I Want a Drill Press...Help

[Gore]

I am getting a bit of drill press envy from you guys and I have decided I need one.

How big do I want? I don't know

What will I use it for? Stuff

New or old? Either

So that's where I'm at...I am at step 0. I want a drill press and have no immediate need for one...but I foresee using it for light metal work, typically with smaller bits...but I don't want to go undersized if the need arises.

I love the idea of buying and restoring one, but I don't know which model number or brand to look for...other than an "old" Craftsman.

I also seem to remember reading that the Porter Cable from Lowes for around $300 was a fairly decent dp as far as new ones go.

So GJ'ers...please answer my shot in the dark, out of left field question...and recommend me a specific drill press to start scouring Craigslist for, please

 

[ChargerRT]

Man while I can't help you.... you are asking all the questions I have as I'm looking for one too! Luckily we wont be fighting over the same craigslist ads

 

[tarbellb]

When looking at DPs, they are measured in the throat depth typically. So a 16" or 17" will allow you to get your center line as deep as that before hitting the column.

Other things to consider are the hp, spindle depth (drilling depth), table type, full height or benchtop model, and speeds. Speeds are important if doing lots of heavy metal work or specialty materials. You want slower speeds ie 800 rpms < for most metal work.

All that being said, they take up a bit of room so benchtop models are nice. Rarely will you ever need the full table height adj of a stand alone.

If going new I would consider Grizzly a great start, all brands except a few are made overseas now. Grizzly dosent hide this, in fact they brag about their mfg quality in Taiwan. This puts Jet, Powermatic, Delta, etc... at the same quality basically. (my choice-http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Speed-Heavy-Duty-Bench-Top-Drill-Press/G7943)

That or just go with the cheapest thing you can find?

Or the classic GJ reply "go buy a 20" USA 1950's industrial unit duh" or the likes. If you have a good selection of old USA made DPs near by they are definitely a great machine. Bearings and run out on the spindle are you biggest worries.

Names of older DPs to consider- pre 70s - Jet, Delta, Powermatic, Clausing, DoAll?,... any others boys?

 

[Lassen Forge]

I found my Sprunger (which is awesome, BTW) on one of those "community bulletin boards" at the local store. Guy bought it to drill holes in beams for his home addition some 40+ years before so it was barely used (tho sawdusty and dust-dusty as hell!!). Serious - keep your eyes open, not just on CL but when you go to the store, you'll be amazed what you can find.

 

[Davefr]

You really need to do a search because there's a ton of info on DP's.

There one camp that will tell you to get a vintage machine. Here's are the problems:

- Most common old DP's are well built, but geared more for woodworking then metalworking with a limited speed range (typically only 4 medium speeds.) For metal you really need a few hundered to a few 1000 as the RPM range
- Most (not all) lack table tilt, table rotate, table tram and table elevation. Those are "must have" features IMHO.
- Replacement parts can range from hard to find to unobtainium. (cost will often be more then the DP)
- You need to evaluate them very carefully. A bent spindle that causes excessive runout can be a showstopper.

Now there are some really nice vintage models like the Delta/Rockwell 17" that was intended for machine shop use. However it's hard to find and expensive if you find a good one. The search can take many months/years.

On the other extreme you have the new generic Chinese machines that everyone sells. They are usually low quality, marginal runout, use cheap chucks and very light castings like tables.

My own preference are the name brand Taiwan machines from the 70's and 80's. (Jet and Delta 17's for example). They are good quality (better then Chinese) and have most of the modern "must have" features and a wide speed range. They're pretty easy to find and affordable. Parts are available.

 

[Will S.]

Unless you just want one for "rough" work; e.g. no precision drilling, you will need to be concerned with run-out, table squaring, and more. So an older drill press is probably your best bet, as all the low-cost, chinese made DP's won't measure up. Since you don't have a specific need, maybe a cheapie will do.

In any case, here's a 5 min video on what to look for:

 

[66354dream]

I bought this one at the beginning of the year and its been perfect for everything I've needed it to do.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78742-46069-PCB660DP_0__?productId=3162489

 

[Gore]

Man while I can't help you.... you are asking all the questions I have as I'm looking for one too! Luckily we wont be fighting over the same craigslist ads

I figured I couldn't be the only one...so I thought I'd bite the bullet and ask lol

 

[Gore]

I bought this one at the beginning of the year and its been perfect for everything I've needed it to do.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78742-46069-PCB660DP_0__?productId=3162489

That is the exact one I was referring to...as was recommended on here previously.

