ice and water shield

[PCustoms]

Had you done two in each bay, it could be even without using more vents.

Just saying

I know I sketched out various options, pretty sure that one didn't give me enough vent area, I needed a few extra. Once I added them in the 3, skip, 3 made the most sense.

Found this. Basically 1/4 ply with nicely machined bead. Not designed well for butting edges. Might want to batten seams.

I looked into that, pretty sure it was all warped and wavy at home depot and the lumber yard so I went a different direction

The ply is around $1/sq ft. I found vinyl and other products that would be acceptable but all I the $8/sq ft range.

PVC edge and center. 16' lengths were about $60 IIRC, I can go get my invoice if interested

 

[mike93lx]

I know I sketched out various options, pretty sure that one didn't give me enough vent area, I needed a few extra. Once I added them in the 3, skip, 3 made the most sense

How does 6 per three bays in 3 skip 3,get more area than 6 per three bays, in 2 per bay? Odd number of bays?

 

[mike93lx]

@billconner feels like t&g is what's calling you. If you do ply, I bet you'll look at it wishing you did the t&g

 

[PCustoms]

How does 6 per three bays in 3 skip 3,get more area than 6 per three bays, in 2 per bay? Odd number of bays?

Idk, did it last year. Was probably some other constraint that I can't remember right now. Or I screwed up

2 per 4' wasnt enough to for the total vent area. 3 was really too much but it kept a pattern. If I add 13 more then every other V-groove would have one.

They **** anyways, always falling out and some warped pretty bad this summer.

 

[billconner]

@billconner feels like t&g is what's calling you. If you do ply, I bet you'll look at it wishing you did the t&g

I'm going to look around local mills, maybe find a simple r&g with just a v edge, or even a nickle gap. I hate seams and think almost any 4x8 will show seams.

 

[mike93lx]

I'm going to look around local mills, maybe find a simple r&g with just a v edge, or even a nickle gap. I hate seams and think almost any 4x8 will show seams.

Yeah, I bet hiding seams to a level that would make your happy would be near impossible. And not worth it

 

[billconner]

But should t&g corners be mitered or interlocked (saw toothed,)?

 

[mike93lx]

But should t&g corners be mitered or interlocked (saw toothed,)?

If you aren't cutting the joint on the ends, what arr you really doing with your life?

I dunno what the most right answer is

 

[PCustoms]

But should t&g corners be mitered or interlocked (saw toothed,)?

Wrap around porch?

 

[csp]

I had exposed ice & water shield for 5-6 months on the last home I lived in. It was a modular (two halves with a marriage line at the peak of the roof) that was craned into place in December and the roofer couldn't get to it until June, once we had the built in place attached garage framed and sheathed.

 

[billconner]

Wrap around porch?

yes

 

[billconner]

Azek trim - spacing for expansion and contraction? From what I find install tight in warm weather and assume it will shrink a little when cold or very cold? Beveled **** joints?

And is there a thinner version? I'd like thinner for bottom of header between posts so I can use 1x6 to or sides, not 1x8 ripped. It's quite a few hundreds of dollars more for the 1x8. And pieces between posts are less than 8' so ripping it from a 4x8 would work. Thought it would stay flat if I rabbeted the sides.

 

[PCustoms]

Azek trim - spacing for expansion and contraction? From what I find install tight in warm weather and assume it will shrink a little when cold or very cold? Beveled **** joints?

And is there a thinner version? I'd like thinner for bottom of header between posts so I can use 1x6 to or sides, not 1x8 ripped. It's quite a few hundreds of dollars more for the 1x8. And pieces between posts are less than 8' so ripping it from a 4x8 would work. Thought it would stay flat if I rabbeted the sides.

I'll give a generalized reply.

Follow the mfg instructions. I have 18' runs of 1x8 installed last August, it certainly moves (shrinks in my case). One thing I meant to do, and forgot, was to slip a piece of white flashing behind it. I'll either do that this fall or add more caulk. I didn't bevel the joint, just ****.

There should be 1/2 sheets there's lots of variations available on Azek and Kleer, but it really comes down to what your local source can get.

As an example, I'm trying to get some 5/4 trim with integrated J-channel and nail flange. Everyone shows it, no one stocks it. $165 per 18' special order...

 

[billconner]

Refining details and preparing materials list. Have a new option - vinyl soffit. Certainteed triple 2". The beads are2" on center. The downside - 12" on center support.

So vinyl or pine t&g. And looking at aluminum fascia versus azek.

 

[mike93lx]

So vinyl or pine t&g

 

[billconner]

Ordered edge and center bead pine and Azak. I guess that decision is past. Still haven't figured out bottom on header.

Also now have to have a plan for finishing pine. Tempted to install and finish just bottom with spar applied with roller and brush. Not sure if there's really value in prefinishing and in coating both sides. And do I really want to mess around coating tongues and grooves.

That and **** joining the t&g. Do I need to bevel ends so any shrinkage doesn't show.

All September decisions - still have old roof to tear off, new roof to frame and sheath, and then roof.

 

[billconner]

So roof is stripped and ice and water shield applied. Now adding new fascia, 1x8 Azek. I left i&w shield hanging over, thinking I could see slip drip edge under after I attached facing. The I&w shield stuck too well to do that (except one edge where I didn't pull off plastic separator).

So with i&w shield over top of new fascia, should I just put drip edge over? I am dying a self adhesive starter strip which would seem to seal some. Or should I put zip tape or strips of i&w or some other tape atop drip edge? Titan patch or deck joist tape?