ICF foundation

[bannerd]

Is it possible to remove the foam on one side of the wall? We're gathering materials for our cabin on the hill and my wife mention that the foam would be ugly inside. I assume you can just remove it without hurting anything?

Below is the link to the system we're going to use;

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartBlo...-Concrete-Forms-Bundle-of-20-12VWF8/203012855

 

[bannerd]

Answered this myself, you cannot remove it, yet you can attach to it.

 

[gnpenning]

You could remove it but the ties would be visible, Plus it would be a pain. Easy to attach to. Your link just took me to HD home page. Most block manufactures have webbing every 6" to attach to. Just remember that the top and bottom of the block they hold the webbing back so you won't be able to attach at the seams for about 1" either way.

To run your power in the walls they make hot knives. Or you can just get a battery powered or electric chainsaw (or gas) and cut a kerf (don't go to deep). The kerf will be the right width for romex if you keep a straight line. Did I mention at the seams there is no webbing to cut??

You will love the ICF walls.

 

[DougWil]

Typically the inside is finished with lath and plaster, not just bare exposed foam.

http://www.icfmag.com/articles/features/icf_interior_finishes.html

Leaving the foam exposed would be a fire/toxic smoke hazard.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Typically the inside is finished with lath and plaster, not just bare exposed foam.

Wall board/plaster board.

 

[bannerd]

Thanks all, one more question. With the logs coming soon, how would I attach that to the basement? Could I just use J hooks? The inside wall attachment seems odd. If anyone has information on that let me know.

 

[csp]

Where are the logs going, on top of the foundation? If so, stacking the logs would be no different than on any other concrete foundation.

Not sure what's odd about the inside wall attachment idea. It's no different than attaching drywall or whatever wall material you would use to a stud framed wall.

 

[Red05GT]

We used Drivit or synthetic stucco on the inside of our basement walls. The system we used had plastic studs every 12-16" to attach drywall, plywood or whatever finish you desire to.

 

[matt_i]

I removed 2 courses of ICF from my concrete wall. It took some elbow grease, gentle use of a framing claw hammer, and a "fast cut" saw you can buy at any box store. The cut cross-ties are visible but they repeat regularly and don't look out of place to me. Also helpful was oiling the inside of the top two courses with Mazola corn oil prior to the pour. Removing the entire inside of tall walls would be a lot of work,plus giving up the valuable insulation properties.

 

[wssix99]

Thanks all, one more question. With the logs coming soon, how would I attach that to the basement? Could I just use J hooks? The inside wall attachment seems odd. If anyone has information on that let me know.

Typically, yes, you'd sink J bolts in to the top of the wall before your pour. If you are building a log home, I'd think there would be purpose-built hardware to sink in to the concrete for that. (Longer rods, etc.)

I assume the concern is the look of the foam under the interior of a first floor log wall? If so, I would also go with a synthetic EIFS product, as Red05GT suggested, if you want a masonry look. If not, you can just use wallboard.

Another thing about removing the foam is the surface of the inside is not usually smooth. Most often, it is grooved to hold on to the foam better. I had to remove some foam for my garage door attachments (my house is 100% ICF) and I had a similar experience as matt_i. Once I had all the foam cut off, I had to chisel the grooves off the wall and then use a diamond blade to grind the surface flat. (That was a special kind of dirty hell that I never want to experience again.)

 

[bannerd]

Typically, yes, you'd sink J bolts in to the top of the wall before your pour. If you are building a log home, I'd think there would be purpose-built hardware to sink in to the concrete for that. (Longer rods, etc.)

Yeah, there needs to be a sill (pressure treated). The 2x10x14 boards will have to be 12" a part and then there are long screws that go through the logs and sink into the 2x10x14 framing. The rest of the cabin is matching the logs up and stacking.

 

[Voi]

We used Drivit or synthetic stucco on the inside of our basement walls. The system we used had plastic studs every 12-16" to attach drywall, plywood or whatever finish you desire to.

I was considering this for an upcoming project. How did you apply the Dryvit over the plastic splines? Did you roll fiberglass mesh over them first or what?

 

[gnpenning]

Is the block your using have exposed plastic?

 

[ejkuhl]

put some of this over the insulation:http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...4439357727-c-5833.htm?tid=1005026712225154753

or many other variations of "log" siding