpening and setting the blades, aligning fence, table, etc.)

 

[PCustoms]

Use your belt sander start with 220 and go up to 800, or stop anywhere in between . You can keep going up to 1500 if you want that mirror look., If you don’t use it alot clear coat the top when polished, no maintenance.

Oh Lord, please don't belt sand the table of a joiner!

 

[Renegade1LI]

Oh Lord, please don't belt sand the table of a joiner!

My experience I’ve had great success using the belt sander, checking with my starrett straight edge they’re flat. More importantly checking the wood that i plane its flat And square, your results may vary.

 

[ForrestT]

Looks a lot like the Jet jointer that I have had for about thirty years......

JJ-6CSDX, 6" Deluxe Jointer with QS Knives

JET JJ-6CSDX, 6-Inch Woodworking Jointer (708457DXK)

jettools.com

Yep and if memory serves me correctly I believe powermatic had a made in Taiwan model too in that same time period. I believe mine was made in the same time frame. I’ll have to look out in shop.

 

[Nutria]

I use a regular single sided razor blade at a high angle. I find the utility blades too stiff for my liking. But keep it high angle, else you may dig in.

+1. I also ease the corners of the blade a bit to prevent scratching, and I use WD40 for a lube with the blade. Then usually some 0000 steel wool with WD40, then mineral spirits for cleanup, then denatured alcohol, and finish with paste wax.

 

[rharman]

I'd fear that 220 grit on a belt sander would eat the table alive.

My goto has always been very fine steel wool and WD40. Old fashioned Johnson paste wax (the yellow can) after that and going forward for maintenance.

edit: I see Nutria beat me to it with, essentially, the same school of thought. He must be one smart dude...

 

[tool_scrounge]

+1. I also ease the corners of the blade a bit to prevent scratching, and I use WD40 for a lube with the blade. Then usually some 0000 steel wool with WD40, then mineral spirits for cleanup, then denatured alcohol, and finish with paste wax.

I do almost the same, but I use 10 weight turbine oil instead of WD40. Works well.

 

[PoorUB]

You need to really try to screw up with a powered sander on cast iron with 220 or 320 grit. It takes a lot of time to remove a .001"!

I usually just take a sharp stiff putty knife and scrape off the chunks and loose stuff, then mineral spirits and scotch bright or some wet or dry sand paper. If there is any pits, wire wheel them out and fill with JB Weld then lay a file flat on the table and file the JB level.

 

[Wyoming09]

How do you plan to clean up the tables? I like to scrape as much as possible, then use a scotchbrite pad or fine wet/dry paper to finish up before a coat of paste wax. One pretty good way to scrape rust is to clamp a utility knife blade in vise-grips; it's very controllable and fairly fast.

My table saw gets to looking just like that. I just hose it down with WD40 and some fine steel wool. Cleans up real nice. I started then coating it with Fluid Film. That keeps it nice. Still gotta clean the Fluid Film off before I can use it but that's OK.

 

[35k0]

Lots of good tips, thank you everyone!