I could see buying that one to actually use, and an old Craftsman to restore and perhaps sell.

 

[Gore]

You really need to do a search because there's a ton of info on DP's.

There one camp that will tell you to get a vintage machine. Here's are the problems:

- Most common old DP's are well built, but geared more for woodworking then metalworking with a limited speed range (typically only 4 medium speeds.) For metal you really need a few hundered to a few 1000 as the RPM range
- Most (not all) lack table tilt, table rotate, table tram and table elevation. Those are "must have" features IMHO.
- Replacement parts can range from hard to find to unobtainium. (cost will often be more then the DP)
- You need to evaluate them very carefully. A bent spindle that causes excessive runout can be a showstopper.

Now there are some really nice vintage models like the Delta/Rockwell 17" that was intended for machine shop use. However it's hard to find and expensive if you find a good one. The search can take many months/years.

On the other extreme you have the new generic Chinese machines that everyone sells. They are usually low quality, marginal runout, use cheap chucks and very light castings like tables.

My own preference are the name brand Taiwan machines from the 70's and 80's. (Jet and Delta 17's for example). They are good quality (better then Chinese) and have most of the modern "must have" features and a wide speed range. They're pretty easy to find and affordable. Parts are available.

Thanks...I actually have searched but the sheer volume of info on here can make your head spin.

Thank you for all of the useful info...it's appreciated

 

[Gore]

When looking at DPs, they are measured in the throat depth typically. So a 16" or 17" will allow you to get your center line as deep as that before hitting the column.

Other things to consider are the hp, spindle depth (drilling depth), table type, full height or benchtop model, and speeds. Speeds are important if doing lots of heavy metal work or specialty materials. You want slower speeds ie 800 rpms < for most metal work.

All that being said, they take up a bit of room so benchtop models are nice. Rarely will you ever need the full table height adj of a stand alone.

If going new I would consider Grizzly a great start, all brands except a few are made overseas now. Grizzly dosent hide this, in fact they brag about their mfg quality in Taiwan. This puts Jet, Powermatic, Delta, etc... at the same quality basically. (my choice-http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Speed-Heavy-Duty-Bench-Top-Drill-Press/G7943)

That or just go with the cheapest thing you can find?

Or the classic GJ reply "go buy a 20" USA 1950's industrial unit duh" or the likes. If you have a good selection of old USA made DPs near by they are definitely a great machine. Bearings and run out on the spindle are you biggest worries.

Names of older DPs to consider- pre 70s - Jet, Delta, Powermatic, Clausing, DoAll?,... any others boys?

Great info thanks!


Also thanks to everyone else for the advice...feel free to keep it coming!

 

[CGT80]

I would take a mill over a drill press any day. My dad and brother bought a used Rong Fu mill that is a bench top style but has a cast iron table as well. I should have learned to use it sooner, but now that I know my way around it, a drill press is a waste of space.

Most of the work I do is on metal and the mill is very sturdy compared to drill presses I have used in the past and even if you don't know what you are doing, you can manage to benefit from being able to do simple machining functions that a drill press isn't suited for. The mill already has a table that can be positioned where needed and a way to hold parts down, and a milling vice is a must have.

Think of a mill as a drill press on steroids. If you think you might get into making your own stuff, look at some used mills and what they can do and if it makes sense for you to consider it at this point.

I have a cheap little drill press from harbor freight that used to belong to my grandmother. It isn't really even worth the space on my bench and I never use it. If you go for a drill press, make sure it is sturdy and don't underestimate the usefulness of a mill table for it. It is nice to clamp the part and then crank the handles until you have the part right where you want it. The other thing I like on the mill is the mist coolant. You can setup the same thing for a drill press. The coolant is mixed with water and is easy to wipe off with a rag or blow off with a blowgun. The drill bits work much better when you keep them cool and it is much cleaner than using oil since most of it will evaporate.

 

[dave89iroc]

I mill can be used as a drill press, a drill press makes a horrible mill though

 

[Ilikeike]

My grandpa had a bench top taiwan one in his basement for 30yrs or so, it's like new since gramps has been gone for 20yrs,I recently took it home and have found random uses for it,so I built a stand last week and keep a unibit in it,real handy since it's always ready to go.

[URL=http://s884.photobucket.com/user/dsmallen/media/IMG_4903_zpsxqsho86r.jpg.html] [/URL]

 

[BD1]

If you want to drill steel, the three pulley setup gives more options. That's one set in front, middle , and rear. Lower speeds then the two pulley setup.

