I want a floor coating. have questions

[mdacton]

I want a coating on the floor with an anti splip in it but I dont like the spekledchips. Is the a solid color paint or epoxy type coating I can get?

Also this is more of a shop so I need something to realy stand up to heavy abuse like would be used in an industrial setting. And I would like a slate grey color. I'm open to suggestions

 

[dcs Inc]

Our industrial grade epoxies come in several colors. You can add a slip resistant to the epoxy, broadcast into wet or add a scratch resistant urethane with aluminum oxide as a top coat.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Apply a solid color epoxy. Most of us have over a dozen color choices.
Topcoat the epoxy with a urethane and include either ottowa-sand or Soft Skid into the urethane and you will have a tough, non-skid floor.

 

[thegarageguy]

Work shop floors aren't epoxy paint jobs. They are 1/8 inch thick at a minimum but usually 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick epoxy poly systems, that are created by using multiple layers of epoxy, select aggregates and polyurethanes or polyaspartics.

No matter what "industrial" epoxy you use, if it's painted on it will not hold up to a work shops abuse....of course, proper concrete prep is a must with any system.

 

[mdacton]

Work shop floors aren't epoxy paint jobs. They are 1/8 inch thick at a minimum but usually 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick epoxy poly systems, that are created by using multiple layers of epoxy, select aggregates and polyurethanes or polyaspartics.

No matter what "industrial" epoxy you use, if it's painted on it will not hold up to a work shops abuse....of course, proper concrete prep is a must with any system.

this is what im looking for, I have worked at several car dealerships and we had this type floor. I dont know how its applied but I want something with that type durability for daily use.

do these diy systems offer that?

 

[thegarageguy]

this is what im looking for, I have worked at several car dealerships and we had this type floor. I dont know how its applied but I want something with that type durability for daily use.

do these diy systems offer that?

I'm sure they do but it takes an experience crew to install it.

 

[rburke65]

Thegarageguy....."Work shop floors aren't epoxy paint jobs". What does this sentence mean? And if this is a diy, why do you need 'an experienced crew'? Your info is very confusing.

 

[thegarageguy]

Rburk65, sorry if I went too fast for you... Let me break it down....anybody can mix a 2 part epoxy and paint a floor but it takes a seasoned crew to apply a work shop flooring system. Each crew member has a dedicated task, mixer, squeegee, roller, trowelers, broadcasters...etc., etc.. the correct tools need to be used, such as gauge rake or notched squeegee to ensure correct amount of material is being used. Correct, type of rollers, 3/8 nap, spiny, loop roller, etc.. Correct type of aggregate for the specified floor and good broadcaster so you don't have a wavy floor. You see, I never said this was DIY, I said a correctly applied flooring system requires a professional crew or contractor. There's a big difference between an epoxy paint job and an epoxy flooring system.

 

[racerbob4]

In about 6 weeks we are going to install a product from Rocksolid Floors. It's supposed to be the top of the line of do it yourself floor finishing. We will be putting it into 2 two car garages. Look at www.rocksolidfloors.com or call Mike Mc Alister at 866.765.4474

 

[Edger]

MDACTON,
The trowell applied epoxy coatings that are thick still chip with abuse. There is nothing wrong with a roll down epoxy if you have a strong concrete floor underneath. If the floor is not strong then you will need the thick application.

 

[thegarageguy]

Hell Edger, tile, marble, granite, concrete and even stone can chip, even metal will gouge. When you paint a slab with epoxy, it is now just being used as a sealer. This is not the correct spec for a work shop.

With all due respect Edger, if the concrete is not strong enough, then you don't need a coating but a new slab.

 

[mdacton]

so what should I budget for this and still not sure what direction to go.
I have 24x48 but only want to do 24x24 area.

I own a pressurewashing company and I have done the roller rock type coating concrete stains/sealers all that stuff and they look great but in this area I do chassis set-ups and fabrication for race cars. I just want something im not going to have to recoat every year and look nice. not fancy but just a grey durable coating

 

[thegarageguy]

The best coating to apply would be polyaspartic. I find it is more durable than epoxy and should last much longer than most other coatings. However as said previously, if the concrete is weak or soft, you can first try grinding and densifying the slab before discounting the concrete completely.

Concrete Art-FX
Blog: Concrete Polishing

Hey that's great Concrete Art FX, but do you mind removing my work from your "Metallic Epoxy Flooring Gallery".

Specifically;
http://www.concreteartfx.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=147934702

http://www.concreteartfx.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=147934703

http://www.concreteartfx.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=151411972

I'm sure I never gave you permission to use any of my work on your site. Please remove ASAP!

 

[thegarageguy]

Dammit, just realized I'm giving this hack more hits on his site than he deserves.

 

[dcs Inc]

Work shop floors aren't epoxy paint jobs. They are 1/8 inch thick at a minimum but usually 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick epoxy poly systems, that are created by using multiple layers of epoxy, select aggregates and polyurethanes or polyaspartics.

No matter what "industrial" epoxy you use, if it's painted on it will not hold up to a work shops abuse....of course, proper concrete prep is a must with any system.

Hey garage guy. please have your phone number available to answer calls if you are suggesting these guys to apply that system. Of course you already know that. A quartz system with a poly top coat is of course the way to go in a heavy use area but these guys aren't going to spend that kind of money.

The least expensive diy application I can suggest is a thin mil epoxy with a urethane/aluminum oxide top coat. That shouldn't get them into too much trouble and give them a good wearable surface.

EDIT: Saw that you had addressed the diy issue. gene

 

[thegarageguy]

My point was that the floor he is looking for is not DIY and that it's more laborous than one might think. My recommendation would be to hire a pro if that is the floor he is looking for. And even though there are many DIY'ers on this site, it doesn't mean they should be uninformed or misguideded and not have their expectations met.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Fernando, you need to watermark your photos. This will keep web-nappers from stealing your work. We are looking into this right now for the same reason.

 

[thegarageguy]

None of this guys pics are his work.....fricken so many hacks out there....I guess it's time to watermark...I'm giving this guy till Monday to remove my work from his site. A phone call will follow.