 

[ez-duzit]

Look for one withOUT a crank-up table--the standard table is much faster and more convenient, until you get into the extremely large, heavy size DP's, where the table is just so heavy.

The reason to look for an older, US made model (Delta, Rockwell, etc, but not all) is that they were generally better built than the newer **** that is made to compete with Chinese imports.

 

[LumpyMusic]

When looking at DPs, they are measured in the throat depth typically. So a 16" or 17" will allow you to get your center line as deep as that before hitting the column.

I believe that to be incorrect, if I'm understanding your post correctly.

The swing measurement of a drill press is the DIAMETER (not radius) of the piece that it will drill to the center of. ie a 10" drill press has a 5" throat. It will drill to the center of a 10" wide workpiece.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[ez-duzit]

LM is correct.

 

[Davefr]

Look for one withOUT a crank-up table--the standard table is much faster and more convenient, until you get into the extremely large, heavy size DP's, where the table is just so heavy.

The reason to look for an older, US made model (Delta, Rockwell, etc, but not all) is that they were generally better built than the newer **** that is made to compete with Chinese imports.

^^^Not true. You can make many quick incremental tweaks with the rack and pinion table system. If you try that without a lift mechanism your efficiency will plummet. (like a lathe without power feed)

I've had both.

 

[2oolhound]

Also the other reason for going with old is that they look 20 times cooler in your garage. The offshore stuff all looks like it was machined from a square lump of steel whereas the old ones have lots of design character.

 

[ez-duzit]

^^^Not true. You can make many quick incremental tweaks with the rack and pinion table system...

You are greatly mistaken. It isn't tiny little tweaks that slow you down--it happens every time you need to make large changes to allow for greatly varying heights of stock.

 

[Davefr]

You are greatly mistaken. It isn't tiny little tweaks that slow you down--it happens every time you need to make large changes to allow for greatly varying heights of stock.

I'm not mistaken. I obviously use my DP for different types of projects then you do. Everyone has a different usage model. Mine is the ability to make many small incremental tweaks in table height.

 

[454ragtop]

Me personally, I wouldn't consider a drill press without a table raiser. Sure it's quick and easy to adjust those lightweight tables, till you put a vise and a chunk of steel or cast iron on it. Suddenly that light table isn't so light anymore. As was mentioned, the Delta Rockwell 17" is one of the best all around drill presses going, for most it would be a lifetime investment that would be handed down. Taiwan imports can be decent, but lack the cool factor of vintage USA iron, if you're into that. Probably the best would be to look and see what's available in your area, and ask about a specific one you find to get the pros and cons of that unit.
Good luck, Jim

 

[ez-duzit]

...Sure it's quick and easy to adjust those lightweight tables, till you put a vise and a chunk of steel or cast iron on it...

Come on! Who would even think to put a vise and a chunk of steel or iron on the table before adjusting it?

 

[Davefr]

Come on! Who would even think to put a vise and a chunk of steel or iron on the table before adjusting it?

Anyone looking to maximize precision (ie minimize bit/quill deflection). How do you position the drill bit to the very top of the work surface unless it's already fixtured on the table?

Extending the quill to reach the top of the work surface is poor practice if accuracy/precision matters. I'll agree it doesn't always matter.

 

[ez-duzit]

Dave--you already have a crank-up table and have rationalized it in your own way. In my shop are 3 DP's; 2 have cranks; the other is my go-to machine, and has been for decades. I'm not trying to convince you to swap yours. But rather I offer this to help others from making a mistake. Crank-up tables are agonizingly slow in making large changes. Small changes in material thickness do not require changing table height at all, unless drill bit length demands it.

Also it is good to keep handy several DP table sized pieces of plywood to slip under a workpiece. For example, with the table adjusted low enough to clear a vise, rather than adjust the table to drill a part which requires not using the vise, I will often slip one or more of those plywood "shims" under the work.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Having no idea what your budget is, I'll assume you want something strong, well built, and not cheap.

I've been looking at Clausings and Powermatic 1200s from the 70s-80s, they all go for $1500-2500. The machinist I used has talked me into just buying a bridgeport.

Probably not what you are looking for in terms of an answer, but there wasn't much to go on.

 

[Davefr]

Small changes in material thickness do not require changing table height at all, unless drill bit length demands it.

For me they do. It's not a matter of drill bit length but deflection/precision.

To maximize precision I want the tip of the bit to be at the very top of the work surface and only enough bit to clear the hole. This becomes critical for small bits and deep holes. To line up the bit to the very top of the work surface without table lift would be a big PIA.

That's why I said everyone has a different usage model. The OP can decide what's best for him and what level of accuracy is important.

 

[zkling]

https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5219662227.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5246674702.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5185181147.html

 

[MikeF2316]

I have one of the cheapie Chinese made ones. It was a gift, I never really thought that I wanted one, but now I wouldn't want to be without one.

It has a third pulley so I can slow it down for metal work.

It has a crank up table which I like. I've used drill presses without this feature, I consider it mandatory.

It has a noticeable amount of runout, a feature I don't like. Plus under higher loads sometimes the Morse taper on the chuck comes free. I just have to bang it back into place, but it's still disconcerting.

I'm sort of half looking for something better, so I'll be watching this thread...

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

If you want precision (read that +/- .005) with reamers, etc, then a vertical mill is what you need. If you're about hammering holes in steel that has been laid out with a scriber and a center punch, a drill press of any sort in the 1/4 to 1/2 hp range will do the job. This is where the typical 10-18" drill presses fall.

The bigger the drilled hole, the more HP you need. With different materials you will need more speed choices and of course different power. Wood holes 1/2" and less just about anything will do. Same hole in mild steel, the more substantial/rigidity and hp the drill press has, the better. Larger holes in either require a more rigid setup (vise, clamp) and drill press hp, typically.

Me, I have an oldie but goodie 14" South Bend Lathe drill press with the multi speed attachment.. gets me 380-8010 rpm... adequate for most jobs.. They're hard to find, but repairs are usually with standard off the shelf parts for most of the wear items (bearings, etc.). There are also a bunch of attachments as well from SBL including mortising attachment, vises, spindles to accomdate #2 Morse taper, Jacobs chuck, etc.. The table is free floating, but has optional attachments for fine adjustment (hand crank) and a slick elevator feed mechanism. The latter is rare as hen's teeth..

Good luck...

 

[Shadowdog500]

That is the exact one I was referring to...as was recommended on here previously.

I could see buying that one to actually use, and an old Craftsman to restore and perhaps sell.

I bought that same exact drill press about a year ago. I've had 4 drill presses over the years and this is by far the best drill press I ever owned. Even the parts inside the drill press are machined to perfection.

It is very well made and runs smooth with extremely little runout. I drilled the first hole with the smallest drill bit I had(#58 bit) to show how smooth and quiet it was and to show how small the runout was. Here is the video

Chris

 

[oldldh]

This is getting entirely too serious....

We must inject some awe and amazement into this...

I give you old stuff...

Which is incrementally better than new stuff...

If you want to poke koles in anything, these will do the job...

And will be a lot more fun than a new "furrin" drill press...

 

[ez-duzit]

What a great find!

 

[Coach James]

I bought this one at the beginning of the year and its been perfect for everything I've needed it to do.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78742-46069-PCB660DP_0__?productId=3162489

Fine Woodworking rated that one as their "Best Value" in their 2016 Tool Guide.

Coach

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

This is getting entirely too serious....

We must inject some awe and amazement into this...

I give you old stuff...

Which is incrementally better than new stuff...

If you want to poke koles in anything, these will do the job...

And will be a lot more fun than a new "furrin" drill press...

Those are beautiful machines..

How about this one (photo courtesy of www.centurymachinery.com) Go big or go home?

 

[turfgnome]

shop around old machines have a story. I bought a drill press that was used to build the doors of the world trade center at an auction for around $175, I have a kick *** drill press that looks awesome in my garage. I even paid less then I would have buying a drill press at harbor freight. The only down side of buying old iron is it gets addictive.

 

[Davefr]

Those are beautiful machines..

How about this one (photo courtesy of www.centurymachinery.com) Go big or go home?

Here's one at the opposite extreme:

 

[spongerich]

I have one of the old Delta 17" monsters and it's awesome. There were 2 for options pulleys on those. High speed for wood and low speed for metal. Mine has the slower speed pulleys.

One of these days, I'm going to put a DC treadmill motor on it to be able to get a wider range of speeds and be able to adjust at the turn of a dial without messing with the belts. I recently made that mod to my milling machine and it's fantastic. I have a huge 2-1/2 HP Baldor DC motor, but controllers for motors that large are expensive.

 

[exmaxima1]

Me personally, I wouldn't consider a drill press without a table raiser. Sure it's quick and easy to adjust those lightweight tables, till you put a vise and a chunk of steel or cast iron on it.

If the price is right and the rest of the drill press has great features, the lack of a table raiser should not be a deal breaker. It just takes some imagination and some scrap parts, like the motorized lift on my Wilton (USA) VS press.